Posted on

#SewFreeFall: Peppermint Wrap Top

Fall is here! The leaves are changing, everything is pumpkin flavored, AND I can walk outside without sweating profusely. The changing of seasons is a glorious time, indeed! It’s inspired me to set a few goals for the last months of the year. One of those goals was to finally sew up some of the free PDF patterns that have been languishing on my hard drive. With that, I present to you #SewFreeFall. Each month I’ll sew up one or two free patterns and share them here. I’ll also include a few round-up posts here and there as I use and discover favorite free patterns (If you’re looking for a pretty exhaustive list, Sew Shannon recently posted an awesome one here). This isn’t a formal challenge as there aren’t currently any prizes to be awarded. Although there aren’t any prizes, I’d love it if you’d join me in sewing up some free patterns. Use the #sewfreefall on IG and share how you’re using free patterns in your fall sewing practice. Who knows? Maybe I’ll get crazy and add in a prize or two at some point.

Peppermint Wrap Top

The first up in my Sew Free Fall queue also happened to be the newest free pattern on my radar; the Peppermint Wrap Top by In the Folds for Peppermint Magazine.

Fabric

This Brussels Washer Linen in Leather Brown has been a favorite since I used some for the Arenite Pants in these photos (original post here). The rayon/linen blend combines the best qualities of each fabric. It has the crinkly texture and breathability of linen with the softness and drape of a rayon. Heaven in a fabric, I tell you. After nearly four months of regular washing and wear, I knew my love for this fabric wasn’t ending any time soon. Once I saw this wrap top pattern, two more yards were quickly purchased.

Sizing and Alterations

Using the measurements provided, I chose to cut a C at the bust graded to a D at the hem. I cut a straight C on the wrap part of the front pieces. The only place I actually graded to a D was on the side seams. As far as fitting goes, the only change I’d make a second time around would be moving the bust darts up about 1/2″ higher. They’re a little low on me as-is. For this version, the dart position didn’t bother me enough to unstitch the french seams. My only other alteration was shortening the sleeves. This decision was made more out of necessity than design choice but, I’m actually quite happy with the result.

Construction

During construction, I closely followed the directions and fully enclosed each seam. The result is a top that is almost as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside. While the instructions were straightforward and decently easy to follow, I would recommend that you read up on french seams if you’ve never done them before. Don’t let that scare you. French seams are one of the easiest ways to get a beautiful seam finish on the inside and I used to teach them to my beginner students when I taught sewing lessons.

If you can set-in a sleeve, sew a french seam, and sew a straight line; you are 100% ready to tackle this wrap top. Taking the time to sew french seams means this wasn’t the quickest sew. However, I was still able to finish it over the course of a couple afternoons.

Final Thoughts

I’ve been dreaming of a linen two-piece set for about a year now. The trickiest issue for me was always deciding on a pattern or fabric combination. When the Wrap Top pattern released, I knew the simple shape and design lines would make an excellent complement to my Arenite Pants. Now, I don’t want to wear anything else. The best part about this outfit is that it gives the look of a jumpsuit while maintaining the option to wear both pieces separately. Three cheers for versatility! It also happens to blend nicely with the background at the park where we snapped these photos. If I played hide-and-seek there, nobody would ever find me.

Overall, I’m delighted with the result of my first Sew Free Fall project. If I make this top again, I’ll address the dart fitting issue but it’s not a big enough one to keep this version from regular wear. The whole outfit is comfortable enough to be criminal. Now, please excuse me while I sew one of these outfits in every available color of Brussels Washer Linen.

Thanks for reading!

Posted on

2019 Summer Favorites

Most mornings, my son and I walk to school. Over the last few days, I’ve started to feel the cool, crisp air of fall. The appearance of fall weather has me reflecting on summer and the handmade pieces that I found myself wearing again and again. Are you ready for a post with very few styled photos? Yes? Okay! Here’s a rundown of the handmades that got me through Summer 2019.

Pants

You might have noticed that I’m a fan of pants (#sewfancypants, anyone?). I don’t have anything against shorts, I just haven’t made the time to sew some yet. Maybe next summer. The following pants are just so good that I haven’t felt the pull to make shorts.

