Sew Some Fancy Pants : New Pant Sewing Pattern Round Up

Hello fellow sewists of the internet! It’s been a bit and I’m not even sure I know how to write a blog post anymore. The last six months have been a wild ride and unfortunately sewing and blogging had to be put on the back burner so that I could teach my son, parent in a pandemic, maintain a smaller workload and provide support to loved ones. None of these are bad things and I’m grateful for the opportunities I’ve had to do all of them.

However, I’ve missed being actively engaged in the sewing community and especially missed Sew Fancy Pants and hosting/co-hosting the event this year. Up until fall of 2020, I’d still planned to host a Sew Fancy Pants 2021 event and had been rounding up new pants patterns in anticipation of doing so.

So, here’s a round up of newer pants patterns as of January 2021. This is not an exhaustive list and I’m sure there are great patterns I’ve missed. If there’s a pattern you think I should include please leave a comment below or feel free to contact me.

Note: after feedback from last year’s post, I’ve decided to include min-max waist and hip measurements as well as only including patterns that go up to at least a 57” hip.

NEW PANTS PATTERN ROUND UP

Jeans

Almost no pants are more iconic than jeans. Thanks to the world of indie sewing patterns, sewing jeans is more accessible than ever and easier than one might think!

Noice Jeans by Muna and Broad: I’ve loved watching Leila and Jess work on this pattern throughout the year! With a high waist and a wide leg or more traditional “mom jean” style straight leg, these jeans have both versatility and practicality. Size Range – Waist: 36”-60” (91-152 cm) Hip: 41.5”-71.5” (105-182cm) Note: Muna and Broad has a policy where they’ll grade a pattern to your size if your measurements are currently outside the upper end of their size range. Anyone can support this effort by supporting them on Patreon.

Halfmoon 101 Jeans by Halfmoon Atelier: The Halfmoon 101 jeans are designed with a low rise and straight leg, perfect for those who just don’t love a high waisted jean. Details Size Range – Waist: 23.5-56.75” (60-144 cm) Hip: 33.75-67” (86-170 cm)

Mountain View Pull on Jeans by Itch to Stitch: While not a new pattern, the Mountain View Jeans were updated over the last year to include a larger range of sizes. If you’d like to dip your toes into jeans sewing, love stretch denim and closures like zippers and buttons aren’t your jam, these might be a great place to start. Size Range – Waist: 25.38-54.25” (64.5-138 cm) Hip: 33-62” (84-157.5 cm)

Claryville Jeans by Workroom Social: The Claryville Jeans were actually re-released in late 2019 but I neglected to include them in last year’s round up and decided they deserve a mention. With a classic mid rise and straight leg, they’re on my personal to-sew list. Size Range – Waist: 25.5-48.5” (64.8-123.2 cm) Hip: 37-60” (94-152.4 cm)

Beginner Friendly/Elastic Waist Pants:

I can’t remember who said it, but I heard another sewist refer to elastic waist pants as “soft pants” and it’s my favorite description. Soft pants have been part of my everyday wardrobe for the last year and I love how they’re also a great way to get into sewing pants.

Arden Pants by Helen’s Closet: The Arden pants are a classic high waisted casual pant with a slightly tapered leg or jogger style cuffs. Size Range – Waist: 24-48” (61-122 cm) Hip: 33-58” (84-147.5cm)

Arthur Pants by Sew Liberated: If you’re looking for a casual statement pant, look no further than the Arthur pants. With a front fly pleated view or gathered elastic waist view, these pants have volume for days and I really want to make a pair. Size Range – Waist 25-48.5” (64-123 cm) Hip: 33.5-57” (85-145 cm)

Arenite Pants by Sew Liberated: The Arenite Pants are hands down my favorite pants in my wardrobe. The pattern has been around for a few years but was just recently updated with a larger size range and with a knit option. I’m thrilled that more sewists will get to experience the joy of my favorite deep roomy pockets. Size Range – Waist: 25-52.5” (64-133 cm) Hip: 33.5-61” (85-155 cm)

Opal Pants by Megan Nielsen Patterns: The Opal pants are high waisted with options for a paper bag waist or regular waistband and tapered or wide legs. Size Range – Waist: 24-48” (61-122 cm) Hip: 34-58” (86-147 cm)

All Well Studio Pants: The All Well studio pants feature a flat front or traditional elastic waist, tapered leg and two pocket options, perfect for those wanting to dip their toes into the world of pants making. Another thing that’s fantastic about this pattern is the “pay what you can” pricing which makes them accessible to more sewists across the board. Size Range – Waist: 24-60” (60.5-152 cm) Hip: 34-70” (86-177.5 cm)

Pio Pants by Ready to Sew: The Pio Pants are another high waisted elastic pant with roomy pockets. Size Range – Waist: 24.2-48.8” (61.5-124 cm) Hip: 35-59.4” (89-151 cm)

Papao Wrap Pants by Ready to Sew : Another statement pant, the Papao Pants are a tapered leg wrap style pant with a tie closure (no buttons or zippers, yay!). Size Range – Waist: 24.2-48.8” (61.5-124 cm) Hip: 35-59.4” (89-151 cm)

Willandra Pants by Muna and Broad: The Willandra Pants are a slightly dressier elastic waist pant with a flat front, tapered leg, and a diagonal side seam that adds a special bit of visual interest. Size Range – Waist: 36”-60”” (91-152cm) Hip: 41.5”-71.5” (105-182cm)

Sculthorpe Pants by Muna and Broad: The Sculthorpe Pants feature a tapered leg, deep v-shaped side pockets and a fully elasticated waist. Size Range – Waist: 36”-60”” (91-152cm) Hip: 41.5”-71.5” (105-182cm)

Trousers:

While trousers likely weren’t the most worn pants of the last year, I’m hopeful that in the next year, we’ll have more opportunities to wear such fancy pants.

