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Sweaters for Spring

Hello! It’s officially spring here in Utah which usually means t-shirt weather one day and snow the next. I’m someone who is perpetually cold and pretty much wear long sleeves or jackets 9 months of the year. As such, I spent the first week of March sewing a crop of brightly colored sweaters. Ready to talk spring sweaters? Let’s do this.

Helen’s Closet Elliot Sweater

Last fall I was lucky enough to win a copy of the Elliot Sweater pattern. The PDF file sat on my computer just waiting for the right fabric to come along. Luckily, on Super Bowl Sunday (aka: Super Sew Sunday), Sewing Studio had a sale on several colors of bamboo/cotton french terry. I took it as a sign that my winter attire needed a bit of color and scooped some up in heather and ruby. The fabric is lightweight with just a slight amount of drape. Perfect for tees, lightweight sweaters, and cardigans. It arrived promptly but, due to other obligations, I had to wait to work with it until early March. Worth the wait.

I chose to sew up a size Small graded to a Medium at the hips. In order make long sleeves, I added 8 inches to the sleeve length. It still wasn’t quite enough length but, I didn’t have enough fabric to make the sleeves any longer. Instead, I added cuffs to give it the extra length. My only other deviation from the pattern was to sew the side slits closed two inches lower than instructed. With alterations ready, I got to sewing.


Like most knit tops, sewing the Elliot Sweater was quick and easy. It came together in an afternoon without mishaps. Upon finishing, I tried it on immediately. Despite having a purple prom dress and the fact that it’s my mother’s favorite color, I’ve never actually worn much purple. As such, I decided to give it a chance and am glad I did (My love of this sweater is what inspired me to choose the purple tencel used for my Jean Paul Coverall).The color is cheery enough for spring and the fabric is lightweight and just right for those in-between weather days.

Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater

I’ve wanted to make a tie front Jarrah Sweater since making my first one (here) in December. In fact, I ordered this grey and pink stripe cotton ribbing with a second Jarrah in mind. I visited Suppose and fell in love with this Pink Avalana Sweatshirt Fleece. It’s a deliciously soft cotton/polyester blend. I tried to resist its siren song but was powerless upon feeling its soft hand.


Like my first Jarrah, I used a size 4 at the bust and graded to a 6 at the hips, adding 1.5″ to the length of the front and back. This time I did add an extra 1″ to the sleeves for a total of 2.25″ of added length. These minor changes have me digging this second Jarrah even more than my first.

Did you notice my one mistake? That’s right. The tie is on the opposite side. I laid the pattern piece on the fabric right side down and didn’t notice until after cutting. Luckily, this pattern is one of those forgiving patterns that makes this mistake no big deal. Perhaps I’ll need to sew a third Jarrah to achieve Jarrah perfection. Now to find another lovely ribbing…

True Bias Nikko Top

Finally, my bamboo/cotton french terry Nikko Top. This is my third Nikko and I’m honestly wondering why I only own three. My other two Nikko tops are worn at least once a week during the winter months. The fabric used is the same ruby bamboo/cotton french terry mentioned earlier in this post.

The Nikko is one pattern to which I don’t need added length. My only fitting adjustment is using a size 4 at the bust and grading to a 10 at the hips. Cutting and sewing the pattern is just as quick and easy as the minimal alterations making this one of my most satisfying sews. It makes a strikingly bold combination when paired with my rainbow striped Persephone Pants, an outfit that feels just right for transitioning seasons.

Final Thoughts

Most of my winter wardrobe is either grey or black; possibly due to the way I usually feel about the winter months. Adding these three brightly colored sweaters to my cool weather wardrobe has made getting dressed much more fun this spring. In fact, I took all three of these tops on our recent trip to the Pacific Northwest because they seamlessly combined both comfort and style. Thanks to them, I plan to add more color to my winter wardrobe once fall rolls back around. Now, bring on all the summer sewing.

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Retro Inspired Tops with Indiesew

Hello! Today I’m sharing my second post as part of the Indiesew 2019 Blogger Team. After making four pairs of Persephone Pants over the last year, I decided that I needed some retro inspired tops to wear with them during spring and summer. With a couple yards of fabric, two great patterns, and a little bit of hacking, my retro wardrobe dreams are beginning to come true. Ready for all the details? Let’s do this.

Grainline Studio Lark Tee


The Grainline Studio Lark Tee has been a staple in my wardrobe since the pattern release in 2015. Over the years I’ve sewn every sleeve length and neckline option. This time, I wanted something a little different. Initially I had planned to make a button front hack, decided against it, and then thought I’d try a lettuce hem. I haven’t spent quite enough time practicing a lettuce hem to feel confident using it in an entire garment just yet. Hopefully with a bit more practice I’ll have a lettuce hemmed top before the end of the year. Eventually I settled on using a contrasting ribbing on the sleeves, neckline, and hem.

