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Clementine Top and Crew Trousers

Disclosure: The pattern for the Clementine Top was given to me in exchange for a review and I received the Crew Trousers in exchange for my participation in the pattern test (no obligation to promote). All opinions are honest and my own.

Hello all! Today I’ve got a couple of my latest makes to share with you: The Forget Me Not Patterns Clementine Top and the newly released Chalk and Notch Crew Trousers. Combined these two make a look that I’d describe as business casual. My current work environment (as a seamstress and SAHM), only requires that I’m clothed and looking alive for daily activities. However, if I did work outside the home, I have a feeling that this is how I’d want to represent myself. Maybe I’ll pull this out for date night instead. Ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Clementine Top

Fabric

I purchased one yard of this marbled scuba knit from Stylemaker Fabrics (sold out but check out their current selection of scuba knits here) in January 2018. Originally, I intended for it to be a Lodo hacked into a top. It never happened and this fabric languished on my shelf for 18+ months. Fast forward to a few weeks ago when it dawned on me that this scuba would be the perfect pairing for the Forget Me Not Clementine Top. The weight of the scuba gives a modern, stiff drape to the cowl and highlights the structure of the princess seams. Match made in sewing heaven.

Sizing

Based on my measurements, I chose to cut and sew a size 36. Technically, my bust fell in a 34 but, I chose to sew a 36 for simplicity and the sizing turned out great. The photos here don’t highlight it quite as well as I’d like but the fitting on the back is especially fantastic. The princess seams make it fit like a glove with no swayback drooping. My only alteration was adding 1/2″ to the top length at the hems. Other than that, I sewed the pattern up as-is.

Construction

The Clementine pattern instructions were clear and easy to follow. Clear instructions combined with a cooperative fabric made this a quick and simple sew. I spent one afternoon on assembly, then hemmed the top and sleeves the next morning. The cowl neck and princess seams added enough detail to make the sewing process satisfying as well.

Crew Trousers

Fabric

A few weeks ago, along with ladies in my local sewing group the “Salty Sewists,” I made a little afternoon trip to visit Harmony in Provo, Utah. It’s a darling store filled with fabric, yarn, and all the best little gifts packed into a small pioneer age house. Oh, the charm! I picked up this coral pink Tencel Twill and knew it would make the perfect pants. The fabric is opaque, has great drape, AND the front side has a brushed texture that feels suede-like. Working with it was fairly easy, although I did have one spot on the waistband where I accidentally stretched the fabric, creating some small bubbles along the waistband. Luckily, that’s covered by a pretty bow so it’s not really a big deal.

Sizing and Alterations

Over the last few years, I’ve sewn nearly every Chalk and Notch women’s pattern. You could say I’m a bit of a fan. It also means that I trust in Gabriela’s ability to get sizing and measurements right. Based on the measurement chart and Gabriela’s recommendation, I chose a size 10 for the waist and hips then graded to a 6 at the thighs and legs. I also ended up removing about 1/2″ of the width around the ankles for a slightly larger taper. My other adjustments were standard for me: 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, 1″ length added at the above knee lengthen line, and 1/2″ length added at the below knee lengthen line. Just going to take a minute here and stress the importance of lengthen lines above AND below the knee on pants. Everyone’s legs are proportioned differently. My calf length is likely not the same as another person of my height and may be the same as someone shorter or taller. If you are thinking about designing a pants pattern, it will make everyone’s life easier when you include both. There we go. Off my soapbox now.

Construction

Despite sewing 90% of my wardrobe over the last several years, I wouldn’t consider myself a quick sewist. Many experienced sewists can whip up a tee shirt in an hour. Often, it takes me two. Pants are no exception. I’ve made probably 10 pairs over the last year and still find myself taking my time to get each step finished well. With that in mind, sewing these pants took me somewhere between 6-7 hours total.

I sewed these over the course of a day while also taking care of my son, getting him off to school, picking him up, cooking dinner, cleaning dishes, and while sitting across the table from my mother (so I might have gotten distracted with chatting). As per usual, Gabriela’s instructions were concise and included plenty of illustrations. This made inserting a lapped zipper (the hardest part: which is totally doable for an advanced beginner) a breeze.

My favorite detail is in the pocket construction. The pockets are shaped and sewn so that they’re secured at the top of the center front. This makes them stay nicely in place and keeps them from flopping around inside the pants. I didn’t know this was something I needed in trousers until now.

Final Thoughts

Do you have a desire to look semi-professional while still feeling comfortable? If so, this pattern combination just might be the one for you. I know it’s the one for me. If I wasn’t wearing a bra with this outfit, I might have worn it to bed. Seriously, that good. Both patterns felt suitable for the advanced beginner. Instructions were clear and I would gladly recommend both.

Here’s the deal: yes, I received both of the patterns in exchange for either a review or testing but; the time, effort, and cost of fabric used in these projects is worth far more than the price of these patterns. I genuinely like both of these patterns and hope you will too!

Thanks for reading!

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#SewFreeFall: Peppermint Wrap Top

Fall is here! The leaves are changing, everything is pumpkin flavored, AND I can walk outside without sweating profusely. The changing of seasons is a glorious time, indeed! It’s inspired me to set a few goals for the last months of the year. One of those goals was to finally sew up some of the free PDF patterns that have been languishing on my hard drive. With that, I present to you #SewFreeFall. Each month I’ll sew up one or two free patterns and share them here. I’ll also include a few round-up posts here and there as I use and discover favorite free patterns (If you’re looking for a pretty exhaustive list, Sew Shannon recently posted an awesome one here). This isn’t a formal challenge as there aren’t currently any prizes to be awarded. Although there aren’t any prizes, I’d love it if you’d join me in sewing up some free patterns. Use the #sewfreefall on IG and share how you’re using free patterns in your fall sewing practice. Who knows? Maybe I’ll get crazy and add in a prize or two at some point.

