Sew House Seven Archives - Merritts Makes

July 9, 2020

Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project: Free Range Slacks and Pipit Loungewear Top

Hello! Today I’m excited to share with you the first two completed items of my Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project. Over the last week I was able to sew up the Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks and Common Stitch Pipit Loungewear Set top in Matinee in Earth. I used 5 yards of the 45″ wide fabric to complete both projects. I’m going to be swanning around in this all summer but, before I do that, let’s get to the details.

Pipit Loungewear Top

The Pipit Loungewear set top has been on my to-sew list for a while. Combined with Warp and Weft fabric, it’s giving off some serious fancy pajama vibes. In this particular time, fancy pajamas are exactly the wardrobe aesthetic to which I’m aspiring.

Sizing and Alterations

Based on the finished garment measurements, I chose to sew a size 6 top. As far as flat pattern alterations, I added 2 and 3/4 inches to the length of both the bodice and sleeve lengths. There aren’t lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern pieces so I just arbitrarily picked a place about 2-3 inches below the armpit to cut a straight line and add the length.

Construction

I somewhat closely followed the pattern instructions and was able to sew this top in about 3.5 hours of total sewing time. It’s a straightforward sew, however I did make some slight changes to fit my personal preferences. First, I topstitched the facing down along the back neckline to keep it from flipping to the outside. Second, I altered the construction of the sleeve cuff. In the pattern it instructs you to press the long ends in by 3/8″ (1cm), sandwich the unsewn sleeve bottom between those edges, and topstitch in place. Then, you attach the sleeve and stitch the underarm seam. I opted for a cleaner finish on the top and used a construction method similar to the cuffs on the Chalk and Notch Fringe. If I would’ve thought ahead, I would’ve snapped pictures as I worked but I’ll do my best to describe it instead. Here’s what I did:

Attach sleeves to top without cuffs. Sew underarm seam.
Press cuff in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Unfold.
Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, stitch short sides of cuff piece together to form a circular piece.
Press one long side of the cuff to the wrong side by 3/8″ (1cm).
Right sides together and using a 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance, stitch the unpressed edge of your cuff to the sleeve edge. Press seam towards cuff.
Fold cuff to the inside of sleeve. Pin your previously pressed edge from step 4 to just barely cover the stitching (from step 5) on the inside of your sleeve.
Stitch in the ditch where sleeve is attached to cuff. Make sure to catch folded edge of cuff in your stitching.

That’s it. Finish pattern steps for attaching buttons and finishing the hem and your top is done. Yay!

Free Range Slacks

These Free Range Slacks marked my second time making this pattern (see my first pair here) and I can’t decide which pair I love more. The weight of this Warp and Weft fabric seems especially suited to this style of pant. In fact, upon finishing these, I nearly abandoned all my other capsule plans to make a pair in every fabric.

Sizing and Alterations

Sizing was easy since I already figured that out on my first pair and went ahead making the same flat pattern alterations which were: selecting a size 10 then adding 1/2″ to the rise and 1.5″ to the leg length. Due to the narrower width (44″) of this fabric, I did have to make the pants 1/2″ shorter at the hem to accommodate those horizontal stripe side panels.

Construction

Handmade pants are my favorite sewing project and stitching up these was no exception. The simple lines and elastic waist meant I had these sewn up in about 3 hours (which is quite fast for me).

Final Thoughts

I’m just not sure how many more ways I can articulate how much I love this set. Together the Pipit Loungewear Top and Free Range Slacks feel like an outfit right out of an Ace and Jig listing or like something I would wear in the evenings to relax at some swanky resort ( a girl can dream, right?). Separately, each piece makes a statement on its own. The pants are equally cute styled with a basic tee and the top would be a great complement to a simple pair of jeans. You’ll be seeing these around and I can’t wait to pair them with future additions to my Warp and Weft Wardrobe.

Thank you for reading!

P.S. Notice those cute shoes? Can you believe I made them? I mean, I can hardly believe it but if you want to read more, head to this post for the low down.

