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The Free Justine Skirt by Ready to Sew

Happy Fall! I know October is nearly over and leaves have been falling for over a month now, but fall has finally come to my yard. Did you catch my last post about my Named Gemma Sweatshirt? Those photos were taking just two weeks ago and the trees were still a lush green. Now reds, yellows, and oranges have taken over the backyard. After years of apartment living, it’s a bit surreal to look out the windows and suddenly realize that these big, beautiful trees are part of our yard and it’s time we buy a rake. During our house hunt, mature trees were one of the reasons I resisted the idea of a new build. The shade in the summer is ace and these beautiful fall colors are another bonus (although, let’s see how I really feel when I’m finished raking everything).

Ok, enough about trees, let’s get down to business and talk about why you’re really here. This skirt: the FREE Justine by Ready to Sew. Until making this skirt, I hadn’t worn a skirt in nearly a year. I fell out of love with the ones I owned and just wasn’t feeling inspired by skirts. Cue the release of Justine in June. I was immediately drawn to the large patch pockets, midi-length, and button front. Hello effortless skirt of my dreams. Add to that the fact that the pattern was free and trying it out became a no-brainer. I immediately bookmarked the pattern and not so patiently waited until I was no longer knee deep in painting and packing. When we finally moved into our home during the last week of July, I downloaded and printed the pattern before I had even unpacked my kitchen. 

Sewing up this skirt turned out to be a great way to revive my sew-jo after a busy summer. There are only four pattern pieces in the pattern which made it easy to knock out the pattern assembly and cutting in less than an hour. A few days later, I spent an afternoon sewing and finished all but the buttons. Then, I spent a lovely evening watching Netflix and hand-sewing each button. The instructions were straightforward and, combined with my fabric choice, made for a fuss-free sewing experience. 

Let’s talk about fabric choice for a quick minute. My textile of choice is this woven stripe in a cotton/linen blend. I purchased it from Suppose, my favorite hidden gem and a place I called a second home for five years. It’s got a great weight to it, heavier than a quilting cotton, but lighter than a true canvas. The weight makes it a skirt that can easily transition through the seasons. I wore it with sandals and a tee in the heat and can see it looking just as lovely paired with tights and booties.

I had originally flagged this fabric for a pair of Burnside Bibs (see what I actually used for my bibs here) that never came to fruition.  Once I’d printed this pattern and saw this stripe sitting in my stash it felt fated. Working with this stable fabric is incredibly easy and something I would certainly recommend to a beginner. The only drawback to the fabric (thanks to its natural fibers) is that it’s somewhat prone to wrinkles. I’m personally a fan of linen and have learned to embrace the wrinkles that come along with it. 

Can we pause for a moment and just admire these pockets? One of the reasons I love sewing is the aspect of customization that can be added to each piece. If a pattern doesn’t include pockets, I will often add them. With few exceptions, I truly believe that skirts and dresses should always include pockets. I don’t love carrying a bag everywhere and pockets allow me to forego one from time to time. One issue that I sometimes have with patterns are that the pockets are sometimes too small to be useful. Not so with Justine. The included pockets are large enough to fit my entire hand which means they easily fit my keys, wallet, and phone. The folded flap detail is a unique design choice that I’ve come to love. Occasionally I’ll attach a favorite enamel pin to the flap for added flair. 

We’ve talked assembly, fabric, and pockets so I’ll leave you with a note on sizing. My waist and hip measurement put me right at a size 42. I cut a straight 42 with 2 inches added to the length. The full 2 inches of length wasn’t necessary and I ended up taking off 1 of those inches. I didn’t make any other modifications and felt the fit was spot on. 

In summary, the Justine has made me a skirt convert. It’s easy to wear, neutral enough to wear with my wild closet, coupled with just enough detail to keep it interesting. I think you’ll be seeing lots of this baby in my wardrobe. Currently pondering a corduroy version for winter. Should I try it? 

Have I convinced you to try the pattern? If so, head over and download it here.

Want to see more of what I’ve made using Ready to Sew patterns? Check out my Jumpy pants here.

Interested to read more about the shirt I’m wearing in these photos? Read about my Willamette Shirt here.