Peppermint Wrap Top

The first up in my Sew Free Fall queue also happened to be the newest free pattern on my radar; the Peppermint Wrap Top by In the Folds for Peppermint Magazine.

Fabric

This Brussels Washer Linen in Leather Brown has been a favorite since I used some for the Arenite Pants in these photos (original post here). The rayon/linen blend combines the best qualities of each fabric. It has the crinkly texture and breathability of linen with the softness and drape of a rayon. Heaven in a fabric, I tell you. After nearly four months of regular washing and wear, I knew my love for this fabric wasn’t ending any time soon. Once I saw this wrap top pattern, two more yards were quickly purchased.

Sizing and Alterations

Using the measurements provided, I chose to cut a C at the bust graded to a D at the hem. I cut a straight C on the wrap part of the front pieces. The only place I actually graded to a D was on the side seams. As far as fitting goes, the only change I’d make a second time around would be moving the bust darts up about 1/2″ higher. They’re a little low on me as-is. For this version, the dart position didn’t bother me enough to unstitch the french seams. My only other alteration was shortening the sleeves. This decision was made more out of necessity than design choice but, I’m actually quite happy with the result.

Construction

During construction, I closely followed the directions and fully enclosed each seam. The result is a top that is almost as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside. While the instructions were straightforward and decently easy to follow, I would recommend that you read up on french seams if you’ve never done them before. Don’t let that scare you. French seams are one of the easiest ways to get a beautiful seam finish on the inside and I used to teach them to my beginner students when I taught sewing lessons.

If you can set-in a sleeve, sew a french seam, and sew a straight line; you are 100% ready to tackle this wrap top. Taking the time to sew french seams means this wasn’t the quickest sew. However, I was still able to finish it over the course of a couple afternoons.

Final Thoughts

I’ve been dreaming of a linen two-piece set for about a year now. The trickiest issue for me was always deciding on a pattern or fabric combination. When the Wrap Top pattern released, I knew the simple shape and design lines would make an excellent complement to my Arenite Pants. Now, I don’t want to wear anything else. The best part about this outfit is that it gives the look of a jumpsuit while maintaining the option to wear both pieces separately. Three cheers for versatility! It also happens to blend nicely with the background at the park where we snapped these photos. If I played hide-and-seek there, nobody would ever find me.

Overall, I’m delighted with the result of my first Sew Free Fall project. If I make this top again, I’ll address the dart fitting issue but it’s not a big enough one to keep this version from regular wear. The whole outfit is comfortable enough to be criminal. Now, please excuse me while I sew one of these outfits in every available color of Brussels Washer Linen.

Thanks for reading!

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2019 Summer Favorites

Most mornings, my son and I walk to school. Over the last few days, I’ve started to feel the cool, crisp air of fall. The appearance of fall weather has me reflecting on summer and the handmade pieces that I found myself wearing again and again. Are you ready for a post with very few styled photos? Yes? Okay! Here’s a rundown of the handmades that got me through Summer 2019.

Pants

You might have noticed that I’m a fan of pants (#sewfancypants, anyone?). I don’t have anything against shorts, I just haven’t made the time to sew some yet. Maybe next summer. The following pants are just so good that I haven’t felt the pull to make shorts.

1. Chambray Willamette Shirt and Arenite Pants 2. Striped Perkins Shirt and Arenite Pants
3. Hacked Fringe Top and Arenite Pants 4. Scout Tee and Arenite Pants

For me, the pattern of the summer was the Sew Liberated Arenite Pants (with slime leg hack). In May, I sewed my first pair (the ones pictured above) in a rayon/linen from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. I found myself wearing them multiple times each week and reaching for them immediately after they’d come out of the wash. My love for Arenite Pants was compounded when I made my second pair out of a textured Tencel. That pair was worn almost as much as the first. I just don’t have photos because I apparently took less of them as the summer progressed. My go-to styling method was wearing them with a woven cropped top and Saltwater sandals.

1. Tied Mila Shirt and Emerson Pant 2. Fringe Top Hack and Emerson Pant

When I wanted to dress up my summer looks a bit, I often found myself reaching for these high-rise True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. I first blogged about this pair during Sew Fancy Pants in January (original post here). In the winter they looked effortlessly cool paired with a Nikko Top and booties. During the summer, their wide leg shape and the breezy fabric kept me feeling cool. My go-to summer styling for the Emersons was pairing them with a slightly fancier rayon top and shiny flats.

1. RTW tee and Frisco Pants 2. Jersey Popover and Frisco Pants
3. Five Points Blouse and Frisco Pants 4. Cottesloe Swimsuit and Frisco Pants

This pair of pants hacked from the Threadbear Garments Frisco Jumpsuit pattern were an unexpected favorite (more info posted here). Considering the fact that I made these halfway through the summer, these babies got some serious wear. You may notice in the photos above that I didn’t really have a go-to styling method for these pants. Wearing them was more of an “anything goes” situation which was a ton of fun. First, you see my #momstyle. Second, I’m channeling my grandpa. Third, this one feels the most “me.” Fourth, I’m ready for a day of boating. You can see why they got plenty of wear. The possibilities with these pants felt numerous.