February 17, 2020

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Hello! After posting regularly during January, it feels like it’s been a minute. I cut these Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks during the last week of Sew Fancy Pants, sewed them the following week, and finally got them photographed last week. There’s been an ebb and flow to my sewing practice as of late. I’m slowly learning to embrace it. Enough about me: Let’s talk about these pants.

Inspiration

I’ve had these Topshop menswear inspired trousers pinned on my sewing inspiration board for several months now. When it came time for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew this was a look I wanted to recreate.

Fabric

Here’s where I sing the praises of Tammy from D & H Fabrics because she’s a master fabric “sourcerer.” Upon emailing back and forth with Tammy, I sent her the above inspiration photo. Within hours, she’d found this fabric and suggested it. This Tencel Pin Stripe Pique has a beautiful, fluid drape and a subtle pique texture that reminds me of a formal button up shirt. It’s lightweight enough for summer wear, while still keeping my legs decently warm in mild winter weather. If it was terribly cold, I’d probably slip on a pair of leggings underneath.

Sizing and Adjustments

Since these are elastic waist pants, I opted for just a few flat pattern alterations. These pants are a size 10 with 1/2″ added to the rise and 1.5″ added to the leg length. The only adjustment made during construction was slightly tapering the inseam by about 1/8″ near the ankles. This took out a total of 1/4″ from the leg width.

Construction

Construction was done in 30-45 minute sessions over the course of about 5 days. I didn’t keep an accurate count of time but, would estimate the total sewing time to be just over three hours. Instructions were straightforward with no major sewing hiccups throughout the process. It was a truly enjoyable change of pace after sewing two pairs of jeans in row.

Final Thoughts

I fell asleep in these pants the other day which either speaks to their extreme comfort level or my exhaustion level. Let’s go with the comfort narrative because they’re divine.

My biggest qualm with these pants is the waistband. The elastic I used is likely too soft for the weight of a pair of pants and tries to roll despite being stitched in place at the seams. I’m considering going back and zig-zagging through the elastic for more of a shirred waistband look. This would also solve the problem I have of needing to adjust the waistband gathering every time I stand up. If I made this pattern again, my one other adjustment will be to interface the pocket facing. One of my pocket openings got a little stretched out during construction and doesn’t quite lay flat against my body. It’s not terribly noticeable in this fabric, just something I would change for future pairs.

Overall, I’m happy with the final result of these pants and plan to try this pattern again with the small modifications mentioned above. The fabric feels simultaneously casual and luxurious. In fact, I’m contemplating ordering a bit more to make either a matching top or jacket (Maybe the Helen’s Closet Pona Jacket?). Now that I’ve finished this last pair of pants, I think I’ll wait a month or two before sewing another pair, you know, unless some shiny new pattern catches my eye.

Thanks for reading!

September 14, 2018September 14, 2018

Burnside Bibs and My Dream 1970’s Style Outfit

Hello All! Earlier this summer, I moved into a home built in the 1970’s and apparently decided to lean alllll the way in. Kidding, my home was built in the 1970’s but besides a hint of the original wallpaper inside a bathroom cabinet and the original kitchen cabinets, it’s not all that groovy. Honestly though, while I have no desire to have lived in the 1970’s, I have always been a fan of the style. Bold patterns, an array of color, and women wearing pants. What’s not to love? Except maybe an abundance of polyester, of course.

Last Summer, I purchased the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs pattern and found this mystery blend striped knit in a local store for $3/yd. I just didn’t quite know that they were destined to form my dream outfit. The color combination in the knit reminded me of a shirt owned by my mom and made me so happy that I couldn’t leave the store without it. I knew that I wanted to sew up a tee with it, but loved it so much that I was afraid to cut into it. That is, until I came upon the FREE Carine Tee pattern by Elbe Textiles. This fabric and pattern are a match made in apparel sewing heaven

The fabric for my Burnside Bibs is this Lyocell denim purchased from Joann. I bought it on impulse last spring when denim fabrics were on sale for $7.99. To be frank, I had a little bit of trouble working with this fabric. It was likely user error, but this fabric did not want to behave. It was a little shifty and the end result is that one of my front pockets is slightly lower than the other. I didn’t notice my mistake until the last step of sewing and decided that fixing it wasn’t worth having to rip everything apart. This mistake is difficult to notice unless you’re looking for it and hasn’t kept me from loving or wearing them.

