The Chalk and Notch Joy Jacket. Wow! What a pattern! I’m not entirely sure what I can say about it that hasn’t already been said. I’ve been anxiously awaiting its release since last October when Gabriela shared a preview on her IG (here). Following her post, I immediately set out to source my ideal fabrics. After a couple months of searching and indecision, I found this rayon/poly blend twill from Style Maker Fabrics. I’ve always been partial to jewel tones and this fabric was practically calling my name. It has a soft, lovely drape and smooth hand. It was fairly easy to work with as compared to a rayon challis and working with it was similar to the difficulty level of working with a lawn or voile. As someone who primarily works with prints, my only issue was differentiating between the right and wrong sides during assembly.
As mentioned above, I regularly work with prints. While I wanted a solid colored outer shell, I wasn’t about to miss the opportunity to line my Joy with a print. I waffled back and forth between using a bold floral or a simple stripe and eventually decided on this black and white stripe rayon challis from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. Since I plan on regularly wearing this jacket unzipped, I wanted a lining that would be a complement to my somewhat bold wardrobe. I love this lining so much that I also used it to line the sleeves of my Clare Coat. I have nothing but good things to say about this fabric (and that amazing price). The only caveat is that I did have to take a few breaks when cutting the lining pieces because those tiny stripes were a bit hard on the eyes after too much concentration.
While sourcing fabric was really only made difficult by my indecisiveness, sourcing the hardware was a bit more difficult. I ordered my zipper from Zipperstop on Etsy (they also have their own website, I just had an Etsy gift card to use). I liked having the option to order a zipper in 1″ increments instead of being forced to buy the standard lengths available through most retailers. Find the specific listing I used here. I believe the color of this zipper is 530 which is not an exact match for this fabric, but certainly close enough.
When it came time to purchase grommets I just picked up these brass Dritz brand ones at my local JoAnn Fabrics. I can’t speak to the durability of these as I’ve only had this jacket for a couple of weeks at this point, but installation was quick and painless. I mean, really? Why did nobody tell me installing grommets was this simple? I would’ve started adding them to projects years ago.
Want to make sourcing hardware simpler? Gabriela will soon be offering a pre-order for hardware kits in several popular colors. I’ll be sure to update you when that’s available.
Now let’s talk about the making of this jacket:
Since I had completed a Clare Coat one week before tackling the Joy, I wasn’t too nervous about making another piece of lined outerwear. I also have full faith in Gabriela’s drafting and instructions and knew I was in good hands. Don’t let the prospect of a lined jacket intimidate you though, the steps are clear and well written.
Honestly, cutting took me longer than the actual jacket construction. There are quite a few pieces to the Joy Jacket which contributed to the longer cutting time. Due to a bit of (manageable) chronic pain in my right hand, I had to take frequent breaks from cutting and took my time over the course of three evenings.
Once I got going, the jacket came together rather quickly. I did have some trouble with the pockets due to tension issues coupled with late-night sewing mistakes. While cutting took me three evenings, sewing only took two. I’m a very hands-on/visual learner and, because of this, sometimes have difficulty understanding written instructions. Thankfully, the pattern includes helpful diagrams all along the way. If you feel you need more help, Gabriela is also planning a detailed sew along set to begin next month.
Now that I’ve pretty well said my piece, can I take a minute to mention a few of my lovely sewing friends? Several of us got together and pitched in to rent a photo studio for an hour for these photos. The photos in this post were taken by my friend Kim of Sweet Red Poppy and I really feel like she’s some sort of photo wizard.
We were also able to get some photos of our Joy Jackets together. The photo below is one of my favorites and will probably end up on my bulletin board in my sewing room. My sewing friends have been a true joy and lifeline over the past year and I feel pretty dang lucky to have them in my life. If you want to read more about their Joy Jackets, read Tiahna’s post here, Tami’s post here, and Rachel’s post here.
Have you heard enough about the Joy Jacket yet? No? If you haven’t already, Head over to Leslie’s post (here) to read more about this patterns origins. Grab a tissue, you might need it.
Love your teal version! I love turquoise, so I’m hoping to find the right shade. Teal would be nice too!
When traveling to Minneapolis to visit family, I always go to SR Harris Fabrics and they had a beautiful double faced sportswear fabric; gray one side, pink the other. Just been waiting for the perfect pattern to come along!
So pretty!! I’d definitely do a solid outer and patterned inner. Maybe tencel twill?
You did a great job on your jacket. That color is one of my favorites, too. You mentioned difficulty in sewing with lawn. I’m making a shirt now with lawn, and I’m wondering what kind of problems you have had with that fabric.
I actually love working with lawn. In terms of difficulty I’d say it’s just slightly harder than something quite stable like a quilting cotton or canvas. My only tip is to make sure to staystitch the neckline and armholes to prevent any stretching while sewing. Other than that it shouldn’t give you too much trouble. I love how crisp and smooth lawn presses!
Have you experienced any stitch puckering?
Beautiful jacket. I was checking out a Navy rayon twill at the fabric store today.
This is beautiful. I’d either use a navy viscose twill in my stash or the soft tencel twill in aubergine I’ve had my eye on.
This color is so pretty on you, Nicole! I love your jacket (and your whole handmade outfit!) I am smitten with the pink versions I’ve seen so I want to find a pink linen or rayon to make one.
So excited for this one. Ordered my fabric a month ago! So excoted to get started.
I haven’t seen anyone use a waterproof fabric for this jacket yet, but I would be tempted to try. I need more waterproof jackets around here.
Thank you so much, Nicole! I really love everything about your jacket, the color, striped lining and the contrast drawstring…SO good!
I want to make a pink one – maybe light pink, maybe a brighter pink (I saw Style Maker Fabrics had a couple options I loved). I love yours!
I’d really like to make a hooded red one, but finding red tencel twill has been difficult. And I’m really particular about shades of red. Currently eyeing a plum color too…
I think an olive twill is calling my name for this one!
Well, I’m a beginner garment sewer so fabric types are still a bit of a mystery, but I’m thinking a lovely deep celeryish green would be lovely.
I love your version! I’d want a similar color and some type of rayon twill as well
I’d love to use s tencel twill or linen in a gray or blue… or yellow or coral!!
I love the Jade twill at Style Maker! So pretty! Love the good too!
I love your fabric choice. I’m a newbie so I’m not sure what type of fabric I’d choose, but it would probably be black…and I’d like to line it with gingham.
I have seen a cute one in pink and dark blue, but I’m really liking the shade of green you used. Awesome job !
I have a light weight waxed canvas and would love to give it a go for this jacket.
This jacket it gorgeous! To be honest, I would probably copy yours exactly. It’s perfect and I love love love the colors.
Love your jacket!! I have a lightweight denim that would be perfect for one
Love it! Going to try one in a rayon twill I bought last week.
I love to try making this in tencel twill fabric. I keep reading great things about it and I have never tried it.
Your jacket is beautiful and it’s the make who made me discover Chalk and Notch patterns ! Also it decided to make me make one ! What size of zip did you use ? I have some 26” in my stash and i was wondering if it could be used to make a size 8 or 10 jacket (i mean even if a 28” is recommended).
Thank you for your help !
Cinthia
Your jacket is beautiful! I actually purchased that pinstripe for a lining on my jacket too. Is the fabric slippery enough for the sleeves?
Thank you! It’s not exceptionally slippery, but it seems to work just fine for the sleeves. I haven’t had and difficulty getting the jacket on or off with the striped sleeve lining. I also used this stripe to line the sleeves of my Clare Coat and I haven’t had any trouble with those either.