1. Chambray Willamette Shirt and Arenite Pants 2. Striped Perkins Shirt and Arenite Pants
3. Hacked Fringe Top and Arenite Pants 4. Scout Tee and Arenite Pants

For me, the pattern of the summer was the Sew Liberated Arenite Pants (with slime leg hack). In May, I sewed my first pair (the ones pictured above) in a rayon/linen from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. I found myself wearing them multiple times each week and reaching for them immediately after they’d come out of the wash. My love for Arenite Pants was compounded when I made my second pair out of a textured Tencel. That pair was worn almost as much as the first. I just don’t have photos because I apparently took less of them as the summer progressed. My go-to styling method was wearing them with a woven cropped top and Saltwater sandals.

1. Tied Mila Shirt and Emerson Pant 2. Fringe Top Hack and Emerson Pant

When I wanted to dress up my summer looks a bit, I often found myself reaching for these high-rise True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. I first blogged about this pair during Sew Fancy Pants in January (original post here). In the winter they looked effortlessly cool paired with a Nikko Top and booties. During the summer, their wide leg shape and the breezy fabric kept me feeling cool. My go-to summer styling for the Emersons was pairing them with a slightly fancier rayon top and shiny flats.

1. RTW tee and Frisco Pants 2. Jersey Popover and Frisco Pants
3. Five Points Blouse and Frisco Pants 4. Cottesloe Swimsuit and Frisco Pants

This pair of pants hacked from the Threadbear Garments Frisco Jumpsuit pattern were an unexpected favorite (more info posted here). Considering the fact that I made these halfway through the summer, these babies got some serious wear. You may notice in the photos above that I didn’t really have a go-to styling method for these pants. Wearing them was more of an “anything goes” situation which was a ton of fun. First, you see my #momstyle. Second, I’m channeling my grandpa. Third, this one feels the most “me.” Fourth, I’m ready for a day of boating. You can see why they got plenty of wear. The possibilities with these pants felt numerous.

Jumpsuits

When it comes to ease of dressing, a jumpsuit is second to none. There’s just something about only having to throw on one clothing item that can’t be beat. I know, I know, you might be thinking, “What about the fact that you basically have to undress to go to the bathroom?” My answer: The all-day comfort of a good jumpsuit is 100% worth the inconvenience. Also, I have a child. Very few things embarrass me anymore.

1. Hampton Jean Jacket and Zadie Jumpsuit 2. Wiksten Haori and Zadie Jumpsuit
3. Zadie Jumpsuit

I grabbed this rayon/poplin Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit whenever I wanted to feel stylish and a little extra confident. It’s versatility proved useful as I wore it on an anniversary date, to my son’s school program, my son’s birthday party, and even to an outdoor work party in 90 degree heat. The pictures above illustrate that versatility. While I enjoyed playing around with styling, I most often found myself just throwing on the jumpsuit and wearing it with a simple pair of sandals.

1. Loominous Zadie Jumpsuit 2. Jean Paul Coverall

I don’t have a large amount to say about the two jumpsuits (Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit and Ready to Sew Jean Paul Coverall) pictured above except to say that I love them and both were also worn regularly. I pretty much styled them the same every time (straw hat + jumpsuit + sandals) so I don’t have many different photos. They also share the same bonus: not having to think about what to wear. I mean, there’s really not much more that I can ask for from an outfit except for style, ease of wear, and comfort.

Dresses and Skirts

Dresses and skirts were a staple of my summer wardrobe in previous years. This year I relied heavily on lightweight pants so these items didn’t get quite as much wear or photographs. Despite the limited amount of wear, they’re still summer favorites worth mentioning. Here’s what I love about them in photo order:

1. Fringe Top Hack and Justine Skirt 2. Scout Tee Swing Dress Hack
3. York Pinafore 4. Tea House Dress
  1. This Ready to Sew Justine Skirt (original blog post here) pairs well with at least half the tops in my wardrobe. It’s casual enough for most any activity and the big pockets are ideal for holding my phone, snacks, a water bottle, or my son’s rock collection.
  2. This Grainline Studio Scout Tee swing dress hack has now kept me cool through four summers (made before I was blogging). It’s not the most well made item in my handmade wardrobe but, easily in the top 10 most worn. It’s been to the amusement park, zoo, church, and even to the pool as a cover-up.
  3. The Helen’s Closet York Pinafore (original post here) is the only skirt/dress item I sewed this year that made the summer favorites cut. Most of the time I paired it with a simple tee shirt and sandals for a cool, casual vibe. The cotton/linen fabric kept it cool and the nice big pockets held everything I needed, eliminating limiting my need for a bag.
  4. The Sew House Seven Tea House Dress (original post here) is possibly one of my favorite dresses I’ve ever made. It has all the ease of a sack dress combined with a tie to add subtle shaping. I feel pretty every time I slip it on. Despite all these details, my favorite one is, you guessed it: the large pockets. Sometimes you just need some “Mary Poppins bag” style pockets.