Jumpsuits

When it comes to ease of dressing, a jumpsuit is second to none. There’s just something about only having to throw on one clothing item that can’t be beat. I know, I know, you might be thinking, “What about the fact that you basically have to undress to go to the bathroom?” My answer: The all-day comfort of a good jumpsuit is 100% worth the inconvenience. Also, I have a child. Very few things embarrass me anymore.

1. Hampton Jean Jacket and Zadie Jumpsuit 2. Wiksten Haori and Zadie Jumpsuit
3. Zadie Jumpsuit

I grabbed this rayon/poplin Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit whenever I wanted to feel stylish and a little extra confident. It’s versatility proved useful as I wore it on an anniversary date, to my son’s school program, my son’s birthday party, and even to an outdoor work party in 90 degree heat. The pictures above illustrate that versatility. While I enjoyed playing around with styling, I most often found myself just throwing on the jumpsuit and wearing it with a simple pair of sandals.

1. Loominous Zadie Jumpsuit 2. Jean Paul Coverall

I don’t have a large amount to say about the two jumpsuits (Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit and Ready to Sew Jean Paul Coverall) pictured above except to say that I love them and both were also worn regularly. I pretty much styled them the same every time (straw hat + jumpsuit + sandals) so I don’t have many different photos. They also share the same bonus: not having to think about what to wear. I mean, there’s really not much more that I can ask for from an outfit except for style, ease of wear, and comfort.

Dresses and Skirts

Dresses and skirts were a staple of my summer wardrobe in previous years. This year I relied heavily on lightweight pants so these items didn’t get quite as much wear or photographs. Despite the limited amount of wear, they’re still summer favorites worth mentioning. Here’s what I love about them in photo order:

1. Fringe Top Hack and Justine Skirt 2. Scout Tee Swing Dress Hack
3. York Pinafore 4. Tea House Dress
  1. This Ready to Sew Justine Skirt (original blog post here) pairs well with at least half the tops in my wardrobe. It’s casual enough for most any activity and the big pockets are ideal for holding my phone, snacks, a water bottle, or my son’s rock collection.
  2. This Grainline Studio Scout Tee swing dress hack has now kept me cool through four summers (made before I was blogging). It’s not the most well made item in my handmade wardrobe but, easily in the top 10 most worn. It’s been to the amusement park, zoo, church, and even to the pool as a cover-up.
  3. The Helen’s Closet York Pinafore (original post here) is the only skirt/dress item I sewed this year that made the summer favorites cut. Most of the time I paired it with a simple tee shirt and sandals for a cool, casual vibe. The cotton/linen fabric kept it cool and the nice big pockets held everything I needed, eliminating limiting my need for a bag.
  4. The Sew House Seven Tea House Dress (original post here) is possibly one of my favorite dresses I’ve ever made. It has all the ease of a sack dress combined with a tie to add subtle shaping. I feel pretty every time I slip it on. Despite all these details, my favorite one is, you guessed it: the large pockets. Sometimes you just need some “Mary Poppins bag” style pockets.

Swimsuits

1. Cottesloe Swimsuit 2. Pilatus Swimsuit

Two swimsuits were added to my handmade wardrobe this year. Each proved to work well for different situations. The Megan Nielsen Cottesloe (original post here) in ribbed swim knit proved to be the ultimate suit for practicality. I wore it when I knew I’d be running around chasing my son or doing higher intensity water activities like tubing behind a boat. My rainbow striped Opian Pilatus swimsuit (original post here) turned out to be my “fun” swimsuit. I wore this one more often when swimming activities included a lot of laying or sitting around. It made me feel cute, confident, and NOT wanting to hide my body in the water. I didn’t swim a ton, but both have held up well with the use they have gotten.

Most Worn of Summer 2019

Pants, jumpsuits, swimwear, etc. are all great but, my most worn make of the summer is one that I didn’t even sew until July. Since then, my Helen’s Closet Suki Robe (original post here) has been worn almost daily. I throw it on the moment I wake up and wear it until I can no longer delay getting dressed. Honestly, this robe makes me feel like a freaking queen. It’s the first robe I’ve owned since childhood and owning one again seems luxurious. Splendidly, wearing it even makes me enjoy cooking breakfast.

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Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown

Hello! While the calendar says September, the Utah heat has me feeling like summer may stick around indefinitely. With temperatures still in the 90’s I figured I could squeeze in one last summer project. Cue the Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown. Getting this project out of my head and into my closet was just what I needed this week. Alright, let’s get to the details.

Fabric

I saw this rayon crepe(currently sold out) fabric on the Indiesew website back in January. At the time I was having a seriously rough week and something about the pattern and colors of this fabric brought a smile to my face. The next day, Allie showed this fabric on Instagram stories and I knew it was meant to be. So, I did what any fabric lover would do and panic bought four yards. A couple of days later it arrived and then sat brightening my shelf for the next eight months.

This particular rayon crepe is lightweight and surprisingly opaque. Unwashed, it was smooth and felt much like a standard rayon challis. Upon washing, however, it developed this lovely crinkled texture. The texture of the fabric is a great complement to the tropical print. It did, however, present some challenges for cutting. Some of the pieces didn’t turn out quite straight but, the pattern is forgiving enough that I just straightened them after each sewing step.

Sizing and Alterations

Based on the size chart, my bust measurements fell under a size small. The Wilder Gown pattern includes plenty of ease, so I decided not to grade up for my waist or hips. I also decided to add a bit of length. I added 1/2″ to the bodice length and 1″ to the length of each skirt tier.