The back of these bibs are a favorite detail. I love the gathered, but not too bunched look created by this version. I opted to make version #1 because I felt it would be the most flattering for my shape. I’m pear-shaped and didn’t want to add too much extra bulk around the waist or hip area.

Since finishing my bibs almost a month ago, I’ve worn them a few times and added them to my list of secret pajamas. The lyocell fabric is soft and lightweight while the bibs are fitted enough to look stylish and loose enough for ultimate comfort. Wearing clothes that are secret pajamas feels somewhat like wearing cute, matching underwear. People know you’re wearing clothes, but nobody is privy to the fact that you could just as easily be wearing this outfit lounging in bed or cuddled on the couch. It’s a gooooood feeling.

My only regret is that I didn’t make these when I first bought the pattern in the summer of 2017. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have to practice my lines as I audition to be an extra on the Brady Bunch. Ok, I’m really just scheming up a second more winter friendly pair of Burnside Bibs.

I’ll leave you with a quick note on sizing. My waist and hip measurements put me right at a 10 with my bust measurement right around a 4. Since these are bibs, I decided not to bother with grading between sizes and just cut a straight size 10. I did end up adding 1/2″ to the length on the bib, 1/2″ to the rise, and 1.5″ to the leg length. That’s it. Easy alterations and a great pattern. Have you tried the Burnside bibs yet? If not, what are you waiting for?

Want more overall sewing inspiration? Check out my Named Ronja Dungarees. Can’t get enough Sew House Seven Patterns? Check out my Tea House Dress or Toaster Sweater. Do you love 70’s style too? Look up my denim Lander Pants.

February 7, 2017

Toaster Sweater #1

November and December were hectic months in the Merritts household. My husband and I both had exciting interviews, he graduated college and started his career, my baby sister got married, and I finished up a decent amount of commission sewing work. I got far too little sleep and most of those months are a bit of a blur, but I’m proud of what we were able to accomplish and the lessons we learned in those challenging months. During especially busy weeks/months, I find that my sanity is restored with a bit of “just for fun” sewing. This Toaster Sweater #1 by Sew House Seven was one of my sanity saver projects in December.

One morning I had just dropped off the last of my commission quilts at the quilter and was waiting for fabric to arrive for my next assignment. My husband and I were going on our first date in months that evening and I wanted something new to wear. I remembered that I had already traced and cut the pieces for a Toaster Sweater and assembly was the last step. Sewing it together took me about two hours including the time taken to feed my 3 year old and assist with potty breaks. The assembly could probably be finished in about an hour with no distractions.

The fabric I used for my sweater is an organic cotton fleece made by Birch Fabrics. It feels even cozier than my favorite over sized sweatshirt, but looks a bit more stylish. After completion, I tried on my Toaster Sweater and basically didn’t take it off for the next three days. It kept me warm in my freezing apartment, cozy while waiting for a train in a snowstorm, generally feeling much less sloppy when running errands. I honestly just feel like I need to make several more of the exact same sweater so that I can use it as my winter uniform. I always struggle with feeling stylish in winter because I only want to wear cozy sweats and my husband’s sweatshirts in the freezing weather. A Toaster Sweater uniform just may be the solution to my dilemma. Does anyone else find themselves wearing a “winter uniform?”

Just a couple quick notes on sizing and alterations:

-I sewed up a size small and added 3 inches to the bodice length. When making this again, I would probably add another inch to the bodice to make a total of 4 inches added. The current length is great with my high waist jeans, but just a bit short for my lower rise jeans.

– I added 1.5 inches to the sleeve length and am very happy with the finished length because I like my sleeves extra long.