Fabric

This green stripe waffle knit (also available in ice, pink, and blue) has been on my radar for a while now. I could never quite decide on a suitable project. In the end I decided to just order the fabric and let it tell me what it wanted to become. The 100% cotton content makes it breathable and easy to wear. The only drawback to this fabric is the lack of spandex which means there isn’t great recovery once the fabric has been stretched. To remedy that and keep the shirt fitting in the neckline, I used a rayon/spandex rib knit for the bands. Together they make a vintage inspired tee that’s sure to keep me cool and put together all summer long.

Fitting and Alterations

I love a good loosely fitted tee. To achieve a looser fit with the Lark Tee I always sew a size 4 instead of the 2 (where my measurements land). With the sizing sorted, my modifications to achieve this look were quite simple. I chopped 1″ of the short sleeve length and added 1/2″ (finished) bands to the sleeve hems. Originally, I hadn’t planned for the bottom band and cut the shirt pattern as is. Upon trying it on, I didn’t love it so I chopped off 6.5″ from the bottom and added a 2″ band. That’s it. Easiest pattern hack ever. Perhaps next time I would chop an extra 1″ or 2″ off the bottom for a more cropped look. This version toes the line between cropped and regular length.


Construction

Nothing makes me feel more productive than sewing a banded tee or sweatshirt. Deciding on how to hack this tee took longer than the actual making of it. Once I made a decision, sewing this tee took me just over an hour (including interruptions to help or talk with my 5 year old). Such a quick, satisfying sew!

Seamly Jersey Popover

THIS. This Seamly Jersey Popover hack is what has me really feeling all the vintage, retro vibes. After pinning a couple of collared tees to my Apparel Sewing and Inspiration Pinterest board, I knew that I had to make something similar happen. I turned to Indiesew’s large pattern catalog to find a pattern match. When I saw the Jersey Popover, it felt serendipitous. This would be the simplest pattern “hack” I’d ever done.


Fabric

A retro inspired look called for a fabric with an equally retro appearance. The colors and texture of this Blue and White Stripe Pique Knit practically scream 1970’s dad style weekend wear. I’ll be honest and say that I had no idea what a pique knit (apologies to my college Textiles professor) was until I started googling and saw lots of polo shirts made from pique knits. Sold! This fabric had to be mine. I paired this pique knit with the same rayon/spandex rib knit mentioned above for a match made in Brady Bunch heaven.

Fitting and Alterations

According to the sizing chart, my measurements fell right between an extra small and a small. After looking at the finished measurements, I decided to size down to the extra small for a closer fit. With the size determined, I made two small alterations to achieve this hack. First, I cut off the bottom curve for a straight hem. Second, I cut the sleeves 4″ above the sleeve lengthen/shorten line. That’s it. No intense “hacking” necessary.

Construction

Sewing the Jersey Popover was simultaneously simpler and more difficult than I thought. The instructions were great and easily guided me through each step of the process. My difficulties lie in the rib knit used for the plackets and collar. Topstitching it was not an easy task and I opted out of topstitching the collar as a result. I attempted it a couple of times and just couldn’t get a nice looking topstitch on the rib knit. My other issue with the rib knit was that it’s quite thick where several layers are sewn together around the plackets. With some grading and trimming I was able to achieve a passable result.

This was also my first time sewing a knit placket. I’ve sewn plenty of woven plackets in the past, but sewing one in woven is a whole new ball game. With a little bit of patience, Interfacing, and my trusty seam ripper, I made it work. Next time I think I would just use a self fabric instead of the ribbing for plackets with less bulk. Overall, it’s not the worst first attempt so I’m just proud to be honing a new skill.

Conclusions

When my husband saw these outfits he said, “Oooh! very retro.” and then proceeded to ask me if I was headed to play tennis at the country club. Those two responses are a good indicator that I’ve achieved my styling goal with these tops. I mean, who doesn’t want to dress like they’re about to hop in the station wagon and head to the country club? Ok, maybe I’m the only one with that specific style goal in mind. Over the coming months I plan to pair these with my Burnside Bibs and Phillipa Pants in addition to the Persephone Pants seen here. Perhaps I’ll even make a Monarch Jacket to wear over them? hmm… Now, if I start describing things as groovy, someone please snap me back to reality. Until then, I’ll be living in a vintage inspired world of my own creation.

Disclosure: These fabrics and the Jersey Popover pattern were provided to me by Indiesew in exchange for this post. All opinions are my own.

