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Itch To Stitch Blog Tour: Mila Shirt

Happy Tuesday all! It’s been a while since I sewed something that wasn’t a cropped top or wide-leg pants. Today I’m mixing it up as part of the Itch to Stitch Blog Tour. This blog tour is one of the largest of which I’ve been a part. There are several talented bloggers and generous sponsors participating. Be sure to read all the way to the bottom for info on winning one of the amazing prizes. Kennis of Itch to Stitch has an impressive pattern library so narrowing down an idea took me a bit of time. Eventually I settled on the idea of sewing a Mila Shirt as I thought it would be a great transitional piece as the weather changes from blazing heat to cooler fall weather.  Bonus: Kennis has agreed to put the pattern on a special sale just for the tour.  Today only snag it for just $9.

One of our wonderful sponsors Tammy of  D+H Fabrics Co was kind enough to send me this beautiful rayon designed by See You at Six fabrics. She had this fabric imported from Belgium in order to carry it in her shop. In my opinion it was 100% worth it because this stuff is glorious. I cut this project out at a sewing night last week and nearly everyone there was “oohing” and “ahhing” over it. It’s that good.

The colors in this fabric will fit into my wardrobe year-round while the print is busy enough to hide any minor construction flaws and food stains. In fact, immediately before these photos were taken, my son tripped and fell on the cement. He was fine, but a little shaken up. Naturally, however, he wiped his tears and snot directly on my shirt. You’d never know it though, because this print hides it all. Moral of the story: if you have children, work with children, or are just a messy eater (also me) you need this print in your wardrobe.

Now that I’ve given you the low down on this fabric; let’s talk about this pattern and the modifications I made to the Mila in order to better fit my style. I have this quirk about long-sleeved woven tops like the Mila. I just don’t really like them unless they’re made in flannel. I find that fabrics like rayon challis don’t actually provide much warmth when layering and I’d rather just have short sleeves so they can be worn year-round. I also like that there won’t be added bulk when I choose to wear a cardigan over this shirt. In order to achieve this, I made an extremely simple modification. The sleeves are cut 2 inches above the sleeve lengthen/shorten line. I sewed a 1″ hem and then rolled it twice for the cuffed look. Simple, right? This change made the Mila shoot to the top of my favorite patterns pretty quickly. 

I did make one other straightforward modification to my Mila. Since the print on this fabric is rather busy, I knew the back pleat detail wouldn’t be noticeable and decided to do away with it. Instead, I gathered the back to fit the yoke and the result is simple and fuss-free. Just the way I like it. 

Let’s talk sizing: One reason I love sewing Itch to Stitch patterns is that the sizing always seems to be spot on. I also love that Kennis provides separate cup sizes. As someone who should probably be making a small bust adjustment on clothing (I never do), I appreciate that the work is basically done for me here. For this top I sewed a size 4 with the A cup. I graded to an 8 at the hips, but probably could’ve gotten away with just grading to a 6. Since I am  5’10” I also added 1″ to the length of this shirt.

On to the construction. About 70% of the sewing process went nice and smooth. The other 30% was a different story.  I had a sick child while sewing this so I was sleep deprived which likely contributed to my mistakes. My missteps while sewing all revolved around the placket. Itch to Stitch patterns always have great detailed instructions which are extremely helpful if you actually read them. My first mistake was simply glancing at the diagram and sewing without reading. I sewed the placket to the right side of the fabric instead of the wrong side and had cut the placket opening before realizing my faux pas. Thanks to fray check and a steady hand with the seam ripper, I was able to remedy my mistake without too much time or effort lost. 

One thing I must admit is that it almost felt weird sewing something tunic length after going through a cropped shirt phase. I almost didn’t know how to style this top, but decided to keep it simple and pair it with these Ginger Jeans. Once cooler weather hits I can see this top easily paired with leggings and a cozy cardigan or Wiksten Kimono. In spring and summer, it would be equally lovely tucked into a skirt. I’m thinking a black Lawley Skirt? Overall, I’m giddy about this make. I think it will make a great transition piece and I’m obsessed with this fabric. Now my question is how much of this fabric is too much? I just might need more of it. 

Thanks for reading all about my Mila. Are you ready for some more Itch to Stitch inspiration? Read below and follow the links to check out all of this week’s bloggers. 

September 17th 
September 18th 
September 19th 
September 20th 
September 21st 
 

Need some fabric inspiration? Be sure to check out all of our sponsors and follow the Rafflecopter instructions below if you’d like to enter to win a prize package.