Swimsuits

1. Cottesloe Swimsuit 2. Pilatus Swimsuit

Two swimsuits were added to my handmade wardrobe this year. Each proved to work well for different situations. The Megan Nielsen Cottesloe (original post here) in ribbed swim knit proved to be the ultimate suit for practicality. I wore it when I knew I’d be running around chasing my son or doing higher intensity water activities like tubing behind a boat. My rainbow striped Opian Pilatus swimsuit (original post here) turned out to be my “fun” swimsuit. I wore this one more often when swimming activities included a lot of laying or sitting around. It made me feel cute, confident, and NOT wanting to hide my body in the water. I didn’t swim a ton, but both have held up well with the use they have gotten.

Most Worn of Summer 2019

Pants, jumpsuits, swimwear, etc. are all great but, my most worn make of the summer is one that I didn’t even sew until July. Since then, my Helen’s Closet Suki Robe (original post here) has been worn almost daily. I throw it on the moment I wake up and wear it until I can no longer delay getting dressed. Honestly, this robe makes me feel like a freaking queen. It’s the first robe I’ve owned since childhood and owning one again seems luxurious. Splendidly, wearing it even makes me enjoy cooking breakfast.

Posted on

Frisco Jumpsuit Pants Hack

(Disclosure: I was a tester for the Frisco Jumpsuit which means I received the pattern for free in exchange for my honest feedback during pattern testing. I was not obligated in any way to write a blog post or share about this pattern.)

Hello there! It’s been a minute or two. August has been all about spending time with my son before school started. After nearly a month off of sewing and blogging, I’m feeling recharged and ready to hit the ground running. First up, it’s time I told you about these pants I made back in July. They’re a hack of the newly released Threadbear Garments Frisco Jumpsuit. I’ve been waiting to share this post until I took styled photos of the actual jumpsuit I made during testing. Alas, that doesn’t seem to be happening so I decided to just go for it. Let’s get down to the details.

Fabric

Earlier this year, I made a Five Points Blouse (the one I’m wearing in these photos) using the navy stripe Verona Voile by Telio Fabrics. After a few months of wear, I loved the fabric so much that I decided to order more in a new color. I purchased this deep olive stripe cotton/rayon voile from Fabric.com via Amazon. The fabric feels so lightweight that sometimes I have to double check I’m actually wearing clothing. Basically, it’s a summer dream.

Sizing

During testing I discovered that Leslie’s pattern block happened to fit quite well with few alterations. For this project, I sewed a straight size 10 with 3 inches added to the leg length.

Hacking the Jumpsuit into Pants

This “hack” is actually such a breeze that I feel almost embarrassed to call it a pattern hack. Want to make your own Frisco pants? Just follow the next few steps:

  1. Grab your pattern pieces for the pant legs, waistband, and pockets.
  2. Remove length from the rise. I chose to remove 1″ from both the front and back rise. In a jumpsuit, you sometimes need that extra length for ease of movement, etc. Unless you want your pants to be suuuuuper high-waisted, removing a bit of length is a necessity.
  3. Sew pockets and pant legs as directed in pattern.
  4. Assemble waistband and facing and sew waist tie as directed in pattern.
  5. Place your waistband and waistband facing right sides together. Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, sew the top of the waistband and facing together. Turn right side out and press.
  6. Baste the bottom of your waistband pieces together.
  7. Making sure the outside of your waistband (not the facing) is against the right side of your pants, align notches and attach waistband to pants with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Finish raw edge as desired.
  8. Follow pattern instructions for inserting the waistband elastic and hemming.

Not too difficult, right?