Nita Trousers by Amy Nicole Studio: The Nita Trousers are a classic tapered leg trouser with one view. They include all the trouser essentials: front pleats, slash pockets, and back welt pockets. Size Range – Waist: 24-50.5” (61-128.3 cm) Hip: 34.5-61” (87.6-155 cm)

Cass Pant by Make by TFS: The Cass pant is another single view trouser pattern with a mid rise, zip front, and wide leg. Size Range – Waist: 22.4-51.8” (57-131.5 cm) Hip: 34.3-62.8” (87-159.5 cm) Note: This is another pattern company who will grade the pattern to your size if you fall outside their current size range. More details can be found in the pattern listing.

Jumpsuits/Misc:

Nova Jumpsuit by True Bias: Looking for a comfy, casual stay at home uniform? The Nova is a relaxed fit jumpsuit that just may fit the bill. Size Range – Waist: 26-50.5” (66-128 cm) Hip: 34-59.5” (86-151 cm)

Patsy Overalls by Ready to Sew: Featuring a slightly gathered top, tie closure, large pockets, and relaxed fit, the Patsy Overalls look like the perfect overall pattern for a beginner or someone looking for a more casual overall. Size Range – Waist: 24.2-48.8” (61.5-124 cm) Hip: 35-59.4” (89-151 cm)

Sundial Leggings by Greenstyle Creations: Leggings are the perfect option for those who want to sew leg coverings without worrying too much about fitting as knit fabrics can be quite forgiving. The Sundial Leggings have a lower rise v-shaped waistband or full coverage full waistband with no side seam. Size Range – Waist: 22-57” (55.8-144.7 cm) Hip: 32-62” (81.3-157.5 cm)

Chandler Pants and Heather Blazer bundle by Untitled Thoughts and Friday Pattern Company: Ok, I know this isn’t exclusively pants but, after a year spent mostly in loungewear I’m dreaming of dressing up in a full suit. This combination seems like a great way for beginners and more experienced sewists that want the look of a suit without much tailoring work. I’m thinking they’d make a great non-birthday suit, birthday suit. Maybe manifesting that here means I might actually start on this by April? Pants Size Range – Waist: 24-50” (60.9-127 cm) Hip: 34-58” (87-148 cm) Blazer Size Range – Chest: 32-60” (81-152 cm)

Thank you for reading!

July 9, 2020

Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project: Free Range Slacks and Pipit Loungewear Top

Hello! Today I’m excited to share with you the first two completed items of my Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project. Over the last week I was able to sew up the Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks and Common Stitch Pipit Loungewear Set top in Matinee in Earth. I used 5 yards of the 45″ wide fabric to complete both projects. I’m going to be swanning around in this all summer but, before I do that, let’s get to the details.

Pipit Loungewear Top

The Pipit Loungewear set top has been on my to-sew list for a while. Combined with Warp and Weft fabric, it’s giving off some serious fancy pajama vibes. In this particular time, fancy pajamas are exactly the wardrobe aesthetic to which I’m aspiring.

Sizing and Alterations

Based on the finished garment measurements, I chose to sew a size 6 top. As far as flat pattern alterations, I added 2 and 3/4 inches to the length of both the bodice and sleeve lengths. There aren’t lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern pieces so I just arbitrarily picked a place about 2-3 inches below the armpit to cut a straight line and add the length.

Construction

I somewhat closely followed the pattern instructions and was able to sew this top in about 3.5 hours of total sewing time. It’s a straightforward sew, however I did make some slight changes to fit my personal preferences. First, I topstitched the facing down along the back neckline to keep it from flipping to the outside. Second, I altered the construction of the sleeve cuff. In the pattern it instructs you to press the long ends in by 3/8″ (1cm), sandwich the unsewn sleeve bottom between those edges, and topstitch in place. Then, you attach the sleeve and stitch the underarm seam. I opted for a cleaner finish on the top and used a construction method similar to the cuffs on the Chalk and Notch Fringe. If I would’ve thought ahead, I would’ve snapped pictures as I worked but I’ll do my best to describe it instead. Here’s what I did:

Attach sleeves to top without cuffs. Sew underarm seam.
Press cuff in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Unfold.
Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, stitch short sides of cuff piece together to form a circular piece.
Press one long side of the cuff to the wrong side by 3/8″ (1cm).
Right sides together and using a 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance, stitch the unpressed edge of your cuff to the sleeve edge. Press seam towards cuff.
Fold cuff to the inside of sleeve. Pin your previously pressed edge from step 4 to just barely cover the stitching (from step 5) on the inside of your sleeve.
Stitch in the ditch where sleeve is attached to cuff. Make sure to catch folded edge of cuff in your stitching.

That’s it. Finish pattern steps for attaching buttons and finishing the hem and your top is done. Yay!

