True Bias Archives - Merritts Makes

July 29, 2019July 29, 2019

True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper

Hello! Today’s post has been months in the making and I couldn’t be more excited to finally share. I was fortunate enough to be a tester for the True Bias Shelby Dress/Romper. For obvious reasons, I chose to sew the romper view. This romper was sewn way back in February, hung in my closet waiting for a final hem until May , and was finally photographed at the beginning of this month. Was it worth the wait? To me, absolutely! Let’s get to the details.

Fabric

I purchased this teal sand washed rayon from Raspberry Creek Fabrics over a year ago, intending to use it for another project. Instead it turned out to be the perfect fabric for a Shelby. It’s soft, lightweight, and has a price that can’t be beat (especially when a project requires several yards).

Sizing and Alterations

(please note: This was my tester version so some aspects of the final pattern have been changed)

I’ve used several True Bias patterns and generally found Kelli’s measurement charts to be accurate so I chose my sizing based on the chart. For this version I used a 4 at the bust, graded to an 8 at the waist, and a 10 at the hips. I added 1″ to the bodice length (which I don’t actually think was necessary here) and 2″ to the length of the legs. Next time (which I’m planning on), I will address the tightness in the arms which is likely due to my need for a full bicep adjustment and not a pattern issue. This particular fabric is actually quite forgiving so the sleeves are still plenty comfortable as-is despite looking quite tight.

My one other alteration was adding inseam pockets. I drew my own pockets and accidentally made them a bit small for my liking. Next time I’ll make them bigger and place them about 2 inches higher. They add some bulk at the hips, which is likely why pockets aren’t included in the pattern. If you’re a pocket lover, don’t let that deter you from the pattern as adding inseam pockets is a simple alteration with plenty of great resources available to walk you through the process.

Construction

I think it’s been mentioned in previous posts but, I’m not actually a quick sewer. Although my efficiency has improved over the years, there are just some things that can’t be rushed. Assembling the pattern took a good 45 minutes, cutting it took about 1 hour, and sewing took approximately 6 hours. The most difficult part of construction was attaching the facing without stretching the neckline or center front pieces. As long as you’re not using a terribly difficult fabric; it’s a feat that’s mildly simple to achieve. With that, I would recommend this pattern to an advanced beginner or intermediate sewist.

Final Thoughts

Why has a pattern like this just now entered my life? This Shelby Romper combines the breezy feel and feminine style of a dress with the practicality of pants. I wore it to church a couple weeks ago and have never felt more comfortable while teaching a class of three year olds. This was perfect for keeping me covered while allowing for the movement and fun that comes with entertaining young children. Mothers of my class gave compliments on the style and practical use of such a garment. It’s gold, I tell you, pure gold.

Wearing and writing about my Shelby has me daydreaming of my next version. I’m thinking knee length with some sort of hacked long sleeve. Paired with booties and possibly tights it would be a 90’s dream come true. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m off to source the perfect fabric…

Thanks for reading!

November 21, 2018November 21, 2018

True Bias Salida Skirt

Hello! Today I’m thankful that I can finally show you my test version of the newest True Bias pattern, the Salida Skirt. The hardest part about pattern testing is always waiting to share my finished make. This skirt is no exception. The Salida includes two views. View A is fitted to the knee and View B is fitted through the hips and mid-calf length. During the test, I made View A, but have been dreaming of View B ever since.

If you’ve read my Justine skirt post, you may remember that I actually don’t own or wear many skirts. When I found out Kelli’s newest pattern would be a skirt, I was initially hesitant. I did, however, decide to take a leap of faith and I’m exceptionally glad I did. The line drawings really sold me on this pattern. It’s hard to photograph and see in black, but the style lines on this pattern are ace. The front and back both include a v-shaped yoke with center and side panels. Coupled those with slash pockets that are a surprisingly decent size and you’ve got a winning combination.

Let’s take a quick minute to talk about this fabric. I used a Black Micro Wale Corduroy from Style Maker Fabrics. When I purchased this fabric last January, I planned to use it for a Lander Pant overall hack that never came to fruition. I cut everything out and then lost steam. Thankfully, the paneling of this skirt makes it easy to cut out of scraps and odd shaped pieces of fabric. It feels fitting that although this corduroy didn’t become a pair of Lander Pants, it found a way to become another True Bias pattern. The softness and structure of the corduroy turned out to be just what this skirt needs. In fact, I think Kelli used the same fabric in a different color for one of the pattern cover samples.

