Sew Fancy Pants Project 2: True Bias Emerson Crop Pants

Hello! Happy Sunday all. How is your fancy pants sewing coming along? Today I’m sharing my second finish for #sewfancypants, a pair of True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. As mentioned in my plans and inspiration post, I didn’t give the Emerson pattern much consideration until Kelli released a high-waisted option last fall. Then, I knew they had to happen. I’ve now sewn all the True Bias pant patterns and feel like I’ve achieved some sort of True Bias Trifecta.


Fabric Choice

I knew back in October that I wanted to make these pants, but choosing the perfect fabric took more time than expected. Initially, I had planned to make a solid colored pair in tencel twill or silk noil. I scoured the internet for fabric that would make my heart sing, but kept coming up empty. Finally, in December, I was browsing ‘tencel’ on StyleMaker Fabrics and came upon this Black and White Grid Plaid Tencel. It was the one and I ordered it immediately. Once it arrived, I loved it even more. Between the gridded lines are tiny stripes that add texture and interest to the fabric when seen up close. I cut out these pants at our January sewing night on Thursday and several of the ladies ‘oohed and ahhed’ over it. It has a decent drape, but enough weight to feel comfortable as a pair of pants. The texture makes it a bit less slippery than a solid tencel so working with it was a dream.

Construction

As mentioned above, I cut this project on Thursday evening. In order to get photographs and have this blog post up today, I had to do all the sewing on Friday evening. I’m actually not a terribly fast seamstress, so finishing a pair of pants in a day seemed daunting. The Emerson Crop Pants are perfect for this kind of sewing. The pleats, pockets, and flat front waistband provide just enough details to keep things interesting, while making the pants an easy sew. I didn’t time myself exactly but, I think the actual sewing took about four hours start to finish. These pants could likely be sewn in less time if made in a solid or print with no need for pattern matching. I took extra care and did my best to line up the grid on side seams, crotch, and inseams. The pockets and front waistband were cut on the bias to eliminate bit of the pattern-matching headache. It’s not perfectly lined up everywhere but; someone would have to get pretty close to notice that, so I’m satisfied with the result.

Fit and Alterations

My body measurements put me at an 8 waist, and right between a 10 and 12 at the hips. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I opted to sew a straight size 10. I chose not to grade down at the waist because I figured simply using a shorter length of elastic at the waist would be an easier solution than starting with an 8 and grading out. The only other modification made was adding 5 inches to the length. I usually add 3-4 inches in length to my other True Bias pants but, added a little more here because I wanted the hem just above my ankle, making the pants wearable year-round. Overall, I’m really pleased with the fit of these pants. I may go back in and remove a bit of length from the elastic, but that’s the only thing I would change.

End Result

After photographing these pants, we had a little family date night and went out to eat. I paired them with booties, my latest Nikko Top, and a cropped black Wiksten Haori. The result was an outfit fancy enough for a night out, but comfortable enough that I could eat all I wanted at dinner without my pants feeling too tight (thank you elastic waistband). After wearing these, I realized that I need more pants like this in my life. Next time I make this pattern, I think I’ll taper the leg and use a linen for an easy pair of summer pants. I plan to wear this pair year round, pairing it with some of my solid colored tees in the warmer months.

Thanks for reading! Don’t forget to follow along with the ladies of Sew Fancy Pants (Katie, Jen, Loni, and me) because we’ve got more fun and inspiration coming your way all month. Head to my Instagram and enter the StyleMaker Fabrics Giveaway, but don’t delay because it ends Tuesday.

Want to see more of what I’ve made using fabrics from StyleMaker? Check out my Gemma Dress, Joy Jacket, or Spring Style Tour posts.

Fan of True Bias Patterns? Check out my Lodo Dress, Lander Pants, Hudson Pants, or Roscoe Blouse.

Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans in Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Hello! Today I’m sharing my latest outfit made from fabrics available online through Raspberry Creek Fabrics. You may have noticed by now that I’m a bit of a fabric collector and have several online fabric stores from which I regularly purchase. Raspberry Creek has a great selection of designer fabrics along with their in-house printed CLUB line. I was introduced to RCF in the summer of 2017 and just recently moved closer so that picking up my online orders could be even easier. Ok, so maybe that’s not actually why I moved to a new area, but it’s a nice perk. 

I’ve wanted to make the Named Clothing Gemma Sweater since it was released last fall. Instead, I made the dress version first (see that here), and put away the idea of a sweater for a while. It’s been in the back of my mind since, just waiting for the perfect fabric combination to come along. I wanted something with enough stretch to be comfortable, but the  correct weight and structure to really showcase the shape and style lines of the pattern. About a month ago, I was browsing Raspberry Creek Fabrics when I came across the solid ponte and knew I’d found my Gemma fabric. I chose the olive (sold out, but soon to be restocked) and charcoal for a combination that I’ve dubbed my Slytherin sweatshirt. 

