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Sew Fancy Pants Project 5: Closet Case Patterns Jenny Overalls

Hello again! Today I’m back on the #sewfancypants train with this pair of tapered leg Jenny Overalls. I’ve loved overalls for as long as I can remember and can find at least three “first day of school” pictures in which I’m wearing a pair. Surprisingly, I was on the fence about this pattern for a while until seeing Sara’s tapered corduroy Jenny Overalls. Her version won me over and I knew these were the pants I needed in my life. In fact, these were the first pants I planned when throwing around the idea of the Sew Fancy Pants challenge.

Fabric

Often I plan projects after finding the perfect fabric, this time though, I planned this project around the pattern. After searching through several online shops, I saw this 14 oz Cone Mills Dark Olive Denim (use code ‘Fancy15’ to save 15% through Jan. 31st) from Sewing Studio. Karleen was kind enough to send me this fabric for use in this post and I was delighted when it arrived. The deep color and substantial weight of this denim is perfect for a hefty, durable pair of overalls. I was nervous that my machine would have difficulty handling several layers, but with fresh, sharp denim needles it handled just fine. Only one needle was sacrificed in the making of these overalls.

Fitting

According to the size chart included with the Jenny overalls, my measurements put me right between a 10 and a 12. In previous experiences with Closet Case Patterns, I’ve sized down when in between sizes and had success. I chose to cut a size 10 and use pattern pieces from a tapered leg pants pattern as a reference when straightening out the legs. The original shape of the crotch and waist seams were kept the same when doing this. One mistake I made when cutting the fabric was not adding my standard 1/2″ of length to the front and back rise. This mistake likely led to more fitting work than I estimated.

I went through three baste-fittings, attempting to attain a ‘good fit.’ I found this post by Closet Case Patterns and this post by Melly Sews good references while fitting. I had quite a wedgie in the back so I scooped the back crotch a bit and that seemed to work. My other fit issue were some serious lines in the front. After examining them, I determined the best course of action to be a bit of a round pubis adjustment. Both of these adjustments seemed to help my major issues and after several days of fitting work; I decided to call the fit ‘good enough.’ It’s not perfect, but I’m happy with it and plan to wear these despite any imperfections.

Construction

As I’ve come to expect from Closet Case Patterns, the instructions were fairly detailed and I didn’t have any issues understanding them. These overalls were the most intensive and time consuming of all my Sew Fancy Pants projects. After spending 3 evenings on fitting, I spent 4 on the construction. The first evening was spent on prepping pockets, the second attaching pockets and inserting the zipper, the third attaching the bib portion to the pants, and the fourth on hems and hardware. While intensive, I wouldn’t consider this project more difficult than any of the jeans I’ve made and I quite enjoyed making a distinctively different from my other recent projects.

Details

Something that will always draw me to overalls is the perfect criss-cross of their straps. I’m not sure what makes me love them, but that ‘x’ across the back gets me every single time. The pattern also includes Interestingly angled bib pockets with front pants pockets having openings that similarly mirror those angles. The curved back pockets provide a nice contrast to all the included angles while also flattering the backside. Overall, I’m smitten with the detailed look of these overalls and took my time sewing each one.

Conclusions

It felt deeply satisfying to check this pair of overalls off my list. They’re more traditional than my Ronja Dungarees and Burnside Bibs and I love having a pair of overalls that hints at traditional, but provides a lovely twist with the dark olive color. I see them acting as a neutral in my wardrobe and pairing well with many of my tops, but love them paired here with my favorite Archer Shirt. The beautifully hefty fabric is sure to last well and my hope is that I’ll be able to wear these Jenny Overalls for years to come.

Thanks for reading!

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Breaking the Pattern Ruska Knot Dress

Happy Monday! Taking a small departure from #sewfancypants to throw my hat in the ring for #sewtwistsandties by sharing my Ruska Knot Dress. This is another pattern included in the book Breaking the Pattern written by the ladies of Named Clothing. The Kaste Dress is what convinced me to buy the book, but projects like this Ruska Dress make me want to try everything.

Fabric

Back in December, I was fortunate to work with the ladies of Merritt Makes to share my Archer Button Up. When they asked me if I’d like to collaborate again and use some of their new sweater knit, I happily agreed. I had swatches of the fabric (they offer free swatches if you just ask), and knew it was something I’d like to use. This fabric was provided to me, but I also purchased 1.5 yards of another color to make a Nikko Top because it’s that good (see the Nikko I made in this post). The combination of rayon/modal/cotton/spandex in this sweater knit makes it feel lightweight and cozy all at the same time. The weight is perfect for a layering piece like a Nikko or even a t-shirt during transitional months. For this dress, I chose the charcoal color, and it’s opaque enough that I don’t feel a need to wear any type of slip underneath. Honestly, I should have bought a couple yards of each color because I’ve worn my Nikko in the mink color at least 3 times a week for the last 2 weeks and this dress for the last two days. In short, I’m a fan.

