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Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project: Free Range Slacks and Pipit Loungewear Top

Hello! Today I’m excited to share with you the first two completed items of my Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project. Over the last week I was able to sew up the Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks and Common Stitch Pipit Loungewear Set top in Matinee in Earth. I used 5 yards of the 45″ wide fabric to complete both projects. I’m going to be swanning around in this all summer but, before I do that, let’s get to the details.

Pipit Loungewear Top

The Pipit Loungewear set top has been on my to-sew list for a while. Combined with Warp and Weft fabric, it’s giving off some serious fancy pajama vibes. In this particular time, fancy pajamas are exactly the wardrobe aesthetic to which I’m aspiring.

Sizing and Alterations

Based on the finished garment measurements, I chose to sew a size 6 top. As far as flat pattern alterations, I added 2 and 3/4 inches to the length of both the bodice and sleeve lengths. There aren’t lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern pieces so I just arbitrarily picked a place about 2-3 inches below the armpit to cut a straight line and add the length.

Construction

I somewhat closely followed the pattern instructions and was able to sew this top in about 3.5 hours of total sewing time. It’s a straightforward sew, however I did make some slight changes to fit my personal preferences. First, I topstitched the facing down along the back neckline to keep it from flipping to the outside. Second, I altered the construction of the sleeve cuff. In the pattern it instructs you to press the long ends in by 3/8″ (1cm), sandwich the unsewn sleeve bottom between those edges, and topstitch in place. Then, you attach the sleeve and stitch the underarm seam. I opted for a cleaner finish on the top and used a construction method similar to the cuffs on the Chalk and Notch Fringe. If I would’ve thought ahead, I would’ve snapped pictures as I worked but I’ll do my best to describe it instead. Here’s what I did:

  1. Attach sleeves to top without cuffs. Sew underarm seam.
  2. Press cuff in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Unfold.
  3. Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, stitch short sides of cuff piece together to form a circular piece.
  4. Press one long side of the cuff to the wrong side by 3/8″ (1cm).
  5. Right sides together and using a 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance, stitch the unpressed edge of your cuff to the sleeve edge. Press seam towards cuff.
  6. Fold cuff to the inside of sleeve. Pin your previously pressed edge from step 4 to just barely cover the stitching (from step 5) on the inside of your sleeve.
  7. Stitch in the ditch where sleeve is attached to cuff. Make sure to catch folded edge of cuff in your stitching.

That’s it. Finish pattern steps for attaching buttons and finishing the hem and your top is done. Yay!

Free Range Slacks

These Free Range Slacks marked my second time making this pattern (see my first pair here) and I can’t decide which pair I love more. The weight of this Warp and Weft fabric seems especially suited to this style of pant. In fact, upon finishing these, I nearly abandoned all my other capsule plans to make a pair in every fabric.

Sizing and Alterations

Sizing was easy since I already figured that out on my first pair and went ahead making the same flat pattern alterations which were:  selecting a size 10 then adding 1/2″ to the rise and 1.5″ to the leg length. Due to the narrower width (44″) of this fabric, I did have to make the pants 1/2″ shorter at the hem to accommodate those horizontal stripe side panels.

Construction

Handmade pants are my favorite sewing project and stitching up these was no exception. The simple lines and elastic waist meant I had these sewn up in about 3 hours (which is quite fast for me).

Final Thoughts

I’m just not sure how many more ways I can articulate how much I love this set. Together the Pipit Loungewear Top and Free Range Slacks feel like an outfit right out of an Ace and Jig listing or like something I would wear in the evenings to relax at some swanky resort ( a girl can dream, right?). Separately, each piece makes a statement on its own. The pants are equally cute styled with a basic tee and the top would be a great complement to a simple pair of jeans. You’ll be seeing these around and I can’t wait to pair them with future additions to my Warp and Weft Wardrobe.

Thank you for reading!

P.S. Notice those cute shoes? Can you believe I made them? I mean, I can hardly believe it but if you want to read more, head to this post for the low down.

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Joan Trousers with Bonus Sheridan Sweater

Hello! Wishing you all a happy new year! Yesterday, in an ostentatious end to 2019, I finished my first Sew Fancy Pants project: A pair of polka dotted Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with accompanying Hey June Sheridan Sweater. Now I’m wondering how I’ve lived my life without a matching set such as this one. Read on for all the details.

Fabric

I’ve had my eye on this Double Face Sweater Knit from La Mercerie since Adrianna of Hey June used it for her Evans Blazer sample. I promised myself that if La Mercerie had a Black Friday sale and this was still available then, I could buy it. Thankfully, the fabric gods were on my side and I was able to purchase 3.5 yards.

What’s that? Oh, you noticed those matching earrings? Why, yes. I did make them specifically to match this outfit.

Sheridan Sweater

Adrianna’s Polka Dot Sheridan Sweater (sample in listing photos) was actually the catalyst behind this entire outfit. Upon seeing it, I was smitten with the bell sleeves and couldn’t get the idea of a matching sweater set out of my head. The shape of the sweater combined with this polka dot fabric feels a little bit 1960’s mod and I am here for it.

This Sheridan is view B with bell sleeves. Size is a 6 graded to a 10 at the hips with 1″ of length added to the bodice and sleeves.