Itch to Stitch: 2 PDF patterns of choice
Simply By Ti: Prize of $20 GC
So Sew English Fabrics: Prize of $30 GC
Mabel Madison Modern Makers: Prize of 3 yard coordinated bundle
Sly Fox Fabrics: $25GC
Raspberry Creek Fabrics: $50 GC
Surge Fabric Shop: $20 GC
Organic Cotton Plus: $25 GC
WarmCrochet: Pair of scissors

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Burnside Bibs and My Dream 1970’s Style Outfit

Hello All! Earlier this summer, I moved into a home built in the 1970’s and apparently decided to lean alllll the way in. Kidding, my home was built in the 1970’s but besides a hint of the original wallpaper inside a bathroom cabinet and the original kitchen cabinets, it’s not all that groovy. Honestly though, while I have no desire to have lived in the 1970’s, I have always been a fan of the style. Bold patterns, an array of color, and women wearing pants. What’s not to love? Except maybe an abundance of polyester, of course. 

Last Summer, I purchased the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs pattern and found this mystery blend striped knit in a local store for $3/yd. I just didn’t quite know that they were destined to form my dream outfit. The color combination in the knit reminded me of a shirt owned by my mom and made me so happy that I couldn’t leave the store without it. I knew that I wanted to sew up a tee with it, but loved it so much that I was afraid to cut into it. That is, until I came upon the FREE Carine Tee pattern by Elbe Textiles. This fabric and pattern are a match made in apparel sewing heaven

The fabric for my Burnside Bibs is this Lyocell denim purchased from Joann. I bought it on impulse last spring when denim fabrics were on sale for $7.99. To be frank, I had a little bit of trouble working with this fabric. It was likely user error, but this fabric did not want to behave. It was a little shifty and the end result is that one of my front pockets is slightly lower than the other. I didn’t notice my mistake until the last step of sewing and decided that fixing it wasn’t worth having to rip everything apart. This mistake is difficult to notice unless you’re looking for it and hasn’t kept me from loving or wearing them. 


The back of these bibs are a favorite detail. I love the gathered, but not too bunched look created by this version. I opted to make version #1 because I felt it would be the most flattering for my shape. I’m pear-shaped and didn’t want to add too much extra bulk around the waist or hip area. 

Since finishing my bibs almost a month ago, I’ve worn them a few times and added them to my list of secret pajamas. The lyocell fabric is soft and lightweight while the bibs are fitted enough to look stylish and loose enough for ultimate comfort. Wearing clothes that are secret pajamas feels somewhat like wearing cute, matching underwear. People know you’re wearing clothes, but nobody is privy to the fact that you could just as easily be wearing this outfit lounging in bed or cuddled on the couch. It’s a gooooood feeling. 

My only regret is that I didn’t make these when I first bought the pattern in the summer of 2017. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have to practice my lines as I audition to be an extra on the Brady Bunch. Ok, I’m really just scheming up a second more winter friendly pair of Burnside Bibs. 

I’ll leave you with a quick note on sizing. My waist and hip measurements put me right at a 10 with my bust measurement right around a 4. Since these are bibs, I decided not to bother with grading between sizes and just cut a straight size 10. I did end up adding 1/2″ to the length on the bib, 1/2″ to the rise, and 1.5″ to the  leg length. That’s it. Easy alterations and a great pattern. Have you tried the Burnside bibs yet? If not, what are you waiting for?

Want more overall sewing inspiration? Check out my Named Ronja Dungarees. Can’t get enough Sew House Seven Patterns? Check out my Tea House Dress or Toaster Sweater. Do you love 70’s style too? Look up my denim Lander Pants.

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Marcella Romano Blog Tour: Persephone Pants or Technicolor “Kamm Pants”

Hello! Today I’m thrilled to be part of the Marcella Romano blog tour and am sharing my technicolor dream pants. A couple of months ago I  was introduced to Marcella Romano fabrics (check out their beautiful selection here)  and had a chance to peruse their website. Upon seeing this striped fabric, I knew it was destined for something fantastic. I spent a few days pondering on several patterns before settling on the Anna Allen Persephone Pants ( I purchased my pattern through Indiesew). They have just enough detail to look thoughtful and well-designed while allowing the fabric to shine. This fabric wants and deserves to steal the show.

