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Sew Fancy Pants Project 5: Closet Case Patterns Jenny Overalls

Hello again! Today I’m back on the #sewfancypants train with this pair of tapered leg Jenny Overalls. I’ve loved overalls for as long as I can remember and can find at least three “first day of school” pictures in which I’m wearing a pair. Surprisingly, I was on the fence about this pattern for a while until seeing Sara’s tapered corduroy Jenny Overalls. Her version won me over and I knew these were the pants I needed in my life. In fact, these were the first pants I planned when throwing around the idea of the Sew Fancy Pants challenge.

Fabric

Often I plan projects after finding the perfect fabric, this time though, I planned this project around the pattern. After searching through several online shops, I saw this 14 oz Cone Mills Dark Olive Denim (use code ‘Fancy15’ to save 15% through Jan. 31st) from Sewing Studio. Karleen was kind enough to send me this fabric for use in this post and I was delighted when it arrived. The deep color and substantial weight of this denim is perfect for a hefty, durable pair of overalls. I was nervous that my machine would have difficulty handling several layers, but with fresh, sharp denim needles it handled just fine. Only one needle was sacrificed in the making of these overalls.

Fitting

According to the size chart included with the Jenny overalls, my measurements put me right between a 10 and a 12. In previous experiences with Closet Case Patterns, I’ve sized down when in between sizes and had success. I chose to cut a size 10 and use pattern pieces from a tapered leg pants pattern as a reference when straightening out the legs. The original shape of the crotch and waist seams were kept the same when doing this. One mistake I made when cutting the fabric was not adding my standard 1/2″ of length to the front and back rise. This mistake likely led to more fitting work than I estimated.

I went through three baste-fittings, attempting to attain a ‘good fit.’ I found this post by Closet Case Patterns and this post by Melly Sews good references while fitting. I had quite a wedgie in the back so I scooped the back crotch a bit and that seemed to work. My other fit issue were some serious lines in the front. After examining them, I determined the best course of action to be a bit of a round pubis adjustment. Both of these adjustments seemed to help my major issues and after several days of fitting work; I decided to call the fit ‘good enough.’ It’s not perfect, but I’m happy with it and plan to wear these despite any imperfections.

Construction

As I’ve come to expect from Closet Case Patterns, the instructions were fairly detailed and I didn’t have any issues understanding them. These overalls were the most intensive and time consuming of all my Sew Fancy Pants projects. After spending 3 evenings on fitting, I spent 4 on the construction. The first evening was spent on prepping pockets, the second attaching pockets and inserting the zipper, the third attaching the bib portion to the pants, and the fourth on hems and hardware. While intensive, I wouldn’t consider this project more difficult than any of the jeans I’ve made and I quite enjoyed making a distinctively different from my other recent projects.

Details

Something that will always draw me to overalls is the perfect criss-cross of their straps. I’m not sure what makes me love them, but that ‘x’ across the back gets me every single time. The pattern also includes Interestingly angled bib pockets with front pants pockets having openings that similarly mirror those angles. The curved back pockets provide a nice contrast to all the included angles while also flattering the backside. Overall, I’m smitten with the detailed look of these overalls and took my time sewing each one.

Conclusions

It felt deeply satisfying to check this pair of overalls off my list. They’re more traditional than my Ronja Dungarees and Burnside Bibs and I love having a pair of overalls that hints at traditional, but provides a lovely twist with the dark olive color. I see them acting as a neutral in my wardrobe and pairing well with many of my tops, but love them paired here with my favorite Archer Shirt. The beautifully hefty fabric is sure to last well and my hope is that I’ll be able to wear these Jenny Overalls for years to come.

Thanks for reading!

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Named Clothing Ronja Dungarees

I’ve loved overalls for as long as I can remember. In fact, last time I was at my parents’ house, I looked through old photo albums and found two first day of school pictures in which I’m wearing overalls. I even brought my newborn son home from the hospital in a tiny pair of overalls because teeny tiny overalls will always win my heart. Every time overalls come back in style I find myself poring over photos and planning all the possible outfits. Basically, I have a love affair with overalls and will likely continue to wear them long after they’re no longer “in style.” With that said, I’d like to introduce you to my Named Clothing Ronja Dungarees (find them here). The Ronja Dungarees feature front and back pockets, button closures, a cropped ankle-length, plenty of top-stitching, and tie straps. There’s no shortage of details and I love that about this pattern.

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I added these lovely flower buttons (purchase here) from Arrow Mountain. I’ve almost exclusively used Arrow Mountain buttons since discovering them over a year ago. Good quality, stylish buttons are sometimes hard to find, but I find myself wanting to buy ALL the Arrow Mountain buttons (see more ways I’ve used them here, here, and here).

IMG_1648IMG_1676 When choosing my fabric, I was presented with the dilemma of whether to use a print or a solid. I waffled back and forth between the two until I remembered that I had some of this Euclid fabric in my stash. This is a print designed by Carolyn Friedlander for Robert Kaufman Fabrics. It is printed on their Essex Linen which is a cotton/linen blend. The weight of the fabric is somewhere between a canvas and a quilting cotton. It doesn’t have much drape which makes it great for a bit more structured pants and skirts. As per usual, I purchased the fabric from Suppose.

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These are constructed in a way that makes it a bit difficult to test garment fit as you sew, because of this I would highly recommend sewing a muslin first. Sometimes, out of pure laziness, I ignore my own advice.  This was one of those times.  I pretty much just held my breath and hoped the overalls would fit in the end. I was expecting my Ronja Dungarees to be fun but; I did not expect that they would actually flatter my back side. This was a pleasant surprise. My husband even remarked that these overalls were “very flattering.” I’m almost certain that the words “overalls” and “flattering” are rarely used in the same sentence. I mean, I definitely don’t usually reach for overalls and think “Man, I look good in these.” These Ronjas make me feel that way and it’s a fun change from my regular momiform of loose flowy dresses.

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The challenge of sewing something a bit more advanced after many simple projects, was a great refresher for me. It’s sometimes nice to change the pace and sew something one small step at a time instead of all at once. This pattern reignited my love of overalls, and I’ve already purchased the Burnside Bibs pattern by Sew House Seven. How do you feel about overalls? Are you over them?

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I’ll leave you with a few notes on my sizing and alterations: I am close to 5’10” and sewed a size 38 with few length modifications. Named Clothing drafts for a height of 5’8″ so I decided not to add any length to the rise and add elsewhere instead. I added 1/2″ of length at the bust, 1″ of length at the thigh, and 1″ of length at the knee. I’m really happy with the length and think it will be great for late summer and transition well into early fall.