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Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Jeans Comparison with Ginger, Dawn, Philippa, and Morgan

The end of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is nigh. While I haven’t felt quite as productive as last year, I’m still proud of what I was able to accomplish. My last two completed #sewfancypants2020 projects were a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans and a pair of caramel colored Dawn Jeans. After finishing them, I thought it might be helpful to post a comparison of the four different jeans patterns I’ve sewn. Alright here we go, a brief comparison between the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans, Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants, and Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans.

Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Fitting Adjustments

As far as sizing goes, each pair was made based on the pattern maker’s size chart. They’re all somewhere around a size 12. I used mostly the same flat pattern adjustments for each of these patterns but, I’ll detail them a bit here:

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to front and back rise. Added 2″ of total length to the legs (1″ above knees and 1″ below).
  2. To fix the gaping at the center back, I took out a small wedge at the center back of the yoke. I drew a line that started 1/2″ away from the top of the center back and angled to the bottom of the center back yoke. I trimmed the yoke pieces along this line and then sewed everything according to the pattern instructions. FYI: this is definitely not the proper or recommended method, just what worked for me personally.

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

  1. 3/4″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Used the longer length inseam option
Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Back darts extended by 1/2″
  3. 2″ added to leg length
  4. Legs slimmed about 1/2″ total (extra 1/4″ on each side)

Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. 1″ added to leg length.
  3. Removed an extra 1/4″ from the top of the center back seam allowance and angled back to the regular seam allowance just below the back yoke.

Philippa Pants vs. Dawn Jeans

The Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans (view A) are both slightly tapered high rise pants designed for non-stretch fabrics. They’ve got different details but, produce a similar result. For me personally, I found the fit pretty comparable. The details I love about the Philippa Pants are: the generous square back pockets, flat front with no front pockets, and a deep 2″ hem at the bottom. My favorite details about the Dawn Jeans are the traditional jeans details such as the front pockets, coin pocket, and back yoke.

Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans

Ginger Jeans vs. Morgan Jeans

While these two patterns are designed from a slightly different block, I decided to compare them since they’re both from Closet Case Patterns. The Ginger Jeans are designed for stretch denim while the Morgan Jeans are designed for non-stretch denim. The high rise skinny fit of the Ginger Jeans feel a bit more dressed up than the mid rise relaxed fit of the Morgan Jeans. During the winter, Ginger Jeans are my go-to with sweaters and boots while the Morgan Jeans were worn weekly during the summer months.

Ginger Jeans and Morgan Jeans

Final Thoughts

I’ll be honest in saying that it’s difficult for me to pick a favorite between these four jeans as it seems to change weekly. Lately, I’ve been wearing the Philippa Pants on repeat but, have a feeling the Dawn Jeans just might be the next favorite. All four pattern designers provide thorough instructions with the Anna Allen zipper instructions using my favorite zip fly method (the Dawn jeans method is similar). Finding the words for this comparison was a struggle for me so, I decided to focus more on the photos to do the talking. Hoping the photos provide some valuable insight into the basic differences between each pair of jeans. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any specific questions about any of these jeans.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020 Week 3: Fitting Tips and Tricks Round Up

Fitting…Ahhhhhhh!!!!!!! Does your mind fill with terror at the thought of fitting pants? Does the mention of fit induce panic? Never fear! The fitting fairy is here. Kidding. I’m no fitting expert and won’t proclaim to be one. However, I am here to link you up to some and reassure you that fitting doesn’t have to be scary. In fact, it can be fun and quite informative. Still, frustrations will likely occur.

Here’s the truth. I’ve sewn somewhere around 30 pairs of pants for myself. Around 20 of them were sewn when I hit my pants making stride within the last two years. Even after sewing all of those pants, I can’t proclaim that I’ve ever achieved what one would call a “perfect” fit. Have I achieved a fit that felt close? Sure. I’m of the “done is better than perfect” mindset when it comes to sewing and; fitting is no different. When you spend too much time fitting, you run the risk of overfitting. Some wrinkles are ok and necessary (Anna Allen communicates these thoughts well in this IG post).

In my opinion, the most important questions one should ask when making and fitting pants are:

1. Are these pants comfortable? Can I complete daily tasks while wearing them?

2. How do I feel in these pants? Do they make me want to hide or do I want to show them to the world?

As an aside here: If you initially have negative or neutral feelings about the fit of your pants, it’s sometimes a good idea to set them aside and come back to them a few days or weeks later. Wear them around the house, give them a shot. If they’re still not for you at that point, it’s ok to let them go.

Alright, hopping off of my soapbox now. Let’s get to those resources.

Taking Measurements

Having accurate measurements is the essential first step to getting a good fit. Back in my college sewing class, we took measurements by donning a nylon suit, grabbing a partner, and measuring each other behind a privacy screen. Now, I take my measurements on my own a couple of times per year. If you’re want to make sure you’re taking accurate measurements, I’d suggest checking out this How to Measure Your Body post from Gabby’s Fitting Series on the Sewcialists blog. Seriously, check out all of Gabby’s posts on fitting. They’re excellent.

If you’re looking at an alternate way to get some insight into your personal fitting details, Naomi of HandmadePhD has a great post titled: Quick Sloper using Duct Tape. She is serious about fit, and her knowledge and dedication always inspires me.

Making a Muslin

I’ll be the first to admit that I rarely make muslins. They’re a valuable tool and SO helpful. I’m just not great at forcing myself to make them. I do, however, make muslins when sewing for other people or pattern testing. I’ve also been known to make them when my final project uses precious fabric. The ladies of Sew Altered Style have made a great case for sewing a muslin in their post, The Ultimate Guide to Making Muslins. It’s important, so, “Do as I say, not as I do?”

