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True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper

Hello! Today’s post has been months in the making and I couldn’t be more excited to finally share. I was fortunate enough to be a tester for the True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper. For obvious reasons, I chose to sew the romper view. This romper was sewn way back in February, hung in my closet waiting for a final hem until May , and was finally photographed at the beginning of this month. Was it worth the wait? To me, absolutely! Let’s get to the details.

Fabric

I purchased this teal sand washed rayon from Raspberry Creek Fabrics over a year ago, intending to use it for another project. Instead it turned out to be the perfect fabric for a Shelby. It’s soft, lightweight, and has a price that can’t be beat (especially when a project requires several yards).

Sizing and Alterations

(please note: This was my tester version so some aspects of the final pattern have been changed)

I’ve used several True Bias patterns and generally found Kelli’s measurement charts to be accurate so I chose my sizing based on the chart. For this version I used a 4 at the bust, graded to an 8 at the waist, and a 10 at the hips. I added 1″ to the bodice length (which I don’t actually think was necessary here) and 2″ to the length of the legs. Next time (which I’m planning on), I will address the tightness in the arms which is likely due to my need for a full bicep adjustment and not a pattern issue. This particular fabric is actually quite forgiving so the sleeves are still plenty comfortable as-is despite looking quite tight.

My one other alteration was adding inseam pockets. I drew my own pockets and accidentally made them a bit small for my liking. Next time I’ll make them bigger and place them about 2 inches higher. They add some bulk at the hips, which is likely why pockets aren’t included in the pattern. If you’re a pocket lover, don’t let that deter you from the pattern as adding inseam pockets is a simple alteration with plenty of great resources available to walk you through the process.

Construction

I think it’s been mentioned in previous posts but, I’m not actually a quick sewer. Although my efficiency has improved over the years, there are just some things that can’t be rushed. Assembling the pattern took a good 45 minutes, cutting it took about 1 hour, and sewing took approximately 6 hours. The most difficult part of construction was attaching the facing without stretching the neckline or center front pieces. As long as you’re not using a terribly difficult fabric; it’s a feat that’s mildly simple to achieve. With that, I would recommend this pattern to an advanced beginner or intermediate sewist.

Final Thoughts

Why has a pattern like this just now entered my life? This Shelby Romper combines the breezy feel and feminine style of a dress with the practicality of pants. I wore it to church a couple weeks ago and have never felt more comfortable while teaching a class of three year olds. This was perfect for keeping me covered while allowing for the movement and fun that comes with entertaining young children. Mothers of my class gave compliments on the style and practical use of such a garment. It’s gold, I tell you, pure gold.

Wearing and writing about my Shelby has me daydreaming of my next version. I’m thinking knee length with some sort of hacked long sleeve. Paired with booties and possibly tights it would be a 90’s dream come true. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m off to source the perfect fabric…

Thanks for reading!

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Suki Robe and Arenite Pants with Indiesew

Disclosure: The fabric for my pants and the Suki Robe pattern were provided to me by Indiesew in exchange for this post. All opinions are my own.

Hello! Today I’m back with my third post as part of the 2019 Indiesew Blogger team. Just now I realized that all of my Indiesew posts have somewhat of a “something old, something new” theme. In each one, I’ve shared a previously sewn pattern and a new to me pattern. It’s a fairly true reflection of my sewing practice as it’s never simply one or the other. There’s a feeling of calm and comfort that comes from knowing a pattern inside and out whose only rival for my attention is the excitement of beginning a new project. Today’s contenders are the Sew Liberated Arenite Pants and the Helen’s Closet Suki Robe. I’ve styled them together, separately, and brought in some reinforcements from previous posts to give them each fighting chance.

Arenite Pants

Styled with an Archer Button Up (from this post), clogs, and my current favorite hat, these slim hack Arenite Pants are ready to put their best foot forward (or would it be leg in this case??).