A couple of years ago, I had some time to waste and decided to take the sorting quiz on Pottermore. I was perplexed when I found myself sorted into Slytherin. At first I felt almost ashamed by this because I don’t necessarily think of myself as the Tom Riddle or Draco Malfoy type. Like any millenial, I took a couple of minutes to have a mini identity crisis. Quickly, I remembered that the sorting hat allowed Harry to choose his house. In my situation (where none of this actually mattered because my life isn’t a fictional story), I decided that this means we get to choose which traits we want to embody.  loyalty and ambition aren’t bad traits and they are something I try to cultivate so maybe I can be a proud Slytherin after all. 

Ok, enough about my Hogwarts identity crisis. Let’s get back to talking about this sweater. Based on my measurements, I decided to cut and sew a size 38 (US 6). The only alteration made was to add 1″ to the length of the body and the sleeves.

I traced the pattern and cut the fabric in one afternooon, sewing it up the following afternoon. After a series of involved sewing projects, it felt liberating to start and finish something so quickly. This was my first experience sewing ponte fabric and it was much easier than expected. Despite a decent stretch percentage, it’s stable enough to sew easily without some of the headache that comes with sewing a lighter knit such as a cotton or rayon lycra. Overall, I’m so pleased with this sweater and enjoyed the process so fully that I’m considering buying a couple more colors of the RCF ponte and making matching sweaters for my sisters. 

Finally, let’s talk about these Ginger Jeans. This is my third pair of jeans and I made all the same alterations that I made to the first two (read about my sizing and alterations in this post). I’ve wanted a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans since before I dared tackle sewing a pair. In fact, one of my excuses to put off sewing jeans for so long was the difficulty in sourcing the “perfect” denim. Back in September, I unfortunately ended up  pulling an all-nighter while attempting to launch this new site. The next day, Diana posted in the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Facebook Group that Cone Mills denim had just been added to the site. In my sleep-deprived mind, I easily justified purchasing 3 yards of this tencel stretch denim. Patting my tired self on the back for this one because these black denim Gingers are dreamy. 

Just as anything handmade, there are a few imperfections and I can’t quite say that there’s absolutely nothing I’d change fit-wise (there are a few more wrinkles below the rear than I’d like), but all of my Gingers fit me 10x better than ready to wear jeans ever have and I’ve enjoyed immersing myself in the construction process each time. Jeans and pants have quickly become some of my most enjoyable and rewarding items, so if you’re on the fence about making some, what are you waiting for? Grab some Cone Mills denim and get to it. 

If you’ve made it here to the bottom, Thanks for reading. My favorite part of writing a post is finally having my items photographed so they can be added to my regular closet rotation. These two pieces are sure to get their fair share of wear as the temperatures drop over the next several months. What are you wearing/sewing for fall and winter? 

Want more Raspberry Creek Fabrics Inspiration? Check out my french terry loungewear set.  Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees or Gemma Dress

Full disclosure: The fabric for my sweater was provided to me, but all opinions are my own. 

Burnside Bibs and My Dream 1970’s Style Outfit

Hello All! Earlier this summer, I moved into a home built in the 1970’s and apparently decided to lean alllll the way in. Kidding, my home was built in the 1970’s but besides a hint of the original wallpaper inside a bathroom cabinet and the original kitchen cabinets, it’s not all that groovy. Honestly though, while I have no desire to have lived in the 1970’s, I have always been a fan of the style. Bold patterns, an array of color, and women wearing pants. What’s not to love? Except maybe an abundance of polyester, of course. 

Last Summer, I purchased the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs pattern and found this mystery blend striped knit in a local store for $3/yd. I just didn’t quite know that they were destined to form my dream outfit. The color combination in the knit reminded me of a shirt owned by my mom and made me so happy that I couldn’t leave the store without it. I knew that I wanted to sew up a tee with it, but loved it so much that I was afraid to cut into it. That is, until I came upon the FREE Carine Tee pattern by Elbe Textiles. This fabric and pattern are a match made in apparel sewing heaven

The fabric for my Burnside Bibs is this Lyocell denim purchased from Joann. I bought it on impulse last spring when denim fabrics were on sale for $7.99. To be frank, I had a little bit of trouble working with this fabric. It was likely user error, but this fabric did not want to behave. It was a little shifty and the end result is that one of my front pockets is slightly lower than the other. I didn’t notice my mistake until the last step of sewing and decided that fixing it wasn’t worth having to rip everything apart. This mistake is difficult to notice unless you’re looking for it and hasn’t kept me from loving or wearing them. 