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Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans in Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Hello! Today I’m sharing my latest outfit made from fabrics available online through Raspberry Creek Fabrics. You may have noticed by now that I’m a bit of a fabric collector and have several online fabric stores from which I regularly purchase. Raspberry Creek has a great selection of designer fabrics along with their in-house printed CLUB line. I was introduced to RCF in the summer of 2017 and just recently moved closer so that picking up my online orders could be even easier. Ok, so maybe that’s not actually why I moved to a new area, but it’s a nice perk. 

I’ve wanted to make the Named Clothing Gemma Sweater since it was released last fall. Instead, I made the dress version first (see that here), and put away the idea of a sweater for a while. It’s been in the back of my mind since, just waiting for the perfect fabric combination to come along. I wanted something with enough stretch to be comfortable, but the  correct weight and structure to really showcase the shape and style lines of the pattern. About a month ago, I was browsing Raspberry Creek Fabrics when I came across the solid ponte and knew I’d found my Gemma fabric. I chose the olive (sold out, but soon to be restocked) and charcoal for a combination that I’ve dubbed my Slytherin sweatshirt. 

A couple of years ago, I had some time to waste and decided to take the sorting quiz on Pottermore. I was perplexed when I found myself sorted into Slytherin. At first I felt almost ashamed by this because I don’t necessarily think of myself as the Tom Riddle or Draco Malfoy type. Like any millenial, I took a couple of minutes to have a mini identity crisis. Quickly, I remembered that the sorting hat allowed Harry to choose his house. In my situation (where none of this actually mattered because my life isn’t a fictional story), I decided that this means we get to choose which traits we want to embody.  loyalty and ambition aren’t bad traits and they are something I try to cultivate so maybe I can be a proud Slytherin after all. 

Ok, enough about my Hogwarts identity crisis. Let’s get back to talking about this sweater. Based on my measurements, I decided to cut and sew a size 38 (US 6). The only alteration made was to add 1″ to the length of the body and the sleeves.

I traced the pattern and cut the fabric in one afternooon, sewing it up the following afternoon. After a series of involved sewing projects, it felt liberating to start and finish something so quickly. This was my first experience sewing ponte fabric and it was much easier than expected. Despite a decent stretch percentage, it’s stable enough to sew easily without some of the headache that comes with sewing a lighter knit such as a cotton or rayon lycra. Overall, I’m so pleased with this sweater and enjoyed the process so fully that I’m considering buying a couple more colors of the RCF ponte and making matching sweaters for my sisters. 

Finally, let’s talk about these Ginger Jeans. This is my third pair of jeans and I made all the same alterations that I made to the first two (read about my sizing and alterations in this post). I’ve wanted a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans since before I dared tackle sewing a pair. In fact, one of my excuses to put off sewing jeans for so long was the difficulty in sourcing the “perfect” denim. Back in September, I unfortunately ended up  pulling an all-nighter while attempting to launch this new site. The next day, Diana posted in the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Facebook Group that Cone Mills denim had just been added to the site. In my sleep-deprived mind, I easily justified purchasing 3 yards of this tencel stretch denim. Patting my tired self on the back for this one because these black denim Gingers are dreamy. 

Just as anything handmade, there are a few imperfections and I can’t quite say that there’s absolutely nothing I’d change fit-wise (there are a few more wrinkles below the rear than I’d like), but all of my Gingers fit me 10x better than ready to wear jeans ever have and I’ve enjoyed immersing myself in the construction process each time. Jeans and pants have quickly become some of my most enjoyable and rewarding items, so if you’re on the fence about making some, what are you waiting for? Grab some Cone Mills denim and get to it. 

If you’ve made it here to the bottom, Thanks for reading. My favorite part of writing a post is finally having my items photographed so they can be added to my regular closet rotation. These two pieces are sure to get their fair share of wear as the temperatures drop over the next several months. What are you wearing/sewing for fall and winter? 

Want more Raspberry Creek Fabrics Inspiration? Check out my french terry loungewear set.  Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees or Gemma Dress. 

Full disclosure: The fabric for my sweater was provided to me, but all opinions are my own. 

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Orchid X Parasol Jumpsuit Collaboration by Chalk and Notch and Ensemble Patterns

Happy Wednesday! This Wednesday is an especially good one because I get to share my latest jumpsuit with you. Last month, Gabriela of Chalk and Notch invited me to be a tester for this  Orchid Midi and Parasol Jumpsuit collaboration with Celina of Ensemble Patterns. When I found out this collaboration included a jumpsuit, my answer was an emphatic “Yes!” I can’t put into words, why I feel so strongly about jumpsuits except to say that they make me feel like my best and most true self. Couple that with the fact that I never regret sewing up one of Gabriela’s designs, and testing this jumpsuit was a no-brainer.