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Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit

Hello! What a week it’s been! I’ve been hosting Nicole’s Birthday Jumpsuit Bash over on Instagram and it’s felt like a whirlwind of giveaways, jumpsuits, and sewing. Yesterday was my actual birthday and I wanted something extra special to wear for a night out. After hemming and hawing for a few weeks about the perfect outfit, I saw Sweet Shard’s Sirocco Jumpsuit Review. I was sold. The Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit would be this year’s birthday suit.

Fabric Choice

Once my pattern decision was made, I set out to scour the internet for the perfect fabric. Honestly, I didn’t have to look far because I had seen Tessa of SewSpoke (on Instagram) make a stunning jacket using a Lady McElroy floral scuba. I went to her source, La Mercerie, and decided this Bold Botanical Scuba was the one. I purchased 2.5 yards and anxiously awaited its arrival. I usually steer clear of anything containing polyester (except for swim) but make the occasional exception for vibrant scuba knits and a beautifully printed polyester crepe. When this fabric arrived, I knew it was worth making an exception. The dimensionality and details of this fabric are nearly impossible to capture in a photo. It’s beautiful and comfortable although the polyester content will restrict this to a spring/fall or evening outfit as I would wither from the heat wearing a polyester jumpsuit in the summer.

Construction and Pattern Details

The Sirocco Jumpsuit features a crossover front, large pockets, a pleated bodice, and a small waistband. There are no closures making it a fairly quick sew. I printed and taped the pattern on Tuesday, cut it out on Wednesday morning, and did most of the sewing on Wednesday afternoon. I did spend about an hour yesterday morning ripping out a bit of the front waistband seam and adjusting the front pant darts for a better fit (they were angling out odd; something I will explain when I discuss fitting in the next section). I spent more time adjusting the fit (due to my own mistake) than actually sewing this jumpsuit. Next time I make this pattern, I’m assuming that it should come together easily in an afternoon or evening.

Fitting

Ah, fitting: The reason I sew and also my least favorite part of the sewing process. First, I made my usual adjustments: Added 1/2″ to the bodice and rise and another 1″ to the leg length. According to the Sirocco measurement chart, my bust is a size 36 with my waist and hips being a size 42. I was nervous about the negative ease in the waistband and the scuba not having enough stretch. As such I decided to size up to a 38 in the bust graded to a 44 at the hips and grading back down to a 36 in the legs. This turned out to be wholly unnecessary.


Once I sewed up the side seams, I found that the jumpsuit was huge! I started taking in the side seams 1/4″ at a time until I achieved the correct fit. The fit was better after taking in the first 1/4″ but still looking proportionally wrong for my body. Again, I started at the top of the side seam tapering to another 1/4″ in (for a total of a 7/8″ seam allowance) at the waist and hips. In the end, I also took an extra 2″ out of the legs (1 and 3/8″ seam allowances at the leg side seam and inseam) before calling the fit good.

Overall, I was happy with the fit but left with one dilemma: the front pant pleats were angling out towards my hips creating a triangle shape. It was not a shape I personally wanted so I set out to fix it. I determined that all of my tinkering with the fit had messed with the position of the pleats. In an effort to remedy this, I ripped out the waist seam just above each of the front pant pleats and pulled the corners of the pleats up into the seam until the pleats were straight down instead of angled out (the corner of the pleats nearest the pocket openings ended up pulled up into the seam by about 1″). With that minor fix. My birthday outfit was complete.

Final Thoughts

After wearing my Sirocco for a night out I think it’s safe to say that it was a hit. I got quite a few compliments, was extremely comfortable, and was able to fully enjoy the chicken and fries I ordered at the comedy club without the worry of my pants feeling too tight. That is always a win. I’d like to try this pattern again in something with maybe a cotton or rayon content for more breathability in the summer. My one qualm is that the waistband does pull a bit in some parts due to the weight of the fabric. I’m wondering if securing it with clear elastic (like the waistband on a knit dress) would help with this issue at all. If you have any tips for that I’d love to hear them. Overall, the pattern was great and worked well with my chosen fabric. It’s certainly one I would recommend and plan to try again.

