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Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project: Free Range Slacks and Pipit Loungewear Top

Hello! Today I’m excited to share with you the first two completed items of my Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project. Over the last week I was able to sew up the Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks and Common Stitch Pipit Loungewear Set top in Matinee in Earth. I used 5 yards of the 45″ wide fabric to complete both projects. I’m going to be swanning around in this all summer but, before I do that, let’s get to the details.

Pipit Loungewear Top

The Pipit Loungewear set top has been on my to-sew list for a while. Combined with Warp and Weft fabric, it’s giving off some serious fancy pajama vibes. In this particular time, fancy pajamas are exactly the wardrobe aesthetic to which I’m aspiring.

Sizing and Alterations

Based on the finished garment measurements, I chose to sew a size 6 top. As far as flat pattern alterations, I added 2 and 3/4 inches to the length of both the bodice and sleeve lengths. There aren’t lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern pieces so I just arbitrarily picked a place about 2-3 inches below the armpit to cut a straight line and add the length.

Construction

I somewhat closely followed the pattern instructions and was able to sew this top in about 3.5 hours of total sewing time. It’s a straightforward sew, however I did make some slight changes to fit my personal preferences. First, I topstitched the facing down along the back neckline to keep it from flipping to the outside. Second, I altered the construction of the sleeve cuff. In the pattern it instructs you to press the long ends in by 3/8″ (1cm), sandwich the unsewn sleeve bottom between those edges, and topstitch in place. Then, you attach the sleeve and stitch the underarm seam. I opted for a cleaner finish on the top and used a construction method similar to the cuffs on the Chalk and Notch Fringe. If I would’ve thought ahead, I would’ve snapped pictures as I worked but I’ll do my best to describe it instead. Here’s what I did:

  1. Attach sleeves to top without cuffs. Sew underarm seam.
  2. Press cuff in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Unfold.
  3. Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, stitch short sides of cuff piece together to form a circular piece.
  4. Press one long side of the cuff to the wrong side by 3/8″ (1cm).
  5. Right sides together and using a 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance, stitch the unpressed edge of your cuff to the sleeve edge. Press seam towards cuff.
  6. Fold cuff to the inside of sleeve. Pin your previously pressed edge from step 4 to just barely cover the stitching (from step 5) on the inside of your sleeve.
  7. Stitch in the ditch where sleeve is attached to cuff. Make sure to catch folded edge of cuff in your stitching.

That’s it. Finish pattern steps for attaching buttons and finishing the hem and your top is done. Yay!

Free Range Slacks

These Free Range Slacks marked my second time making this pattern (see my first pair here) and I can’t decide which pair I love more. The weight of this Warp and Weft fabric seems especially suited to this style of pant. In fact, upon finishing these, I nearly abandoned all my other capsule plans to make a pair in every fabric.

Sizing and Alterations

Sizing was easy since I already figured that out on my first pair and went ahead making the same flat pattern alterations which were:  selecting a size 10 then adding 1/2″ to the rise and 1.5″ to the leg length. Due to the narrower width (44″) of this fabric, I did have to make the pants 1/2″ shorter at the hem to accommodate those horizontal stripe side panels.

Construction

Handmade pants are my favorite sewing project and stitching up these was no exception. The simple lines and elastic waist meant I had these sewn up in about 3 hours (which is quite fast for me).

Final Thoughts

I’m just not sure how many more ways I can articulate how much I love this set. Together the Pipit Loungewear Top and Free Range Slacks feel like an outfit right out of an Ace and Jig listing or like something I would wear in the evenings to relax at some swanky resort ( a girl can dream, right?). Separately, each piece makes a statement on its own. The pants are equally cute styled with a basic tee and the top would be a great complement to a simple pair of jeans. You’ll be seeing these around and I can’t wait to pair them with future additions to my Warp and Weft Wardrobe.

Thank you for reading!

P.S. Notice those cute shoes? Can you believe I made them? I mean, I can hardly believe it but if you want to read more, head to this post for the low down.

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Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project

Hello! It’s been a minute since writing here but, it was important for me to take some time over the last month plus to focus on my family as well as dive into anti-racism efforts. As I get back into sewing, I’m planning to take a slower approach that focuses on quality and versatility instead of instant gratification. My wardrobe is approximately 90% handmade. While I can be proud of that, it’s also getting quite full. The Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project will be my ongoing capsule wardrobe project. It was originally planned as a summer project. However, there’s a good chance it will continue into the fall. Enough rambling. Let’s get to the details.

Inspiration

If you’ve been following me for any amount of time, you may remember that I’m a huge fan of Ace and Jig. Last year I made two projects inspired by Ace and Jig. My Zadie Jumpsuit and Madrid Dress quickly became favorites.

Other than their intricate and colorful woven textiles, my favorite thing about the Ace and Jig brand is the way their stylists fearlessly mix patterns and colors. Just take a scroll through the Ace and Jig Instagram to see what I mean. So good, right?

Inspired by the work of Ace and Jig as well as the beautiful Warp and Weft Wovens line by Alexia Marcelle Abegg for Ruby Star Society, I sat down one evening in April and concocted a plan. For a moment my creativity took flight and I messily scribbled my ideas and calculated yardages on a scrap piece of paper (see above). Using five fabrics from the collection, I would create a 9 piece capsule wardrobe that could be mixed and matched to create 20+ outfits. Once the plan was formed, I couldn’t risk my favorite fabrics selling out so I pre-ordered them from Finch Knitting and Sewing Studio as well as Cottoneer.

Here’s the Plan…

Fabric #1

The burnt orange color and alternating checkered stripes of Matinee in Earth had me falling head over heels the moment I saw it. For this print, I’ve planned a tapered leg pair of Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks (with contrasting side stripe like my navy pair made earlier this year) and a Common Stitch Pipit Loungewear Set top.

Fabric #2

Matinee’s woven pattern was compelling enough that I couldn’t stop myself from ordering it in both colorways. Matinee in Dahlia is destined for a short puff sleeve Roscoe Blouse (see Kelli’s hack here) and an In the Folds Peppermint Wrap Skirt.

Fabric #3

From far away, Mountain in Earth reads a little more solid and felt suitable for mixing with every other fabric in the collection. As such, I’ve selected the Ready to Sew Patsy Overalls for this print.

Fabric #4

Stitch in Lilac is the wildcard of the bunch. I felt that the predominately orange colors of the other fabrics would benefit from something different in the mix. This is one idea that I haven’t set in stone yet. However, my tentative plans for this fabric are a Criswood Sews Envelope dress and a Wiksten Shift top.

Fabric #5

Finally, Parade in Lavender is set to become a pair of Anna Allen wide leg Pomona Pants. Similar to the Persephone Pants, the Pomona Pants don’t have an outside leg seam which will make the pattern matching of this design significantly easier on me.

Wrap Up

Truthfully, this whole project is far more planning than I usually do when it comes to my sewing. Often, I fly by the seat of my pants and sew whatever feels right in the moment. Completing the Warp and Weft Wardrobe capsule project will be a true challenge for me. None of the plans are 100% set in stone so I’ll be giving myself freedom to switch up pattern selections as necessary. The goal is to focus on one fabric each week for the rest of the summer. As a final project wrap up, I’ll use the scraps to create a scrappy Wiksten Shift top. Once each fabric has been sewn, I’ll record my thoughts on the completed pieces here on the blog. By September, October, November or, even December (since 2020 is certainly no respecter of plans) I hope to have a full capsule to share with you. Stay tuned!

Thanks for reading!