Final Thoughts

Since I still haven’t fallen in love with shorts, dresses and lightweight pants are my lifeline in the summer heat. These Frisco Pants in cloud-like voile were a welcome wardrobe addition. In fact, I’ve gotten at least 10-15 wears out of them since making them in July. My favorite way to style them has been the faux jumpsuit look pictured above. A close second would be worn with my Cottesloe Swimsuit for a day spent near the water. As fall approaches, I’m anticipating the olive color to transition well into the season and look forward to playing around with cool weather styling.

The only thing I’d change in another pair would be removing an extra 1/2″ from the front and back rise. This pair sometimes feels a little long in the crotch. Honestly, that’s the only thing I don’t love about these pants. It’s such a small flaw and hasn’t kept me from reaching for my Frisco Pants every time they’re clean. Overall, I’d call them a successful hack.

Thanks for reading!

Posted on

True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper

Hello! Today’s post has been months in the making and I couldn’t be more excited to finally share. I was fortunate enough to be a tester for the True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper. For obvious reasons, I chose to sew the romper view. This romper was sewn way back in February, hung in my closet waiting for a final hem until May , and was finally photographed at the beginning of this month. Was it worth the wait? To me, absolutely! Let’s get to the details.

Fabric

I purchased this teal sand washed rayon from Raspberry Creek Fabrics over a year ago, intending to use it for another project. Instead it turned out to be the perfect fabric for a Shelby. It’s soft, lightweight, and has a price that can’t be beat (especially when a project requires several yards).

Sizing and Alterations

(please note: This was my tester version so some aspects of the final pattern have been changed)

I’ve used several True Bias patterns and generally found Kelli’s measurement charts to be accurate so I chose my sizing based on the chart. For this version I used a 4 at the bust, graded to an 8 at the waist, and a 10 at the hips. I added 1″ to the bodice length (which I don’t actually think was necessary here) and 2″ to the length of the legs. Next time (which I’m planning on), I will address the tightness in the arms which is likely due to my need for a full bicep adjustment and not a pattern issue. This particular fabric is actually quite forgiving so the sleeves are still plenty comfortable as-is despite looking quite tight.

My one other alteration was adding inseam pockets. I drew my own pockets and accidentally made them a bit small for my liking. Next time I’ll make them bigger and place them about 2 inches higher. They add some bulk at the hips, which is likely why pockets aren’t included in the pattern. If you’re a pocket lover, don’t let that deter you from the pattern as adding inseam pockets is a simple alteration with plenty of great resources available to walk you through the process.

Construction

I think it’s been mentioned in previous posts but, I’m not actually a quick sewer. Although my efficiency has improved over the years, there are just some things that can’t be rushed. Assembling the pattern took a good 45 minutes, cutting it took about 1 hour, and sewing took approximately 6 hours. The most difficult part of construction was attaching the facing without stretching the neckline or center front pieces. As long as you’re not using a terribly difficult fabric; it’s a feat that’s mildly simple to achieve. With that, I would recommend this pattern to an advanced beginner or intermediate sewist.

Final Thoughts

Why has a pattern like this just now entered my life? This Shelby Romper combines the breezy feel and feminine style of a dress with the practicality of pants. I wore it to church a couple weeks ago and have never felt more comfortable while teaching a class of three year olds. This was perfect for keeping me covered while allowing for the movement and fun that comes with entertaining young children. Mothers of my class gave compliments on the style and practical use of such a garment. It’s gold, I tell you, pure gold.

Wearing and writing about my Shelby has me daydreaming of my next version. I’m thinking knee length with some sort of hacked long sleeve. Paired with booties and possibly tights it would be a 90’s dream come true. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m off to source the perfect fabric…

Thanks for reading!

Posted on

Ace and Jig Inspired Zadie Jumpsuit

Oooooookay, get ready for a photo overload because this Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit is the most “me” thing I’ve ever made and I’m in love. I mean, the woman in these photos is who I am (style-wise) in my dreams. Just a jumpsuit wearing, hat sporting, smiling woman casually strolling through the great outdoors. Forgive me if I can’t adequately communicate my feelings in this post. Hopefully the photos will fill in where my words fail.

Inspiration

Ace and Jig is a company that’s inspiring not only for their designs, and unique fabrics but also for their core values. I’m sure they’re already on your radar, but if not, check them out. While I adore the company, I know I’m not alone in saying that I just don’t have upwards of $300 to spend on one item of clothing that may or may not fit my unique body type. Considering my height of 5’10” and hips that are 3-4 sizes larger than my bust, a well-fitting ready-to-wear jumpsuit is something I’ve never found. Last year when browsing Pinterest, I came across this Ace and Jig Wrap Jumper and knew it was something I wanted to recreate for my wardrobe. The comparison below illustrates how differences between these two jumpsuits give them a similar vibe while still maintaining their own unique features. We’ll call them jumpsuit cousins.