Preparation and Alterations

In general, I prefer the convenience of PDF patterns to paper patterns or books but, when a book includes so many beautiful options, I have to concede. A sweet former co-worker of mine introduced me to Pellon 830 or Easy Pattern years ago and it’s become my go-to for tracing patterns. It’s more durable than tracing paper, can be sewn (I often baste it together to check fit before cutting main fabric), and even ironed on a low setting when my pieces inevitably become crumpled due to my poor pattern organization. If I’ve convinced you to give it a try it’s usually available at JoAnn Fabrics and on Amazon.

I spent an evening tracing the 5 pattern pieces and cutting fabric. Like most people, I’m not a straight size and had to do a little bit of grading. I used a size 2 at the bust, graded to a 4 at the waist, and a 5 at the hips. I also added 4 inches to the length, but after trying on the nearly completed dress, decided to cut off 3 of those extra inches before hemming. Lesson learned. Next time I’ll just add 1 inch to the length. Other than minor grading and adding some length, my only other alteration was to use the long sleeves instead of the short sleeve length.

Construction

Unfortunately, I never quite keep an accurate count of the time spent on construction due to the regular disruptions that come with sewing and parenting at the same time. Nevertheless, I do know that this was a fairly straightforward and quick sew. I spent one evening constructing the dress and part of an afternoon hemming it. The trickiest part of construction was hemming the ties, but I pressed them well, used lots of pins and took my time with the double needle. As long as you’re not trying the rush the process, I think success can be yours. To sew the seams, I just used the lightning stitch on my regular machine. I then pressed them open and finished all the raw edges with my serger. Since this is a knit, finishing the edges isn’t necessary and you can complete this project without a serger. Adding twill tape at the shoulder seams provided necessary stabilization and was much easier than the clear elastic often recommended for the same purpose. Constructing this dress was a breath of fresh air in the middle of this month’s pants frenzy, a reminder that mixing things up once in a while is a welcome idea.


The Why Behind Making the Ruska Dress

When planning this dress, I had a date night outfit in mind. I don’t own a basic black dress and wanted something that was simultaneously comfortable, simple, and sexy. My day to day look includes little to no makeup, a top knot, and a simple top and pants. It’s rare these days that I get a chance to dress up and feel like an adult apart from my role as a mother. Earlier this month, my husband turned 28 and I wanted something extra special to wear for going out.

My husband’s birthday is always an extra special occasion because it also marks the anniversary of the first time we spent time together outside of school classes. Twelve years ago, he left his own 16th birthday party to come hang out with me and my friends at a high school basketball game. Afterwards, we went to Wendy’s where we got chased out of the restaurant after Marshall (my husband) and a couple of his friends attempted to go through the drive through with a shopping cart. We got in our respective cars and regrouped at Burger King before deciding that maybe we should go home before getting into any more trouble. I still remember going home that night and giggling with my sister Amanda and friend Teisha about this goofy boy that got us kicked out of Wendy’s. I’m sitting here smiling at the memory of my 15 year old self slowly falling for the boy who wooed me by knowing the nickname of Iowa (I moved to Utah from Iowa at 15) and left his birthday party to spend time with my friends and me.

Final Thoughts

Honestly, I’m unsure of what to say that hasn’t already been said. This sweater knit and the Ruska Knot Dress seem destined for one another and I don’t want to ever take this off (currently wearing it as I type). Perhaps this spring or summer I’ll even find the time to whip up a short sleeve version of this dress. It would look equally lovely in the marine or oxblood colors of this knit also available from Merritt Makes. The fit, fabric, and design are exactly what I was looking for and, while not 100% perfect, I don’t think there’s anything I’d change.

Thanks for reading! Leaving you with a photo that’s a more accurate representation of what taking blog photos usually entails.

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Sew Fancy Pants Projects 3 and 4: Persephone Pants and the Olli Summer Pants

Hello! I’m back on the #sewfancypants train and looking forward to sharing today’s looks. My son has seen me sewing up a storm over the last few weeks and always asks, “Is that for you or is it for me?” So, when I had some long, odd shaped scraps left over from my Persephone Pants, I opted to sew them up into matching pants for my son. His pants are the Misusu Patterns Olli Summer Pants which are a favorite around here. Let’s get on to the details.

Fabric

I wear my two solid colored Persephone Pants several times each week, and knew I needed to add another a pair to the rotation. For this pair I selected this Blue/Grey Ventana Twill from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. (Disclosure: this fabric was provided to me for this post, but all opinions are my own). The fabric has a pronounced twill weave and a mid-weight of 7.9 oz. At 45″ wide, it’s not quite as wide as most bottom weight fabrics, so I did have to get 3 yards in order to have enough fabric. Despite the narrower width, it’s priced great and 3 yards of this fabric costs about the same as 2 yards of other bottom weights I’ve used (psssst: to get an even better deal you can use code ‘FANCYPANTS20’ to save 20% at RCF through January). Like many cottons, this fabric relaxes a bit with wear, so I opted to make my pants just a touch tight. I’ve been wearing them since taking photos a few hours ago, and they’ve now relaxed and are feeling just right.