Fabric

The moment I saw this Tencel Jacquard in Olive Green (also available in Icy Blue) posted on Indiesew’s Instagram grid (this post), I knew it had to be mine. Tencel, texture, and green? Sold! I was not disappointed when it arrived at my doorstep a week later. It’s buttery soft with a fluid drape and dreamy texture. As per usual, I demanded my husband feel the luxury of this fabric and he described it as his perfect blanket. He was not wrong. The light weight of the fabric combines with the texture to make it feel simultaneously cool and cozy. I’m seriously considering ordering 1.5 yards, hemming or binding the fabric, and using it as a lightweight throw blanket in my living room. The only caveat? It does shrink slightly as expected with the fabric content. The fabric is 53″ wide. After washing I measured it at 48″ wide. It’s not recommended to dry Tencel in a dryer but, I always do.

Sizing, Alterations, and Construction

Combining all these aspects here because I’ve blogged about this pattern before and you can click here to read my previous Arenite Pants post. Just as last time I sewed these pants, I used the Arenite Pants “slim” hack that Meg of Sew Liberated (@sewliberated) has detailed in her Instagram story highlights. Again, I used a size 6 with all the same alterations detailed in my last post. My only extra changes here were moving the pockets up an extra 1″ and taking in the ankles an extra 1/8″ seam allowance (for a total of 3/4″ SA). This removed a total of 3/4″ from the width of the ankles for a slightly slimmer look.

Construction was quick and easy. Again, I opted to forego the felled seams and simply stitched, then serged and topstitched them. They still feel plenty secure. Without felled seams, the pants took most of an afternoon to construct.

Suki Robe

While a newcomer in today’s battle of the sewing projects, the Suki Robe is ready to give the competition a wake up call. In order to shine, this robe prefers to stand on its own. This means that for the five minutes we took these photos, I was wearing just my underclothing and a robe in a public park, so um, you’re welcome?

Fabric

This fabric “Lillium” was designed by colorful creative, handmade hustler, and Sew Fancy Pants co-conspirator, Katie Kortman for D&H Fabrics. Both Katie and Tammy of D&H have been great friends and supporters over the last year so when I had the chance to support both of them by purchasing this lovely fabric it was a no-brainer. The fabric is a rayon poplin with great drape and a silky hand.

Sizing and Alterations

I chose to sew the mid-calf length and selected a size medium based on my measurements. My only alterations to the pattern were made out of a desire to fit it onto a smaller than recommended amount of fabric (that was also directional) and not actual necessity. I had 2.5 yards of this print and didn’t want any of the flowers to be upside down so I had to get creative with pattern placement. In the end, I removed 1.5″ from the mid-calf length and 1″ from the waist tie length to make everything fit. Neither made too much difference in the final fit so I decided I could do without the extra length.

Construction

Sewing this Suki Robe took about double the time it took to sew the Arenite Pants. While somewhat time consuming, the construction wasn’t terribly difficult and something that can be achieved by either the intermediate/advanced or beginner sewist. Helen’s directions include beginner friendly options for the sleeve bands and collar or more advanced methods with enclosed seams in the those areas. Since I’ve been sewing regularly for about a decade, I’d consider myself somewhat of an advanced sewist and chose the enclosed collar and sleeve bands. The end result was a well-constructed robe of which I can be proud.

Final Scoring

Okay, okay, the truth is: my handmade clothes and the patterns used for them feel a little like children. I don’t love the older one any less just because a newer one came along. They’ve each got qualities that make them unique while not diminishing what makes the other special. I can’t decide between them so I’ll lay out a few categories and let you do the decision making. (Just for clarification, if I ever had more than one actual child, I would not encourage strangers on the internet to vote for their favorite. ) The categories are: Fabric Use, Versatility, and Construction Time.

Fabric Use

Both my Arenite Pants slim hack and Suki Robe used almost exactly 2.5 yards of fabric with almost no useable scraps left.

Versatility

The Arenite Pants will only ever be pants but, can be styled for outdoor wear year-round. They pair well with a tee shirt as lounge pants or with a dressier top as an outfit for wearing pretty much anywhere.

The Suki Robe is something I only envision wearing outside of the house in fair weather. During the summer it would make a great swim cover up and I love the idea of it as a light layer for cool evenings. However, it will likely get almost daily use as a house robe year-round. This is the first robe I’ve made and I just didn’t know how much I needed one for daily wear until now.