The back of these bibs are a favorite detail. I love the gathered, but not too bunched look created by this version. I opted to make version #1 because I felt it would be the most flattering for my shape. I’m pear-shaped and didn’t want to add too much extra bulk around the waist or hip area. 

Since finishing my bibs almost a month ago, I’ve worn them a few times and added them to my list of secret pajamas. The lyocell fabric is soft and lightweight while the bibs are fitted enough to look stylish and loose enough for ultimate comfort. Wearing clothes that are secret pajamas feels somewhat like wearing cute, matching underwear. People know you’re wearing clothes, but nobody is privy to the fact that you could just as easily be wearing this outfit lounging in bed or cuddled on the couch. It’s a gooooood feeling. 

My only regret is that I didn’t make these when I first bought the pattern in the summer of 2017. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have to practice my lines as I audition to be an extra on the Brady Bunch. Ok, I’m really just scheming up a second more winter friendly pair of Burnside Bibs. 

I’ll leave you with a quick note on sizing. My waist and hip measurements put me right at a 10 with my bust measurement right around a 4. Since these are bibs, I decided not to bother with grading between sizes and just cut a straight size 10. I did end up adding 1/2″ to the length on the bib, 1/2″ to the rise, and 1.5″ to the  leg length. That’s it. Easy alterations and a great pattern. Have you tried the Burnside bibs yet? If not, what are you waiting for?

Want more overall sewing inspiration? Check out my Named Ronja Dungarees. Can’t get enough Sew House Seven Patterns? Check out my Tea House Dress or Toaster Sweater. Do you love 70’s style too? Look up my denim Lander Pants.

Marcella Romano Blog Tour: Persephone Pants or Technicolor “Kamm Pants”

Hello! Today I’m thrilled to be part of the Marcella Romano blog tour and am sharing my technicolor dream pants. A couple of months ago I  was introduced to Marcella Romano fabrics (check out their beautiful selection here)  and had a chance to peruse their website. Upon seeing this striped fabric, I knew it was destined for something fantastic. I spent a few days pondering on several patterns before settling on the Anna Allen Persephone Pants ( I purchased my pattern through Indiesew). They have just enough detail to look thoughtful and well-designed while allowing the fabric to shine. This fabric wants and deserves to steal the show.

Can we talk about this fabric? The bold design and bright colors were what initially attracted me until it arrived. Once it arrived, I found out that it had even more to offer than beautiful color. The fabric content is 88% cotton, 7% polyester and 5% Lycra. I would classify it as a mid-weight fabric which makes it perfect for pants, jackets, and structured skirts or dresses. The Lycra content gives the fabric just a bit of stretch (I’d estimate around 15%). It’s just enough stretch give the pants comfort while maintaining a structured fit. The weight and fabric content make working with this fabric a breeze. As someone who started out quilting, I will always have a soft spot for the way cotton presses. It’s a freaking dream. Maybe I just feel this way because my last few projects used more difficult fabrics but; pressing this was a breath of fresh air. Now that I’ve sung the praises of this textile, let’s move on to how it became this striking pair of pants.

I mentioned earlier that I chose the Persephone Pants pattern because it would allow the fabric to claim the spotlight. A majority of the Persephone Pants I’ve seen have been made in solid colors. The solid colored versions are minimalist, modern and universally flattering (which I love even though I rarely dress this way). I love all the solid colored versions so much that I made a pair as a wearable muslin prior to sewing this pair. The same details that are well highlighted in a solid colored pair can also nicely blend into the background making this pattern the perfect choice for both options.

Let’s discuss the ace details that work equally well with solid and printed fabrics.

  • No side seams:  Perfect for bold printed fabrics because there are less seams to break it up.
  • Front waist pockets: The pocket placement makes them nearly invisible in this pair and removes the necessity for pattern matching printed fabrics. Honestly, I almost omitted them in this pair, but I’m glad I didn’t. I always regret not having pockets when I need a place for my phone or id.
  • No back pockets: Back pockets are great and usually I’d advocate for them. In this instance, however, I love the simplicity of the back pant with darts being the only detail.
  • Concealed Button Fly: I opted to not use this detail and insert a fly zip instead. As recommended by Allie of Indiesew (in this post) I used the True Bias Lander Pant zipper expansion pattern pieces and instructions as a guide.

I wanted to get the fit on these pants just right so I actually made a muslin before cutting into the good stuff. I  almost NEVER do this (maybe once a year), but since this fabric deserved greatness, I made the sacrifice. Both my waist and hip measurements fall right in between a 10 and 12 on the Persephone Pants sizing chart. Since this fabric has a bit of stretch I decided to start with a size 10 and fit from there.  First, I made two alterations that I make to nearly every pair of pants and those were to add 1/2″ to the crotch length and 2″ to the leg length.

