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Wedding Ready with the Evans Blazer and Joan Trousers

Hello! This last week has been filled with all kinds of family festivities. Last Saturday we celebrated my brother’s wedding. Following the wedding, my sister and her children came and stayed with us until yesterday. Having children to play with all week was a dream come true for my only child and spending time with my sister was one for me. There were a few minor hiccups when one child got sick in the movie theater (before we knew he was sick), all three children ended up sick, and I put the turkey in the oven one hour late after not setting an alarm. Despite a wild few days, I’m left feeling grateful for family that is down to roll with the punches and take on life’s bumps together. It was a lovely week overall and we’re missing our family already. Enough about my week. Let’s get down to the reason I’m writing this post: My secret pajamas wedding suit.

Fabric

One week before my brother’s wedding, I still had no clue what I wanted to wear. That is, until I was browsing Stylemaker Fabrics and discovered this Dusty Rose Ponte Knit. Inspiration struck and 3.5 yards were ordered.

Joan Trousers

The Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers have been on my to-sew list since I wrote a Sew Fancy Pants Fabric Inspiration (Beginner Edition) post in January. Eleven months later, I purchased the pattern and got to work. Based on my measurements, I cut a Large, added 1/2″ to the rise (there isn’t I lengthen shorten line here so I added it at the top), and added 3″ to the leg length at the lengthen/shorten line. Inspired by bluefloralneedles and pinkcoatclub, the legs were tapered for a cigarette pant vibe.

Sewing the Joan Trousers was quick and relatively painless. Most of the sewing took place one afternoon. I was nearing the finish line when I noticed that I’d accidentally placed the belt loops along the wrong markings. One hour of seam ripping later, the belt loops were correctly attached and I was on my way to a finished pair of pants.

Evans Blazer

Since it’s release, the Hey June Evans Blazer has been near the top of my favorites list. This one didn’t turn out quite as well as I’d like (mostly because this fabric is on the lighter side) but, it’s still wearable, just needs a bit of tweaking.

Based on the size chart, I cut a 6 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. Added 1/2″ of length to the blazer and 1″ of length to the sleeves. Size wise, all of these alterations seemed about right.

Before I get into the issues I had, I want to clarify that the sizing and instructions were accurate and thorough. The following issues had to do with my fabric choice, not the pattern. I fully intend to make this pattern again in a better suited fabric.

First, my fabric is a lightweight rayon/nylon ponte and has a bit of drape. This means the collar doesn’t stay in place on it’s own. I did hand tack a couple of spots on the collar but, they came undone after a bit of dancing and child wrangling. Now that the wedding is over, I plan to go back and hand tack the entire collar.

Second, also due to the lightweight nature of the fabric, my hem had to be sewn by machine. I spent an hour making a hand sewn blind hem on the blazer bottom and it DID NOT look good. While not sold on the visible topstitching, it’s better than what I had before. Perhaps I’ve lost my blind hemming skills after not using them for a while but the small divots made by the blind hem were extremely noticeable in this color and fabric weight. A darker color would likely not have the same result. The visible stitching makes the blazer more casual than intended.

Final Thoughts

Despite my fabric issues with the Evans Blazer, I’m quite pleased with the overall look created here. Many of my brother’s wedding guests complimented my pink pantsuit while the knit fabric kept me comfortable throughout set up, take down, and everything in between. The trousers are bound to become a staple and with a little work, the blazer will become one as well.

Thanks for reading!

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Clementine Top and Crew Trousers

Disclosure: The pattern for the Clementine Top was given to me in exchange for a review and I received the Crew Trousers in exchange for my participation in the pattern test (no obligation to promote). All opinions are honest and my own.

Hello all! Today I’ve got a couple of my latest makes to share with you: The Forget Me Not Patterns Clementine Top and the newly released Chalk and Notch Crew Trousers. Combined these two make a look that I’d describe as business casual. My current work environment (as a seamstress and SAHM), only requires that I’m clothed and looking alive for daily activities. However, if I did work outside the home, I have a feeling that this is how I’d want to represent myself. Maybe I’ll pull this out for date night instead. Ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Clementine Top

Fabric

I purchased one yard of this marbled scuba knit from Stylemaker Fabrics (sold out but check out their current selection of scuba knits here) in January 2018. Originally, I intended for it to be a Lodo hacked into a top. It never happened and this fabric languished on my shelf for 18+ months. Fast forward to a few weeks ago when it dawned on me that this scuba would be the perfect pairing for the Forget Me Not Clementine Top. The weight of the scuba gives a modern, stiff drape to the cowl and highlights the structure of the princess seams. Match made in sewing heaven.

Sizing

Based on my measurements, I chose to cut and sew a size 36. Technically, my bust fell in a 34 but, I chose to sew a 36 for simplicity and the sizing turned out great. The photos here don’t highlight it quite as well as I’d like but the fitting on the back is especially fantastic. The princess seams make it fit like a glove with no swayback drooping. My only alteration was adding 1/2″ to the top length at the hems. Other than that, I sewed the pattern up as-is.