Persephone Pants

This is my 4th pair of Persephone Pants and I still don’t think I’m done making them. If you want to know the my fitting adjustments you can find them in the post all about my first pair of Persephones. Now that I’ve made them several times, I can get a pair sewn up in about 4 hours. Wearing them makes me feel infinitely cooler than I actually am and this blue/grey pair will be a welcome wardrobe addition. Counting down the days until spring so I can start pairing these with all my fun patterned blouses. Something about winter makes me wear black and white on the daily.

I literally spent weeks hemming and hawing over what to make for this post. Time kept coming and I was feeling the pressure to sew something completely new and unique, but no ideas were sparking joy. The thought of making another pair of Persephone Pants felt like an epiphany. As a blogger, there’s often pressure to feel like content has to be completely new in order to share. Making and wearing this pattern makes me happy, and why shouldn’t that be worth something?

Another bonus to having made this pattern so many times? Upon seeing these, my husband remarked that the workmanship was my most professional yet. Sewing a pattern more than once allows me to slow down and hone the skills related to each step instead of fretting about what skills will be needed for the next. When I first started sewing for myself, I made the same few patterns 5-10 times and it was a great way to refine the skills related to each pattern. Since then, my sewing skills have grown and diversified, but I love going back to my sewing roots and focusing on skill building once again. Maybe I’ll do more of that this coming year.

Summer Olli Pants

I was first introduced to Misusu Patterns after seeing the Origami Sweater on Instagram. Elles has a fantastic pattern collection filled with interesting children’s designs for both boys and girls. Finding exciting and imaginative designs for boys is sometimes a challenge, but that’s not the case with these patterns. Last summer, the Summer Olli Pants and Shorts pattern was released and made available for free to members of the Misusu Patterns Sew and Tell Facebook group. Upon hearing this, I joined the group, downloaded the pattern, and promptly made my son a few pairs of shorts.

Once winter arrived and he could no longer wear his Olli Shorts outside, I noticed my son changing into them whenever we were home. After a few days of this, I asked him why he wanted to wear his shorts at home. He replied, ” The pockets fit my duct tape wallet!” I remedied this situation by making him two pairs of the pants for Christmas, and now, a third pair in this blue/grey twill. Now he’ll have plenty of pants to hold his wallet and keep him warm.

The style lines of this pattern lend themselves well to both scrap busting and color-blocking. I’ve already got a few color-blocked shorts in mind for summer. Good-bye scraps, hello wonderfully eighties shorts. Another feature I love about this pattern is a decent size range from 0-3 months all the way up to 5-6 years. My tall 5 year old is at the top of the size range wearing a 5/6 with 1 inch added to the length. It’s also a rather quick sew. With the pieces already cut, I was able to finish all but the hem of these during the 2 hours and 20 minutes I have to myself while my son is at school. This time included a lunch break, so I probably could’ve completed them during that time if I didn’t take a break. The Summer Olli Pants and Shorts check all the kid’s clothing boxes for me: free pattern, great scrap buster, stylish, and a quick sew? What are you waiting for? If you’ve got a cool kid in your life, you need this pattern.

The Verdict

Sticking with familiar patterns in a new to me fabric was 100% the right choice. It also helped the process along when I cut both pairs of pants at the same time, from now on I’d like to do this more. It cut down on the amount of leftover fabric and gave me the motivation to finish both in succession. The long skinny pattern pieces required for the Olli Pants were the perfect size to fit on my oddly shaped scraps and (bonus!) made me feel less wasteful. I’m a Ventana Twill convert and plan to acquire either the Canyon Red or Mauve Berry in the near future. Any ideas on what I should use it for next?

Thanks for reading!

Interested in more of my Sew Fancy Pants Projects? Check out my Sienna Persephone Pants or my Emerson Crop Pants.

Want to see more of what I’ve made with Raspberry Creek Fabrics? Check out my Matching Loungewear, Perkins Shirt, or Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans.

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Sew Fancy Pants Project 2: True Bias Emerson Crop Pants

Hello! Happy Sunday all. How is your fancy pants sewing coming along? Today I’m sharing my second finish for #sewfancypants, a pair of True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. As mentioned in my plans and inspiration post, I didn’t give the Emerson pattern much consideration until Kelli released a high-waisted option last fall. Then, I knew they had to happen. I’ve now sewn all the True Bias pant patterns and feel like I’ve achieved some sort of True Bias Trifecta.


Fabric Choice

I knew back in October that I wanted to make these pants, but choosing the perfect fabric took more time than expected. Initially, I had planned to make a solid colored pair in tencel twill or silk noil. I scoured the internet for fabric that would make my heart sing, but kept coming up empty. Finally, in December, I was browsing ‘tencel’ on StyleMaker Fabrics and came upon this Black and White Grid Plaid Tencel. It was the one and I ordered it immediately. Once it arrived, I loved it even more. Between the gridded lines are tiny stripes that add texture and interest to the fabric when seen up close. I cut out these pants at our January sewing night on Thursday and several of the ladies ‘oohed and ahhed’ over it. It has a decent drape, but enough weight to feel comfortable as a pair of pants. The texture makes it a bit less slippery than a solid tencel so working with it was a dream.