Sewing and Construction

The gown was constructed over the course of two afternoons. The sewing itself was quick and enjoyable. It probably could’ve been finished in one if my machine had gotten along with my thread choice. I found some cheap matching thread in my stash and decided to forego a trip to the store and use it. Bad choice. My machine clanked and whined even after a thorough cleaning, rethreading, and a needle change. In a last ditch attempt to avoid sending my machine in for a tune-up, I changed the thread. Magically, my machine decided to work perfectly once again. After about an hour spent on troubleshooting I found that the machine really just didn’t like my chosen thread in the bobbin. In the end, I solved my issue by using the cheap thread on top and a better quality (not perfectly matched) thread in the bobbin.

Final Thoughts

I wasn’t initially sold on wearing this particular silhouette. Perhaps the issue was that my first try on was over my clothes in my unorganized sewing room. However, I put on make-up, grabbed some favorite earrings, and paired the dress with clogs for photos. Turns out that styling made all the difference for me. Now, I can’t wait to put this dress on again. It’s comfortable, breezy, and feels like a nightgown in all the best ways. I mean, look at my expression in the photo below. That girl clearly loves what she’s wearing.

The only drawback to this dress? The bees seemed drawn to the bright colors and I had one follow me for most of the walk back to my car last night. After landing on my dress, it finally recognized that I was not a plant and left me alone. With that being the only drawback, I’d call this Wilder Gown a win and the perfect way to end my summer sewing. Now, it’s been raining all morning and I’m itching to get started on some fall projects. Anyone else?

Thanks for reading!

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Frisco Jumpsuit Pants Hack

(Disclosure: I was a tester for the Frisco Jumpsuit which means I received the pattern for free in exchange for my honest feedback during pattern testing. I was not obligated in any way to write a blog post or share about this pattern.)

Hello there! It’s been a minute or two. August has been all about spending time with my son before school started. After nearly a month off of sewing and blogging, I’m feeling recharged and ready to hit the ground running. First up, it’s time I told you about these pants I made back in July. They’re a hack of the newly released Threadbear Garments Frisco Jumpsuit. I’ve been waiting to share this post until I took styled photos of the actual jumpsuit I made during testing. Alas, that doesn’t seem to be happening so I decided to just go for it. Let’s get down to the details.

Fabric

Earlier this year, I made a Five Points Blouse (the one I’m wearing in these photos) using the navy stripe Verona Voile by Telio Fabrics. After a few months of wear, I loved the fabric so much that I decided to order more in a new color. I purchased this deep olive stripe cotton/rayon voile from Fabric.com via Amazon. The fabric feels so lightweight that sometimes I have to double check I’m actually wearing clothing. Basically, it’s a summer dream.

Sizing

During testing I discovered that Leslie’s pattern block happened to fit quite well with few alterations. For this project, I sewed a straight size 10 with 3 inches added to the leg length.

Hacking the Jumpsuit into Pants

This “hack” is actually such a breeze that I feel almost embarrassed to call it a pattern hack. Want to make your own Frisco pants? Just follow the next few steps:

  1. Grab your pattern pieces for the pant legs, waistband, and pockets.
  2. Remove length from the rise. I chose to remove 1″ from both the front and back rise. In a jumpsuit, you sometimes need that extra length for ease of movement, etc. Unless you want your pants to be suuuuuper high-waisted, removing a bit of length is a necessity.
  3. Sew pockets and pant legs as directed in pattern.
  4. Assemble waistband and facing and sew waist tie as directed in pattern.
  5. Place your waistband and waistband facing right sides together. Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, sew the top of the waistband and facing together. Turn right side out and press.
  6. Baste the bottom of your waistband pieces together.
  7. Making sure the outside of your waistband (not the facing) is against the right side of your pants, align notches and attach waistband to pants with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Finish raw edge as desired.
  8. Follow pattern instructions for inserting the waistband elastic and hemming.

Not too difficult, right?

Final Thoughts

Since I still haven’t fallen in love with shorts, dresses and lightweight pants are my lifeline in the summer heat. These Frisco Pants in cloud-like voile were a welcome wardrobe addition. In fact, I’ve gotten at least 10-15 wears out of them since making them in July. My favorite way to style them has been the faux jumpsuit look pictured above. A close second would be worn with my Cottesloe Swimsuit for a day spent near the water. As fall approaches, I’m anticipating the olive color to transition well into the season and look forward to playing around with cool weather styling.

The only thing I’d change in another pair would be removing an extra 1/2″ from the front and back rise. This pair sometimes feels a little long in the crotch. Honestly, that’s the only thing I don’t love about these pants. It’s such a small flaw and hasn’t kept me from reaching for my Frisco Pants every time they’re clean. Overall, I’d call them a successful hack.

Thanks for reading!

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True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper

Hello! Today’s post has been months in the making and I couldn’t be more excited to finally share. I was fortunate enough to be a tester for the True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper. For obvious reasons, I chose to sew the romper view. This romper was sewn way back in February, hung in my closet waiting for a final hem until May , and was finally photographed at the beginning of this month. Was it worth the wait? To me, absolutely! Let’s get to the details.

Fabric

I purchased this teal sand washed rayon from Raspberry Creek Fabrics over a year ago, intending to use it for another project. Instead it turned out to be the perfect fabric for a Shelby. It’s soft, lightweight, and has a price that can’t be beat (especially when a project requires several yards).