Free Range Slacks

These Free Range Slacks marked my second time making this pattern (see my first pair here) and I can’t decide which pair I love more. The weight of this Warp and Weft fabric seems especially suited to this style of pant. In fact, upon finishing these, I nearly abandoned all my other capsule plans to make a pair in every fabric.

Sizing and Alterations

Sizing was easy since I already figured that out on my first pair and went ahead making the same flat pattern alterations which were: selecting a size 10 then adding 1/2″ to the rise and 1.5″ to the leg length. Due to the narrower width (44″) of this fabric, I did have to make the pants 1/2″ shorter at the hem to accommodate those horizontal stripe side panels.

Construction

Handmade pants are my favorite sewing project and stitching up these was no exception. The simple lines and elastic waist meant I had these sewn up in about 3 hours (which is quite fast for me).

Final Thoughts

I’m just not sure how many more ways I can articulate how much I love this set. Together the Pipit Loungewear Top and Free Range Slacks feel like an outfit right out of an Ace and Jig listing or like something I would wear in the evenings to relax at some swanky resort ( a girl can dream, right?). Separately, each piece makes a statement on its own. The pants are equally cute styled with a basic tee and the top would be a great complement to a simple pair of jeans. You’ll be seeing these around and I can’t wait to pair them with future additions to my Warp and Weft Wardrobe.

Thank you for reading!

P.S. Notice those cute shoes? Can you believe I made them? I mean, I can hardly believe it but if you want to read more, head to this post for the low down.

February 17, 2020

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Hello! After posting regularly during January, it feels like it’s been a minute. I cut these Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks during the last week of Sew Fancy Pants, sewed them the following week, and finally got them photographed last week. There’s been an ebb and flow to my sewing practice as of late. I’m slowly learning to embrace it. Enough about me: Let’s talk about these pants.

Inspiration

I’ve had these Topshop menswear inspired trousers pinned on my sewing inspiration board for several months now. When it came time for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew this was a look I wanted to recreate.

Fabric

Here’s where I sing the praises of Tammy from D & H Fabrics because she’s a master fabric “sourcerer.” Upon emailing back and forth with Tammy, I sent her the above inspiration photo. Within hours, she’d found this fabric and suggested it. This Tencel Pin Stripe Pique has a beautiful, fluid drape and a subtle pique texture that reminds me of a formal button up shirt. It’s lightweight enough for summer wear, while still keeping my legs decently warm in mild winter weather. If it was terribly cold, I’d probably slip on a pair of leggings underneath.

Sizing and Adjustments

Since these are elastic waist pants, I opted for just a few flat pattern alterations. These pants are a size 10 with 1/2″ added to the rise and 1.5″ added to the leg length. The only adjustment made during construction was slightly tapering the inseam by about 1/8″ near the ankles. This took out a total of 1/4″ from the leg width.

Construction

Construction was done in 30-45 minute sessions over the course of about 5 days. I didn’t keep an accurate count of time but, would estimate the total sewing time to be just over three hours. Instructions were straightforward with no major sewing hiccups throughout the process. It was a truly enjoyable change of pace after sewing two pairs of jeans in row.

Final Thoughts

I fell asleep in these pants the other day which either speaks to their extreme comfort level or my exhaustion level. Let’s go with the comfort narrative because they’re divine.

My biggest qualm with these pants is the waistband. The elastic I used is likely too soft for the weight of a pair of pants and tries to roll despite being stitched in place at the seams. I’m considering going back and zig-zagging through the elastic for more of a shirred waistband look. This would also solve the problem I have of needing to adjust the waistband gathering every time I stand up. If I made this pattern again, my one other adjustment will be to interface the pocket facing. One of my pocket openings got a little stretched out during construction and doesn’t quite lay flat against my body. It’s not terribly noticeable in this fabric, just something I would change for future pairs.

Overall, I’m happy with the final result of these pants and plan to try this pattern again with the small modifications mentioned above. The fabric feels simultaneously casual and luxurious. In fact, I’m contemplating ordering a bit more to make either a matching top or jacket (Maybe the Helen’s Closet Pona Jacket?). Now that I’ve finished this last pair of pants, I think I’ll wait a month or two before sewing another pair, you know, unless some shiny new pattern catches my eye.

Thanks for reading!

January 29, 2020January 29, 2020

Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Jeans Comparison with Ginger, Dawn, Philippa, and Morgan

The end of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is nigh. While I haven’t felt quite as productive as last year, I’m still proud of what I was able to accomplish. My last two completed #sewfancypants2020 projects were a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans and a pair of caramel colored Dawn Jeans. After finishing them, I thought it might be helpful to post a comparison of the four different jeans patterns I’ve sewn. Alright here we go, a brief comparison between the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans, Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants, and Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans.

Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Fitting Adjustments

As far as sizing goes, each pair was made based on the pattern maker’s size chart. They’re all somewhere around a size 12. I used mostly the same flat pattern adjustments for each of these patterns but, I’ll detail them a bit here:

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

1/2″ added to front and back rise. Added 2″ of total length to the legs (1″ above knees and 1″ below).
To fix the gaping at the center back, I took out a small wedge at the center back of the yoke. I drew a line that started 1/2″ away from the top of the center back and angled to the bottom of the center back yoke. I trimmed the yoke pieces along this line and then sewed everything according to the pattern instructions. FYI: this is definitely not the proper or recommended method, just what worked for me personally.