First, let’s chat fabric choice. I currently have three other jumpsuits in my wardrobe, all of which are quite bold in color and/or pattern. This time, I opted to make a simple black jumpsuit. With the holiday season around the corner, I wanted something both elegant and fun for parties or date nights. The fabric is a linen/rayon blend purchased from JOANN. I can’t seem to find the exact fabric online, but it does seem to be available in most of their brick and mortar locations. It has just enough weight to be opaque, more drape than a 100% linen, and the light, soft feel of linen. I’ve been hoarding several yards of it since spring when I was able to purchase it for $7/yd. It’s become a favorite for making wearable muslins and finished products alike. 

Now that I’ve raved about fabric, let’s move on to talking about this dreamy mash-up. This collaboration includes 3 bodice options, 3 pant length options, and 1 skirt option. I opted for the long sleeved Orchid bodice paired with the Parasol long pants option. I also chose to add belt loops and the waist tie.

The way the bodice pieces are gathered and attached to the front and back yokes is one of my favorite features. It’s a simple, feminine detail that feels just right. You may have noticed that I’ve been having moment with wide-leg pants and the pants on this jumpsuit fit in nicely with my latest makes. The final feature that sold me on this pattern is the roomy pockets. Nothing ruins my day faster than putting on a one-piece outfit and realizing it has no pockets. Ok, so maybe it doesn’t ruin my day, but I don’t like it either. 

The wrap front makes adding a closure unnecessary; which makes for a delightfully quick sew. It can, however cause a bit of difficulty when getting undressed. After a couple years of jumpsuit wearing, I’ve come to the conclusion that a well-fitting jumpsuit simply takes a bit of practice to get on and off. Over the years, I’ve developed a technique I like to call the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” First, you will have a side of the jumpsuit that seems easier to get on or off. Usually this is the side that wraps over the top. On my jumpsuit, this is my right side. I drop my right shoulder, and using my left hand, gently tug on the sleeve until it is off my shoulder. I then remove my right arm from the sleeve. Dropping your left shoulder, and using your right hand, repeat for your left side. Once you’ve freed your arms, I’ll let you figure out the rest. Now you know the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” We can all try the dance (while keeping our jumpsuits on) with a virtual Instagram dance party celebrating the release of this collaboration. Just post a video on your grid or stories and tag me @nf_merritts on IG and #thejumpsuitshimmy . There are no prizes in it for you or me, but a 100% guarantee of fun and laughter. Join me? 

Whenever I wear a jumpsuit, someone will ask the inevitable question: “What do you do when you have to visit the bathroom?” Ladies and jumpsuit-loving gentlemen, I am here to tell you that the bathroom conundrum really isn’t as much of an issue as you might think. Sure, having your top half uncovered while using the restroom may not be ideal, but it’s literally 1 minute of your day. Are you willing to give up the joy of jumpsuits for a few minutes of awkwardness ( in which nobody else will actually care or notice because you’re by yourself in a stall)? I say, “No!” Honestly, does anyone truly feel comfortable in a bathroom stall any way? Jumpsuit or no jumpsuit? I’ll step off my soapbox here. I’m just really passionate about jumpsuits, ok? 

I’m now realizing that I’ve rambled on and on without notes on sizing. I’ll leave you with a few notes. My measurements put me in a 4 at the chest and a 10 at the hips. In order to make this jumpsuit work, I started with a 4 at the shoulders and bust then graded the bodice to a 10 at the waist. I then cut a straight 10 for the pants. I added 1″ in length to the bodice, 1/2″ to the rise on the pants, 1″ to the sleeve length, and 3″ to the pant length. These alterations are all standard for me, and I found the original drafting consistent with the size chart. 

If you’ve made it all the way to the end here, I’d just like to say, “Thank you!” My feelings about jumpsuits can be intense and I truly applaud you for reading all the way to the end. 

Special thanks to my Instagram (and real life) husband, Marshall for taking these photos. He’s been stepping up his photo taking skills over the last year and it’s been a lot of fun learning this photography thing together.