The initial fitting actually wasn’t awful. They fit me about how any high waisted style in ready to wear would fit. The waist was spot on with a small amount of extra fabric in the thighs and below my rear.  My first alteration after fitting was to remove an extra 1/4″ from the inseam. I did this simply by taking a larger seam allowance. This fixed my issue of width in the thighs, but I still had a bit of extra fabric below the rear. To correct this I did basically the same alteration mentioned above and took an extra 1/4″ into the seam allowance in the back crotch seam. I did not take any width out of the front crotch seam.

After these alterations, I noticed some small wrinkles below the darts between the top of my buttocks and my waist. They were minimal and I probably could have left them, but I decided to give fixing them a try. This was possibly the easiest fix yet as I simply redrew  and stitched the darts to extend them down 1/2″.

Overall, I was surprised with how easy it was to fit these pants. Pants can be a real pain in the rear (pun intended) to fit since there are a myriad of shapes and curves to fit on the lower body. I feel like I’ve hit the jackpot as Anna Allen’s drafting block seems to be the closest to my specific shape that I’ve found. I’ll certainly be looking out for future pant patterns from her.

I’ve given you all the details, so let’s get to the fun stuff: feelings. One may ask: How do you really feel about these pants? The subject of bold pants can be polarizing as many seem to have strong feelings one way or another. What I’ve learned after making these pants is that rainbow striped pants aren’t for everyone, but gosh darn it, they ARE for me! They’re comfortable, wild, and, yes, even a bit out of my comfort zone, but I’ve never had a pair of pants that feel so uniquely “me.” A pair of pants like these can bring out either self consciousness or self confidence depending on style preferences. After wearing them, I felt only confidence. I’m taking that as I sign that these pants will fit right in with the rest of my vibrant wardrobe.

Ready for more Marcella Romano fabric inspiration? Be sure to follow the links below to check out all the other ladies on tour this week.

MARCELLA ROMANO BLOG TOUR
SEPTEMBER 3rd – SEPTEMBER 6th 2018

MONDAY
Vicky – SewVee | Fleurine – Sew Mariefleur

TUESDAY
Heidi – Handmade Frenzy | Nicole – Merritts Makes

WEDNESDAY
Leslie – Threadbear Garments | Star – Well Fibre

THURSDAY
Eveline – Frölein Tilia | Dominique – Kreamino

Special thanks to my friend Sara of The Sara Project for her help styling and taking these photos. Always thankful to have you on my side, friend!

Style Maker Fabrics Spring Style Tour 2018

Hello! I’ve been anxiously waiting for this day since Michelle asked me to be part of this tour. Style Maker Fabrics is fully stocked with new arrivals. When I saw all the fabrics, my imagination ran a bit wild and I planned approximately fifty new projects. It took me a day or two to come back down to earth and realize making all of them might not be realistic on any sort of deadline. I spent about a week deliberating and finally narrowed my decision down to three projects and four fabrics.

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I know you’re supposed to save the best for last, but I’m bucking tradition here and going all in by talking about my favorite piece first. This woven stripe was love at first sight. Do you ever see a fabric and think “I need that on my body?” No? Just me? Well, that’s how I felt about this fabric. I considered some sort of button up shirt, but after scrolling through Instagram for inspiration I saw the Wiksten Oversized Kimono from issue 4 of Making Magazine (here) and couldn’t get the thought out of my head. Michelle was a great help in selecting a coordinating fabric and suggested this washed linen. They’re a match made in heaven, don’t you think?

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The over sized shape and giant pockets drew me in, but the possibility of making the kimono reversible is what sold me. If you’ve been following me for a while you might know that I like bold patterns and colors. My love affair with print and color has made my wardrobe a technicolor dream, but that does create some issues when putting outfits together. This way I can have bold, but it will also coordinate better with some of my louder pieces. I realize the over sized look isn’t everyone’s cup of tea although it is certainly mine. This is bound to get endless wear over the next few months and I envision it being my go-to on cold summer evenings.
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Next up, my latest Grainline Studio Lark Tee. Everyone has their favorite tee pattern, and this one is mine. I’ll be honest and say that I actually haven’t made any other basic tee pattern because I liked this one after the first try. I’ve made six or seven of them and wear them regularly.  I made a size 4 and in this coral jersey knit it’s my idea of a perfect fitted, but slightly slouchy tee.

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Finally, let’s talk about these jeans. These were my second pair of Ginger Jeans (see my first ones here) and was able to sew them up in just a couple of days. I used this brushed denim and comfort is an understatement (hardware kit also available here). They are unbelievably soft and every bit as comfortable as the old worn-in mom jeans that I actually stole from my mom (a bit of a tangent about those on this post). Skinny jeans and comfort don’t usually go hand in hand, but in this case they get along quite nicely. I was careful not to over fit them and they’ll be just as nice to wear for a day at the park as they will be for date night.

