Posted on

Suit Up for Summer 2021 with Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Whew! What a year it’s been. Last year’s 2020 Suit Up for Summer blog tour was the last collaboration posted on my blog. Fortunately, the 2021 tour was the perfect opportunity to jump back into it.

This year I tried to keep things simple by sewing up two suits: one for myself and one for my son. They didn’t go quite as smoothly as planned but, all worked out ok in the end. Let’s get to it.

SUIT #1: A FLUTTER SLEEVE SEABRIGHT SWIMMER

FABRIC AND INSPIRATION

Fabric – Multi Stripe Swim, Inspiration

I can never say no to a good stripe and this pastel stripe swim knit immediately caught my attention. After selecting my fabric, a Pinterest and Google deep dive led me to find this Boden Limnos Wrap Swimsuit. I was drawn to the simple, romantic lines and the sun coverage on the shoulders.

CREATING THE SUIT

The Friday Pattern Company Seabright Swimmer seemed like a perfect starting point for my suit. I made a few small alterations to the pattern to get a look closer to the inspiration photo. The first simple one was overlapping the front wrap pieces by an extra two inches instead of meeting at the center front. Second, I added sewn in foam cups. Finally, I changed the sleeve to a small flutter. Below you’ll find a quick tutorial on how I created the flutter sleeve from the existing pattern piece.

SIZING

Based on my measurements, I chose to sew a Medium at the bust (I was between a Small and Medium) and grade to a Large at the waist and hips. I had no issues with the sizing and think the final suit fits quite well.

FLUTTER SLEEVE TUTORIAL
  • First, Grab your sleeve pattern piece. Cut it to your desired length. I cut mine about 3.25″ below the bottom of the armhole.
  • Then, start at the center and draw vertical lines every 1″.
  • Cut each line from the bottom. Just up to, but not through the top of the sleeve.
  • Place your cut sleeve piece on top of more paper and spread them each cut line apart evenly. Tape in place. I spread mine apart by 1″ at each cut line. If I had to do it again, I’d add a little more fullness and spread by 1.5″ at each cut line.
  • Redraw the bottom of your sleeve pattern piece.
  • Cut out your new pattern piece.
  • That’s it. Cut two mirrored pieces out of your fabric and follow pattern instructions for attaching the sleeve. You can hem the sleeves if desired. I left mine un-hemmed.
SEWING

This suit took about four times as long as it should have. First, I decided that I didn’t want the hassle of trying to match the stripes along the back so I removed seam allowances and combined the back bodice and back bottom pieces into one. It looks nice, but required me to change up the construction. This required too much thinking for someone who’s out of practice improvising and I spent a lot of time seam ripping my mistakes until I figured out a workable solution. In the end, the suit is fully lined but the side seams are just exposed serged seams on the inside. Not my most professional finish but, since nobody else will see them, I’m not bothered.

Overall, I didn’t mind sewing the pattern. It was a good pattern and the issues were all of my own doing. Trying not to destroy swim lining and swim knit when ripping seams for the second, third, and fourth times was a challenge and I may have uttered several choice words as I was doing it.

THOUGHTS ON THE FINAL SUIT

Despite saying this every time I make a swimsuit, this one might be my favorite. With a decent amount of sun coverage (hello, fully covered back and shoulders) and just a hint of skin with the low neckline, it feels sexy and practical all at once. If I made this suit again, my only changes would be adding some extra volume to the flutter sleeves and extending the shoulder seams out towards my arms by about 1/2″.

Now, for a quick tangent about these images because I love how they turned out. We don’t have a pretty place with decent lighting in our house for photos, our yard is muddy and dull this time of year, and I don’t really want to take photos in a public place in my swimsuit when its 40 degrees outside. So, each year we’ve made due by hanging a curtain in the garage and using it as a backdrop for swimsuit photos.

Maybe I just watched too much of it (made it through the full season twice) but the coloring of this stripe reminded me of Bridgerton. So, inspired by Bridgerton, I wanted to create images that felt simultaneously soft and bold. I purchased 2.5 yards of this floral ponte (now retired, sorry) also from Raspberry Creek to use as a backdrop.