Construction

As mentioned above, I cut this project on Thursday evening. In order to get photographs and have this blog post up today, I had to do all the sewing on Friday evening. I’m actually not a terribly fast seamstress, so finishing a pair of pants in a day seemed daunting. The Emerson Crop Pants are perfect for this kind of sewing. The pleats, pockets, and flat front waistband provide just enough details to keep things interesting, while making the pants an easy sew. I didn’t time myself exactly but, I think the actual sewing took about four hours start to finish. These pants could likely be sewn in less time if made in a solid or print with no need for pattern matching. I took extra care and did my best to line up the grid on side seams, crotch, and inseams. The pockets and front waistband were cut on the bias to eliminate bit of the pattern-matching headache. It’s not perfectly lined up everywhere but; someone would have to get pretty close to notice that, so I’m satisfied with the result.

Fit and Alterations

My body measurements put me at an 8 waist, and right between a 10 and 12 at the hips. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I opted to sew a straight size 10. I chose not to grade down at the waist because I figured simply using a shorter length of elastic at the waist would be an easier solution than starting with an 8 and grading out. The only other modification made was adding 5 inches to the length. I usually add 3-4 inches in length to my other True Bias pants but, added a little more here because I wanted the hem just above my ankle, making the pants wearable year-round. Overall, I’m really pleased with the fit of these pants. I may go back in and remove a bit of length from the elastic, but that’s the only thing I would change.

End Result

After photographing these pants, we had a little family date night and went out to eat. I paired them with booties, my latest Nikko Top, and a cropped black Wiksten Haori. The result was an outfit fancy enough for a night out, but comfortable enough that I could eat all I wanted at dinner without my pants feeling too tight (thank you elastic waistband). After wearing these, I realized that I need more pants like this in my life. Next time I make this pattern, I think I’ll taper the leg and use a linen for an easy pair of summer pants. I plan to wear this pair year round, pairing it with some of my solid colored tees in the warmer months.

Thanks for reading! Don’t forget to follow along with the ladies of Sew Fancy Pants (Katie, Jen, Loni, and me) because we’ve got more fun and inspiration coming your way all month. Head to my Instagram and enter the StyleMaker Fabrics Giveaway, but don’t delay because it ends Tuesday.

Want to see more of what I’ve made using fabrics from StyleMaker? Check out my Gemma Dress, Joy Jacket, or Spring Style Tour posts.

Fan of True Bias Patterns? Check out my Lodo Dress, Lander Pants, Hudson Pants, or Roscoe Blouse.

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Sew Fancy Pants Week 2: Fabric Inspiration (Jeans Edition)

I’m back for one last #sewfancypants fabric selection post. Today’s post is all about those jeans both stretch and non-stretch. I made my first pair of jeans last January and was hooked on the idea of proper fitting jeans in all the best denims. Since then, I’ve made 4 pairs of jeans and hope to make another pair before the month is over. I’ve rounded up my current favorite jeans patterns with an array of options to make your handmade jeans dream come true. Let’s get started!

Non-Stretch Jeans

Wyome Boyfriend Jeans, Palo Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Heroine Jeans, Morgan Jeans

Whether you want a good pair of boyfriend jeans, some “mom jeans,” or a more traditional take on denim, the above patterns have got you covered. I love the idea of going bold and trying these in a colored denim just as much as sewing a traditional indigo pair. Whether you’re aiming for bold or classic, there’s a good chance you’ll find what you’re looking for in the picks below.

  1. Cotton/Silk Blend Denim  from Sewing Studio: The slubby texture of this denim is something special and I think it would make any pants “fancy pants.”
  2. Cone Mills 9 oz Denim in Red from Imagine Gnats
  3. Cone Mills 9.75 oz Denim in Industrial Yellow from D & H Fabrics
  4. Indigo 10 oz Denim Bleached Wash  from Harts Fabric
  5. 10 oz Cotton Denim in True Black from Blackbird Fabrics
  6. Cone Mills Denim 11.5 oz in Dark Indigo from Imagine Gnats: I actually just finished a pair of jeans (that I can’t show you quite yet) using this denim and I LOVE them.
  7. Textured Cotton Denim in Summer White from StyleMaker Fabrics
  8. Cone Mills 9 oz Denim in Mint Green from Threadbare Fabrics

Stretch Jeans

Bryce Cargo Pants, Ginger Jeans, Safran Pants, Ash Jeans

Lycra: the best thing to happen to pants since their invention. Seriously, who doesn’t like a little stretch to their pants. I’ve made three pairs of Ginger Jeans and wear them almost daily. Each time I’ve made them, I’ve used a different denim and discovered that the pair in Cone Mills denim is my favorite, with my second favorite being a brushed denim pair.