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

3/4″ added to the front and back rise.
Used the longer length inseam option

Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants

1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
Back darts extended by 1/2″
2″ added to leg length
Legs slimmed about 1/2″ total (extra 1/4″ on each side)

Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans

1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
1″ added to leg length.
Removed an extra 1/4″ from the top of the center back seam allowance and angled back to the regular seam allowance just below the back yoke.

Philippa Pants vs. Dawn Jeans

The Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans (view A) are both slightly tapered high rise pants designed for non-stretch fabrics. They’ve got different details but, produce a similar result. For me personally, I found the fit pretty comparable. The details I love about the Philippa Pants are: the generous square back pockets, flat front with no front pockets, and a deep 2″ hem at the bottom. My favorite details about the Dawn Jeans are the traditional jeans details such as the front pockets, coin pocket, and back yoke.

Ginger Jeans vs. Morgan Jeans

While these two patterns are designed from a slightly different block, I decided to compare them since they’re both from Closet Case Patterns. The Ginger Jeans are designed for stretch denim while the Morgan Jeans are designed for non-stretch denim. The high rise skinny fit of the Ginger Jeans feel a bit more dressed up than the mid rise relaxed fit of the Morgan Jeans. During the winter, Ginger Jeans are my go-to with sweaters and boots while the Morgan Jeans were worn weekly during the summer months.

Final Thoughts

I’ll be honest in saying that it’s difficult for me to pick a favorite between these four jeans as it seems to change weekly. Lately, I’ve been wearing the Philippa Pants on repeat but, have a feeling the Dawn Jeans just might be the next favorite. All four pattern designers provide thorough instructions with the Anna Allen zipper instructions using my favorite zip fly method (the Dawn jeans method is similar). Finding the words for this comparison was a struggle for me so, I decided to focus more on the photos to do the talking. Hoping the photos provide some valuable insight into the basic differences between each pair of jeans. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any specific questions about any of these jeans.

Thanks for reading!

January 5, 2020

Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Personal Sewing Plans

Hello! What a wonderful, busy week it’s been. Today I’m sharing one last pattern post as part of Sew Fancy Pants 2020. This post is all about my personal sewing plans for the month. As you read, please keep in mind that I’ve been planning and prepping these projects for months. You do not need to make more than one project to take part in Sew Fancy Pants, in fact, you only need to try and show progress. Post your progress and projects on Instagram using the #sewfancypants2020 and we’ll all celebrate your accomplishments together. Now, here’s what I have planned for the month.

Project 1: Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers

I know, I’ve already shared a post about these pants (original post here) but, I love them so much that they’re worth mentioning. With my son still out of school for the holiday break, I knew sewing time would be short. I needed a quick, easy, win. Knit pants like the Joan Trousers are a great option when you don’t want to fuss too much with fitting details or fancy finishes. If you’re looking for a quick project during the month, the True Bias Hudson Pants and Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings are also good options.

Project 2: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

Since making my first pair of Ginger Jeans in January 2018 (read about my other Ginger Jeans here, here and here) I’ve wanted a true black pair. During Black Friday sales, I purchased a few yards of true black denim from Threadbare Fabrics. A black pair of skinny jeans feels classic. I have a feeling that I’ll continue wearing them long after skinny jeans have gone out of style.

Project 3: Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

Inspired by the (this specific pair) Jesse Kamm Ranger Pant, the Dawn Jeans are a project I’ve wanted to try since last year’s Sew Fancy Pants. I’ll be using light brown cotton twill left over from my most worn pair of Persephone Pants (here) that should work a treat. Hoping they’ll become a fast favorite. This will be the first new-to-me pant pattern of the month, so be prepared for some detailed fitting stories and a Philipa Pant vs. Dawn Jeans comparison coming during week 3.

Project 4: Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Easy to wear woven pants with an elastic waist became wardrobe staples last year. The Free Range Slacks have a side panel detail that closely matches this Pinterest inspiration. I’ll be using a stripe from D & H Fabrics. Looking forward to making this happen at the end of the month.

Project 5 (Stretch Goal): Misusu Patterns Alex Jogger Pants

My son is in desperate need of new sweatpants after growing out of his favorite pairs of True Bias Hudson Pants. If time permits, I’m planning to sew some Misusu Patterns Alex Pants and use scraps to color block a few pairs.

There you have it. I have lofty goals for the month and I’m crossing my fingers that they’ll all come to fruition. Regardless of how the projects go, I’ll share progress here and on Instagram so, stay tuned!

January 1, 2020

Joan Trousers with Bonus Sheridan Sweater

Hello! Wishing you all a happy new year! Yesterday, in an ostentatious end to 2019, I finished my first Sew Fancy Pants project: A pair of polka dotted Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with accompanying Hey June Sheridan Sweater. Now I’m wondering how I’ve lived my life without a matching set such as this one. Read on for all the details.

Fabric

I’ve had my eye on this Double Face Sweater Knit from La Mercerie since Adrianna of Hey June used it for her Evans Blazer sample. I promised myself that if La Mercerie had a Black Friday sale and this was still available then, I could buy it. Thankfully, the fabric gods were on my side and I was able to purchase 3.5 yards.

What’s that? Oh, you noticed those matching earrings? Why, yes. I did make them specifically to match this outfit.