Remember how I kept making mistakes and this suit took significantly longer to make? Well, we were originally supposed to photograph this suit last Thursday which was a beautiful, sunny day with highs in the 60’s. Instead, by the time the suit was finished, the only time we had to take photographs was on a cloudy, rainy Saturday morning with highs in the 40’s. The cloudy day made my garage too dark for photos so, our only option was outside. My husband had a good laugh as I was outside wearing my large snow boots setting up the backdrop. Then, he was a great sport as we spent about 15 minutes in the rain snapping these shots. By the time we took the ones where I’m sitting down, both my suit and the fabric were soaked through. What do you think? Were the images worth it?

SUIT #2: SEW LIKE MY MOM PALM EURO SUIT

I’ve been sewing this pattern for my son since the pattern’s release in 2018. He’s owned maybe a dozen of them through the years and loves the comfort of the fully lined and fully enclosed seams. I sewed up a straight size 7 and the fit is spot on. A pair can be sewn up in about an hour and uses surprisingly little fabric. This suit used less than half a yard (although I still needed 1/2″ for the length of the legs). He chose the rainbow floral swim knit from Raspberry Creek for this pair of jammers and I love how they turned out! He was so pleased with the suit that, after these photos, he wore it under his clothes for the rest of the day.

Due to the cold, we didn’t get many photos of him in his suit as he didn’t want to be out in the rain long and I wasn’t about to force him to do so. We snapped what we could get in less than 5 minutes.

Thanks for reading! I hope you enjoyed this stop on the Suit Up for Summer 2021 blog tour. Be sure to check out all the other talented creatives this week as they share their suits. You don’t want to miss them!

Sew Mary Mac  Merritts Makes  Wild + Wanderful  Call Ajaire

Made by Kates  Violet and Jewels  Sweet Mama Life  All Things Katy!

Intensely Distracted  Pins & Pinot  My Heart Will Sew On  The Petite Sewist

All My Spare Time  Kara Metta  Handcrafted by RED  Sincerely, Shantelle

Replicate Then Deviate  That’s Sew Kari  Desert Blooms  Boo + Lu





Titchy Threads  Sew A Little Seam  Simple Life Pattern Co.  Pattern for Pirates  Ellie and Mac  

Lowland Kids  Gingham Hive  Striped Swallow Designs  Honeydew Kisses  Little Lizard King  

Jennuine Designs  Greenstyle Creations  Made for Mermaids  Call Ajaire  Hey June  Boo Designs! 

  Sofiona Designs  Love Notions  Lil Luxe Collection  Jalie  Sweet Red Poppy


Posted on

Joan Trousers with Bonus Sheridan Sweater

Hello! Wishing you all a happy new year! Yesterday, in an ostentatious end to 2019, I finished my first Sew Fancy Pants project: A pair of polka dotted Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with accompanying Hey June Sheridan Sweater. Now I’m wondering how I’ve lived my life without a matching set such as this one. Read on for all the details.

Fabric

I’ve had my eye on this Double Face Sweater Knit from La Mercerie since Adrianna of Hey June used it for her Evans Blazer sample. I promised myself that if La Mercerie had a Black Friday sale and this was still available then, I could buy it. Thankfully, the fabric gods were on my side and I was able to purchase 3.5 yards.

What’s that? Oh, you noticed those matching earrings? Why, yes. I did make them specifically to match this outfit.

Sheridan Sweater

Adrianna’s Polka Dot Sheridan Sweater (sample in listing photos) was actually the catalyst behind this entire outfit. Upon seeing it, I was smitten with the bell sleeves and couldn’t get the idea of a matching sweater set out of my head. The shape of the sweater combined with this polka dot fabric feels a little bit 1960’s mod and I am here for it.

This Sheridan is view B with bell sleeves. Size is a 6 graded to a 10 at the hips with 1″ of length added to the bodice and sleeves.

Sewing the Sheridan took about two hours including the time it took me to sit down and eat breakfast with my son. Really, it was that easy. Now I need to hurry up and order more of this fabric to make a Sheridan Dress.