Construction

The Clementine pattern instructions were clear and easy to follow. Clear instructions combined with a cooperative fabric made this a quick and simple sew. I spent one afternoon on assembly, then hemmed the top and sleeves the next morning. The cowl neck and princess seams added enough detail to make the sewing process satisfying as well.

Crew Trousers

Fabric

A few weeks ago, along with ladies in my local sewing group the “Salty Sewists,” I made a little afternoon trip to visit Harmony in Provo, Utah. It’s a darling store filled with fabric, yarn, and all the best little gifts packed into a small pioneer age house. Oh, the charm! I picked up this coral pink Tencel Twill and knew it would make the perfect pants. The fabric is opaque, has great drape, AND the front side has a brushed texture that feels suede-like. Working with it was fairly easy, although I did have one spot on the waistband where I accidentally stretched the fabric, creating some small bubbles along the waistband. Luckily, that’s covered by a pretty bow so it’s not really a big deal.

Sizing and Alterations

Over the last few years, I’ve sewn nearly every Chalk and Notch women’s pattern. You could say I’m a bit of a fan. It also means that I trust in Gabriela’s ability to get sizing and measurements right. Based on the measurement chart and Gabriela’s recommendation, I chose a size 10 for the waist and hips then graded to a 6 at the thighs and legs. I also ended up removing about 1/2″ of the width around the ankles for a slightly larger taper. My other adjustments were standard for me: 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, 1″ length added at the above knee lengthen line, and 1/2″ length added at the below knee lengthen line. Just going to take a minute here and stress the importance of lengthen lines above AND below the knee on pants. Everyone’s legs are proportioned differently. My calf length is likely not the same as another person of my height and may be the same as someone shorter or taller. If you are thinking about designing a pants pattern, it will make everyone’s life easier when you include both. There we go. Off my soapbox now.

Construction

Despite sewing 90% of my wardrobe over the last several years, I wouldn’t consider myself a quick sewist. Many experienced sewists can whip up a tee shirt in an hour. Often, it takes me two. Pants are no exception. I’ve made probably 10 pairs over the last year and still find myself taking my time to get each step finished well. With that in mind, sewing these pants took me somewhere between 6-7 hours total.

I sewed these over the course of a day while also taking care of my son, getting him off to school, picking him up, cooking dinner, cleaning dishes, and while sitting across the table from my mother (so I might have gotten distracted with chatting). As per usual, Gabriela’s instructions were concise and included plenty of illustrations. This made inserting a lapped zipper (the hardest part: which is totally doable for an advanced beginner) a breeze.

My favorite detail is in the pocket construction. The pockets are shaped and sewn so that they’re secured at the top of the center front. This makes them stay nicely in place and keeps them from flopping around inside the pants. I didn’t know this was something I needed in trousers until now.

Final Thoughts

Do you have a desire to look semi-professional while still feeling comfortable? If so, this pattern combination just might be the one for you. I know it’s the one for me. If I wasn’t wearing a bra with this outfit, I might have worn it to bed. Seriously, that good. Both patterns felt suitable for the advanced beginner. Instructions were clear and I would gladly recommend both.

Here’s the deal: yes, I received both of the patterns in exchange for either a review or testing but; the time, effort, and cost of fabric used in these projects is worth far more than the price of these patterns. I genuinely like both of these patterns and hope you will too!

Thanks for reading!

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Frisco Jumpsuit Pants Hack

(Disclosure: I was a tester for the Frisco Jumpsuit which means I received the pattern for free in exchange for my honest feedback during pattern testing. I was not obligated in any way to write a blog post or share about this pattern.)

Hello there! It’s been a minute or two. August has been all about spending time with my son before school started. After nearly a month off of sewing and blogging, I’m feeling recharged and ready to hit the ground running. First up, it’s time I told you about these pants I made back in July. They’re a hack of the newly released Threadbear Garments Frisco Jumpsuit. I’ve been waiting to share this post until I took styled photos of the actual jumpsuit I made during testing. Alas, that doesn’t seem to be happening so I decided to just go for it. Let’s get down to the details.

Fabric

Earlier this year, I made a Five Points Blouse (the one I’m wearing in these photos) using the navy stripe Verona Voile by Telio Fabrics. After a few months of wear, I loved the fabric so much that I decided to order more in a new color. I purchased this deep olive stripe cotton/rayon voile from Fabric.com via Amazon. The fabric feels so lightweight that sometimes I have to double check I’m actually wearing clothing. Basically, it’s a summer dream.

Sizing

During testing I discovered that Leslie’s pattern block happened to fit quite well with few alterations. For this project, I sewed a straight size 10 with 3 inches added to the leg length.

Hacking the Jumpsuit into Pants

This “hack” is actually such a breeze that I feel almost embarrassed to call it a pattern hack. Want to make your own Frisco pants? Just follow the next few steps:

  1. Grab your pattern pieces for the pant legs, waistband, and pockets.
  2. Remove length from the rise. I chose to remove 1″ from both the front and back rise. In a jumpsuit, you sometimes need that extra length for ease of movement, etc. Unless you want your pants to be suuuuuper high-waisted, removing a bit of length is a necessity.
  3. Sew pockets and pant legs as directed in pattern.
  4. Assemble waistband and facing and sew waist tie as directed in pattern.
  5. Place your waistband and waistband facing right sides together. Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, sew the top of the waistband and facing together. Turn right side out and press.
  6. Baste the bottom of your waistband pieces together.
  7. Making sure the outside of your waistband (not the facing) is against the right side of your pants, align notches and attach waistband to pants with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Finish raw edge as desired.
  8. Follow pattern instructions for inserting the waistband elastic and hemming.