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Lest I lead you astray, making these jeans wasn’t all sunshine and rainbows. This was my first attempt at installing rivets which ended up being a bit of an ordeal. First, I attempted to install them at home with a wimpy little hammer that promptly broke. Next, I secured a new hammer at my parent’s house and using an old skillet as a metal surface when I dented the skillet in several places (sorry mom and dad). Then, I dug through boxes and found a cast iron skillet, installed the rivets, and thought everything was complete. Upon a final pressing and inspection I noticed a few tiny holes near the back pockets. These holes were apparently made during my rivet installation fiasco and I almost cried when I saw them. For once, I decided to keep a clear head and find a solution right away. Finally, I settled upon the idea of a little visible mending. I stabilized the holes and used perle cotton to stitch the shape of an asterisk in four places. I chose to stitch four so that it would look more like an intentional design feature than a mistake that needed to be fixed. It may seem silly, but I often toss a project to the side when a mistake like this is made. The extra stitching actually adds a nice little detail and reminds me that sometimes you just have to “make it work.”

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Now that I’ve gabbed on and on about my outfit, I just want to add on a little shout out to my husband who is the real MVP when it comes to these photos. Due to a small shipping delay and our schedules, the only time we had to take these photos was in the middle of wild winds and under threat of rain. I got dressed, we hopped in the car, and crossed our fingers that we could get the necessary photos. Guys, we took these photos in five minutes. After all the photos he’s taken for me, I think we’ve finally found our stride. The threat of rain and wild winds may have been a factor in making this photo session so quick, but I’m seriously impressed that we were able to just get it done. I’ll leave you with one last decent photo of my outfit and if you scroll to the bottom there’s one that will illustrate the hilarity of our 5 minute session.

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Now, I think that I’ve sufficiently run out of words. Are you ready to shop the Style Maker spring fabrics? Find the new arrivals here. Want more spring sewing inspiration? Check out yesterday’s post by Leslie (here) or see Lori’s post coming tomorrow (here). Want to be inspired by everyone on the Style Maker Spring Style Tour? Find links to all the tour posts here.

Finally, here’s likely the only reason you read or scrolled all the way to the bottom of this lengthy post:

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Whew! You’ve made it all the way to the end? Are you ready to read more? No? that’s cool this was a huge post. Yes? Here are links  to a couple of other projects I’ve made using fabrics from Style Maker. See my Joy Jacket here or my Gemma Dress here.

My First Pair of Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

Jeans! The Ginger Jeans had been on my “someday I’ll make this” list practically since the day the pattern was released. Why did I wait years to finally make them? First, I made the excuse that I didn’t have time (I did have a 1 year old at the time so that was partially true). Second, I kept putting off buying quality denim. Last spring, I finally decided that 2017 would be the year I finally made jeans. I purchased the printed pattern and planned to start right away. Just a few days later, my husband was offered a great job and we decided to move.

After the decision to move, summer and fall moved quickly and I put the idea of making jeans out of my mind. Fast forward to the end of November when I received an exciting email from IndieSew. The email informed me that I had one their monthly giveaway and my prize was a jeans kit complete with 3 yards of denim and all the hardware needed for a pair of jeans. I was in the living room when I opened the email and immediately ran to tell my husband the news. I’m pretty sure he thought I was about to tell him that I’d won the lottery (which would be a bit difficult seeing as there isn’t actually a lottery in Utah). The hardware kit and denim arrived in early December. Since I had a lot of Christmas sewing at the time, I had to wait until after the holiday to get started.

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Finally, all of my excuses were null and void. I began cutting my jeans during the last week of December. I was all ready to finish a pair of jeans before the end of the year until my husband and I both got sick. After getting sick, it took me about a  week to get my sew-jo back. I was finally able to complete this first pair of jeans by the second week of January.

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First, Let’s talk fitting adjustments:

After taking my measurements, I determined that my hip was about a size 12 with my waist measurement sitting somewhere in between a 10 and 12. I decided to cut a 12 and adjust from there. I am about 5’10” and because of that, usually need a bit of extra length in the rise. I added 1/2″ to the rise and 2″ to the length of the legs. I added the leg length by adding 1″ at the lengthen/shorten line and 1″ below the knees. Once I made these initial adjustments, I basted everything together to check the fit.