Over the last few years, I’ve grown to love top stitching seams which made sewing this skirt all the more enjoyable. The panels and yoke seams are all top stitched; a detail I wish showed up better in this version. Despite the decent amount of top stitching, the Salida came together rather quickly. I sewed it up over the course of 2 or 3 evenings without having to pull any crazy late nights. The zipper insertion is the only area where I made a mistake (zip fly is on the wrong side), but even that wasn’t noticeable or really simple to change so I decided to call it a “design choice.”

Let’s move on to discussing fit. My waist and hip measurements put me right in between a size 10 and 12 on the size chart. Based on this, I made the decision to cut a size 12 and adjust from there. After basting the front and back skirt pieces together, I ended up removing about 3/8″ from each of the outer side seams. This is an adjustment likely due to the fact that I was between sizes, not an issue with the pattern sizing. The only other adjustment I made was to add 3″ to the length above where the back slit begins. In retrospect, I probably only needed to add 2″, I was just nervous about the slit beginning right below my bottom (perils of sewing tall). With those simple adjustments, the fit is pretty close to perfect.

After not wearing them for so long, I’m still getting used to styling a skirt. Luckily I think I found the perfect formula in pairing this corduroy Salida Skirt with a favorite striped Lark Tee, the ever-versatile Hampton Jean Jacket , and a pair of booties. Now I just need to find a good pair of tights and I’ll be set for the cold months ahead. Wearing my skirt styled this way gives me hope that I may once again add skirts to my regular wardrobe rotation.

Thanks for reading!

Want to see more of my True Bias Patterns makes? Check out my Lander Pant, Roscoe Blouse, or Yari Jumpsuit posts.

May 29, 2018October 6, 2018

Yari Jumpsuit by True Bias

I’ve long been an admirer of jumpsuits, overalls, and basically any type of one-piece outfit. Thanks to my height of 5’10”, I’ve never actually been able to wear ready-to-wear jumpsuits without discomfort. Last year I made my first jumpsuit and fell in love (see it here), so I was all in when Kelli of True Bias asked me to test the Yari Jumpsuit (purchase pattern here). The pattern includes both a shorts and full-length option as well as sleeved and sleeveless options. There is also an option to add a D-ring cinch at the sides for more waist definition.

After seeing Kelli’s samples and the line drawings for the Yari, I had a vision of a woven striped jumpsuit inspired by Ace and Jig. Luckily, Indiesew had the perfect fabric (teal is sold-out, but orange is still available here). I LOVE the metallic thread woven throughout the fabric because it kind of makes wearing this jumpsuit feel like magic.

I couldn’t use a beautiful fabric and not use equally magnificent buttons so I turned to my Arrow Mountain stash. I used these mirror buttons to add even more sparkle because this look clearly isn’t bold enough on its own. I’ve been ordering buttons from Arrow Mountain since the summer of 2016 and I don’t plan on stopping soon. In fact, my stash is nearly depleted so I’m filling up my Etsy cart as we speak (did you see the gold mirror buttons? I NEED them).

I found construction of the Yari to be straightforward and enjoyable. In fact, the actual construction of the jumpsuit took me several hours over the course of one evening. This fabric doesn’t allow for them to be very visible, but the princess seam lines in this jumpsuit are everything! They also allow for a bit more shaping if necessary.

Let’s talk sizing and alterations for a quick minute. I’m a definite pear shape with a small chest and hips that don’t lie. My small chest and wider hips put me in a size 4 bust with a 10 at the hips. This woven cotton doesn’t have much drape, so I took in the bust and waist by a total of 1 inch (.5 inches on each side) for a bit of a closer fit. If I had added the optional D-rings, I likely wouldn’t have needed to do this as those would’ve given that shaping. I found the sizing at the hips to be spot on, but my legs are a size or two smaller than my hips. For this reason, starting at the bottom of the pockets, I took about 1 inch out of each leg. I removed .5 inches from the leg outer seams and the inseam.

The last alteration I made was to add length. I added 1.5 inches to the bodice length and 2.5 inches to the leg length. The length added to the bodice was a bit too much as I probably should’ve only added .5 inches to the bodice length and instead added that extra 1 inch to the leg length for a total of 3.5 inches to the legs. As a result, the crotch sits a little lower than I’d like. This is really due to my lack of muslin vs. the actual pattern. Maybe next time I’ll learn my lesson and make a muslin…maybe.