Not too difficult, right?

Final Thoughts

Since I still haven’t fallen in love with shorts, dresses and lightweight pants are my lifeline in the summer heat. These Frisco Pants in cloud-like voile were a welcome wardrobe addition. In fact, I’ve gotten at least 10-15 wears out of them since making them in July. My favorite way to style them has been the faux jumpsuit look pictured above. A close second would be worn with my Cottesloe Swimsuit for a day spent near the water. As fall approaches, I’m anticipating the olive color to transition well into the season and look forward to playing around with cool weather styling.

The only thing I’d change in another pair would be removing an extra 1/2″ from the front and back rise. This pair sometimes feels a little long in the crotch. Honestly, that’s the only thing I don’t love about these pants. It’s such a small flaw and hasn’t kept me from reaching for my Frisco Pants every time they’re clean. Overall, I’d call them a successful hack.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants Project 2: True Bias Emerson Crop Pants

Hello! Happy Sunday all. How is your fancy pants sewing coming along? Today I’m sharing my second finish for #sewfancypants, a pair of True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. As mentioned in my plans and inspiration post, I didn’t give the Emerson pattern much consideration until Kelli released a high-waisted option last fall. Then, I knew they had to happen. I’ve now sewn all the True Bias pant patterns and feel like I’ve achieved some sort of True Bias Trifecta.


Fabric Choice

I knew back in October that I wanted to make these pants, but choosing the perfect fabric took more time than expected. Initially, I had planned to make a solid colored pair in tencel twill or silk noil. I scoured the internet for fabric that would make my heart sing, but kept coming up empty. Finally, in December, I was browsing ‘tencel’ on StyleMaker Fabrics and came upon this Black and White Grid Plaid Tencel. It was the one and I ordered it immediately. Once it arrived, I loved it even more. Between the gridded lines are tiny stripes that add texture and interest to the fabric when seen up close. I cut out these pants at our January sewing night on Thursday and several of the ladies ‘oohed and ahhed’ over it. It has a decent drape, but enough weight to feel comfortable as a pair of pants. The texture makes it a bit less slippery than a solid tencel so working with it was a dream.

Construction

As mentioned above, I cut this project on Thursday evening. In order to get photographs and have this blog post up today, I had to do all the sewing on Friday evening. I’m actually not a terribly fast seamstress, so finishing a pair of pants in a day seemed daunting. The Emerson Crop Pants are perfect for this kind of sewing. The pleats, pockets, and flat front waistband provide just enough details to keep things interesting, while making the pants an easy sew. I didn’t time myself exactly but, I think the actual sewing took about four hours start to finish. These pants could likely be sewn in less time if made in a solid or print with no need for pattern matching. I took extra care and did my best to line up the grid on side seams, crotch, and inseams. The pockets and front waistband were cut on the bias to eliminate bit of the pattern-matching headache. It’s not perfectly lined up everywhere but; someone would have to get pretty close to notice that, so I’m satisfied with the result.

Fit and Alterations

My body measurements put me at an 8 waist, and right between a 10 and 12 at the hips. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I opted to sew a straight size 10. I chose not to grade down at the waist because I figured simply using a shorter length of elastic at the waist would be an easier solution than starting with an 8 and grading out. The only other modification made was adding 5 inches to the length. I usually add 3-4 inches in length to my other True Bias pants but, added a little more here because I wanted the hem just above my ankle, making the pants wearable year-round. Overall, I’m really pleased with the fit of these pants. I may go back in and remove a bit of length from the elastic, but that’s the only thing I would change.

End Result

After photographing these pants, we had a little family date night and went out to eat. I paired them with booties, my latest Nikko Top, and a cropped black Wiksten Haori. The result was an outfit fancy enough for a night out, but comfortable enough that I could eat all I wanted at dinner without my pants feeling too tight (thank you elastic waistband). After wearing these, I realized that I need more pants like this in my life. Next time I make this pattern, I think I’ll taper the leg and use a linen for an easy pair of summer pants. I plan to wear this pair year round, pairing it with some of my solid colored tees in the warmer months.

Thanks for reading! Don’t forget to follow along with the ladies of Sew Fancy Pants (Katie, Jen, Loni, and me) because we’ve got more fun and inspiration coming your way all month. Head to my Instagram and enter the StyleMaker Fabrics Giveaway, but don’t delay because it ends Tuesday.

Want to see more of what I’ve made using fabrics from StyleMaker? Check out my Gemma Dress, Joy Jacket, or Spring Style Tour posts.

Fan of True Bias Patterns? Check out my Lodo Dress, Lander Pants, Hudson Pants, or Roscoe Blouse.