I should’ve taken some photos to better document the fitting of these jeans, but I clearly didn’t quite have the foresight to do that. After my first baste fitting, I had a few major issues. First, the waist was gaping by about 1″ at the center back. Second, I had a a decent amount of extra fabric making lots of wrinkles under my bottom. Third, the legs were just a little too big. Here’s what I did to fix these areas:

  1. To fix the gaping at the center back, I took out a small wedge at the center back of the yoke. I drew a line that started 1/2″ away from the top of the center back and angled to the bottom of the center back yoke. I trimmed the yoke pieces along this line and then sewed everything according to the pattern instructions. FYI: this is definitely not the proper or recommended method, just what worked for me personally.
  2. To fix the excess fabric below my bottom, I followed the tutorial under the “Extra Fabric at the Seat and Thigh Pull Lines” header on this post. I know it says the adjustment is no longer necessary with the current file, but I did have a paper version of the pattern which may or may not be updated.
  3. The legs being slightly big was the easiest adjustment of all. Instead of using a 5/8″ seam allowance on the side seams and inseam, I simply used a 3/4″ seam allowance which seemed to remove the excess just fine.

I can’t say that my adjustments were all necessarily done the “right” way, but they seemed to work out just fine and I’m really happy with the overall fit of these jeans. Although the fit isn’t 100% perfect, they’re still the best fitting jeans I’ve ever owned and that’s a win for me.

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I know I won’t be the first person to tell you this; but after fitting, the construction was actually pretty easy. Thanks to my Lander Pants (here) and the two jean jackets (here and here) I made over the last six months, I was quite prepared when it came to topstitching and some of the other skills needed for these jeans. The actual sewing of these jeans came together quickly and took probably 6 hours or less. In fact, I was able to sew up my second pair in two days (more about those coming in a few weeks). Sure, a fly zipper can be intimidating (Until these jeans, it had been years since I last inserted one. I honestly didn’t find it any more difficult than a lapped or invisible zipper.

Overall, I found this jeans making experience quite rewarding. I’ve been wearing these non-stop and suddenly want to make all the jeans.  I have online shopping carts full of denim from at least three different fabric stores and just can’t decide which pattern or denim to use next. I keep kicking myself for waiting so long to finally make a pair of jeans.

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Have you made jeans yet? If the answer is yes, awesome! How did you feel about them? If the the answer is no, what’s stopping you? Is it the fitting (read this post)? Is it the construction intimidating (follow this sewalong)? Are you just nervous about the in-depth knowledge of your body shape that comes with sewing jeans (read this post)? I’m not saying you HAVE to make jeans, I’m just saying that I’m happy to be your cheerleader if and when you do. Now, go make some jeans, or pat yourself on the back for that pair you’ve already made.

All photos in this post were taken by my friend Kim of Sweet Red Poppy. She found this studio with the awesome pink wall and now I don’t want to photograph my makes anywhere else.

Matching Loungewear: Brilliant Idea or Fashion Blunder?

Way back in August, my son decided that he wanted to be Spongebob for Halloween and requested that I dress up as Squidward. Part of me was rather proud as I was a Spongebob fan back in the day. In the sixth grade I even got a Spongebob alarm clock for Christmas (It sang the “F.U.N.” song to wake me up and was a real treasure. I’m sure my parents were delighted when it finally broke).  I had spent a few weeks puzzling on how to execute my Squidward costume until I was in Denver and Emily made this Blueprints for Sewing Geodesic Sweatshirt. The wheels in my head started turning and I came up with the idea of a matching mint colored loungewear set.

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Emily’s lovely mauve french terry inspired me to check the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Etsy shop where I found this solid dark mint french terry. I knew that I would use the Geodesic pattern because I already owned it and had been planning to make the longer version eventually (see my cropped version here). I decided to purchase the True Bias Hudson Pants pattern (here) and the two together make a perfect pair.

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I sewed up a size C/D with no alterations in the Geodesic and it all came together rather quickly. My background in quilting is what drew me to the fun geometric lines of the Geodesic and I think it made the construction a little easier as well.

When cutting and sewing the Hudsons, I made a size 10 with the only alteration being an added 4″ in length. I only needed to add 3″ to the length, but I prefer my sweats a little extra long. It probably has something to do with the fact that nearly all rtw sweats are a few inches too short for my legs. Perhaps I’m just making up for years of wearing sweats that look like I’m expecting a flood.

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While I’m satisfied with both pieces individually, I’m still not sure that I’m sold on wearing them together. They kind of remind me of the blush velour sweatsuit I owned in middle school and I’m still trying to decide whether or not that’s a good thing. The comfort level of this outfit is unreal. I have been wearing it around the house all day today. I guess the point of loungewear is actual lounging though, so I will certainly wear these together during those times. My biggest question is whether or not I would wear matching loungewear out and about during everyday activities. How do you feel about matching loungewear? Is it something you would wear? How and where would you wear it?

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Thanks for reading! I’ll leave you with a quick iPhone shot of our Halloween costumes so you can see how I incorporated these matching separates into my Squidward costume.