Sheridan Sweater

Adrianna’s Polka Dot Sheridan Sweater (sample in listing photos) was actually the catalyst behind this entire outfit. Upon seeing it, I was smitten with the bell sleeves and couldn’t get the idea of a matching sweater set out of my head. The shape of the sweater combined with this polka dot fabric feels a little bit 1960’s mod and I am here for it.

This Sheridan is view B with bell sleeves. Size is a 6 graded to a 10 at the hips with 1″ of length added to the bodice and sleeves.

Sewing the Sheridan took about two hours including the time it took me to sit down and eat breakfast with my son. Really, it was that easy. Now I need to hurry up and order more of this fabric to make a Sheridan Dress.

Joan Trousers

Friday Pattern Company describes the Joan Trousers as “treggings” (trouser/leggings). It’s an accurate description of a clothing item I didn’t know I needed in my life. They combine the comfort of pajama pants with the look of tailored trousers (pockets! belt loops! faux button front waistband!) Sure, they look more casual in this particular fabric but, in a nice solid ponte or double knit, they’d be office ready in no time.

This time around I used all the same adjustments made to my first pair. Sewed a size large with 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, and 3″ added to the length (Just FYI: since this pattern doesn’t include a lengthen shorten line at the rise, I simply added the 1/2″ to the top of the front and back pieces as well as the pocket and pocket lining pieces). Again, I chose to slightly taper the straight, wide legs for a slight cigarette pant look. These ones are tapered slightly less than my first pair as I was worried about this particular fabric looking like leggings if too slim.

Construction took somewhere between 3-4 hours. This time around, I paid careful attention to my markings and sewing went off without a hitch. Sewing instructions were straightforward with the trickiest part being the attachment of elastic to inner waistband. Sewing might have been even quicker if I hadn’t worn them around for a few minutes while determining a final hem length.

Final Thoughts

Despite the fact that my son called this outfit pajamas (“Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”), I will proudly wear this outfit both separately and together in public. Separately, the trousers will likely be paired with one of my many Nikko Tops for a polished, business casual look. The Sheridan will look just right paired with high waisted jeans or wide leg pants. In fact, I’m just about to try it on with a few pairs of my handmade pants to determine my favorite pairing. Will report back.

Pretty sure this photo was snapped at the exact moment my son said, “Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”

This was my second time sewing up a pair of Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with the intention of a matching set. The first time they were paired with the Hey June Evans Blazer (read more about that set here). Clearly, I have a thing with pairing patterns from the two companies. Perhaps next time, I should mix it up by sewing a pair of Hey June Pants and wearing it with a Friday Pattern Company top? Now, which ones to choose? Adrienne Blouse and Kendrick Overalls? Maybe a Wilder Top and Bryce Cargo Pants? Let me know what you think below!

Thanks for reading!

November 29, 2019

Wedding Ready with the Evans Blazer and Joan Trousers

Hello! This last week has been filled with all kinds of family festivities. Last Saturday we celebrated my brother’s wedding. Following the wedding, my sister and her children came and stayed with us until yesterday. Having children to play with all week was a dream come true for my only child and spending time with my sister was one for me. There were a few minor hiccups when one child got sick in the movie theater (before we knew he was sick), all three children ended up sick, and I put the turkey in the oven one hour late after not setting an alarm. Despite a wild few days, I’m left feeling grateful for family that is down to roll with the punches and take on life’s bumps together. It was a lovely week overall and we’re missing our family already. Enough about my week. Let’s get down to the reason I’m writing this post: My secret pajamas wedding suit.

Fabric

One week before my brother’s wedding, I still had no clue what I wanted to wear. That is, until I was browsing Stylemaker Fabrics and discovered this Dusty Rose Ponte Knit. Inspiration struck and 3.5 yards were ordered.

Joan Trousers

The Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers have been on my to-sew list since I wrote a Sew Fancy Pants Fabric Inspiration (Beginner Edition) post in January. Eleven months later, I purchased the pattern and got to work. Based on my measurements, I cut a Large, added 1/2″ to the rise (there isn’t I lengthen shorten line here so I added it at the top), and added 3″ to the leg length at the lengthen/shorten line. Inspired by bluefloralneedles and pinkcoatclub, the legs were tapered for a cigarette pant vibe.

Sewing the Joan Trousers was quick and relatively painless. Most of the sewing took place one afternoon. I was nearing the finish line when I noticed that I’d accidentally placed the belt loops along the wrong markings. One hour of seam ripping later, the belt loops were correctly attached and I was on my way to a finished pair of pants.

Evans Blazer

Since it’s release, the Hey June Evans Blazer has been near the top of my favorites list. This one didn’t turn out quite as well as I’d like (mostly because this fabric is on the lighter side) but, it’s still wearable, just needs a bit of tweaking.

Based on the size chart, I cut a 6 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. Added 1/2″ of length to the blazer and 1″ of length to the sleeves. Size wise, all of these alterations seemed about right.

Before I get into the issues I had, I want to clarify that the sizing and instructions were accurate and thorough. The following issues had to do with my fabric choice, not the pattern. I fully intend to make this pattern again in a better suited fabric.

First, my fabric is a lightweight rayon/nylon ponte and has a bit of drape. This means the collar doesn’t stay in place on it’s own. I did hand tack a couple of spots on the collar but, they came undone after a bit of dancing and child wrangling. Now that the wedding is over, I plan to go back and hand tack the entire collar.