Sizing and Alterations

(please note: This was my tester version so some aspects of the final pattern have been changed)

I’ve used several True Bias patterns and generally found Kelli’s measurement charts to be accurate so I chose my sizing based on the chart. For this version I used a 4 at the bust, graded to an 8 at the waist, and a 10 at the hips. I added 1″ to the bodice length (which I don’t actually think was necessary here) and 2″ to the length of the legs. Next time (which I’m planning on), I will address the tightness in the arms which is likely due to my need for a full bicep adjustment and not a pattern issue. This particular fabric is actually quite forgiving so the sleeves are still plenty comfortable as-is despite looking quite tight.

My one other alteration was adding inseam pockets. I drew my own pockets and accidentally made them a bit small for my liking. Next time I’ll make them bigger and place them about 2 inches higher. They add some bulk at the hips, which is likely why pockets aren’t included in the pattern. If you’re a pocket lover, don’t let that deter you from the pattern as adding inseam pockets is a simple alteration with plenty of great resources available to walk you through the process.

Construction

I think it’s been mentioned in previous posts but, I’m not actually a quick sewer. Although my efficiency has improved over the years, there are just some things that can’t be rushed. Assembling the pattern took a good 45 minutes, cutting it took about 1 hour, and sewing took approximately 6 hours. The most difficult part of construction was attaching the facing without stretching the neckline or center front pieces. As long as you’re not using a terribly difficult fabric; it’s a feat that’s mildly simple to achieve. With that, I would recommend this pattern to an advanced beginner or intermediate sewist.

Final Thoughts

Why has a pattern like this just now entered my life? This Shelby Romper combines the breezy feel and feminine style of a dress with the practicality of pants. I wore it to church a couple weeks ago and have never felt more comfortable while teaching a class of three year olds. This was perfect for keeping me covered while allowing for the movement and fun that comes with entertaining young children. Mothers of my class gave compliments on the style and practical use of such a garment. It’s gold, I tell you, pure gold.

Wearing and writing about my Shelby has me daydreaming of my next version. I’m thinking knee length with some sort of hacked long sleeve. Paired with booties and possibly tights it would be a 90’s dream come true. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m off to source the perfect fabric…

Thanks for reading!

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Suki Robe and Arenite Pants with Indiesew

Disclosure: The fabric for my pants and the Suki Robe pattern were provided to me by Indiesew in exchange for this post. All opinions are my own.

Hello! Today I’m back with my third post as part of the 2019 Indiesew Blogger team. Just now I realized that all of my Indiesew posts have somewhat of a “something old, something new” theme. In each one, I’ve shared a previously sewn pattern and a new to me pattern. It’s a fairly true reflection of my sewing practice as it’s never simply one or the other. There’s a feeling of calm and comfort that comes from knowing a pattern inside and out whose only rival for my attention is the excitement of beginning a new project. Today’s contenders are the Sew Liberated Arenite Pants and the Helen’s Closet Suki Robe. I’ve styled them together, separately, and brought in some reinforcements from previous posts to give them each fighting chance.

Arenite Pants

Styled with an Archer Button Up (from this post), clogs, and my current favorite hat, these slim hack Arenite Pants are ready to put their best foot forward (or would it be leg in this case??).

Fabric

The moment I saw this Tencel Jacquard in Olive Green (also available in Icy Blue) posted on Indiesew’s Instagram grid (this post), I knew it had to be mine. Tencel, texture, and green? Sold! I was not disappointed when it arrived at my doorstep a week later. It’s buttery soft with a fluid drape and dreamy texture. As per usual, I demanded my husband feel the luxury of this fabric and he described it as his perfect blanket. He was not wrong. The light weight of the fabric combines with the texture to make it feel simultaneously cool and cozy. I’m seriously considering ordering 1.5 yards, hemming or binding the fabric, and using it as a lightweight throw blanket in my living room. The only caveat? It does shrink slightly as expected with the fabric content. The fabric is 53″ wide. After washing I measured it at 48″ wide. It’s not recommended to dry Tencel in a dryer but, I always do.

Sizing, Alterations, and Construction

Combining all these aspects here because I’ve blogged about this pattern before and you can click here to read my previous Arenite Pants post. Just as last time I sewed these pants, I used the Arenite Pants “slim” hack that Meg of Sew Liberated (@sewliberated) has detailed in her Instagram story highlights. Again, I used a size 6 with all the same alterations detailed in my last post. My only extra changes here were moving the pockets up an extra 1″ and taking in the ankles an extra 1/8″ seam allowance (for a total of 3/4″ SA). This removed a total of 3/4″ from the width of the ankles for a slightly slimmer look.

Construction was quick and easy. Again, I opted to forego the felled seams and simply stitched, then serged and topstitched them. They still feel plenty secure. Without felled seams, the pants took most of an afternoon to construct.

Suki Robe

While a newcomer in today’s battle of the sewing projects, the Suki Robe is ready to give the competition a wake up call. In order to shine, this robe prefers to stand on its own. This means that for the five minutes we took these photos, I was wearing just my underclothing and a robe in a public park, so um, you’re welcome?

Fabric

This fabric “Lillium” was designed by colorful creative, handmade hustler, and Sew Fancy Pants co-conspirator, Katie Kortman for D&H Fabrics. Both Katie and Tammy of D&H have been great friends and supporters over the last year so when I had the chance to support both of them by purchasing this lovely fabric it was a no-brainer. The fabric is a rayon poplin with great drape and a silky hand.

Sizing and Alterations

I chose to sew the mid-calf length and selected a size medium based on my measurements. My only alterations to the pattern were made out of a desire to fit it onto a smaller than recommended amount of fabric (that was also directional) and not actual necessity. I had 2.5 yards of this print and didn’t want any of the flowers to be upside down so I had to get creative with pattern placement. In the end, I removed 1.5″ from the mid-calf length and 1″ from the waist tie length to make everything fit. Neither made too much difference in the final fit so I decided I could do without the extra length.