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True Bias Lander Pants

Today I’m thrilled to show you my True Bias Lander Pants. I was lucky enough to be one of Kelli’s testers for this pattern and couldn’t be happier with my result. These are certainly not my first pair of pants, but there’s just something about the detailing and fit that makes me feel like my sewing skills are suddenly legit. The pants feature a wide leg, button fly, front rectangular patch pockets, and a flattering high waist. There are also three length options: short, ankle, and boot length. If you haven’t already seen them, check out the pattern listing here to see Kelli’s amazing samples and how great they look on her gorgeous silver-haired model.
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I opted to make the boot length option as I plan to wear these regularly throughout the fall and winter months. Wide leg pants have been appealing to me for years, but because of my waist to hip ratio and longer legs, nice fitting ones are nearly impossible to buy off the rack. When Kelli told me she was making a pattern for wide leg pants, I jumped at the chance to test them.

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This denim pair is actually my second pair of Lander Pants. During the testing phase I made an ankle length pair using Essex Linen. The denim is a Robert Kaufman denim purchased from Imagine Gnats (find it here). The fabric is a really nice medium weight and rather comfortable as well. I wore these pants on the plane to Denver last week (more about that trip here). My plane flew out of SLC at 7:30 am so I was nervous to see how my pants would look by the end of the day. Surprisingly, they still looked great by dinner time with only minimal wrinkling from an entire day of wear.

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One of the details I love about these pants is the size of the pockets on both front and back. They’re a great design feature, but it’s their practicality that really wins my heart. One of THE worst parts of many ready to wear women’s pants are the size of the pockets. Does anyone else hate when they’re so small you can’t even fit your phone inside? I mean, what are they? Pockets for ants? I don’t even have a giant phone and I regularly have this problem when shopping for pants. Not planning on having that problem again, because I’m just going to make an array of Lander Pants for all occasions.

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I could write a few hundred more words proclaiming my love for these pants, but I’ll let the photos and the fact that I’ve been wearing them multiple times a week speak for themselves. Kelli is hosting a Lander Pant Sewalong on her blog this week. It’s sure to be filled with lots of helpful hints if you’d like some extra wisdom while making a pair. Check out her first post here.

Thanks for reading! Want to see what else I’ve made using True Bias patterns? Check out my red Lodo Dress in this post.

Photos by my lovely friend Rachel of Little Fish.

If you’ve made it this far I’ll leave you with the gem of a picture below. This is what I look like when I’m afraid that I’ll be hit by a car while “acting natural” and crossing the street. Clearly crossing the street photos will never be one of my signature poses.

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Named Clothing Ronja Dungarees

I’ve loved overalls for as long as I can remember. In fact, last time I was at my parents’ house, I looked through old photo albums and found two first day of school pictures in which I’m wearing overalls. I even brought my newborn son home from the hospital in a tiny pair of overalls because teeny tiny overalls will always win my heart. Every time overalls come back in style I find myself poring over photos and planning all the possible outfits. Basically, I have a love affair with overalls and will likely continue to wear them long after they’re no longer “in style.” With that said, I’d like to introduce you to my Named Clothing Ronja Dungarees (find them here). The Ronja Dungarees feature front and back pockets, button closures, a cropped ankle-length, plenty of top-stitching, and tie straps. There’s no shortage of details and I love that about this pattern.

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I added these lovely flower buttons (purchase here) from Arrow Mountain. I’ve almost exclusively used Arrow Mountain buttons since discovering them over a year ago. Good quality, stylish buttons are sometimes hard to find, but I find myself wanting to buy ALL the Arrow Mountain buttons (see more ways I’ve used them here, here, and here).

IMG_1648IMG_1676 When choosing my fabric, I was presented with the dilemma of whether to use a print or a solid. I waffled back and forth between the two until I remembered that I had some of this Euclid fabric in my stash. This is a print designed by Carolyn Friedlander for Robert Kaufman Fabrics. It is printed on their Essex Linen which is a cotton/linen blend. The weight of the fabric is somewhere between a canvas and a quilting cotton. It doesn’t have much drape which makes it great for a bit more structured pants and skirts. As per usual, I purchased the fabric from Suppose.

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These are constructed in a way that makes it a bit difficult to test garment fit as you sew, because of this I would highly recommend sewing a muslin first. Sometimes, out of pure laziness, I ignore my own advice.  This was one of those times.  I pretty much just held my breath and hoped the overalls would fit in the end. I was expecting my Ronja Dungarees to be fun but; I did not expect that they would actually flatter my back side. This was a pleasant surprise. My husband even remarked that these overalls were “very flattering.” I’m almost certain that the words “overalls” and “flattering” are rarely used in the same sentence. I mean, I definitely don’t usually reach for overalls and think “Man, I look good in these.” These Ronjas make me feel that way and it’s a fun change from my regular momiform of loose flowy dresses.