Sewing the Sheridan took about two hours including the time it took me to sit down and eat breakfast with my son. Really, it was that easy. Now I need to hurry up and order more of this fabric to make a Sheridan Dress.

Joan Trousers

Friday Pattern Company describes the Joan Trousers as “treggings” (trouser/leggings). It’s an accurate description of a clothing item I didn’t know I needed in my life. They combine the comfort of pajama pants with the look of tailored trousers (pockets! belt loops! faux button front waistband!) Sure, they look more casual in this particular fabric but, in a nice solid ponte or double knit, they’d be office ready in no time.

This time around I used all the same adjustments made to my first pair. Sewed a size large with 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, and 3″ added to the length (Just FYI: since this pattern doesn’t include a lengthen shorten line at the rise, I simply added the 1/2″ to the top of the front and back pieces as well as the pocket and pocket lining pieces). Again, I chose to slightly taper the straight, wide legs for a slight cigarette pant look. These ones are tapered slightly less than my first pair as I was worried about this particular fabric looking like leggings if too slim.

Construction took somewhere between 3-4 hours. This time around, I paid careful attention to my markings and sewing went off without a hitch. Sewing instructions were straightforward with the trickiest part being the attachment of elastic to inner waistband. Sewing might have been even quicker if I hadn’t worn them around for a few minutes while determining a final hem length.

Final Thoughts

Despite the fact that my son called this outfit pajamas (“Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”), I will proudly wear this outfit both separately and together in public. Separately, the trousers will likely be paired with one of my many Nikko Tops for a polished, business casual look. The Sheridan will look just right paired with high waisted jeans or wide leg pants. In fact, I’m just about to try it on with a few pairs of my handmade pants to determine my favorite pairing. Will report back.

Pretty sure this photo was snapped at the exact moment my son said, “Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”

This was my second time sewing up a pair of Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with the intention of a matching set. The first time they were paired with the Hey June Evans Blazer (read more about that set here). Clearly, I have a thing with pairing patterns from the two companies. Perhaps next time, I should mix it up by sewing a pair of Hey June Pants and wearing it with a Friday Pattern Company top? Now, which ones to choose? Adrienne Blouse and Kendrick Overalls? Maybe a Wilder Top and Bryce Cargo Pants? Let me know what you think below!

Thanks for reading!

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Wedding Ready with the Evans Blazer and Joan Trousers

Hello! This last week has been filled with all kinds of family festivities. Last Saturday we celebrated my brother’s wedding. Following the wedding, my sister and her children came and stayed with us until yesterday. Having children to play with all week was a dream come true for my only child and spending time with my sister was one for me. There were a few minor hiccups when one child got sick in the movie theater (before we knew he was sick), all three children ended up sick, and I put the turkey in the oven one hour late after not setting an alarm. Despite a wild few days, I’m left feeling grateful for family that is down to roll with the punches and take on life’s bumps together. It was a lovely week overall and we’re missing our family already. Enough about my week. Let’s get down to the reason I’m writing this post: My secret pajamas wedding suit.

Fabric

One week before my brother’s wedding, I still had no clue what I wanted to wear. That is, until I was browsing Stylemaker Fabrics and discovered this Dusty Rose Ponte Knit. Inspiration struck and 3.5 yards were ordered.

Joan Trousers

The Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers have been on my to-sew list since I wrote a Sew Fancy Pants Fabric Inspiration (Beginner Edition) post in January. Eleven months later, I purchased the pattern and got to work. Based on my measurements, I cut a Large, added 1/2″ to the rise (there isn’t I lengthen shorten line here so I added it at the top), and added 3″ to the leg length at the lengthen/shorten line. Inspired by bluefloralneedles and pinkcoatclub, the legs were tapered for a cigarette pant vibe.

Sewing the Joan Trousers was quick and relatively painless. Most of the sewing took place one afternoon. I was nearing the finish line when I noticed that I’d accidentally placed the belt loops along the wrong markings. One hour of seam ripping later, the belt loops were correctly attached and I was on my way to a finished pair of pants.

Evans Blazer

Since it’s release, the Hey June Evans Blazer has been near the top of my favorites list. This one didn’t turn out quite as well as I’d like (mostly because this fabric is on the lighter side) but, it’s still wearable, just needs a bit of tweaking.

Based on the size chart, I cut a 6 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. Added 1/2″ of length to the blazer and 1″ of length to the sleeves. Size wise, all of these alterations seemed about right.

Before I get into the issues I had, I want to clarify that the sizing and instructions were accurate and thorough. The following issues had to do with my fabric choice, not the pattern. I fully intend to make this pattern again in a better suited fabric.

First, my fabric is a lightweight rayon/nylon ponte and has a bit of drape. This means the collar doesn’t stay in place on it’s own. I did hand tack a couple of spots on the collar but, they came undone after a bit of dancing and child wrangling. Now that the wedding is over, I plan to go back and hand tack the entire collar.

Second, also due to the lightweight nature of the fabric, my hem had to be sewn by machine. I spent an hour making a hand sewn blind hem on the blazer bottom and it DID NOT look good. While not sold on the visible topstitching, it’s better than what I had before. Perhaps I’ve lost my blind hemming skills after not using them for a while but the small divots made by the blind hem were extremely noticeable in this color and fabric weight. A darker color would likely not have the same result. The visible stitching makes the blazer more casual than intended.