Inspiration image found here

Fabric

It’s no secret that I’m a bit of an Anna Maria Horner superfan (just click the Anna Maria Horner tag at the bottom of this post and you’ll see what I mean). While I’ve pretty much never met an AMH fabric I didn’t like, her Loominous and Loominous II lines will forever be favorites. Both lines consist of multiple patterns made with 100% cotton yarn-dyed woven fabric. Green is my preferred color and I love the dimension the mustard and teal dots add to the forest green background. In order to make this jumpsuit, I purchased 5 yards of Slightly in Forest from Flying Bulldogs on Etsy. That amount turned out to be plenty and when all was said and done, I had about 1 yard left over. Now, what should I do with that extra yard?

Sizing and Alterations

This version is my second Zadie Jumpsuit after making a wearable muslin from a rayon poplin. My first version included all my regular alterations and kept the wide legs as drafted. I made a few changes to this second version so let’s get to it.

As far as sizing for this version goes, I chose a size 8 at the chest and graded to a 12 at the hips and below. I added 1/2″ of length to the bodice and 4 inches of length to the legs. Next time I’ll likely add an extra inch for a total of 5 inches added to the legs.

To achieve my desired look, I also tapered the the legs. Starting just below the crotch curve, I slightly angled each side seam until I’d taken them in by 2 and 5/8″ on each side of both the front and back pieces (that’s a total of 10 and 1/2″ taken out of each leg at the bottom near the hem).

Construction

The only closure on the Zadie Jumpsuit is the tie front, making construction quick and mostly painless. This was sewn in small increments over about three days’ time. The only difficulty I encountered were a few spots on my bias binding where I didn’t quite catch the back side. I simply fixed those two areas (each shorter than an inch) and didn’t even bother unpicking the first set of stitches because they’re hardly noticeable. If someone is getting that close to my chest, an extra row of stitching will be the least of their worries.

My only change to the construction was in the hem finishing. The pattern instructs that the sleeve hems are just turned in 1cm which would leave a raw or exposed serged edge on the inside of the hems. Instead I chose to turn the hems inside by 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ so the serged sleeve edges are completely enclosed. This is simply personal preference, not a necessity. I just thought it provided a more professional looking finish.

Conclusions

The Zadie Fever is a sewing community phenomenon for good reason. Both of my versions are the most comfortable woven jumpsuits in my decent sized jumpsuit collection. The pattern is a quick, simple sew with big impact results. If I make this pattern again, I may try to convert the pleats in the back bodice and back pant into darts. I’m not in love with the bulk of the pleats but, it’s not a deal breaker for me either. These jumpsuits will no doubt be worn to death over the summer months. I’m also looking forward to working them into my wardrobe year-round. With those thoughts, I’ll conclude today’s jumpsuit lovefest. Now, I’m off to work on my next project which also includes AMH Loominous fabric and inspiration from Ace and Jig. See you Monday with the details.

Posted on

Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit

Hello! What a week it’s been! I’ve been hosting Nicole’s Birthday Jumpsuit Bash over on Instagram and it’s felt like a whirlwind of giveaways, jumpsuits, and sewing. Yesterday was my actual birthday and I wanted something extra special to wear for a night out. After hemming and hawing for a few weeks about the perfect outfit, I saw Sweet Shard’s Sirocco Jumpsuit Review. I was sold. The Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit would be this year’s birthday suit.

Fabric Choice

Once my pattern decision was made, I set out to scour the internet for the perfect fabric. Honestly, I didn’t have to look far because I had seen Tessa of SewSpoke (on Instagram) make a stunning jacket using a Lady McElroy floral scuba. I went to her source, La Mercerie, and decided this Bold Botanical Scuba was the one. I purchased 2.5 yards and anxiously awaited its arrival. I usually steer clear of anything containing polyester (except for swim) but make the occasional exception for vibrant scuba knits and a beautifully printed polyester crepe. When this fabric arrived, I knew it was worth making an exception. The dimensionality and details of this fabric are nearly impossible to capture in a photo. It’s beautiful and comfortable although the polyester content will restrict this to a spring/fall or evening outfit as I would wither from the heat wearing a polyester jumpsuit in the summer.