  1. 12 oz Cone Mills S-Gene Denim in Indigo from Threadbare Fabrics: I have yet to make a pair of stretch jeans in this weight, but I’d love to have a thicker pair for the winter months.
  2. Stretch Chino Twill in Hunter Green from La Mercerie
  3. Micro Wale Stretch Corduroy in Cinnamon from La Mercerie: This color is having a serious moment right now and I’m here for it.
  4. Cone Mills Light Indigo Tencel Stretch Denim from L.A. Finch Fabrics
  5. Black Cone Mills Tencel Stretch Denim from Raspberry Creek Fabrics: I have a pair of Ginger Jeans made from this exact fabric (here) and I wear them at least twice each week.
  6. Designer Mid-Weight Stretch Denim in Sepia from StyleMaker Fabrics
  7. Cone Mills Stretch Bull Denim in Nearly White from Imagine Gnats
  8. Stretch Twill 7 oz in Mauve from Imagine Gnats

Whew! Now that I’ve shown you all my favorite fancy pants fabric, I hope you’re ready to get started on those fancy pants! I don’t think I’ve ever spent more time looking at fabric online as I have this week. We’ve got more giveaways, tips, and fun coming your way so make sure you’re following along with #sewfancypants and all the hosts (Loni, Katie, Jennifer, and me) on IG. I’ll be back tomorrow with the reveal of my second Sew Fancy Pants project and a giveaway with StyleMaker Fabrics. Stay tuned for next week when we’ll talk fitting.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants Week 2: Fabric Inspiration (Intermediate/Advanced Trouser Edition)

I’m back with another round of #sewfancypants fabric picks. Honestly, it’s taking every ounce of self-control to not buy fabric for all the pants right now because the harder I look, the more patterns I want to make and fabric I want to sew. My last post focused on fabric and patterns for the beginner (here) and today we’ll be amping up the difficulty. Today’s round of fabric inspiration is all about stretch and non-stretch trousers for the intermediate to advanced sewist. (just FYI: None of these links are affiliate links, I just genuinely like all of these fabrics and want them to become fancy pants.)

Non-stretch Trousers

Chi-Town Chinos, Lander Pant, Persephone Pants, Robinson Trousers
Jenny Overalls, Ronja Dungarees, Colibri Overalls, Kendrick Overalls

I have a total crush on all of these patterns and wish I could make them all. The ones I have made are the Lander Pant, Persephone Pants and Ronja Dungarees. Hopefully before the month is over I’ll also have a pair of Jenny Overalls to add to the mix. If I had unlimited fabric money and sewing time, I’d make a few of each with the fabrics I’ve selected. I decided to separate my fabric selections into two categories: natural earth tones and bold brights. This way, you have options no matter what vibe you’re looking to create with your fancy pants.

  1. 10 oz Cotton Denim in True Black from Blackbird Fabrics
  2. Bull Denim Twill in Sable  from Sewing Studio
  3. Cotton Twill Solid in Honey from StyleMaker Fabrics Navy and White Rail Stripe Denim from D & H Fabrics
  4. Cone Mills Dark Olive Denim from Sewing Studio
  5. Tropical Floral Cotton Sateen from StyleMaker Fabrics
  6. Natural Organic Cotton Twill from Merritt Makes

  1. Bull Denim Twill in Royal from Sewing Studio
  2. Chino Twill in Lilac from La Mercerie
  3. Plum Organic Cotton Twill from Merritt Makes
  4. Reversible Printed Denim in Military Blue from StyleMaker Fabrics
  5. Mauve Ventana Twill from Raspberry Creek Fabrics
  6. Ventana Twill in Fox  from Imagine Gnats
  7. Cotton Chino Twill in Emerald from D & H Fabrics

Stretch Trousers

I have yet to make a good pair of stretch trousers, but when I do, the Sasha Trousers and North Point Trousers will be at the top of my list. Below I’ve included just a few favorites. Whether you’re looking for a classic solid trouser or something a little funky, the shops below have got you covered.

Sasha Trousers, North Point Trousers
  1. Stretch Twill in Fir from Harts Fabric
  2. Pixel Floral Stretch Sateen from StyleMaker Fabrics
  3. Gingham Stretch Twill in Black/White from StyleMaker Fabrics
  4. Stretch Cotton Twill in Denim from Blackbird Fabrics

That’s all for today. Be sure to check back tomorrow for a post with all my favorite denim sources so you can get to work on those fancy jeans. Don’t forget to follow along on Instagram with Jennifer, Loni, Katie, and me because we’ve got fabric giveaways coming your way all week! Can’t wait to see your fancy pants!

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Sew Fancy Pants Week 2: Fabric Inspiration (Beginner Edition)

#sewfancypants Week 2 has arrived and this week is all about that glorious fabric. Check out Loni’s post for a highlight of the brands helping us this week and a master list of discount codes just for you! The right fabric can make or break a project so we’re here to guide you through this all important decision. Over on Instagram we’ll be giving away fabric from SIX of our amazing sponsors so make sure you’re following each of us (Jen, Loni, Katie, and me) if you don’t want to miss out. I’m quite literally overflowing with ideas for fabric choices, and, as such, have decided to break down my fabric inspiration into a couple of posts. While today’s post will mainly focus on fabric for beginner level pant patterns, using some of these fabrics can also up the difficulty level so no need to click away if you’re looking for a challenge.