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The challenge of sewing something a bit more advanced after many simple projects, was a great refresher for me. It’s sometimes nice to change the pace and sew something one small step at a time instead of all at once. This pattern reignited my love of overalls, and I’ve already purchased the Burnside Bibs pattern by Sew House Seven. How do you feel about overalls? Are you over them?

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I’ll leave you with a few notes on my sizing and alterations: I am close to 5’10” and sewed a size 38 with few length modifications. Named Clothing drafts for a height of 5’8″ so I decided not to add any length to the rise and add elsewhere instead. I added 1/2″ of length at the bust, 1″ of length at the thigh, and 1″ of length at the knee. I’m really happy with the length and think it will be great for late summer and transition well into early fall.

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I’ve never been one to shy away from patterned pants or quirky details. Just ask the middle school girls who giggled when I showed up to school wearing cheetah print pants. With the tie front detail and bold 1″ gingham print these pants definitely make a statement. The pattern used for these pants is the Jumpy pants and shorts pattern by Ready to Sew. Find it here. Fabric used is Checkers fabric by Cotton and Steel. My top is a Grainline Studio Scout Tee made in rayon designed by Rifle Paper Co. for Cotton and Steel. Both fabrics were purchased from Suppose.
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Today I’d like to take little time to tell you about my style motto and a little story about how I developed it. I honestly can’t remember a time in my life when I wasn’t making somewhat bold or different fashion choices. I’ve always been drawn to prints and unique details, but I didn’t always wear them because I was fearful of what others may think or say. After hearing criticism about my style in middle school, I was fearful of being an outcast if I didn’t dress like everyone else. In 9th grade, I started regularly wearing the same American Eagle or Hollister jeans and tees that everyone else wore. I still had some bold things in my wardrobe, I just wore them more sparingly.

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The summer before I was to start 10th grade, my family moved from the tiny town of Spencer, Iowa to the slightly larger town of Brigham City, Utah. I was resistant to the move at first, but decided this was the time to become exactly who I wanted to be. My style motto became, ” Wear what makes you happy and to hell with what anyone else thinks.” I was going to be myself here from the very beginning. For most of my 10th and 11th grade years I did a decent job at wearing what brought me joy and dressing for myself vs. dressing for others.

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In the spring of my 11th grade year I purchased a pair of railroad stripe overall shorts which my then boyfriend (now husband) lovingly referred to as my train conductor overalls. I was ridiculously proud of those things and often wore them with a crisp white button up, navy or white tights/leggings, and heels. After wearing them three or four times, I overheard that some girls had been talking about crazy overall outfit and how silly it looked. At the time, I allowed their comments to get into my head. I stopped wearing those overalls for nearly a year.

Fast forward to the next spring, I was out playing four-square at lunch (believe me it was the cool thing to do in my high school) when my classmate Laney remarked that she liked how I used to style my overalls and asked why I never wore them anymore. I made up some lame excuse about weather, but this got me thinking. That night I went home and pulled my overall shorts out of my closet. I put them on, looked in the mirror, and asked myself why I had stopped wearing them. Did they fit? yes. Did wearing them bring me joy? yes. Did I care what other people thought about them? Kind of, sort of, maybe too much. The next day, I wore the heck out of those overalls and you know what? Some people gave me weird looks and others said nice things. I appreciated the nice things, but the thing I really remember about that day is how liberated I felt wearing something that I loved.

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The moral of my story? Be you. Wear what brings you joy whether it’s jeans, sweatpants, cocoon dresses, gingham pants, wild jumpsuits, all black, or train conductor overalls. Every morning when I get dressed I try my best to dress for myself, not for my friends, family, or strangers that I may encounter (although I do kind of dress for others because nudity isn’t quite socially acceptable). I’m not perfect in sticking to my “to hell with what others may think” style motto, but it does bring me infinitely more confidence and joy when I do.

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Thanks for sticking with me through that novel. A few quick notes on the sizing and pattern. I sewed up a size 38 and found the sizing to be just about spot on based on my measurements. The only adjustment I made was adding 2″ to the length. If I made the pattern again I think that I would add 1/2″ to 1″ to the rise so that the pants would sit just a bit higher above my hips. The construction of these pants is fairly simple and easy enough for a confident beginner to tackle. The only thing that might be difficult for a beginner is understanding the instructions. They are fairly clear, but are not as heavily detailed with illustrations as many other indie patterns. I’d compare the amount of instructions and illustrations to something you may find in a Simplicity or McCall’s pattern. Overall, I’m pretty happy with these bold pants and plan to make the pattern again with a few modifications.