Final Thoughts

Despite my fabric issues with the Evans Blazer, I’m quite pleased with the overall look created here. Many of my brother’s wedding guests complimented my pink pantsuit while the knit fabric kept me comfortable throughout set up, take down, and everything in between. The trousers are bound to become a staple and with a little work, the blazer will become one as well.

Thanks for reading!

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Sewing Patterns by Masin: Belen Bodysuit

Disclosure: The Belen Bodysuit PDF pattern was provided to me in exchange for a review. Fabric was purchased by me. All opinions are my own.

Hello! I’m back from a Disneyland vacation and nearly recovered from a week of nonstop walking, eating, and magic. Before leaving on vacation, I finished one last project: this Sewing Patterns by Masin Belen Bodysuit. Wanting something, whimsical, practical, and a bit sexy to wear for our planned date night, I sat at my sewing machine and got to work. This bodysuit fits the bill nicely by combining a low-scooped back with the comfort of a t-shirt. Ready to dive right in to all the details? Let’s do this.

belenbody-2

Fabric

I waffled back and forth over fabric choice for weeks. Did I want stripes? Florals? A solid? Once the weather cooled a bit, I started layering and realized that the pieces I reached for most often were my black and white prints. They seamlessly mix with everything in my wardrobe while still adding visual interest. Enter this Crowded Faces viscose crepe knit purchased from Topstitch Atlanta (currently on sale so grab it now). It has a nice textured hand, is slightly sheer and, thanks to the spandex content, also has great recovery. Due to the lightweight sheer nature of the fabric, I did opt to line both the bodice and bottom portion of the bodysuit with white rayon/spandex for a bit of extra coverage and stability.

Sizing and Alterations

The Belen Bodysuit sizing chart put me in a size small at the bust then right between medium and large at the waist and hips. Following these measurements, I graded the pattern accordingly. I also added 1″ in length to the bottom of the bodice, top of the bottoms, and 2″ in length to the sleeves. There’s no lengthen/shorten line on the sleeves so I arbitrarily made a straight line to cut and spread along the top half of the sleeve. If I make this pattern again, I might add another 1″ to the sleeve length (for a total of 3 additional inches). Just personal preference here. I prefer extra long sleeves.

Construction

As the last project before vacation, I crossed my fingers that sewing this up would be smooth sailing. Luck was on my side this time and the Belen came together in an afternoon. Honestly, It took me almost as much time to hand stitch the snaps as it did to sew the rest of the bodysuit. The viscose crepe fabric presented a bit of difficulty if I tried going too fast so; I tried to keep a slow and steady pace. Using a lightning stitch, I sewed the whole thing on my sewing machine. A serger was only used to finish the sleeves before hemming.

Lining the Bodysuit Bottom

In order to line the bottom portion of the bodysuit, I deviated slightly from the instructions. Here’s how: Instead of using the crotch lining pieces, cut one front bottom and one back bottom from the lining fabric. Then, sew the side seams on the lining according to the instructions in step 4. Next, place the lining and outer bottoms right sides together, sandwich the lingerie elastic between the two, and sew it on as indicated in step 5. Finally, stitch across the bottom of the crotch pieces with a 1/4″ seam allowance and turned the bottoms right side out. Using a double needle or zig zag stitch, stitch along the edges of the leg openings to secure the elastic and keep the lining from rolling out.

Final Thoughts

I was initially unsure about the idea of a bodysuit. My biggest qualm being that I might feel like a baby in a onesie. Happy to report that I did not once feel like an overgrown baby whilst wearing the Belen. In fact, I felt quite sexy. Well, as sexy as one can feel in an outfit practical enough for riding amusement park rides. The only time I regretted my outfit choice was when my back got a little chilly in the restaurant. Next time I’ll remember a jacket for restaurant wear.

As the weather cools, I don’t see that scooped back making too many appearances. However, I’m imagining this will be a lovely layering piece worn under cardigans, button ups, and my favorite jackets. I’m looking forward to playing around with styling options and can’t wait to integrate this new piece into my fall/winter wardrobe.

One last thing to note: Some of my lighter weight pants do show what looks like underwear lines with this bodysuit so I’ll have to stick to pairing it with flowy skirts or heavier weight bottoms like these 12 oz denim Phillipa Pants.

Thanks for reading!

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Clementine Top and Crew Trousers

Disclosure: The pattern for the Clementine Top was given to me in exchange for a review and I received the Crew Trousers in exchange for my participation in the pattern test (no obligation to promote). All opinions are honest and my own.

Hello all! Today I’ve got a couple of my latest makes to share with you: The Forget Me Not Patterns Clementine Top and the newly released Chalk and Notch Crew Trousers. Combined these two make a look that I’d describe as business casual. My current work environment (as a seamstress and SAHM), only requires that I’m clothed and looking alive for daily activities. However, if I did work outside the home, I have a feeling that this is how I’d want to represent myself. Maybe I’ll pull this out for date night instead. Ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Clementine Top

Fabric

I purchased one yard of this marbled scuba knit from Stylemaker Fabrics (sold out but check out their current selection of scuba knits here) in January 2018. Originally, I intended for it to be a Lodo hacked into a top. It never happened and this fabric languished on my shelf for 18+ months. Fast forward to a few weeks ago when it dawned on me that this scuba would be the perfect pairing for the Forget Me Not Clementine Top. The weight of the scuba gives a modern, stiff drape to the cowl and highlights the structure of the princess seams. Match made in sewing heaven.