Construction

Sewing this Suki Robe took about double the time it took to sew the Arenite Pants. While somewhat time consuming, the construction wasn’t terribly difficult and something that can be achieved by either the intermediate/advanced or beginner sewist. Helen’s directions include beginner friendly options for the sleeve bands and collar or more advanced methods with enclosed seams in the those areas. Since I’ve been sewing regularly for about a decade, I’d consider myself somewhat of an advanced sewist and chose the enclosed collar and sleeve bands. The end result was a well-constructed robe of which I can be proud.

Final Scoring

Okay, okay, the truth is: my handmade clothes and the patterns used for them feel a little like children. I don’t love the older one any less just because a newer one came along. They’ve each got qualities that make them unique while not diminishing what makes the other special. I can’t decide between them so I’ll lay out a few categories and let you do the decision making. (Just for clarification, if I ever had more than one actual child, I would not encourage strangers on the internet to vote for their favorite. ) The categories are: Fabric Use, Versatility, and Construction Time.

Fabric Use

Both my Arenite Pants slim hack and Suki Robe used almost exactly 2.5 yards of fabric with almost no useable scraps left.

Versatility

The Arenite Pants will only ever be pants but, can be styled for outdoor wear year-round. They pair well with a tee shirt as lounge pants or with a dressier top as an outfit for wearing pretty much anywhere.

The Suki Robe is something I only envision wearing outside of the house in fair weather. During the summer it would make a great swim cover up and I love the idea of it as a light layer for cool evenings. However, it will likely get almost daily use as a house robe year-round. This is the first robe I’ve made and I just didn’t know how much I needed one for daily wear until now.

Construction Time

My Arenite pants came together in a flash (just over 3 hours). However, if I had felled the seams as the pattern directs, they likely would’ve taken twice as long.

The Suki Robe was a semi time consuming project for me. It took part of one evening as well as a good chunk of one day. If I had to guess, I’d say it took about 7-8 hours to sew.

There you have it. Do you have a winner in your mind? Are you team ‘Something Old’ (Arenite Pants) or team ‘Something New’ (Suki Robe)? Feel free to cast your vote in the comments section.

Thanks for reading!

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Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit

I don’t know what it’s been like for you but, summer has had a bit of a slow start here in Utah. The temperatures have seemed cooler than normal for the last couple of months. This last week, all that changed. The summer heat has arrived. Now I’m once again ready to sew all the swimsuits. My family had a neighborhood/church swim party to attend this week and I used it as an excuse/deadline to finally sew up a Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit. The View A with tie back has been tempting me since seeing Sara’s earlier this year. Alright, let’s get into it.

Fabric

In May, I purchased this Ribbed Swim Tricot in Spruce from Blackbird Fabrics. I have a thing for emerald and forest greens (see my Zadie Jumpsuit or Joy Jacket for further proof) and was drawn to the texture of the ribbing. Once the fabric arrived in the mail, I knew I’d made the right choice. The color was spot on and the texture gives it a little more heftiness and security than a regular swim knit. Sewing it was made easier because the extra thickness stopped the fabric from getting eaten by my machine which occasionally happens with swim. It’s a real dream and I’m using all my self control to stop myself from ordering it in additional colors.

Sizing and Alterations

I think this is my favorite part of sewing a custom swimsuit. There’s something powerful in taking your body and its measurements back from the ready to wear industry and making something that fits just right. Swimsuit shopping used to leave me feeling odd and unnatural. Swimsuit sewing leaves me feeling empowered.

Following the Cottesloe size chart, my measurements put me in a 4 bust with a 12 at the waist and hip. Taking this into account, I used a 4 until just below the bust and then graded out to a 12 for the rest of the suit. As usual, a little extra length was needed so I added 1/2″ in length to the front and back straps and 1″ to the length at the lengthen/shorten line. The last adjustment I made was adding a little big more coverage for the booty. I added about 1/2″ to the back leg openings, tapering that amount to meet the seam allowances on either side. With those alterations done, I was ready to sew.

Construction

The suit came together pretty quickly once I started sewing. With my pieces already cut (completed the previous night), I was able to sew the suit together in a day. This day included regular mom duties and a family lunch date. If I had sewn all at once, it probably would’ve taken 2-3 hours.

I opted to add foam cups and fully line the whole suit. When I’m nearly nude in public, I tend to prefer the security that extra layer of fabric provides (even if it’s a false sense of security). There are instructions for both a fully lined suit or a shelf bra in the pattern. During the construction I had one momentary panic when I noticed the cups seemed to be sewn in lopsided. I had carefully tried on and pinned the cups and couldn’t figure out how I’d gone wrong. Upon trying on the suit, I noticed that things didn’t look lopsided at all. Turns out my chest is just a bit more asymmetrical than I’d thought. Just one of the many perks of sewing; I learn new things about my body all the time.

The simplicity of the suit and straightforward instructions made this a joy to sew. This was the third suit I’ve sewn for myself and one of the easiest. While my skills have certainly improved since my first suit in 2015 (that was NOT easy), I would credit some of that ease to a perfectly simple pattern. If you’re a beginner, this pattern is a great place to start.

Final Thoughts

After testing it out for an evening, I have no complaints. The suit held up, kept me covered, and made me feel great. The only thing I would change if making this suit a second time would be moving the back ties up about an inch. I inserted them a bit low. I have a feeling this suit will have a place in my summer wardrobe for years to come. Having a good, basic, one-piece will never go out of style. My next swim venture will hopefully be making some swim separates out of my leftover fabric. If you have favorite two piece swim patterns, I’d love your suggestions.