Fancy Pants: Loungewear Edition

Whether you want something cozy for lounging around the house, or something a little more special for going out, the jogger trend is one that seems here to stay (I’m certainly not ready to let it go). If you’re looking at pattern options, check out the Seamly No Sweat Pants, Named Ruri Sweatpants, or the wildly popular True Bias Hudson Pants. I personally own 4 pairs of Hudson Pants and wear them weekly. If you’re planning a special pair for lounging around the house, french terry is a good place to start. Look for something with a little bit of spandex so that your pants won’t be over-stretched after a day of wear. Ready to level up and get a little fancy? Try using stretch velvet for a pair of joggers you can wear at home and on a night out (quick tip: trying a pair of stretch velvet Hudson Pants? Size up at least one size). Below I’ve compiled some options that I’m loving at the moment. I may or may not be trying to stop myself from ordering 12 yards of fabric while writing this post.

  1. Olive Soy Blend French Terry from Merritt Makes. This one is a little on the light side for pants, but I LOVE the feel of it and it would make the perfect pants for lounging around the house. This one seems especially suited for the Seamly No Sweat Pants.
  2. Feeling a little less serious and a little more fun? Try out this Navy Blue Dinosaurs on Grey French Terry from Raspberry Creek Fabrics.
  3. If you want to feel extra cozy and luxurious, you could spring for this Plum Lyocell Sweatshirt Fleece from Raspberry Creek Fabrics.
  4. I made myself a pair of Hudson Pants in this Taupe Stretch Panne Velvet from StyleMaker Fabrics and, over the last year, they’ve become an unexpected wardrobe workhorse.
  5. This is the fabric that I’m desperately trying (and likely failing) to convince myself I don’t need. Seriously though, wouldn’t a pair of joggers in this Romantic Rose Stretch Velvet from StyleMaker Fabrics be a dream?
  6. This Gunmetal Stretch Velvet from Harts Fabric would be a great choice for a slightly more reserved pair of velvet joggers.

Fancy Pants: Knit Trouser Edition

Want the minimal fitting drama of knits, but something more work appropriate? Two options that I’m loving at the moment are the Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers and the Ensemble Patterns Robinson Trousers. I haven’t made either of these patterns yet and seriously, why haven’t I? I’m thinking of making some of each for my baby sister who will soon be a special education teacher. Professional look with the comfort of pajamas? Just what every teacher needs in their wardrobe. Below I’ve compiled a list of my favorite ponte and scuba knits that I think would work great for either pattern.


  1. Italian Designer Variegated Ponte Knit Navy/Black from StyleMaker Fabrics: Even the name of this one sounds fancy! I love that Ponte Dot in Black this fabric looks to have a subtle texture. It’s interesting enough to feel special, while still being sophisticated.
  2. Charcoal and Cream Geometric Ponte from Raspberry Creek Fabrics: I’ve been obsessing over this print since seeing it used in this Fulton Sweater Blazer, and think it would make a crazy fun pair of pants.
  3. Ponte De Roma Solid Spruce from LA Finch Fabrics: Cannot get enough of this deep green/blue and will forever want to buy any fabric in this color.
  4. Ponte Rayon in Blush from IndieSew: Blush is having a moment right now and I really just want to enjoy it by seeing someone make a pair of blush Joan Trousers.
  5. Bold Botanical Scuba Knit from La Mercerie: Fancy knit trouser dreams are made of this fabric, I’m sure of it.
  6. Ponte Dot in Black from Harts Fabric: I love the idea of using this fabric to make a pair of trousers that look simple and chic from far away but, have a polka dot surprise up close.

Fancy Pants: Beginner Woven Edition

Are you looking for something simple, but not wanting to make loungewear? These beginner friendly patterns are a great way to try out pants making without too much fitting hassle and no closures. Try the Named Ninni Culottes, Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs, Sew Liberated Arenite Pants, True Bias Emerson Pants, or French Navy Now Calyer Pants. The fabrics below would work for almost any of these patterns.

  1. Navy Constellation Rayon Crepe from Threadbare Fabrics: This would make a great lightweight pair of pants perfect for spring and summer.
  2. Cedarwood Tencel Twill from Blackbird Fabrics: I cannot get this color out of my head. It’s pretty, sophisticated, and fun all at once.
  3. Teal Green Silk Noil from Sewing Studio: The idea of pants from Silk Noil seems luxurious to me and this color would make a statement.
  4. Posie Blue Viscose Dobby from Imagine Gnats: This Atelier Brunette fabric would be an adorable pair of Ninni Culottes.
  5. Warm Stone Tencel Twill II from Blackbird Fabrics: I love this neutral grey/brown color. I think it would make a versatile pair of pants in any of the above styles.
  6. Brussels Washer Linen in Denim from Imagine Gnats: A rayon/linen blend is a great way to try new styles and techniques. This fabric has a bit of drape, with enough sturdiness to make working with it a breeze. Besides, who doesn’t need a basic pair of light denim colored pants?
  7. Vanilla/Black Grid Plaid Tencel from StyleMaker Fabrics: I have some of this fabric that I’m currently working to turn into a pair of high-waisted Emerson Crop Pants. When I’m nervous to try a style in a print, I always reach for a black and white print.
  8. Checkers Linen/Tencel from D&H Fabrics: This is one that I just discovered while looking for inspiration and I think I might be in love. Wouldn’t this make a lovely pair of Calyer Pants or a striking pair of Burnside Bibs?
  9. Mustard Avery Slub Linen Blend from La Mercerie: There are several colors of this linen blend available from La Mercerie. The variety means it would be easy to find a color that suits your personal style.