Sizing

Based on my measurements, I chose to cut and sew a size 36. Technically, my bust fell in a 34 but, I chose to sew a 36 for simplicity and the sizing turned out great. The photos here don’t highlight it quite as well as I’d like but the fitting on the back is especially fantastic. The princess seams make it fit like a glove with no swayback drooping. My only alteration was adding 1/2″ to the top length at the hems. Other than that, I sewed the pattern up as-is.

Construction

The Clementine pattern instructions were clear and easy to follow. Clear instructions combined with a cooperative fabric made this a quick and simple sew. I spent one afternoon on assembly, then hemmed the top and sleeves the next morning. The cowl neck and princess seams added enough detail to make the sewing process satisfying as well.

Crew Trousers

Fabric

A few weeks ago, along with ladies in my local sewing group the “Salty Sewists,” I made a little afternoon trip to visit Harmony in Provo, Utah. It’s a darling store filled with fabric, yarn, and all the best little gifts packed into a small pioneer age house. Oh, the charm! I picked up this coral pink Tencel Twill and knew it would make the perfect pants. The fabric is opaque, has great drape, AND the front side has a brushed texture that feels suede-like. Working with it was fairly easy, although I did have one spot on the waistband where I accidentally stretched the fabric, creating some small bubbles along the waistband. Luckily, that’s covered by a pretty bow so it’s not really a big deal.

Sizing and Alterations

Over the last few years, I’ve sewn nearly every Chalk and Notch women’s pattern. You could say I’m a bit of a fan. It also means that I trust in Gabriela’s ability to get sizing and measurements right. Based on the measurement chart and Gabriela’s recommendation, I chose a size 10 for the waist and hips then graded to a 6 at the thighs and legs. I also ended up removing about 1/2″ of the width around the ankles for a slightly larger taper. My other adjustments were standard for me: 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, 1″ length added at the above knee lengthen line, and 1/2″ length added at the below knee lengthen line. Just going to take a minute here and stress the importance of lengthen lines above AND below the knee on pants. Everyone’s legs are proportioned differently. My calf length is likely not the same as another person of my height and may be the same as someone shorter or taller. If you are thinking about designing a pants pattern, it will make everyone’s life easier when you include both. There we go. Off my soapbox now.

Construction

Despite sewing 90% of my wardrobe over the last several years, I wouldn’t consider myself a quick sewist. Many experienced sewists can whip up a tee shirt in an hour. Often, it takes me two. Pants are no exception. I’ve made probably 10 pairs over the last year and still find myself taking my time to get each step finished well. With that in mind, sewing these pants took me somewhere between 6-7 hours total.

I sewed these over the course of a day while also taking care of my son, getting him off to school, picking him up, cooking dinner, cleaning dishes, and while sitting across the table from my mother (so I might have gotten distracted with chatting). As per usual, Gabriela’s instructions were concise and included plenty of illustrations. This made inserting a lapped zipper (the hardest part: which is totally doable for an advanced beginner) a breeze.

My favorite detail is in the pocket construction. The pockets are shaped and sewn so that they’re secured at the top of the center front. This makes them stay nicely in place and keeps them from flopping around inside the pants. I didn’t know this was something I needed in trousers until now.

Final Thoughts

Do you have a desire to look semi-professional while still feeling comfortable? If so, this pattern combination just might be the one for you. I know it’s the one for me. If I wasn’t wearing a bra with this outfit, I might have worn it to bed. Seriously, that good. Both patterns felt suitable for the advanced beginner. Instructions were clear and I would gladly recommend both.

Here’s the deal: yes, I received both of the patterns in exchange for either a review or testing but; the time, effort, and cost of fabric used in these projects is worth far more than the price of these patterns. I genuinely like both of these patterns and hope you will too!

Thanks for reading!

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#SewFreeFall: Peppermint Wrap Top

Fall is here! The leaves are changing, everything is pumpkin flavored, AND I can walk outside without sweating profusely. The changing of seasons is a glorious time, indeed! It’s inspired me to set a few goals for the last months of the year. One of those goals was to finally sew up some of the free PDF patterns that have been languishing on my hard drive. With that, I present to you #SewFreeFall. Each month I’ll sew up one or two free patterns and share them here. I’ll also include a few round-up posts here and there as I use and discover favorite free patterns (If you’re looking for a pretty exhaustive list, Sew Shannon recently posted an awesome one here). This isn’t a formal challenge as there aren’t currently any prizes to be awarded. Although there aren’t any prizes, I’d love it if you’d join me in sewing up some free patterns. Use the #sewfreefall on IG and share how you’re using free patterns in your fall sewing practice. Who knows? Maybe I’ll get crazy and add in a prize or two at some point.

Peppermint Wrap Top

The first up in my Sew Free Fall queue also happened to be the newest free pattern on my radar; the Peppermint Wrap Top by In the Folds for Peppermint Magazine.