Second, also due to the lightweight nature of the fabric, my hem had to be sewn by machine. I spent an hour making a hand sewn blind hem on the blazer bottom and it DID NOT look good. While not sold on the visible topstitching, it’s better than what I had before. Perhaps I’ve lost my blind hemming skills after not using them for a while but the small divots made by the blind hem were extremely noticeable in this color and fabric weight. A darker color would likely not have the same result. The visible stitching makes the blazer more casual than intended.

Final Thoughts

Despite my fabric issues with the Evans Blazer, I’m quite pleased with the overall look created here. Many of my brother’s wedding guests complimented my pink pantsuit while the knit fabric kept me comfortable throughout set up, take down, and everything in between. The trousers are bound to become a staple and with a little work, the blazer will become one as well.

Thanks for reading!

October 8, 2019October 8, 2019

Clementine Top and Crew Trousers

Disclosure: The pattern for the Clementine Top was given to me in exchange for a review and I received the Crew Trousers in exchange for my participation in the pattern test (no obligation to promote). All opinions are honest and my own.

Hello all! Today I’ve got a couple of my latest makes to share with you: The Forget Me Not Patterns Clementine Top and the newly released Chalk and Notch Crew Trousers. Combined these two make a look that I’d describe as business casual. My current work environment (as a seamstress and SAHM), only requires that I’m clothed and looking alive for daily activities. However, if I did work outside the home, I have a feeling that this is how I’d want to represent myself. Maybe I’ll pull this out for date night instead. Ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Clementine Top

Fabric

I purchased one yard of this marbled scuba knit from Stylemaker Fabrics (sold out but check out their current selection of scuba knits here) in January 2018. Originally, I intended for it to be a Lodo hacked into a top. It never happened and this fabric languished on my shelf for 18+ months. Fast forward to a few weeks ago when it dawned on me that this scuba would be the perfect pairing for the Forget Me Not Clementine Top. The weight of the scuba gives a modern, stiff drape to the cowl and highlights the structure of the princess seams. Match made in sewing heaven.

Sizing

Based on my measurements, I chose to cut and sew a size 36. Technically, my bust fell in a 34 but, I chose to sew a 36 for simplicity and the sizing turned out great. The photos here don’t highlight it quite as well as I’d like but the fitting on the back is especially fantastic. The princess seams make it fit like a glove with no swayback drooping. My only alteration was adding 1/2″ to the top length at the hems. Other than that, I sewed the pattern up as-is.

Construction

The Clementine pattern instructions were clear and easy to follow. Clear instructions combined with a cooperative fabric made this a quick and simple sew. I spent one afternoon on assembly, then hemmed the top and sleeves the next morning. The cowl neck and princess seams added enough detail to make the sewing process satisfying as well.

Crew Trousers

Fabric

A few weeks ago, along with ladies in my local sewing group the “Salty Sewists,” I made a little afternoon trip to visit Harmony in Provo, Utah. It’s a darling store filled with fabric, yarn, and all the best little gifts packed into a small pioneer age house. Oh, the charm! I picked up this coral pink Tencel Twill and knew it would make the perfect pants. The fabric is opaque, has great drape, AND the front side has a brushed texture that feels suede-like. Working with it was fairly easy, although I did have one spot on the waistband where I accidentally stretched the fabric, creating some small bubbles along the waistband. Luckily, that’s covered by a pretty bow so it’s not really a big deal.

Sizing and Alterations

Over the last few years, I’ve sewn nearly every Chalk and Notch women’s pattern. You could say I’m a bit of a fan. It also means that I trust in Gabriela’s ability to get sizing and measurements right. Based on the measurement chart and Gabriela’s recommendation, I chose a size 10 for the waist and hips then graded to a 6 at the thighs and legs. I also ended up removing about 1/2″ of the width around the ankles for a slightly larger taper. My other adjustments were standard for me: 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, 1″ length added at the above knee lengthen line, and 1/2″ length added at the below knee lengthen line. Just going to take a minute here and stress the importance of lengthen lines above AND below the knee on pants. Everyone’s legs are proportioned differently. My calf length is likely not the same as another person of my height and may be the same as someone shorter or taller. If you are thinking about designing a pants pattern, it will make everyone’s life easier when you include both. There we go. Off my soapbox now.

Construction

Despite sewing 90% of my wardrobe over the last several years, I wouldn’t consider myself a quick sewist. Many experienced sewists can whip up a tee shirt in an hour. Often, it takes me two. Pants are no exception. I’ve made probably 10 pairs over the last year and still find myself taking my time to get each step finished well. With that in mind, sewing these pants took me somewhere between 6-7 hours total.

I sewed these over the course of a day while also taking care of my son, getting him off to school, picking him up, cooking dinner, cleaning dishes, and while sitting across the table from my mother (so I might have gotten distracted with chatting). As per usual, Gabriela’s instructions were concise and included plenty of illustrations. This made inserting a lapped zipper (the hardest part: which is totally doable for an advanced beginner) a breeze.

My favorite detail is in the pocket construction. The pockets are shaped and sewn so that they’re secured at the top of the center front. This makes them stay nicely in place and keeps them from flopping around inside the pants. I didn’t know this was something I needed in trousers until now.