Joan Trousers

Friday Pattern Company describes the Joan Trousers as “treggings” (trouser/leggings). It’s an accurate description of a clothing item I didn’t know I needed in my life. They combine the comfort of pajama pants with the look of tailored trousers (pockets! belt loops! faux button front waistband!) Sure, they look more casual in this particular fabric but, in a nice solid ponte or double knit, they’d be office ready in no time.

This time around I used all the same adjustments made to my first pair. Sewed a size large with 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, and 3″ added to the length (Just FYI: since this pattern doesn’t include a lengthen shorten line at the rise, I simply added the 1/2″ to the top of the front and back pieces as well as the pocket and pocket lining pieces). Again, I chose to slightly taper the straight, wide legs for a slight cigarette pant look. These ones are tapered slightly less than my first pair as I was worried about this particular fabric looking like leggings if too slim.

Construction took somewhere between 3-4 hours. This time around, I paid careful attention to my markings and sewing went off without a hitch. Sewing instructions were straightforward with the trickiest part being the attachment of elastic to inner waistband. Sewing might have been even quicker if I hadn’t worn them around for a few minutes while determining a final hem length.

Final Thoughts

Despite the fact that my son called this outfit pajamas (“Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”), I will proudly wear this outfit both separately and together in public. Separately, the trousers will likely be paired with one of my many Nikko Tops for a polished, business casual look. The Sheridan will look just right paired with high waisted jeans or wide leg pants. In fact, I’m just about to try it on with a few pairs of my handmade pants to determine my favorite pairing. Will report back.

Pretty sure this photo was snapped at the exact moment my son said, “Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”

This was my second time sewing up a pair of Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with the intention of a matching set. The first time they were paired with the Hey June Evans Blazer (read more about that set here). Clearly, I have a thing with pairing patterns from the two companies. Perhaps next time, I should mix it up by sewing a pair of Hey June Pants and wearing it with a Friday Pattern Company top? Now, which ones to choose? Adrienne Blouse and Kendrick Overalls? Maybe a Wilder Top and Bryce Cargo Pants? Let me know what you think below!

Thanks for reading!

Posted on

Wedding Ready with the Evans Blazer and Joan Trousers

Hello! This last week has been filled with all kinds of family festivities. Last Saturday we celebrated my brother’s wedding. Following the wedding, my sister and her children came and stayed with us until yesterday. Having children to play with all week was a dream come true for my only child and spending time with my sister was one for me. There were a few minor hiccups when one child got sick in the movie theater (before we knew he was sick), all three children ended up sick, and I put the turkey in the oven one hour late after not setting an alarm. Despite a wild few days, I’m left feeling grateful for family that is down to roll with the punches and take on life’s bumps together. It was a lovely week overall and we’re missing our family already. Enough about my week. Let’s get down to the reason I’m writing this post: My secret pajamas wedding suit.

Fabric

One week before my brother’s wedding, I still had no clue what I wanted to wear. That is, until I was browsing Stylemaker Fabrics and discovered this Dusty Rose Ponte Knit. Inspiration struck and 3.5 yards were ordered.

Joan Trousers

The Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers have been on my to-sew list since I wrote a Sew Fancy Pants Fabric Inspiration (Beginner Edition) post in January. Eleven months later, I purchased the pattern and got to work. Based on my measurements, I cut a Large, added 1/2″ to the rise (there isn’t I lengthen shorten line here so I added it at the top), and added 3″ to the leg length at the lengthen/shorten line. Inspired by bluefloralneedles and pinkcoatclub, the legs were tapered for a cigarette pant vibe.

Sewing the Joan Trousers was quick and relatively painless. Most of the sewing took place one afternoon. I was nearing the finish line when I noticed that I’d accidentally placed the belt loops along the wrong markings. One hour of seam ripping later, the belt loops were correctly attached and I was on my way to a finished pair of pants.

Evans Blazer

Since it’s release, the Hey June Evans Blazer has been near the top of my favorites list. This one didn’t turn out quite as well as I’d like (mostly because this fabric is on the lighter side) but, it’s still wearable, just needs a bit of tweaking.

Based on the size chart, I cut a 6 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. Added 1/2″ of length to the blazer and 1″ of length to the sleeves. Size wise, all of these alterations seemed about right.