Despite my unintended dropped crotch, I plan to wear the heck out of this jumpsuit over the summer. This fabric is lightweight and breathable enough that it should take me seamlessly from lounging around the house to a day spent at the amusement park. True Bias Patterns have a way of making me feel a little bit more cool and hip than I really am, and the Yari is no exception. I’m now on the hunt for a black tencel twill for my next version. If you find any good sources, please send them my way.

November 20, 2017August 29, 2018

True Bias Roscoe Blouse

Hello and Happy Monday! My family and I took a mini vacation this weekend and decided to escape to the cabin owned by my husband’s grandparents. I used our weekend plans as motivation to finally finish sewing my True Bias Roscoe Blouse (purchase here). This Mountain Mirror rayon by April Rhodes (purchased from Imagine Gnats) was basically begging to be photographed in front of the mountains. Perhaps I just couldn’t resist the opportunity to photograph a mountain print top in front of all this beautiful scenery.

We love spending weekends at the cabin because it always gives us time to reconnect as a family. There’s no internet and minimal to no cell service depending on where you stand on the property. We always come back home feeling refreshed and happy to have a break from our work and devices. Our four year old loves exploring and fighting imaginary monsters so that’s pretty much the only item on the itinerary when we visit. This last weekend we were greeted by snow covered mountains and frost dusting the ground. Once we got a fire started, we played my son’s version of Monopoly and cuddled while watching Spongebob. Not a bad evening if you ask me.

We woke up the next morning, got ready for the day, and headed outside to snap these photos. As evidenced by the snow and frost on the ground, it was freezing outside. My son was bundled in his winter coat and having the time of his life chasing monsters. My husband and I, on the other hand, didn’t pack the appropriate outerwear and were a bit cold. If you look closely at the photos you may see my fingers turning red from the cold and goosebumps on my arms and neck. I did bring this rtw cardigan along and it made finishing this 15 minute photo session a lot more cozy. I love having items like this Roscoe Blouse in my wardrobe that are easily made cold-weather appropriate with the addition of a cozy cardigan or stylish jacket.

While layering over the Roscoe to make it more winter appropriate was rather easy, I may have had more time to wear this sans layers had I finished it back when I originally started. I purchased this fabric and pattern sometime around the end of August as I intended to finish it before my early September trip to Colorado. Clearly, that did not happen. I had just started to sew my blouse and was on step 2 of the pattern when I made a HUGE mistake. I had attached the neckline facing and was cutting the neck slit. Feeling pretty accomplished, I lifted the fabric to realize that I had unwittingly cut a large hole into the middle of my blouse front. I pulled out my extra fabric and found that it was about 3 inches too short to cut a new front. I was frustrated to realize that I would need to purchase another yard to finish the blouse. I set the fabric and pattern aside and decided to revisit it at a later date.

When I returned from Colorado, I hit the ground running and finished my Highlands Wrap Dress (here), Hampton Jean Jacket (here), and family Halloween costumes (here). I had all but forgotten about my Roscoe Blouse fail until a few weeks ago when Imagine Gnats announced a great sale on their rayons. I searched through their sale section and found this Mountain Mirror rayon which reminded me of my unfinished project. I quickly ordered a yard and waited for it to arrive.

I almost immediately cut out a new blouse front and waited for an opportunity to sew it up. This time I paid careful attention when cutting the neck slit and avoided my earlier mistake. I sewed this up in a time frame of about 3 days. I didn’t keep track of my actual sewing time, but I would estimate this took me somewhere around 3 hours total. It was a quick, easy sew and I love its relaxed, flowy fit. The voluminous raglan sleeves are one of my favorite design features and will make it perfectly breezy for eventual summer wear.

I’ll leave you with a quick note on sizing. I sewed up a size 4 with the only alte,ration being 1″ added to the sleeve length and blouse length. I’ve sewn several True Bias patterns over the last year ( Lodo Dress, Hudson Pants, and Lander Pants) and have found the sizing on each pattern to be accurate according the measurements included. I’ve only made minimal length alterations to each and would highly recommend Kelly’s patterns.

Thanks so much for reading!

November 1, 2017August 29, 2018

Matching Loungewear: Brilliant Idea or Fashion Blunder?

Way back in August, my son decided that he wanted to be Spongebob for Halloween and requested that I dress up as Squidward. Part of me was rather proud as I was a Spongebob fan back in the day. In the sixth grade I even got a Spongebob alarm clock for Christmas (It sang the “F.U.N.” song to wake me up and was a real treasure. I’m sure my parents were delighted when it finally broke). I had spent a few weeks puzzling on how to execute my Squidward costume until I was in Denver and Emily made this Blueprints for Sewing Geodesic Sweatshirt. The wheels in my head started turning and I came up with the idea of a matching mint colored loungewear set.

