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Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress Tour

Disclosure: Although the pattern was given to me for participation in this tour, all words and opinions are my own.

Clearly I can’t get enough of Ace and Jig inspired makes because here’s my second one in less than a week (Check out my A+J inspired Zadie Jumpsuit here). Joining the Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress Tour was the perfect opportunity to sew up my own version of a dress I’d been ogling for months (use code ‘madridtour’ for 25% off any Coffee and Thread patterns through June 28th). This required a bit of hacking but, I was up to the challenge. Are you ready for it?

Inspiration

Last fall I was watching Ace and Jig’s Instagram stories when my jaw dropped at upon seeing this version of their Ellis Dress. The pattern mixing and play on scale had me instantly hooked. I saved the photo, vowing to someday make one of my own. Time went by and I had all but forgotten about the dress until I saw Olga’s release of the Madrid Dress. Seeing the pattern reminded me of my dream dress and reignited the fire.

The Madrid Dress pattern isn’t an exact match for the A + J dress, but comes pretty darn close. There are two main differences:

  1. Madrid Dress is a faux wrap style while the A + J dress is a true wrap.
  2. Madrid Dress pattern actually has three tiers for the maxi length (hack details coming later in this post) while the A + J dress has 4.

Difference #1 was actually preferable for me as true wrap dresses sometimes leave me feeling like I’m just one wardrobe malfunction away from accidentally exposing everything to the world. Difference #2 was an easy fix that just required a bit of math which we’ll get to real soon. Overall, they’re pretty similar and the Madrid made for a great starting point.

Fabric

After singing the praises of Anna Maria Horner’s Loominous fabric lines in my last post, I’ll just cut to the chase here and say these 100% cotton yarn dyed wovens are incredible. Dreams are made of these fabrics. This dress uses two fabrics from her Loominous II line. The first is Dotted Line in Cobalt Blue (purchased from Graciebelle Fabrics on Etsy) which has black and pale coral lines stitched into the fabric. This specific fabric was actually the inspiration behind the hand embroidered stitches I added to the back of my Hampton Jean Jacket (here). The second fabric is Tribe in Algae (purchased from Hawthorne Threads), a mint green with stripes of cobalt, forest, and bits of pale pink woven throughout. Together they mimic the play on scale and bold fabric choices included in the inspiration dress.

The only thing that isn’t ideal about these two fabrics is the fact that they’re only 44″ wide. The narrow width meant that I had to order 9 yards of fabric (5 of the blue, 4 of the mint) to determine that I’d have enough of each. Honestly, the price of ordering 9 yards of fabric kept me from making this dress sooner. I hemmed and hawed over spending the money on a dress that likely wouldn’t get as much wear as most practical items in my wardrobe. I spent hours scouring Etsy and online fabric stores looking for the absolute best deals on these two fabrics and was lucky enough to find both for less than $10/yd. In the end, I decided that the dress wasn’t worth making at all if it wasn’t something I loved and that made the cost worth it. This time I threw caution to the wind and sewed a little frosting just for the fun of it.

Sizing

According to the size chart, my measurements fell into a 4 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. I started with a size 4 at the bust and graded to an 8 at the waist and below. There’s enough ease in the hips that I didn’t have to worry about grading out to a 10. I also added 1/2″ to the bodice length. As a side note here, the front bodice facing is missing a lengthen/shorten line. add this in by lining your facing piece up with your front bodice piece and marking the lengthen/shorten line. Then add the same amount of length to your facing piece. Since the rest of the sizing alterations happened in the hacking of the skirt, it’s finally time to get down to it.

Hacking the Skirt

Since the maxi version of the Madrid dress has three tiers and I wanted four, it was time to do a bit of math. My exact calculations here are based on a size 8 with a skirt length of 45″, I’ll include the formulas however, so you can do the math for your own custom size.

  1. Determine your desired length by measuring from your waist to the floor (mine was 45″).
  2. Divide the desired length by 4. (Desired length/4) Mine ended being 45/4 coming out to approximately 11.25″ per tier.
  3. Add 3/4″ to the desired tier length to account for 3/8″ seam allowances on top and bottom. I ended up with a total length of 12″ for each tier.
  4. Keep the width of the first tier as drafted, with the only change being to cut off length to fit your new desired tier length.
  5. Measure the width of the 1st tier. To account for seam allowances remove 3/4″ from that width. (1st tier width – 3/4″ = finished 1st tier width). Take the first tier width and multiply this by 1.5. This will give you the finished width of your 2nd tier. Divide the finished width by the width of your fabric. This will tell you how many (desired tier length) strips to cut. Add 3/4″ to the width of each strip to account for seam allowances.
  6. Follow the steps in #5 above to calculate for the 3rd tier, this time using the finished width of your 2nd tier multiplied by 1.5. Again, divide this number by your fabric width to determine the number of needed (desired tier length strips). Don’t forget to add in 3/4″ to the width of each strip for seam allowances.
  7. Again, follow the steps in #5 above to calculate for the 4th tier, this time using the finished width of your 3rd tier multiplied by 1.5. Again, divide this number by your fabric width to determine the number of needed (desired tier length strips). Don’t forget to add in 3/4″ to the width of each strip for seam allowances.
  8. It seams like a lot, but once you get the hang of it, the math is pretty simple. For reference, here’s what I cut out for my size 8 tiers: 2nd tier- 2 strips 12″x 46 and 1/8″ (the blue had to be cut down the length of the fabric instead of the width), 3rd tier- 4 strips 12″ x 34 and 3/4″, 4th tier- 3 strips 12″ by 69 and 7/8″ or 6 strips 12″ by 34 and 3/4″.