Construction and Pattern Details

The Sirocco Jumpsuit features a crossover front, large pockets, a pleated bodice, and a small waistband. There are no closures making it a fairly quick sew. I printed and taped the pattern on Tuesday, cut it out on Wednesday morning, and did most of the sewing on Wednesday afternoon. I did spend about an hour yesterday morning ripping out a bit of the front waistband seam and adjusting the front pant darts for a better fit (they were angling out odd; something I will explain when I discuss fitting in the next section). I spent more time adjusting the fit (due to my own mistake) than actually sewing this jumpsuit. Next time I make this pattern, I’m assuming that it should come together easily in an afternoon or evening.

Fitting

Ah, fitting: The reason I sew and also my least favorite part of the sewing process. First, I made my usual adjustments: Added 1/2″ to the bodice and rise and another 1″ to the leg length. According to the Sirocco measurement chart, my bust is a size 36 with my waist and hips being a size 42. I was nervous about the negative ease in the waistband and the scuba not having enough stretch. As such I decided to size up to a 38 in the bust graded to a 44 at the hips and grading back down to a 36 in the legs. This turned out to be wholly unnecessary.


Once I sewed up the side seams, I found that the jumpsuit was huge! I started taking in the side seams 1/4″ at a time until I achieved the correct fit. The fit was better after taking in the first 1/4″ but still looking proportionally wrong for my body. Again, I started at the top of the side seam tapering to another 1/4″ in (for a total of a 7/8″ seam allowance) at the waist and hips. In the end, I also took an extra 2″ out of the legs (1 and 3/8″ seam allowances at the leg side seam and inseam) before calling the fit good.

Overall, I was happy with the fit but left with one dilemma: the front pant pleats were angling out towards my hips creating a triangle shape. It was not a shape I personally wanted so I set out to fix it. I determined that all of my tinkering with the fit had messed with the position of the pleats. In an effort to remedy this, I ripped out the waist seam just above each of the front pant pleats and pulled the corners of the pleats up into the seam until the pleats were straight down instead of angled out (the corner of the pleats nearest the pocket openings ended up pulled up into the seam by about 1″). With that minor fix. My birthday outfit was complete.

Final Thoughts

After wearing my Sirocco for a night out I think it’s safe to say that it was a hit. I got quite a few compliments, was extremely comfortable, and was able to fully enjoy the chicken and fries I ordered at the comedy club without the worry of my pants feeling too tight. That is always a win. I’d like to try this pattern again in something with maybe a cotton or rayon content for more breathability in the summer. My one qualm is that the waistband does pull a bit in some parts due to the weight of the fabric. I’m wondering if securing it with clear elastic (like the waistband on a knit dress) would help with this issue at all. If you have any tips for that I’d love to hear them. Overall, the pattern was great and worked well with my chosen fabric. It’s certainly one I would recommend and plan to try again.

Posted on

Jean Paul Coverall by Ready to Sew

Hello! If you follow me over on Instagram (@nf_merritts), you may know that I’m celebrating all week with Nicole’s Birthday Jumpsuit Bash. I’ve loved the idea of jumpsuits for years but, wasn’t able to wear ready to wear jumpsuits without serious discomfort due to my long torso. Two years ago I sewed my first jumpsuit (an Anza Jumpsuit) and fell in love. Since then my handmade jumpsuit collection has grown by a few each year. This Ready to Sew Jean Paul Coverall is the fifth addition to my growing collection. I was enamored with the pattern upon its release last year and have been patiently biding my time until I could make a spring/summer appropriate version. The time has come and I’ll probably live in these for the foreseeable future. Are you ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Fabric Choice

When planning this make I had a vision of spring and summer days spent outside with my son. As such, I needed a fabric that would be light and comfortable. After a bit of deliberation and some help from Erin (@erinalwayssews) I settled on this Tencel Twill in Ginger from Imagine Gnats (they were kind enough to provide this fabric for me as part of my Birthday Jumpsuit Bash). The fabric turned out to be everything I was hoping and more. The fabric has beautiful drape, is slightly easier to sew than rayon, and the color is even lovelier in person. All the online raving about tencel twill is true. This was my third time working with the substrate and it’s a dream every time.