That’s all for today! I’ll be back later this week with fabric inspiration for your more advanced pants projects. See you then! Until then, be sure to check out our week 2 sponsors and follow along on Instagram where we’ll be sharing fabric inspiration and giveaways all week. Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants Project 1: Persephone Pants, a Roscoe Blouse, and Triumph

Week one of #sewfancypants is coming to an end and what a week it’s been. Honestly, I’m a bit teary-eyed (in a good way) about it all. (PSA: This post veers a bit from my normal format. If you’re just here for fabric or fitting details, you’ll find them by scrolling to the bottom of this post) Maybe it’s the fact that organizing this whole deal has brought me new friends in Loni, Jen, and Katie, perhaps something to do with so many of you participating and sharing the love, or I’m simply at the tail end of an emotional roller coaster of a month but, right now, I’m feeling triumphant. It’s a moment I want to hold onto as I sit here typing tonight. Looking at the picture below, that’s what I see. Triumph.

There are few times in my life where I can describe feeling truly triumphant, in fact, I could list them all here:

  • One time in the state middle school mock trial tournament when, as a ‘witness’, I made the opposing team ‘lawyer’ so frustrated he nearly broke into tears.
  • I was so deliriously tired that I don’t remember the exact timeline, but sometime in the first few weeks of my son’s life when I held my son and just knew we had always belonged to each other.
  • This last summer, drenched in sweat, laughing, and standing under a swamp cooler with my husband after moving most of our belongings into our first home.
  • Wearing this outfit today and looking at the woman I see in the above picture.

As a child and teen, I was privileged to grow up in a home filled with love, encouragement, humor, and far too many fart jokes. As a result, I never had to worry about so many of the heavy things that are unfairly thrust upon children at a young age. In truth, much of my childhood was uncomplicated and easy. Sure, I initially found it to be difficult to make friends when we moved, and I had no athletic ability but; I found my dearest friends in my siblings and school work came easily to me. Fast forward to just about six years ago….


At the time, I was a newlywed of about six months, struggling in school, and had found out a couple of months prior that I was pregnant (not in our immediate plan at the time). Despite the love and support of friends and family surrounding me, for the first time in my life, life felt heavy, terrifying, and just really darn hard. I was flailing, sad, and too ashamed to ask for the help that I so desperately needed in school. Instead, I decided to quit. I quit with just three semesters remaining until graduation. Just typing that last sentence made my heart sink. That decision isn’t one that makes me proud, but it is one that has shaped the Nicole I now see.

Over the following months and years, I would find myself worrying about the possibility of running into an old professor or classmate while out and about. What would I say? How would I explain what I felt to be a colossal failure? Would they think less of me because of my decision? Was I somehow unworthy of happiness or success because I hadn’t taken full advantage of the opportunities I was given at the time? Feelings of doubt and shame often clouded the back of my mind.

Months passed, I gave birth to a beautiful boy with a full head of blonde hair. My husband chose a new major and worked evenings to support our family. I worked weekends at an inspiring fabric store called Suppose. There, I fell in love with fabric. Sewing had been part of my life for years prior to this but; it was in those quiet lonely evenings, with the apartment all to myself, that I began rebuilding my confidence through creativity.

It started small. I would find a pretty piece of fabric at work and stitch it into a basic top or a small quilt block. Sometimes I’d get crazy and sew a dress. Eventually, I started setting small sewing goals for myself. One of my first was the #supposeselfie. Over the course of a year or so, I set a goal to make something new each week and wear it to work on the weekend. For the most part, I stuck to it and my skills slowly grew. I look back at those pictures and can almost see the self-assurance growing along with my skill set.

Throughout the last several years, I’ve pieced over a dozen quilts, taught a few sewing classes, sewn countless items of apparel, taken on commissions here and there, and even designed a gender neutral collection of children’s play clothing which was shown at Utah Fashion Week in the spring of 2017. In 2018, I leveled up my sewing by making my first coat and several pairs of jeans. I blogged more than ever before, finally moved my website to its own domain, and started reaching out to collaborators. Every item, every stitch, and every opportunity pushed me. Some of these projects brought me to tears with challenges and deadlines both real and imagined. These projects also did something unexpected. They reconnected me to the fearless Nicole that I once knew.

You see, sewing wasn’t something I had to do. It wasn’t paying the family bills or putting food on the table. I could have quit at any time. That first time I cried over a poorly fitting garment? Could’ve quit then. The night my machine went haywire at 2am while trying to finish one of my first commissions? Could’ve quit then. What about applying to show a small collection in Utah Fashion Week when my husband’s school schedule was so full that I was often solo parenting from dawn to bedtime? Did not have to do that. Yet, it happened. I faced my fears. I tried. I failed. I tried again. I failed again. I kept sewing. I didn’t quit. I am not a quitter.

Yesterday as I sewed these Persephone Pants and later this Roscoe Blouse, I took a moment to appreciate how quickly and beautifully they came together. These pants are one of most well made items I’ve ever sewn; yet they came together almost without a hitch. To everyone else, these are just a nice pair of pants but, to me, they’re a symbol of the hours and years I’ve worked to develop the necessary skills, my own personal triumph.