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Jean Paul Coverall by Ready to Sew

Hello! If you follow me over on Instagram (@nf_merritts), you may know that I’m celebrating all week with Nicole’s Birthday Jumpsuit Bash. I’ve loved the idea of jumpsuits for years but, wasn’t able to wear ready to wear jumpsuits without serious discomfort due to my long torso. Two years ago I sewed my first jumpsuit (an Anza Jumpsuit) and fell in love. Since then my handmade jumpsuit collection has grown by a few each year. This Ready to Sew Jean Paul Coverall is the fifth addition to my growing collection. I was enamored with the pattern upon its release last year and have been patiently biding my time until I could make a spring/summer appropriate version. The time has come and I’ll probably live in these for the foreseeable future. Are you ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Fabric Choice

When planning this make I had a vision of spring and summer days spent outside with my son. As such, I needed a fabric that would be light and comfortable. After a bit of deliberation and some help from Erin (@erinalwayssews) I settled on this Tencel Twill in Ginger from Imagine Gnats (they were kind enough to provide this fabric for me as part of my Birthday Jumpsuit Bash). The fabric turned out to be everything I was hoping and more. The fabric has beautiful drape, is slightly easier to sew than rayon, and the color is even lovelier in person. All the online raving about tencel twill is true. This was my third time working with the substrate and it’s a dream every time.

Pattern Details and Construction

The Jean Paul Coverall and its expansion are jam packed with interesting details. In fact, this was probably one of the most time consuming clothing items I’ve ever sewn. There are large pockets on front and back, button plackets, a front and back pleat detail, front fly, ample topstitching, a drawstring waist (from the expansion),and a collar. Making this was equivalent to the work it takes to make both jeans and a button up shirt. The effort was 100% worth it as I plan to never take this off.


While this jumpsuit was a ton of work, it was also a satisfying sew. Topstitching is one of my favorite sewing tasks and I got a decent amount of practice as almost every detail is carefully topstitched. It also made fixing my mistakes take a bit longer. I got cozy with the seam ripper a few times redoing the collar and fixing the button plackets. I’ve made at least 30 collars and button plackets over the years and occasionally still make mistakes. Honestly, neither looked awful before but they weren’t quite to my standard either. I debated leaving my mistakes but with a project this time consuming, it was worth the extra minutes to redo those imperfections and love the final product.

Speaking of imperfections, there is one on this jumpsuit that I couldn’t correct. That issue is the twisting on my right leg. My left leg is just fine without any real twisting so I know that the issue lies with me and not with the pattern. Twisting usually occurs in pants when the legs weren’t cut on the proper grain. As careful as I try to be this does occasionally happen when cutting in a double layer. Note to self: Always cut pants in a single layer. The issue wasn’t noticed until one of my later try-ons and by then it was too late to do much about it beyond completely scrapping those pieces. It doesn’t affect the comfort of this outfit and likely won’t be noticed by anyone who doesn’t sew so I won’t let it bother me too much and just chalk it up to a lesson learned.

Fitting

According to the sizing chart, my measurements put me at a size 38 bust, and size 42 at the waist and hips. This made grading fairly simple. Just below the bust darts I began grading the pattern to a 42 waist. On the pattern pieces it seemed like a steep angle but ended up looking just fine in the final product. Other fitting adjustments I made were adding 1/2″ to the rise on the front and back pants and 2″ to the length. I also added 1/2″ in length to both the front and back bodice pieces. Being able to add length is what drew me to sewing my own jumpsuits. Nobody deserves to be left out of jumpsuit wearing because their torso is longer, shorter, rounder, or thinner than the “standard” sizing for ready to wear clothing.


One last fitting modification was tapering the legs a bit. My calves and ankles are a good 2 sizes smaller than my waist and hips. It used to be something that made me quite self conscious as I was sometimes teased about walking on toothpick legs. Once I became an adult and realized a person’s body shape or size has exactly zero to do with thier worth, those kind of comments stopped bothering me. Ok, back to the leg tapering. I first basted the pant sides as is. Honestly it didn’t look bad but was a bit frumpy due to my proportions. Starting just under the front pockets I ended up tapering the seam until I had taken it in an extra 1/2″ at the bottom of the legs. This extra 1/2″ taken out of a seam meant that the bottom of the legs were taken in by about 2″. The taper isn’t so extreme as to make the pants uncomfortable but, just enough to feel proportional to my body.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I’m happy with this make although there is some noted room for improvement in my next version. Next time I’ll budget more time for the construction, cut the leg pieces in a single layer and pay more careful attention to the fly (it looks nice, just not quite perfect). Next time I sew this pattern I plan to make the dress version possibly in a rayon/linen blend. Although I honestly wouldn’t be opposed to sewing this same version in a rainbow of tencel twill (I have my eyes on this Mallard color from Imagine Gnats). After sewing for years and making a myriad of projects, it’s nice to make something that humbles me again. Sometimes I overestimate my skill and underestimate the time something will take. This was one of those times. This project doesn’t actually take significant skill, just a willingness to slow down and take your time while sewing. My mistakes don’t make me like this garment any less, in fact, they make me thankful for the lessons learned and I still plan to wear the heck out of this thing.