Before I get into the issues I had, I want to clarify that the sizing and instructions were accurate and thorough. The following issues had to do with my fabric choice, not the pattern. I fully intend to make this pattern again in a better suited fabric.

First, my fabric is a lightweight rayon/nylon ponte and has a bit of drape. This means the collar doesn’t stay in place on it’s own. I did hand tack a couple of spots on the collar but, they came undone after a bit of dancing and child wrangling. Now that the wedding is over, I plan to go back and hand tack the entire collar.

Second, also due to the lightweight nature of the fabric, my hem had to be sewn by machine. I spent an hour making a hand sewn blind hem on the blazer bottom and it DID NOT look good. While not sold on the visible topstitching, it’s better than what I had before. Perhaps I’ve lost my blind hemming skills after not using them for a while but the small divots made by the blind hem were extremely noticeable in this color and fabric weight. A darker color would likely not have the same result. The visible stitching makes the blazer more casual than intended.

Final Thoughts

Despite my fabric issues with the Evans Blazer, I’m quite pleased with the overall look created here. Many of my brother’s wedding guests complimented my pink pantsuit while the knit fabric kept me comfortable throughout set up, take down, and everything in between. The trousers are bound to become a staple and with a little work, the blazer will become one as well.

Thanks for reading!

Posted on

Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown

Hello! While the calendar says September, the Utah heat has me feeling like summer may stick around indefinitely. With temperatures still in the 90’s I figured I could squeeze in one last summer project. Cue the Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown. Getting this project out of my head and into my closet was just what I needed this week. Alright, let’s get to the details.

Fabric

I saw this rayon crepe(currently sold out) fabric on the Indiesew website back in January. At the time I was having a seriously rough week and something about the pattern and colors of this fabric brought a smile to my face. The next day, Allie showed this fabric on Instagram stories and I knew it was meant to be. So, I did what any fabric lover would do and panic bought four yards. A couple of days later it arrived and then sat brightening my shelf for the next eight months.

This particular rayon crepe is lightweight and surprisingly opaque. Unwashed, it was smooth and felt much like a standard rayon challis. Upon washing, however, it developed this lovely crinkled texture. The texture of the fabric is a great complement to the tropical print. It did, however, present some challenges for cutting. Some of the pieces didn’t turn out quite straight but, the pattern is forgiving enough that I just straightened them after each sewing step.

Sizing and Alterations

Based on the size chart, my bust measurements fell under a size small. The Wilder Gown pattern includes plenty of ease, so I decided not to grade up for my waist or hips. I also decided to add a bit of length. I added 1/2″ to the bodice length and 1″ to the length of each skirt tier.

Sewing and Construction

The gown was constructed over the course of two afternoons. The sewing itself was quick and enjoyable. It probably could’ve been finished in one if my machine had gotten along with my thread choice. I found some cheap matching thread in my stash and decided to forego a trip to the store and use it. Bad choice. My machine clanked and whined even after a thorough cleaning, rethreading, and a needle change. In a last ditch attempt to avoid sending my machine in for a tune-up, I changed the thread. Magically, my machine decided to work perfectly once again. After about an hour spent on troubleshooting I found that the machine really just didn’t like my chosen thread in the bobbin. In the end, I solved my issue by using the cheap thread on top and a better quality (not perfectly matched) thread in the bobbin.

Final Thoughts

I wasn’t initially sold on wearing this particular silhouette. Perhaps the issue was that my first try on was over my clothes in my unorganized sewing room. However, I put on make-up, grabbed some favorite earrings, and paired the dress with clogs for photos. Turns out that styling made all the difference for me. Now, I can’t wait to put this dress on again. It’s comfortable, breezy, and feels like a nightgown in all the best ways. I mean, look at my expression in the photo below. That girl clearly loves what she’s wearing.

The only drawback to this dress? The bees seemed drawn to the bright colors and I had one follow me for most of the walk back to my car last night. After landing on my dress, it finally recognized that I was not a plant and left me alone. With that being the only drawback, I’d call this Wilder Gown a win and the perfect way to end my summer sewing. Now, it’s been raining all morning and I’m itching to get started on some fall projects. Anyone else?

Thanks for reading!