Emily’s lovely mauve french terry inspired me to check the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Etsy shop where I found this solid dark mint french terry. I knew that I would use the Geodesic pattern because I already owned it and had been planning to make the longer version eventually (see my cropped version here). I decided to purchase the True Bias Hudson Pants pattern (here) and the two together make a perfect pair.

I sewed up a size C/D with no alterations in the Geodesic and it all came together rather quickly. My background in quilting is what drew me to the fun geometric lines of the Geodesic and I think it made the construction a little easier as well.

When cutting and sewing the Hudsons, I made a size 10 with the only alteration being an added 4″ in length. I only needed to add 3″ to the length, but I prefer my sweats a little extra long. It probably has something to do with the fact that nearly all rtw sweats are a few inches too short for my legs. Perhaps I’m just making up for years of wearing sweats that look like I’m expecting a flood.

While I’m satisfied with both pieces individually, I’m still not sure that I’m sold on wearing them together. They kind of remind me of the blush velour sweatsuit I owned in middle school and I’m still trying to decide whether or not that’s a good thing. The comfort level of this outfit is unreal. I have been wearing it around the house all day today. I guess the point of loungewear is actual lounging though, so I will certainly wear these together during those times. My biggest question is whether or not I would wear matching loungewear out and about during everyday activities. How do you feel about matching loungewear? Is it something you would wear? How and where would you wear it?

Thanks for reading! I’ll leave you with a quick iPhone shot of our Halloween costumes so you can see how I incorporated these matching separates into my Squidward costume.

September 18, 2017

True Bias Lander Pants

Today I’m thrilled to show you my True Bias Lander Pants. I was lucky enough to be one of Kelli’s testers for this pattern and couldn’t be happier with my result. These are certainly not my first pair of pants, but there’s just something about the detailing and fit that makes me feel like my sewing skills are suddenly legit. The pants feature a wide leg, button fly, front rectangular patch pockets, and a flattering high waist. There are also three length options: short, ankle, and boot length. If you haven’t already seen them, check out the pattern listing here to see Kelli’s amazing samples and how great they look on her gorgeous silver-haired model.
Nicole_08

I opted to make the boot length option as I plan to wear these regularly throughout the fall and winter months. Wide leg pants have been appealing to me for years, but because of my waist to hip ratio and longer legs, nice fitting ones are nearly impossible to buy off the rack. When Kelli told me she was making a pattern for wide leg pants, I jumped at the chance to test them.

Nicole_02

Nicole_13

This denim pair is actually my second pair of Lander Pants. During the testing phase I made an ankle length pair using Essex Linen. The denim is a Robert Kaufman denim purchased from Imagine Gnats (find it here). The fabric is a really nice medium weight and rather comfortable as well. I wore these pants on the plane to Denver last week (more about that trip here). My plane flew out of SLC at 7:30 am so I was nervous to see how my pants would look by the end of the day. Surprisingly, they still looked great by dinner time with only minimal wrinkling from an entire day of wear.

Nicole_04

One of the details I love about these pants is the size of the pockets on both front and back. They’re a great design feature, but it’s their practicality that really wins my heart. One of THE worst parts of many ready to wear women’s pants are the size of the pockets. Does anyone else hate when they’re so small you can’t even fit your phone inside? I mean, what are they? Pockets for ants? I don’t even have a giant phone and I regularly have this problem when shopping for pants. Not planning on having that problem again, because I’m just going to make an array of Lander Pants for all occasions.

Nicole_17

Nicole_20

I could write a few hundred more words proclaiming my love for these pants, but I’ll let the photos and the fact that I’ve been wearing them multiple times a week speak for themselves. Kelli is hosting a Lander Pant Sewalong on her blog this week. It’s sure to be filled with lots of helpful hints if you’d like some extra wisdom while making a pair. Check out her first post here.

Thanks for reading! Want to see what else I’ve made using True Bias patterns? Check out my red Lodo Dress in this post.

Photos by my lovely friend Rachel of Little Fish.

If you’ve made it this far I’ll leave you with the gem of a picture below. This is what I look like when I’m afraid that I’ll be hit by a car while “acting natural” and crossing the street. Clearly crossing the street photos will never be one of my signature poses.

Nicole_06