Pattern Details and Construction

The Jean Paul Coverall and its expansion are jam packed with interesting details. In fact, this was probably one of the most time consuming clothing items I’ve ever sewn. There are large pockets on front and back, button plackets, a front and back pleat detail, front fly, ample topstitching, a drawstring waist (from the expansion),and a collar. Making this was equivalent to the work it takes to make both jeans and a button up shirt. The effort was 100% worth it as I plan to never take this off.


While this jumpsuit was a ton of work, it was also a satisfying sew. Topstitching is one of my favorite sewing tasks and I got a decent amount of practice as almost every detail is carefully topstitched. It also made fixing my mistakes take a bit longer. I got cozy with the seam ripper a few times redoing the collar and fixing the button plackets. I’ve made at least 30 collars and button plackets over the years and occasionally still make mistakes. Honestly, neither looked awful before but they weren’t quite to my standard either. I debated leaving my mistakes but with a project this time consuming, it was worth the extra minutes to redo those imperfections and love the final product.

Speaking of imperfections, there is one on this jumpsuit that I couldn’t correct. That issue is the twisting on my right leg. My left leg is just fine without any real twisting so I know that the issue lies with me and not with the pattern. Twisting usually occurs in pants when the legs weren’t cut on the proper grain. As careful as I try to be this does occasionally happen when cutting in a double layer. Note to self: Always cut pants in a single layer. The issue wasn’t noticed until one of my later try-ons and by then it was too late to do much about it beyond completely scrapping those pieces. It doesn’t affect the comfort of this outfit and likely won’t be noticed by anyone who doesn’t sew so I won’t let it bother me too much and just chalk it up to a lesson learned.

Fitting

According to the sizing chart, my measurements put me at a size 38 bust, and size 42 at the waist and hips. This made grading fairly simple. Just below the bust darts I began grading the pattern to a 42 waist. On the pattern pieces it seemed like a steep angle but ended up looking just fine in the final product. Other fitting adjustments I made were adding 1/2″ to the rise on the front and back pants and 2″ to the length. I also added 1/2″ in length to both the front and back bodice pieces. Being able to add length is what drew me to sewing my own jumpsuits. Nobody deserves to be left out of jumpsuit wearing because their torso is longer, shorter, rounder, or thinner than the “standard” sizing for ready to wear clothing.


One last fitting modification was tapering the legs a bit. My calves and ankles are a good 2 sizes smaller than my waist and hips. It used to be something that made me quite self conscious as I was sometimes teased about walking on toothpick legs. Once I became an adult and realized a person’s body shape or size has exactly zero to do with thier worth, those kind of comments stopped bothering me. Ok, back to the leg tapering. I first basted the pant sides as is. Honestly it didn’t look bad but was a bit frumpy due to my proportions. Starting just under the front pockets I ended up tapering the seam until I had taken it in an extra 1/2″ at the bottom of the legs. This extra 1/2″ taken out of a seam meant that the bottom of the legs were taken in by about 2″. The taper isn’t so extreme as to make the pants uncomfortable but, just enough to feel proportional to my body.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I’m happy with this make although there is some noted room for improvement in my next version. Next time I’ll budget more time for the construction, cut the leg pieces in a single layer and pay more careful attention to the fly (it looks nice, just not quite perfect). Next time I sew this pattern I plan to make the dress version possibly in a rayon/linen blend. Although I honestly wouldn’t be opposed to sewing this same version in a rainbow of tencel twill (I have my eyes on this Mallard color from Imagine Gnats). After sewing for years and making a myriad of projects, it’s nice to make something that humbles me again. Sometimes I overestimate my skill and underestimate the time something will take. This was one of those times. This project doesn’t actually take significant skill, just a willingness to slow down and take your time while sewing. My mistakes don’t make me like this garment any less, in fact, they make me thankful for the lessons learned and I still plan to wear the heck out of this thing.

Posted on

Orchid X Parasol Jumpsuit Collaboration by Chalk and Notch and Ensemble Patterns

Happy Wednesday! This Wednesday is an especially good one because I get to share my latest jumpsuit with you. Last month, Gabriela of Chalk and Notch invited me to be a tester for this  Orchid Midi and Parasol Jumpsuit collaboration with Celina of Ensemble Patterns. When I found out this collaboration included a jumpsuit, my answer was an emphatic “Yes!” I can’t put into words, why I feel so strongly about jumpsuits except to say that they make me feel like my best and most true self. Couple that with the fact that I never regret sewing up one of Gabriela’s designs, and testing this jumpsuit was a no-brainer.