Thanks for reading! Now, please get back to thoroughly enjoying your summer. I know I will!

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Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress Tour

Disclosure: Although the pattern was given to me for participation in this tour, all words and opinions are my own.

Clearly I can’t get enough of Ace and Jig inspired makes because here’s my second one in less than a week (Check out my A+J inspired Zadie Jumpsuit here). Joining the Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress Tour was the perfect opportunity to sew up my own version of a dress I’d been ogling for months (use code ‘madridtour’ for 25% off any Coffee and Thread patterns through June 28th). This required a bit of hacking but, I was up to the challenge. Are you ready for it?

Inspiration

Last fall I was watching Ace and Jig’s Instagram stories when my jaw dropped at upon seeing this version of their Ellis Dress. The pattern mixing and play on scale had me instantly hooked. I saved the photo, vowing to someday make one of my own. Time went by and I had all but forgotten about the dress until I saw Olga’s release of the Madrid Dress. Seeing the pattern reminded me of my dream dress and reignited the fire.

The Madrid Dress pattern isn’t an exact match for the A + J dress, but comes pretty darn close. There are two main differences:

  1. Madrid Dress is a faux wrap style while the A + J dress is a true wrap.
  2. Madrid Dress pattern actually has three tiers for the maxi length (hack details coming later in this post) while the A + J dress has 4.

Difference #1 was actually preferable for me as true wrap dresses sometimes leave me feeling like I’m just one wardrobe malfunction away from accidentally exposing everything to the world. Difference #2 was an easy fix that just required a bit of math which we’ll get to real soon. Overall, they’re pretty similar and the Madrid made for a great starting point.

Fabric

After singing the praises of Anna Maria Horner’s Loominous fabric lines in my last post, I’ll just cut to the chase here and say these 100% cotton yarn dyed wovens are incredible. Dreams are made of these fabrics. This dress uses two fabrics from her Loominous II line. The first is Dotted Line in Cobalt Blue (purchased from Graciebelle Fabrics on Etsy) which has black and pale coral lines stitched into the fabric. This specific fabric was actually the inspiration behind the hand embroidered stitches I added to the back of my Hampton Jean Jacket (here). The second fabric is Tribe in Algae (purchased from Hawthorne Threads), a mint green with stripes of cobalt, forest, and bits of pale pink woven throughout. Together they mimic the play on scale and bold fabric choices included in the inspiration dress.

The only thing that isn’t ideal about these two fabrics is the fact that they’re only 44″ wide. The narrow width meant that I had to order 9 yards of fabric (5 of the blue, 4 of the mint) to determine that I’d have enough of each. Honestly, the price of ordering 9 yards of fabric kept me from making this dress sooner. I hemmed and hawed over spending the money on a dress that likely wouldn’t get as much wear as most practical items in my wardrobe. I spent hours scouring Etsy and online fabric stores looking for the absolute best deals on these two fabrics and was lucky enough to find both for less than $10/yd. In the end, I decided that the dress wasn’t worth making at all if it wasn’t something I loved and that made the cost worth it. This time I threw caution to the wind and sewed a little frosting just for the fun of it.

Sizing

According to the size chart, my measurements fell into a 4 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. I started with a size 4 at the bust and graded to an 8 at the waist and below. There’s enough ease in the hips that I didn’t have to worry about grading out to a 10. I also added 1/2″ to the bodice length. As a side note here, the front bodice facing is missing a lengthen/shorten line. add this in by lining your facing piece up with your front bodice piece and marking the lengthen/shorten line. Then add the same amount of length to your facing piece. Since the rest of the sizing alterations happened in the hacking of the skirt, it’s finally time to get down to it.

Hacking the Skirt

Since the maxi version of the Madrid dress has three tiers and I wanted four, it was time to do a bit of math. My exact calculations here are based on a size 8 with a skirt length of 45″, I’ll include the formulas however, so you can do the math for your own custom size.

  1. Determine your desired length by measuring from your waist to the floor (mine was 45″).
  2. Divide the desired length by 4. (Desired length/4) Mine ended being 45/4 coming out to approximately 11.25″ per tier.
  3. Add 3/4″ to the desired tier length to account for 3/8″ seam allowances on top and bottom. I ended up with a total length of 12″ for each tier.
  4. Keep the width of the first tier as drafted, with the only change being to cut off length to fit your new desired tier length.
  5. Measure the width of the 1st tier. To account for seam allowances remove 3/4″ from that width. (1st tier width – 3/4″ = finished 1st tier width). Take the first tier width and multiply this by 1.5. This will give you the finished width of your 2nd tier. Divide the finished width by the width of your fabric. This will tell you how many (desired tier length) strips to cut. Add 3/4″ to the width of each strip to account for seam allowances.
  6. Follow the steps in #5 above to calculate for the 3rd tier, this time using the finished width of your 2nd tier multiplied by 1.5. Again, divide this number by your fabric width to determine the number of needed (desired tier length strips). Don’t forget to add in 3/4″ to the width of each strip for seam allowances.
  7. Again, follow the steps in #5 above to calculate for the 4th tier, this time using the finished width of your 3rd tier multiplied by 1.5. Again, divide this number by your fabric width to determine the number of needed (desired tier length strips). Don’t forget to add in 3/4″ to the width of each strip for seam allowances.
  8. It seams like a lot, but once you get the hang of it, the math is pretty simple. For reference, here’s what I cut out for my size 8 tiers: 2nd tier- 2 strips 12″x 46 and 1/8″ (the blue had to be cut down the length of the fabric instead of the width), 3rd tier- 4 strips 12″ x 34 and 3/4″, 4th tier- 3 strips 12″ by 69 and 7/8″ or 6 strips 12″ by 34 and 3/4″.