Fabric

This Brussels Washer Linen in Leather Brown has been a favorite since I used some for the Arenite Pants in these photos (original post here). The rayon/linen blend combines the best qualities of each fabric. It has the crinkly texture and breathability of linen with the softness and drape of a rayon. Heaven in a fabric, I tell you. After nearly four months of regular washing and wear, I knew my love for this fabric wasn’t ending any time soon. Once I saw this wrap top pattern, two more yards were quickly purchased.

Sizing and Alterations

Using the measurements provided, I chose to cut a C at the bust graded to a D at the hem. I cut a straight C on the wrap part of the front pieces. The only place I actually graded to a D was on the side seams. As far as fitting goes, the only change I’d make a second time around would be moving the bust darts up about 1/2″ higher. They’re a little low on me as-is. For this version, the dart position didn’t bother me enough to unstitch the french seams. My only other alteration was shortening the sleeves. This decision was made more out of necessity than design choice but, I’m actually quite happy with the result.

Construction

During construction, I closely followed the directions and fully enclosed each seam. The result is a top that is almost as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside. While the instructions were straightforward and decently easy to follow, I would recommend that you read up on french seams if you’ve never done them before. Don’t let that scare you. French seams are one of the easiest ways to get a beautiful seam finish on the inside and I used to teach them to my beginner students when I taught sewing lessons.

If you can set-in a sleeve, sew a french seam, and sew a straight line; you are 100% ready to tackle this wrap top. Taking the time to sew french seams means this wasn’t the quickest sew. However, I was still able to finish it over the course of a couple afternoons.

Final Thoughts

I’ve been dreaming of a linen two-piece set for about a year now. The trickiest issue for me was always deciding on a pattern or fabric combination. When the Wrap Top pattern released, I knew the simple shape and design lines would make an excellent complement to my Arenite Pants. Now, I don’t want to wear anything else. The best part about this outfit is that it gives the look of a jumpsuit while maintaining the option to wear both pieces separately. Three cheers for versatility! It also happens to blend nicely with the background at the park where we snapped these photos. If I played hide-and-seek there, nobody would ever find me.

Overall, I’m delighted with the result of my first Sew Free Fall project. If I make this top again, I’ll address the dart fitting issue but it’s not a big enough one to keep this version from regular wear. The whole outfit is comfortable enough to be criminal. Now, please excuse me while I sew one of these outfits in every available color of Brussels Washer Linen.

Thanks for reading!

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Marilla Walker Isca Shirt with Indy Bindy

Disclosure: The fabric and pattern used in this post were provided to me but, all opinions are honest and my own.

Hello! I think I’m officially at the stage in life where everything feels like a whirlwind. May has been wild. Between family celebrations, Mother’s Day, our wedding anniversary, learning to care for our yard, and a week spent sick in bed, this month disappeared in the blink of an eye. My son’s last day of kindergarten is Friday and I can hardly believe it. How did I become the mother of a school-aged child? Ok, enough lamenting about the quick passage of time. Let’s get to talking about this shirt and especially THIS FABRIC!

FABRIC!!!!

Used an excessive amount of exclamation in that header because these fabrics deserve it. These prints from Indy Bindy Co. are designed by Manri Kishimoto of the Mannine brand and from the ‘Adorable’ themed line. They’re the Sakura Green and Sakura Owl prints which are not yet available on the site (will update links when they are) because they’re being released first to newsletter subscribers (sign up at the bottom of the page here). The fabric is 100% cotton and feels not quite as thin as a lawn but smoother than a quilting cotton. Practically perfect for semi structured tops and dresses. The entire collection is filled with bright colors and quirky characters but I just couldn’t resist using these two coordinates. The print and colors are an unexpected combination that feels worthy of a runway or Anthropologie window display (thinking of you here Katie Kortman).

Pattern

I’ve been eyeing the angled front details of the Isca Shirt Dress by Marilla Walker (the shirt version is a free add on to be used with the dress pattern) since its release, anxiously awaiting the perfect color blocking opportunity. Other pattern features include back contour darts, a curved hem, and 3/4 sleeves (which I opted to make shorter). There are just enough details to make the shirt feel special without going overboard.

Construction

I took my time sewing this shirt and sewed it up in small increments of time over about a week. There are a decent amount of steps, but nothing too complicated for an intermediate sewist. The directions called for lapped seams, but I opted to sew standard straight seams and serge the edges instead. I did, however, use french seams on the sides. I made a slight deviation from the instructions and decided to sew the shoulder reinforcement pieces to the outside (instead of the inside as instructed) for an added contrast detail.

Perhaps my favorite part of the assembly was the collar construction. I’ve inserted somewhere near forty collars over the last five years and never come upon the method used in this pattern. Don’t get me wrong, this method was new to me so the collar is far from perfect. Trying something new was intriguing and I think I’m going to practice this same method next time I construct a shirt collar.

Sizing and Alterations

According to the measurement chart included in the Isca pattern, my bust size was a 3, waist between a 4 and 5, with size 5 hips. Grading between sized was a breeze. I did, however, keep the back darts a straight size 3. I added 1″ to the bodice length and cut the short sleeves at the lengthen/shorten line. With these minor adjustments, the fit is probably the closest to perfect I’ve achieved yet. There are a few small drag lines around the arms that I could probably stand to do something about. Overall, I’m pleased with the fit and don’t know if fixing those lines would be worth the trouble.