There you have it. Three tiers have now become four. Follow construction as instructed in the pattern directions (I did end up attaching the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th tiers to one another before attaching them to the finished bodice and first tier).

Final Thoughts

Gosh, it feels delightful to have a dress fit for twirling. It’s been a bit since I made a truly twirly dress and my inner 10 year old girl was squealing with joy while taking these photos. Gathering took approximately a million years but was 100% worth it. I’ve also had my fill of gathering for a bit so I’ll probably stay away from it for a few weeks at least.

Overall, I’m thrilled that this dress turned out how I envisioned. This is not always the case and I took a big gamble purchasing 9 yards of fabric for something that I wasn’t sure would work. My version is fuller than the Ace and Jig inspiration dress but, that just ups it’s twirling factor which is fine by me. Will I make this hack again, probably not because I don’t need more than one bright, fabulously twirly, pioneer chic dress in my wardrobe. Am I satisfied with the end result? Yes, 100%! That’s all I got for you today. Hope you’ve enjoyed reading about this dress as much as I enjoy wearing it!

Want to see more Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress inspiration? Be sure to check out the tour on Instagram by following the hashtags #ctmadriddress and #madriddresstour.

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Ace and Jig Inspired Zadie Jumpsuit

Oooooookay, get ready for a photo overload because this Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit is the most “me” thing I’ve ever made and I’m in love. I mean, the woman in these photos is who I am (style-wise) in my dreams. Just a jumpsuit wearing, hat sporting, smiling woman casually strolling through the great outdoors. Forgive me if I can’t adequately communicate my feelings in this post. Hopefully the photos will fill in where my words fail.

Inspiration

Ace and Jig is a company that’s inspiring not only for their designs, and unique fabrics but also for their core values. I’m sure they’re already on your radar, but if not, check them out. While I adore the company, I know I’m not alone in saying that I just don’t have upwards of $300 to spend on one item of clothing that may or may not fit my unique body type. Considering my height of 5’10” and hips that are 3-4 sizes larger than my bust, a well-fitting ready-to-wear jumpsuit is something I’ve never found. Last year when browsing Pinterest, I came across this Ace and Jig Wrap Jumper and knew it was something I wanted to recreate for my wardrobe. The comparison below illustrates how differences between these two jumpsuits give them a similar vibe while still maintaining their own unique features. We’ll call them jumpsuit cousins.

Inspiration image found here

Fabric

It’s no secret that I’m a bit of an Anna Maria Horner superfan (just click the Anna Maria Horner tag at the bottom of this post and you’ll see what I mean). While I’ve pretty much never met an AMH fabric I didn’t like, her Loominous and Loominous II lines will forever be favorites. Both lines consist of multiple patterns made with 100% cotton yarn-dyed woven fabric. Green is my preferred color and I love the dimension the mustard and teal dots add to the forest green background. In order to make this jumpsuit, I purchased 5 yards of Slightly in Forest from Flying Bulldogs on Etsy. That amount turned out to be plenty and when all was said and done, I had about 1 yard left over. Now, what should I do with that extra yard?

Sizing and Alterations

This version is my second Zadie Jumpsuit after making a wearable muslin from a rayon poplin. My first version included all my regular alterations and kept the wide legs as drafted. I made a few changes to this second version so let’s get to it.

As far as sizing for this version goes, I chose a size 8 at the chest and graded to a 12 at the hips and below. I added 1/2″ of length to the bodice and 4 inches of length to the legs. Next time I’ll likely add an extra inch for a total of 5 inches added to the legs.

To achieve my desired look, I also tapered the the legs. Starting just below the crotch curve, I slightly angled each side seam until I’d taken them in by 2 and 5/8″ on each side of both the front and back pieces (that’s a total of 10 and 1/2″ taken out of each leg at the bottom near the hem).

Construction

The only closure on the Zadie Jumpsuit is the tie front, making construction quick and mostly painless. This was sewn in small increments over about three days’ time. The only difficulty I encountered were a few spots on my bias binding where I didn’t quite catch the back side. I simply fixed those two areas (each shorter than an inch) and didn’t even bother unpicking the first set of stitches because they’re hardly noticeable. If someone is getting that close to my chest, an extra row of stitching will be the least of their worries.

My only change to the construction was in the hem finishing. The pattern instructs that the sleeve hems are just turned in 1cm which would leave a raw or exposed serged edge on the inside of the hems. Instead I chose to turn the hems inside by 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ so the serged sleeve edges are completely enclosed. This is simply personal preference, not a necessity. I just thought it provided a more professional looking finish.

Conclusions

The Zadie Fever is a sewing community phenomenon for good reason. Both of my versions are the most comfortable woven jumpsuits in my decent sized jumpsuit collection. The pattern is a quick, simple sew with big impact results. If I make this pattern again, I may try to convert the pleats in the back bodice and back pant into darts. I’m not in love with the bulk of the pleats but, it’s not a deal breaker for me either. These jumpsuits will no doubt be worn to death over the summer months. I’m also looking forward to working them into my wardrobe year-round. With those thoughts, I’ll conclude today’s jumpsuit lovefest. Now, I’m off to work on my next project which also includes AMH Loominous fabric and inspiration from Ace and Jig. See you Monday with the details.