There you have it. Three tiers have now become four. Follow construction as instructed in the pattern directions (I did end up attaching the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th tiers to one another before attaching them to the finished bodice and first tier).

Final Thoughts

Gosh, it feels delightful to have a dress fit for twirling. It’s been a bit since I made a truly twirly dress and my inner 10 year old girl was squealing with joy while taking these photos. Gathering took approximately a million years but was 100% worth it. I’ve also had my fill of gathering for a bit so I’ll probably stay away from it for a few weeks at least.

Overall, I’m thrilled that this dress turned out how I envisioned. This is not always the case and I took a big gamble purchasing 9 yards of fabric for something that I wasn’t sure would work. My version is fuller than the Ace and Jig inspiration dress but, that just ups it’s twirling factor which is fine by me. Will I make this hack again, probably not because I don’t need more than one bright, fabulously twirly, pioneer chic dress in my wardrobe. Am I satisfied with the end result? Yes, 100%! That’s all I got for you today. Hope you’ve enjoyed reading about this dress as much as I enjoy wearing it!

Want to see more Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress inspiration? Be sure to check out the tour on Instagram by following the hashtags #ctmadriddress and #madriddresstour.

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Ace and Jig Inspired Zadie Jumpsuit

Oooooookay, get ready for a photo overload because this Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit is the most “me” thing I’ve ever made and I’m in love. I mean, the woman in these photos is who I am (style-wise) in my dreams. Just a jumpsuit wearing, hat sporting, smiling woman casually strolling through the great outdoors. Forgive me if I can’t adequately communicate my feelings in this post. Hopefully the photos will fill in where my words fail.

Inspiration

Ace and Jig is a company that’s inspiring not only for their designs, and unique fabrics but also for their core values. I’m sure they’re already on your radar, but if not, check them out. While I adore the company, I know I’m not alone in saying that I just don’t have upwards of $300 to spend on one item of clothing that may or may not fit my unique body type. Considering my height of 5’10” and hips that are 3-4 sizes larger than my bust, a well-fitting ready-to-wear jumpsuit is something I’ve never found. Last year when browsing Pinterest, I came across this Ace and Jig Wrap Jumper and knew it was something I wanted to recreate for my wardrobe. The comparison below illustrates how differences between these two jumpsuits give them a similar vibe while still maintaining their own unique features. We’ll call them jumpsuit cousins.

Inspiration image found here

Fabric

It’s no secret that I’m a bit of an Anna Maria Horner superfan (just click the Anna Maria Horner tag at the bottom of this post and you’ll see what I mean). While I’ve pretty much never met an AMH fabric I didn’t like, her Loominous and Loominous II lines will forever be favorites. Both lines consist of multiple patterns made with 100% cotton yarn-dyed woven fabric. Green is my preferred color and I love the dimension the mustard and teal dots add to the forest green background. In order to make this jumpsuit, I purchased 5 yards of Slightly in Forest from Flying Bulldogs on Etsy. That amount turned out to be plenty and when all was said and done, I had about 1 yard left over. Now, what should I do with that extra yard?

Sizing and Alterations

This version is my second Zadie Jumpsuit after making a wearable muslin from a rayon poplin. My first version included all my regular alterations and kept the wide legs as drafted. I made a few changes to this second version so let’s get to it.

As far as sizing for this version goes, I chose a size 8 at the chest and graded to a 12 at the hips and below. I added 1/2″ of length to the bodice and 4 inches of length to the legs. Next time I’ll likely add an extra inch for a total of 5 inches added to the legs.

To achieve my desired look, I also tapered the the legs. Starting just below the crotch curve, I slightly angled each side seam until I’d taken them in by 2 and 5/8″ on each side of both the front and back pieces (that’s a total of 10 and 1/2″ taken out of each leg at the bottom near the hem).

Construction

The only closure on the Zadie Jumpsuit is the tie front, making construction quick and mostly painless. This was sewn in small increments over about three days’ time. The only difficulty I encountered were a few spots on my bias binding where I didn’t quite catch the back side. I simply fixed those two areas (each shorter than an inch) and didn’t even bother unpicking the first set of stitches because they’re hardly noticeable. If someone is getting that close to my chest, an extra row of stitching will be the least of their worries.

My only change to the construction was in the hem finishing. The pattern instructs that the sleeve hems are just turned in 1cm which would leave a raw or exposed serged edge on the inside of the hems. Instead I chose to turn the hems inside by 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ so the serged sleeve edges are completely enclosed. This is simply personal preference, not a necessity. I just thought it provided a more professional looking finish.

Conclusions

The Zadie Fever is a sewing community phenomenon for good reason. Both of my versions are the most comfortable woven jumpsuits in my decent sized jumpsuit collection. The pattern is a quick, simple sew with big impact results. If I make this pattern again, I may try to convert the pleats in the back bodice and back pant into darts. I’m not in love with the bulk of the pleats but, it’s not a deal breaker for me either. These jumpsuits will no doubt be worn to death over the summer months. I’m also looking forward to working them into my wardrobe year-round. With those thoughts, I’ll conclude today’s jumpsuit lovefest. Now, I’m off to work on my next project which also includes AMH Loominous fabric and inspiration from Ace and Jig. See you Monday with the details.