Final Thoughts

Do you have a desire to look semi-professional while still feeling comfortable? If so, this pattern combination just might be the one for you. I know it’s the one for me. If I wasn’t wearing a bra with this outfit, I might have worn it to bed. Seriously, that good. Both patterns felt suitable for the advanced beginner. Instructions were clear and I would gladly recommend both.

Here’s the deal: yes, I received both of the patterns in exchange for either a review or testing but; the time, effort, and cost of fabric used in these projects is worth far more than the price of these patterns. I genuinely like both of these patterns and hope you will too!

Thanks for reading!

September 23, 2019September 23, 2019

#SewFreeFall: Peppermint Wrap Top

Fall is here! The leaves are changing, everything is pumpkin flavored, AND I can walk outside without sweating profusely. The changing of seasons is a glorious time, indeed! It’s inspired me to set a few goals for the last months of the year. One of those goals was to finally sew up some of the free PDF patterns that have been languishing on my hard drive. With that, I present to you #SewFreeFall. Each month I’ll sew up one or two free patterns and share them here. I’ll also include a few round-up posts here and there as I use and discover favorite free patterns (If you’re looking for a pretty exhaustive list, Sew Shannon recently posted an awesome one here). This isn’t a formal challenge as there aren’t currently any prizes to be awarded. Although there aren’t any prizes, I’d love it if you’d join me in sewing up some free patterns. Use the #sewfreefall on IG and share how you’re using free patterns in your fall sewing practice. Who knows? Maybe I’ll get crazy and add in a prize or two at some point.

Peppermint Wrap Top

The first up in my Sew Free Fall queue also happened to be the newest free pattern on my radar; the Peppermint Wrap Top by In the Folds for Peppermint Magazine.

Fabric

This Brussels Washer Linen in Leather Brown has been a favorite since I used some for the Arenite Pants in these photos (original post here). The rayon/linen blend combines the best qualities of each fabric. It has the crinkly texture and breathability of linen with the softness and drape of a rayon. Heaven in a fabric, I tell you. After nearly four months of regular washing and wear, I knew my love for this fabric wasn’t ending any time soon. Once I saw this wrap top pattern, two more yards were quickly purchased.

Sizing and Alterations

Using the measurements provided, I chose to cut a C at the bust graded to a D at the hem. I cut a straight C on the wrap part of the front pieces. The only place I actually graded to a D was on the side seams. As far as fitting goes, the only change I’d make a second time around would be moving the bust darts up about 1/2″ higher. They’re a little low on me as-is. For this version, the dart position didn’t bother me enough to unstitch the french seams. My only other alteration was shortening the sleeves. This decision was made more out of necessity than design choice but, I’m actually quite happy with the result.

Construction

During construction, I closely followed the directions and fully enclosed each seam. The result is a top that is almost as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside. While the instructions were straightforward and decently easy to follow, I would recommend that you read up on french seams if you’ve never done them before. Don’t let that scare you. French seams are one of the easiest ways to get a beautiful seam finish on the inside and I used to teach them to my beginner students when I taught sewing lessons.

If you can set-in a sleeve, sew a french seam, and sew a straight line; you are 100% ready to tackle this wrap top. Taking the time to sew french seams means this wasn’t the quickest sew. However, I was still able to finish it over the course of a couple afternoons.

Final Thoughts

I’ve been dreaming of a linen two-piece set for about a year now. The trickiest issue for me was always deciding on a pattern or fabric combination. When the Wrap Top pattern released, I knew the simple shape and design lines would make an excellent complement to my Arenite Pants. Now, I don’t want to wear anything else. The best part about this outfit is that it gives the look of a jumpsuit while maintaining the option to wear both pieces separately. Three cheers for versatility! It also happens to blend nicely with the background at the park where we snapped these photos. If I played hide-and-seek there, nobody would ever find me.

Overall, I’m delighted with the result of my first Sew Free Fall project. If I make this top again, I’ll address the dart fitting issue but it’s not a big enough one to keep this version from regular wear. The whole outfit is comfortable enough to be criminal. Now, please excuse me while I sew one of these outfits in every available color of Brussels Washer Linen.

Thanks for reading!

September 18, 2019September 18, 2019

2019 Summer Favorites

Most mornings, my son and I walk to school. Over the last few days, I’ve started to feel the cool, crisp air of fall. The appearance of fall weather has me reflecting on summer and the handmade pieces that I found myself wearing again and again. Are you ready for a post with very few styled photos? Yes? Okay! Here’s a rundown of the handmades that got me through Summer 2019.

Pants

You might have noticed that I’m a fan of pants (#sewfancypants, anyone?). I don’t have anything against shorts, I just haven’t made the time to sew some yet. Maybe next summer. The following pants are just so good that I haven’t felt the pull to make shorts.

For me, the pattern of the summer was the Sew Liberated Arenite Pants (with slime leg hack). In May, I sewed my first pair (the ones pictured above) in a rayon/linen from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. I found myself wearing them multiple times each week and reaching for them immediately after they’d come out of the wash. My love for Arenite Pants was compounded when I made my second pair out of a textured Tencel. That pair was worn almost as much as the first. I just don’t have photos because I apparently took less of them as the summer progressed. My go-to styling method was wearing them with a woven cropped top and Saltwater sandals.