The year 2018 was one of my most challenging yet, both personally and professionally. It included change, difficulty, heartache, and a decent amount of uncertainty. With the challenges of the year also came immense joy, some lost sleep, a lot of hard work, and triumph. Six years ago, the difficulties of 2018 would have stopped me. Today I realized they didn’t. Sure, there were moments where I wanted to stop moving forward, and sometimes I even let those feelings sit with me for a few days, but I didn’t quit.

Looking back on the me I knew six years ago, my only regret is that I didn’t show her a little more compassion. That I didn’t deem her worthy of self-acceptance. Am I proud that I didn’t finish my degree? No. Did I learn from that decision? Yes. Am I still learning from it? You bet. Will I go back and accomplish that goal one day? I plan on it. Until then, I’ll keep sewing and moving forward. Maybe I’ll even figure out what I want to be when I grow up. I’ve got a lot yet to learn, but I’m here for the long haul.

There you have it, a long-winded personal narrative on how sewing taught me self-love, hard work, persistence, and triumph. I cannot close without noting that while this story is about my personal journey with sewing, it wasn’t a road I traveled alone. My husband, son, parents, siblings, and friends cheered and encouraged my creations. Jo and Kathy of Suppose provided a shop full of inspiration where my dreams ran free. I’ve felt the love and encouragement of countless sewing friends both in person and online. Maybe tomorrow I’ll shed a tear over an incorrectly sewn seam or feel discouragement when a post doesn’t get the engagement I’d hoped but, tonight this feels good.

Fabric and Pattern Details

Top: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Atelier Brunette viscose from D&H Fabrics. Find my Roscoe Blouse fit info in this post.

Pants: Anna Allen Clothing Persephone Pants in Burnt Sienna Twill from D&H Fabrics. Find my Persephone fit info in this post.

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Sew Fancy Pants: Pattern Plans and Inspiration

Whew! What a week it’s been and it’s only Wednesday. We’ve been truly blown away by the response to the Fancy Pants Sewing Party over the last couple of days. Excitement is in the air and it makes me want to plan all of the pants sewing. This month, I have three pairs of pants planned with a fourth pair planned as a stretch goal.

Project 1: Persephone Pants

First up, adding something simple and practical to my pants wardrobe. I made my first two pairs of Anna Allen Persephone Pants back in August, and reach for the dusty pink pair weekly. What makes this decision, “fancy?” The high-waisted wide leg pant lends itself well to casual day wear, but looks equally stylish paired with a turtleneck and booties. I plan to use a sienna twill inspired by the Kamm pants pictured above. They’re basically an exact copy of Katie’s pants that you see in this post. No shame in my “fancy pants” game. My wardrobe is in dire need of neutrals and hopefully these will fit the bill.

Heather’s Overalls, Sara’s Overalls

Project 2: Tapered Jenny Overalls

I’ll be honest in saying that I wasn’t initially sold on the Jenny Overalls when the pattern first released. I’ve been a fan of overalls since kindergarten so I’m usually the first one to fall in love when it comes to them. My mind was quickly changed when I saw these golden corduroy ones made by Sara. I’ve selected a beautiful heavyweight olive denim from Sewing Studio for them and am just waiting for hardware to arrive before I can get started.

Project 3: High Waisted Emerson Crop Pants

The True Bias Emerson Pants have been on my radar for a while now. The one hang up I had with them was the mid rise. I just don’t love low or mid rise pants on myself. If my pants aren’t high rise, I find myself pulling them up all day long. Last fall, Kelli introduced a high rise version of the Emerson pattern and I felt like jumping for joy. Sure, I could’ve tried to alter the original pattern with a high rise, but the fact that Kelli had already done the work and done it well made me add the pattern to my library. I got the pattern back in October and have spent literally months trying to settle on the perfect fabric. Last week I found the above inspiration photo on Pinterest and finally settled on a black and white Grid Plaid Tencel from StyleMaker Fabrics. These pants will be my true “fancy” pants and I cannot wait to get them started.

These color blocked Palo Jeans by Sarah of Wanderstitched are amazing!

(Stretch Goal) Project 4: Named Palo Jeans

You may remember that I fell head over heels for Breaking the Pattern by Named Clothing. I made the Kaste Dress from the book and already started tracing the Ruska Knot Dress. If I finish my other three pants in a timely manner, I’d love to use some of my leftover denim scraps to stitch up a pair of Palo Jeans. I’m drawn to the slightly edgy look that the color blocking gives these jeans and I think they’d be a welcome addition to my colorful wardrobe.

Week 1 sponsors: True Bias, Itch to Stitch, Named, Cashmerette, Helen’s Closet, Alina Design Co., Anna Allen

Well, there you have it. I want to sew about 20 pairs of pants this month, but 4 is a much more realistic goal for me at the moment. If you want to see more pants that are inspiring me at the moment, check out my Fancy Pants Pinterest board. The other ladies of Sew Fancy Pants have rounded up their inspiration as well so be sure to check out these posts written by Jennifer, Loni, and Katie.