First, let’s chat fabric choice. I currently have three other jumpsuits in my wardrobe, all of which are quite bold in color and/or pattern. This time, I opted to make a simple black jumpsuit. With the holiday season around the corner, I wanted something both elegant and fun for parties or date nights. The fabric is a linen/rayon blend purchased from JOANN. I can’t seem to find the exact fabric online, but it does seem to be available in most of their brick and mortar locations. It has just enough weight to be opaque, more drape than a 100% linen, and the light, soft feel of linen. I’ve been hoarding several yards of it since spring when I was able to purchase it for $7/yd. It’s become a favorite for making wearable muslins and finished products alike. 

Now that I’ve raved about fabric, let’s move on to talking about this dreamy mash-up. This collaboration includes 3 bodice options, 3 pant length options, and 1 skirt option. I opted for the long sleeved Orchid bodice paired with the Parasol long pants option. I also chose to add belt loops and the waist tie.

The way the bodice pieces are gathered and attached to the front and back yokes is one of my favorite features. It’s a simple, feminine detail that feels just right. You may have noticed that I’ve been having moment with wide-leg pants and the pants on this jumpsuit fit in nicely with my latest makes. The final feature that sold me on this pattern is the roomy pockets. Nothing ruins my day faster than putting on a one-piece outfit and realizing it has no pockets. Ok, so maybe it doesn’t ruin my day, but I don’t like it either. 

The wrap front makes adding a closure unnecessary; which makes for a delightfully quick sew. It can, however cause a bit of difficulty when getting undressed. After a couple years of jumpsuit wearing, I’ve come to the conclusion that a well-fitting jumpsuit simply takes a bit of practice to get on and off. Over the years, I’ve developed a technique I like to call the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” First, you will have a side of the jumpsuit that seems easier to get on or off. Usually this is the side that wraps over the top. On my jumpsuit, this is my right side. I drop my right shoulder, and using my left hand, gently tug on the sleeve until it is off my shoulder. I then remove my right arm from the sleeve. Dropping your left shoulder, and using your right hand, repeat for your left side. Once you’ve freed your arms, I’ll let you figure out the rest. Now you know the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” We can all try the dance (while keeping our jumpsuits on) with a virtual Instagram dance party celebrating the release of this collaboration. Just post a video on your grid or stories and tag me @nf_merritts on IG and #thejumpsuitshimmy . There are no prizes in it for you or me, but a 100% guarantee of fun and laughter. Join me? 

Whenever I wear a jumpsuit, someone will ask the inevitable question: “What do you do when you have to visit the bathroom?” Ladies and jumpsuit-loving gentlemen, I am here to tell you that the bathroom conundrum really isn’t as much of an issue as you might think. Sure, having your top half uncovered while using the restroom may not be ideal, but it’s literally 1 minute of your day. Are you willing to give up the joy of jumpsuits for a few minutes of awkwardness ( in which nobody else will actually care or notice because you’re by yourself in a stall)? I say, “No!” Honestly, does anyone truly feel comfortable in a bathroom stall any way? Jumpsuit or no jumpsuit? I’ll step off my soapbox here. I’m just really passionate about jumpsuits, ok? 

I’m now realizing that I’ve rambled on and on without notes on sizing. I’ll leave you with a few notes. My measurements put me in a 4 at the chest and a 10 at the hips. In order to make this jumpsuit work, I started with a 4 at the shoulders and bust then graded the bodice to a 10 at the waist. I then cut a straight 10 for the pants. I added 1″ in length to the bodice, 1/2″ to the rise on the pants, 1″ to the sleeve length, and 3″ to the pant length. These alterations are all standard for me, and I found the original drafting consistent with the size chart. 

If you’ve made it all the way to the end here, I’d just like to say, “Thank you!” My feelings about jumpsuits can be intense and I truly applaud you for reading all the way to the end. 

Special thanks to my Instagram (and real life) husband, Marshall for taking these photos. He’s been stepping up his photo taking skills over the last year and it’s been a lot of fun learning this photography thing together.