Final Thoughts

This shirt feels like one of those pieces I’ll put on whenever I need an extra boost of confidence or a great conversation starter. In fact, I liked it so much that I used my scraps to make my son a coordinating Oliver and S Sketchbook Shirt. Now I think we might have to start our own Indy Bindy bowling team. I also experimented a bit with the styling and think my favorite way to style this is tied in front and paired with Persephone Pants. I contemplated just making a cropped shirt but, kept it long so it will have versatility and become a staple for years to come.

We certainly look like we could bowl away the competition, right?

Now that you’ve made it this far, I’ll leave you with a couple bloopers. Trying to figure out new poses and, well, it’s not going quite as I hoped but makes for a good laugh.

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Retro Inspired Tops with Indiesew

Hello! Today I’m sharing my second post as part of the Indiesew 2019 Blogger Team. After making four pairs of Persephone Pants over the last year, I decided that I needed some retro inspired tops to wear with them during spring and summer. With a couple yards of fabric, two great patterns, and a little bit of hacking, my retro wardrobe dreams are beginning to come true. Ready for all the details? Let’s do this.

Grainline Studio Lark Tee


The Grainline Studio Lark Tee has been a staple in my wardrobe since the pattern release in 2015. Over the years I’ve sewn every sleeve length and neckline option. This time, I wanted something a little different. Initially I had planned to make a button front hack, decided against it, and then thought I’d try a lettuce hem. I haven’t spent quite enough time practicing a lettuce hem to feel confident using it in an entire garment just yet. Hopefully with a bit more practice I’ll have a lettuce hemmed top before the end of the year. Eventually I settled on using a contrasting ribbing on the sleeves, neckline, and hem.

Fabric

This green stripe waffle knit (also available in ice, pink, and blue) has been on my radar for a while now. I could never quite decide on a suitable project. In the end I decided to just order the fabric and let it tell me what it wanted to become. The 100% cotton content makes it breathable and easy to wear. The only drawback to this fabric is the lack of spandex which means there isn’t great recovery once the fabric has been stretched. To remedy that and keep the shirt fitting in the neckline, I used a rayon/spandex rib knit for the bands. Together they make a vintage inspired tee that’s sure to keep me cool and put together all summer long.

Fitting and Alterations

I love a good loosely fitted tee. To achieve a looser fit with the Lark Tee I always sew a size 4 instead of the 2 (where my measurements land). With the sizing sorted, my modifications to achieve this look were quite simple. I chopped 1″ of the short sleeve length and added 1/2″ (finished) bands to the sleeve hems. Originally, I hadn’t planned for the bottom band and cut the shirt pattern as is. Upon trying it on, I didn’t love it so I chopped off 6.5″ from the bottom and added a 2″ band. That’s it. Easiest pattern hack ever. Perhaps next time I would chop an extra 1″ or 2″ off the bottom for a more cropped look. This version toes the line between cropped and regular length.


Construction

Nothing makes me feel more productive than sewing a banded tee or sweatshirt. Deciding on how to hack this tee took longer than the actual making of it. Once I made a decision, sewing this tee took me just over an hour (including interruptions to help or talk with my 5 year old). Such a quick, satisfying sew!

Seamly Jersey Popover

THIS. This Seamly Jersey Popover hack is what has me really feeling all the vintage, retro vibes. After pinning a couple of collared tees to my Apparel Sewing and Inspiration Pinterest board, I knew that I had to make something similar happen. I turned to Indiesew’s large pattern catalog to find a pattern match. When I saw the Jersey Popover, it felt serendipitous. This would be the simplest pattern “hack” I’d ever done.


Fabric

A retro inspired look called for a fabric with an equally retro appearance. The colors and texture of this Blue and White Stripe Pique Knit practically scream 1970’s dad style weekend wear. I’ll be honest and say that I had no idea what a pique knit (apologies to my college Textiles professor) was until I started googling and saw lots of polo shirts made from pique knits. Sold! This fabric had to be mine. I paired this pique knit with the same rayon/spandex rib knit mentioned above for a match made in Brady Bunch heaven.

Fitting and Alterations

According to the sizing chart, my measurements fell right between an extra small and a small. After looking at the finished measurements, I decided to size down to the extra small for a closer fit. With the size determined, I made two small alterations to achieve this hack. First, I cut off the bottom curve for a straight hem. Second, I cut the sleeves 4″ above the sleeve lengthen/shorten line. That’s it. No intense “hacking” necessary.

Construction

Sewing the Jersey Popover was simultaneously simpler and more difficult than I thought. The instructions were great and easily guided me through each step of the process. My difficulties lie in the rib knit used for the plackets and collar. Topstitching it was not an easy task and I opted out of topstitching the collar as a result. I attempted it a couple of times and just couldn’t get a nice looking topstitch on the rib knit. My other issue with the rib knit was that it’s quite thick where several layers are sewn together around the plackets. With some grading and trimming I was able to achieve a passable result.