Construction Time

My Arenite pants came together in a flash (just over 3 hours). However, if I had felled the seams as the pattern directs, they likely would’ve taken twice as long.

The Suki Robe was a semi time consuming project for me. It took part of one evening as well as a good chunk of one day. If I had to guess, I’d say it took about 7-8 hours to sew.

There you have it. Do you have a winner in your mind? Are you team ‘Something Old’ (Arenite Pants) or team ‘Something New’ (Suki Robe)? Feel free to cast your vote in the comments section.

Thanks for reading!

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Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit

I don’t know what it’s been like for you but, summer has had a bit of a slow start here in Utah. The temperatures have seemed cooler than normal for the last couple of months. This last week, all that changed. The summer heat has arrived. Now I’m once again ready to sew all the swimsuits. My family had a neighborhood/church swim party to attend this week and I used it as an excuse/deadline to finally sew up a Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit. The View A with tie back has been tempting me since seeing Sara’s earlier this year. Alright, let’s get into it.

Fabric

In May, I purchased this Ribbed Swim Tricot in Spruce from Blackbird Fabrics. I have a thing for emerald and forest greens (see my Zadie Jumpsuit or Joy Jacket for further proof) and was drawn to the texture of the ribbing. Once the fabric arrived in the mail, I knew I’d made the right choice. The color was spot on and the texture gives it a little more heftiness and security than a regular swim knit. Sewing it was made easier because the extra thickness stopped the fabric from getting eaten by my machine which occasionally happens with swim. It’s a real dream and I’m using all my self control to stop myself from ordering it in additional colors.

Sizing and Alterations

I think this is my favorite part of sewing a custom swimsuit. There’s something powerful in taking your body and its measurements back from the ready to wear industry and making something that fits just right. Swimsuit shopping used to leave me feeling odd and unnatural. Swimsuit sewing leaves me feeling empowered.

Following the Cottesloe size chart, my measurements put me in a 4 bust with a 12 at the waist and hip. Taking this into account, I used a 4 until just below the bust and then graded out to a 12 for the rest of the suit. As usual, a little extra length was needed so I added 1/2″ in length to the front and back straps and 1″ to the length at the lengthen/shorten line. The last adjustment I made was adding a little big more coverage for the booty. I added about 1/2″ to the back leg openings, tapering that amount to meet the seam allowances on either side. With those alterations done, I was ready to sew.

Construction

The suit came together pretty quickly once I started sewing. With my pieces already cut (completed the previous night), I was able to sew the suit together in a day. This day included regular mom duties and a family lunch date. If I had sewn all at once, it probably would’ve taken 2-3 hours.

I opted to add foam cups and fully line the whole suit. When I’m nearly nude in public, I tend to prefer the security that extra layer of fabric provides (even if it’s a false sense of security). There are instructions for both a fully lined suit or a shelf bra in the pattern. During the construction I had one momentary panic when I noticed the cups seemed to be sewn in lopsided. I had carefully tried on and pinned the cups and couldn’t figure out how I’d gone wrong. Upon trying on the suit, I noticed that things didn’t look lopsided at all. Turns out my chest is just a bit more asymmetrical than I’d thought. Just one of the many perks of sewing; I learn new things about my body all the time.

The simplicity of the suit and straightforward instructions made this a joy to sew. This was the third suit I’ve sewn for myself and one of the easiest. While my skills have certainly improved since my first suit in 2015 (that was NOT easy), I would credit some of that ease to a perfectly simple pattern. If you’re a beginner, this pattern is a great place to start.

Final Thoughts

After testing it out for an evening, I have no complaints. The suit held up, kept me covered, and made me feel great. The only thing I would change if making this suit a second time would be moving the back ties up about an inch. I inserted them a bit low. I have a feeling this suit will have a place in my summer wardrobe for years to come. Having a good, basic, one-piece will never go out of style. My next swim venture will hopefully be making some swim separates out of my leftover fabric. If you have favorite two piece swim patterns, I’d love your suggestions.

Thanks for reading! Now, please get back to thoroughly enjoying your summer. I know I will!