1. Tied Mila Shirt and Emerson Pant 2. Fringe Top Hack and Emerson Pant

When I wanted to dress up my summer looks a bit, I often found myself reaching for these high-rise True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. I first blogged about this pair during Sew Fancy Pants in January (original post here). In the winter they looked effortlessly cool paired with a Nikko Top and booties. During the summer, their wide leg shape and the breezy fabric kept me feeling cool. My go-to summer styling for the Emersons was pairing them with a slightly fancier rayon top and shiny flats.

1. RTW tee and Frisco Pants 2. Jersey Popover and Frisco Pants
3. Five Points Blouse and Frisco Pants 4. Cottesloe Swimsuit and Frisco Pants

This pair of pants hacked from the Threadbear Garments Frisco Jumpsuit pattern were an unexpected favorite (more info posted here). Considering the fact that I made these halfway through the summer, these babies got some serious wear. You may notice in the photos above that I didn’t really have a go-to styling method for these pants. Wearing them was more of an “anything goes” situation which was a ton of fun. First, you see my #momstyle. Second, I’m channeling my grandpa. Third, this one feels the most “me.” Fourth, I’m ready for a day of boating. You can see why they got plenty of wear. The possibilities with these pants felt numerous.

Jumpsuits

When it comes to ease of dressing, a jumpsuit is second to none. There’s just something about only having to throw on one clothing item that can’t be beat. I know, I know, you might be thinking, “What about the fact that you basically have to undress to go to the bathroom?” My answer: The all-day comfort of a good jumpsuit is 100% worth the inconvenience. Also, I have a child. Very few things embarrass me anymore.

1. Hampton Jean Jacket and Zadie Jumpsuit 2. Wiksten Haori and Zadie Jumpsuit
3. Zadie Jumpsuit

I grabbed this rayon/poplin Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit whenever I wanted to feel stylish and a little extra confident. It’s versatility proved useful as I wore it on an anniversary date, to my son’s school program, my son’s birthday party, and even to an outdoor work party in 90 degree heat. The pictures above illustrate that versatility. While I enjoyed playing around with styling, I most often found myself just throwing on the jumpsuit and wearing it with a simple pair of sandals.

1. Loominous Zadie Jumpsuit 2. Jean Paul Coverall

I don’t have a large amount to say about the two jumpsuits (Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit and Ready to Sew Jean Paul Coverall) pictured above except to say that I love them and both were also worn regularly. I pretty much styled them the same every time (straw hat + jumpsuit + sandals) so I don’t have many different photos. They also share the same bonus: not having to think about what to wear. I mean, there’s really not much more that I can ask for from an outfit except for style, ease of wear, and comfort.

Dresses and Skirts

Dresses and skirts were a staple of my summer wardrobe in previous years. This year I relied heavily on lightweight pants so these items didn’t get quite as much wear or photographs. Despite the limited amount of wear, they’re still summer favorites worth mentioning. Here’s what I love about them in photo order:

1. Fringe Top Hack and Justine Skirt 2. Scout Tee Swing Dress Hack
3. York Pinafore 4. Tea House Dress

This Ready to Sew Justine Skirt (original blog post here) pairs well with at least half the tops in my wardrobe. It’s casual enough for most any activity and the big pockets are ideal for holding my phone, snacks, a water bottle, or my son’s rock collection.
This Grainline Studio Scout Tee swing dress hack has now kept me cool through four summers (made before I was blogging). It’s not the most well made item in my handmade wardrobe but, easily in the top 10 most worn. It’s been to the amusement park, zoo, church, and even to the pool as a cover-up.
The Helen’s Closet York Pinafore (original post here) is the only skirt/dress item I sewed this year that made the summer favorites cut. Most of the time I paired it with a simple tee shirt and sandals for a cool, casual vibe. The cotton/linen fabric kept it cool and the nice big pockets held everything I needed, eliminating limiting my need for a bag.
The Sew House Seven Tea House Dress (original post here) is possibly one of my favorite dresses I’ve ever made. It has all the ease of a sack dress combined with a tie to add subtle shaping. I feel pretty every time I slip it on. Despite all these details, my favorite one is, you guessed it: the large pockets. Sometimes you just need some “Mary Poppins bag” style pockets.

Swimsuits

1. Cottesloe Swimsuit 2. Pilatus Swimsuit

Two swimsuits were added to my handmade wardrobe this year. Each proved to work well for different situations. The Megan Nielsen Cottesloe (original post here) in ribbed swim knit proved to be the ultimate suit for practicality. I wore it when I knew I’d be running around chasing my son or doing higher intensity water activities like tubing behind a boat. My rainbow striped Opian Pilatus swimsuit (original post here) turned out to be my “fun” swimsuit. I wore this one more often when swimming activities included a lot of laying or sitting around. It made me feel cute, confident, and NOT wanting to hide my body in the water. I didn’t swim a ton, but both have held up well with the use they have gotten.

Most Worn of Summer 2019

Pants, jumpsuits, swimwear, etc. are all great but, my most worn make of the summer is one that I didn’t even sew until July. Since then, my Helen’s Closet Suki Robe (original post here) has been worn almost daily. I throw it on the moment I wake up and wear it until I can no longer delay getting dressed. Honestly, this robe makes me feel like a freaking queen. It’s the first robe I’ve owned since childhood and owning one again seems luxurious. Splendidly, wearing it even makes me enjoy cooking breakfast.