This was also my first time sewing a knit placket. I’ve sewn plenty of woven plackets in the past, but sewing one in woven is a whole new ball game. With a little bit of patience, Interfacing, and my trusty seam ripper, I made it work. Next time I think I would just use a self fabric instead of the ribbing for plackets with less bulk. Overall, it’s not the worst first attempt so I’m just proud to be honing a new skill.

Conclusions

When my husband saw these outfits he said, “Oooh! very retro.” and then proceeded to ask me if I was headed to play tennis at the country club. Those two responses are a good indicator that I’ve achieved my styling goal with these tops. I mean, who doesn’t want to dress like they’re about to hop in the station wagon and head to the country club? Ok, maybe I’m the only one with that specific style goal in mind. Over the coming months I plan to pair these with my Burnside Bibs and Phillipa Pants in addition to the Persephone Pants seen here. Perhaps I’ll even make a Monarch Jacket to wear over them? hmm… Now, if I start describing things as groovy, someone please snap me back to reality. Until then, I’ll be living in a vintage inspired world of my own creation.

Disclosure: These fabrics and the Jersey Popover pattern were provided to me by Indiesew in exchange for this post. All opinions are my own.

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Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit

Hello! What a week it’s been! I’ve been hosting Nicole’s Birthday Jumpsuit Bash over on Instagram and it’s felt like a whirlwind of giveaways, jumpsuits, and sewing. Yesterday was my actual birthday and I wanted something extra special to wear for a night out. After hemming and hawing for a few weeks about the perfect outfit, I saw Sweet Shard’s Sirocco Jumpsuit Review. I was sold. The Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit would be this year’s birthday suit.

Fabric Choice

Once my pattern decision was made, I set out to scour the internet for the perfect fabric. Honestly, I didn’t have to look far because I had seen Tessa of SewSpoke (on Instagram) make a stunning jacket using a Lady McElroy floral scuba. I went to her source, La Mercerie, and decided this Bold Botanical Scuba was the one. I purchased 2.5 yards and anxiously awaited its arrival. I usually steer clear of anything containing polyester (except for swim) but make the occasional exception for vibrant scuba knits and a beautifully printed polyester crepe. When this fabric arrived, I knew it was worth making an exception. The dimensionality and details of this fabric are nearly impossible to capture in a photo. It’s beautiful and comfortable although the polyester content will restrict this to a spring/fall or evening outfit as I would wither from the heat wearing a polyester jumpsuit in the summer.

Construction and Pattern Details

The Sirocco Jumpsuit features a crossover front, large pockets, a pleated bodice, and a small waistband. There are no closures making it a fairly quick sew. I printed and taped the pattern on Tuesday, cut it out on Wednesday morning, and did most of the sewing on Wednesday afternoon. I did spend about an hour yesterday morning ripping out a bit of the front waistband seam and adjusting the front pant darts for a better fit (they were angling out odd; something I will explain when I discuss fitting in the next section). I spent more time adjusting the fit (due to my own mistake) than actually sewing this jumpsuit. Next time I make this pattern, I’m assuming that it should come together easily in an afternoon or evening.

Fitting

Ah, fitting: The reason I sew and also my least favorite part of the sewing process. First, I made my usual adjustments: Added 1/2″ to the bodice and rise and another 1″ to the leg length. According to the Sirocco measurement chart, my bust is a size 36 with my waist and hips being a size 42. I was nervous about the negative ease in the waistband and the scuba not having enough stretch. As such I decided to size up to a 38 in the bust graded to a 44 at the hips and grading back down to a 36 in the legs. This turned out to be wholly unnecessary.


Once I sewed up the side seams, I found that the jumpsuit was huge! I started taking in the side seams 1/4″ at a time until I achieved the correct fit. The fit was better after taking in the first 1/4″ but still looking proportionally wrong for my body. Again, I started at the top of the side seam tapering to another 1/4″ in (for a total of a 7/8″ seam allowance) at the waist and hips. In the end, I also took an extra 2″ out of the legs (1 and 3/8″ seam allowances at the leg side seam and inseam) before calling the fit good.

Overall, I was happy with the fit but left with one dilemma: the front pant pleats were angling out towards my hips creating a triangle shape. It was not a shape I personally wanted so I set out to fix it. I determined that all of my tinkering with the fit had messed with the position of the pleats. In an effort to remedy this, I ripped out the waist seam just above each of the front pant pleats and pulled the corners of the pleats up into the seam until the pleats were straight down instead of angled out (the corner of the pleats nearest the pocket openings ended up pulled up into the seam by about 1″). With that minor fix. My birthday outfit was complete.

Final Thoughts

After wearing my Sirocco for a night out I think it’s safe to say that it was a hit. I got quite a few compliments, was extremely comfortable, and was able to fully enjoy the chicken and fries I ordered at the comedy club without the worry of my pants feeling too tight. That is always a win. I’d like to try this pattern again in something with maybe a cotton or rayon content for more breathability in the summer. My one qualm is that the waistband does pull a bit in some parts due to the weight of the fabric. I’m wondering if securing it with clear elastic (like the waistband on a knit dress) would help with this issue at all. If you have any tips for that I’d love to hear them. Overall, the pattern was great and worked well with my chosen fabric. It’s certainly one I would recommend and plan to try again.