Can we talk about this fabric? The bold design and bright colors were what initially attracted me until it arrived. Once it arrived, I found out that it had even more to offer than beautiful color. The fabric content is 88% cotton, 7% polyester and 5% Lycra. I would classify it as a mid-weight fabric which makes it perfect for pants, jackets, and structured skirts or dresses. The Lycra content gives the fabric just a bit of stretch (I’d estimate around 15%). It’s just enough stretch give the pants comfort while maintaining a structured fit. The weight and fabric content make working with this fabric a breeze. As someone who started out quilting, I will always have a soft spot for the way cotton presses. It’s a freaking dream. Maybe I just feel this way because my last few projects used more difficult fabrics but; pressing this was a breath of fresh air. Now that I’ve sung the praises of this textile, let’s move on to how it became this striking pair of pants.

I mentioned earlier that I chose the Persephone Pants pattern because it would allow the fabric to claim the spotlight. A majority of the Persephone Pants I’ve seen have been made in solid colors. The solid colored versions are minimalist, modern and universally flattering (which I love even though I rarely dress this way). I love all the solid colored versions so much that I made a pair as a wearable muslin prior to sewing this pair. The same details that are well highlighted in a solid colored pair can also nicely blend into the background making this pattern the perfect choice for both options.

Let’s discuss the ace details that work equally well with solid and printed fabrics.

  • No side seams:  Perfect for bold printed fabrics because there are less seams to break it up.
  • Front waist pockets: The pocket placement makes them nearly invisible in this pair and removes the necessity for pattern matching printed fabrics. Honestly, I almost omitted them in this pair, but I’m glad I didn’t. I always regret not having pockets when I need a place for my phone or id.
  • No back pockets: Back pockets are great and usually I’d advocate for them. In this instance, however, I love the simplicity of the back pant with darts being the only detail.
  • Concealed Button Fly: I opted to not use this detail and insert a fly zip instead. As recommended by Allie of Indiesew (in this post) I used the True Bias Lander Pant zipper expansion pattern pieces and instructions as a guide.

I wanted to get the fit on these pants just right so I actually made a muslin before cutting into the good stuff. I  almost NEVER do this (maybe once a year), but since this fabric deserved greatness, I made the sacrifice. Both my waist and hip measurements fall right in between a 10 and 12 on the Persephone Pants sizing chart. Since this fabric has a bit of stretch I decided to start with a size 10 and fit from there.  First, I made two alterations that I make to nearly every pair of pants and those were to add 1/2″ to the crotch length and 2″ to the leg length.

The initial fitting actually wasn’t awful. They fit me about how any high waisted style in ready to wear would fit. The waist was spot on with a small amount of extra fabric in the thighs and below my rear.  My first alteration after fitting was to remove an extra 1/4″ from the inseam. I did this simply by taking a larger seam allowance. This fixed my issue of width in the thighs, but I still had a bit of extra fabric below the rear. To correct this I did basically the same alteration mentioned above and took an extra 1/4″ into the seam allowance in the back crotch seam. I did not take any width out of the front crotch seam.

After these alterations, I noticed some small wrinkles below the darts between the top of my buttocks and my waist. They were minimal and I probably could have left them, but I decided to give fixing them a try. This was possibly the easiest fix yet as I simply redrew  and stitched the darts to extend them down 1/2″.

Overall, I was surprised with how easy it was to fit these pants. Pants can be a real pain in the rear (pun intended) to fit since there are a myriad of shapes and curves to fit on the lower body. I feel like I’ve hit the jackpot as Anna Allen’s drafting block seems to be the closest to my specific shape that I’ve found. I’ll certainly be looking out for future pant patterns from her.

I’ve given you all the details, so let’s get to the fun stuff: feelings. One may ask: How do you really feel about these pants? The subject of bold pants can be polarizing as many seem to have strong feelings one way or another. What I’ve learned after making these pants is that rainbow striped pants aren’t for everyone, but gosh darn it, they ARE for me! They’re comfortable, wild, and, yes, even a bit out of my comfort zone, but I’ve never had a pair of pants that feel so uniquely “me.” A pair of pants like these can bring out either self consciousness or self confidence depending on style preferences. After wearing them, I felt only confidence. I’m taking that as I sign that these pants will fit right in with the rest of my vibrant wardrobe.

Ready for more Marcella Romano fabric inspiration? Be sure to follow the links below to check out all the other ladies on tour this week.

MARCELLA ROMANO BLOG TOUR
SEPTEMBER 3rd – SEPTEMBER 6th 2018

MONDAY
Vicky – SewVee | Fleurine – Sew Mariefleur

TUESDAY
Heidi – Handmade Frenzy | Nicole – Merritts Makes

WEDNESDAY
Leslie – Threadbear Garments | Star – Well Fibre

THURSDAY
Eveline – Frölein Tilia | Dominique – Kreamino

Special thanks to my friend Sara of The Sara Project for her help styling and taking these photos. Always thankful to have you on my side, friend!