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Jean Paul Coverall by Ready to Sew

Hello! If you follow me over on Instagram (@nf_merritts), you may know that I’m celebrating all week with Nicole’s Birthday Jumpsuit Bash. I’ve loved the idea of jumpsuits for years but, wasn’t able to wear ready to wear jumpsuits without serious discomfort due to my long torso. Two years ago I sewed my first jumpsuit (an Anza Jumpsuit) and fell in love. Since then my handmade jumpsuit collection has grown by a few each year. This Ready to Sew Jean Paul Coverall is the fifth addition to my growing collection. I was enamored with the pattern upon its release last year and have been patiently biding my time until I could make a spring/summer appropriate version. The time has come and I’ll probably live in these for the foreseeable future. Are you ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Fabric Choice

When planning this make I had a vision of spring and summer days spent outside with my son. As such, I needed a fabric that would be light and comfortable. After a bit of deliberation and some help from Erin (@erinalwayssews) I settled on this Tencel Twill in Ginger from Imagine Gnats (they were kind enough to provide this fabric for me as part of my Birthday Jumpsuit Bash). The fabric turned out to be everything I was hoping and more. The fabric has beautiful drape, is slightly easier to sew than rayon, and the color is even lovelier in person. All the online raving about tencel twill is true. This was my third time working with the substrate and it’s a dream every time.

Pattern Details and Construction

The Jean Paul Coverall and its expansion are jam packed with interesting details. In fact, this was probably one of the most time consuming clothing items I’ve ever sewn. There are large pockets on front and back, button plackets, a front and back pleat detail, front fly, ample topstitching, a drawstring waist (from the expansion),and a collar. Making this was equivalent to the work it takes to make both jeans and a button up shirt. The effort was 100% worth it as I plan to never take this off.


While this jumpsuit was a ton of work, it was also a satisfying sew. Topstitching is one of my favorite sewing tasks and I got a decent amount of practice as almost every detail is carefully topstitched. It also made fixing my mistakes take a bit longer. I got cozy with the seam ripper a few times redoing the collar and fixing the button plackets. I’ve made at least 30 collars and button plackets over the years and occasionally still make mistakes. Honestly, neither looked awful before but they weren’t quite to my standard either. I debated leaving my mistakes but with a project this time consuming, it was worth the extra minutes to redo those imperfections and love the final product.

Speaking of imperfections, there is one on this jumpsuit that I couldn’t correct. That issue is the twisting on my right leg. My left leg is just fine without any real twisting so I know that the issue lies with me and not with the pattern. Twisting usually occurs in pants when the legs weren’t cut on the proper grain. As careful as I try to be this does occasionally happen when cutting in a double layer. Note to self: Always cut pants in a single layer. The issue wasn’t noticed until one of my later try-ons and by then it was too late to do much about it beyond completely scrapping those pieces. It doesn’t affect the comfort of this outfit and likely won’t be noticed by anyone who doesn’t sew so I won’t let it bother me too much and just chalk it up to a lesson learned.

Fitting

According to the sizing chart, my measurements put me at a size 38 bust, and size 42 at the waist and hips. This made grading fairly simple. Just below the bust darts I began grading the pattern to a 42 waist. On the pattern pieces it seemed like a steep angle but ended up looking just fine in the final product. Other fitting adjustments I made were adding 1/2″ to the rise on the front and back pants and 2″ to the length. I also added 1/2″ in length to both the front and back bodice pieces. Being able to add length is what drew me to sewing my own jumpsuits. Nobody deserves to be left out of jumpsuit wearing because their torso is longer, shorter, rounder, or thinner than the “standard” sizing for ready to wear clothing.


One last fitting modification was tapering the legs a bit. My calves and ankles are a good 2 sizes smaller than my waist and hips. It used to be something that made me quite self conscious as I was sometimes teased about walking on toothpick legs. Once I became an adult and realized a person’s body shape or size has exactly zero to do with thier worth, those kind of comments stopped bothering me. Ok, back to the leg tapering. I first basted the pant sides as is. Honestly it didn’t look bad but was a bit frumpy due to my proportions. Starting just under the front pockets I ended up tapering the seam until I had taken it in an extra 1/2″ at the bottom of the legs. This extra 1/2″ taken out of a seam meant that the bottom of the legs were taken in by about 2″. The taper isn’t so extreme as to make the pants uncomfortable but, just enough to feel proportional to my body.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I’m happy with this make although there is some noted room for improvement in my next version. Next time I’ll budget more time for the construction, cut the leg pieces in a single layer and pay more careful attention to the fly (it looks nice, just not quite perfect). Next time I sew this pattern I plan to make the dress version possibly in a rayon/linen blend. Although I honestly wouldn’t be opposed to sewing this same version in a rainbow of tencel twill (I have my eyes on this Mallard color from Imagine Gnats). After sewing for years and making a myriad of projects, it’s nice to make something that humbles me again. Sometimes I overestimate my skill and underestimate the time something will take. This was one of those times. This project doesn’t actually take significant skill, just a willingness to slow down and take your time while sewing. My mistakes don’t make me like this garment any less, in fact, they make me thankful for the lessons learned and I still plan to wear the heck out of this thing.