Even after you’ve worked out issues in a muslin, make sure to do a baste fitting with your final fabric since different contents and weaves will behave differently.

Common Fitting Adjustments

While I have yet to try it myself, the book Pants for Real People comes highly recommended from many pant sewists. I currently have it on hold at my local library and will report back after checking it out. Since it’s out of print, your local library or purchasing the kindle e-book version (here) are probably your best bet.

Many pattern companies have support for fitting their specific pant patterns via sewalongs and blog posts. A quick google search will often bring up others who’ve made a pattern and provided insights. I’ve found them to be quite helpful even when not using those specific patterns. Here’s a list of some of my most visited fitting posts:

Closet Case Patterns Jean Fitting Adjustments for Your Best Fitting Jeans

Closet Case Patterns Pants Fitting Adjustments: Best Tips for Pants Fitting the Sasha Trousers

Itch to Stitch Liana Jeans Sewalong

Chalk & Notch Crew Fitting & Custom Adjustments

Melly Sews A Guide To Pants Fitting Problems – Sew Pants That Fit You

Final Fitting Thoughts/Advice

You’ve got this! I believe in you! The best piece of advice I can give you is to pick one or two things that are most important in your personal pants fit (comfort, non-gaping waistband, roomy calves, etc.). Once you’ve determined those things, focus on one at a time. There’s a learning curve (perhaps, curves?) to fit so don’t expect perfection on your first try. Trial and error is often the best way to learn these things. Give yourself some grace and pat yourself on the back for making the effort. Need more help? Reach out to the sewing community in a Facebook group or using the #sewingsos on Instagram. Often pattern makers are happy to help fit their patterns as well. Wishing you luck in your pants fitting endeavors!

Don’t want to spend too much time fitting? Check out this great round up of Easy to Fit Pants by Sew Altered Style.

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Personal Sewing Plans

Hello! What a wonderful, busy week it’s been. Today I’m sharing one last pattern post as part of Sew Fancy Pants 2020. This post is all about my personal sewing plans for the month. As you read, please keep in mind that I’ve been planning and prepping these projects for months. You do not need to make more than one project to take part in Sew Fancy Pants, in fact, you only need to try and show progress. Post your progress and projects on Instagram using the #sewfancypants2020 and we’ll all celebrate your accomplishments together. Now, here’s what I have planned for the month.

Project 1: Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers

I know, I’ve already shared a post about these pants (original post here) but, I love them so much that they’re worth mentioning. With my son still out of school for the holiday break, I knew sewing time would be short. I needed a quick, easy, win. Knit pants like the Joan Trousers are a great option when you don’t want to fuss too much with fitting details or fancy finishes. If you’re looking for a quick project during the month, the True Bias Hudson Pants and Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings are also good options.

Project 2: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

Since making my first pair of Ginger Jeans in January 2018 (read about my other Ginger Jeans here, here and here) I’ve wanted a true black pair. During Black Friday sales, I purchased a few yards of true black denim from Threadbare Fabrics. A black pair of skinny jeans feels classic. I have a feeling that I’ll continue wearing them long after skinny jeans have gone out of style.

Project 3: Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

Inspired by the (this specific pair) Jesse Kamm Ranger Pant, the Dawn Jeans are a project I’ve wanted to try since last year’s Sew Fancy Pants. I’ll be using light brown cotton twill left over from my most worn pair of Persephone Pants (here) that should work a treat. Hoping they’ll become a fast favorite. This will be the first new-to-me pant pattern of the month, so be prepared for some detailed fitting stories and a Philipa Pant vs. Dawn Jeans comparison coming during week 3.

Project 4: Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Easy to wear woven pants with an elastic waist became wardrobe staples last year. The Free Range Slacks have a side panel detail that closely matches this Pinterest inspiration. I’ll be using a stripe from D & H Fabrics. Looking forward to making this happen at the end of the month.

Project 5 (Stretch Goal): Misusu Patterns Alex Jogger Pants

My son is in desperate need of new sweatpants after growing out of his favorite pairs of True Bias Hudson Pants. If time permits, I’m planning to sew some Misusu Patterns Alex Pants and use scraps to color block a few pairs.

There you have it. I have lofty goals for the month and I’m crossing my fingers that they’ll all come to fruition. Regardless of how the projects go, I’ll share progress here and on Instagram so, stay tuned!

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020 Week 1: New Pant Pattern Round Up

Week one of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is off to a rousing start! Yesterday I shared my first project, a pair of Joan Trousers (see post here), tomorrow I’ll be sharing my personal sewing plans for the month, and today, I’ve got a round up of new (within the last year) pant/trouser patterns. Since last year’s posts included a lot of patterns, I thought that I’d focus on new patterns for this year. Before we get going, here are some links to last years posts including more pattern and fabric inspiration.

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Beginner Edition

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Intermediate/Advanced Trouser Edition

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Jeans Edition

Traditional Trousers/Pants

Chalk and Notch Crew Shorts and Trousers: The Crew Trousers include a pleated front, tapered legs, side zip, and tie belt. With thorough instructions, they’re a great place for an advanced beginner to start. Size Range waist: 25-43″ (63.5-109 cm) hip: 35-53″ (89-135 cm)

By Hand London Jackie Trousers: The pleated front, fly zip, and slightly tapered leg are a nod to menswear that I can get behind. Size Range (note: the measurements for this pattern are the finished measurements)- waist: 29-47.75″ (73.5-121 cm) hip: 45.25-63.5″ (115.5-161.5 cm)

Opian Vaulion Trousers: These beauties feature center leg seams on front and back with diagonal pockets that add interest. Size Range waist: 22- 37.75″ (56-96 cm) hip: 32.25-48″ (82-122 cm)

Casual Elastic Waist Trousers/Pants

Muna and Broad Glebe Pants: With a fantastic plus-size size range, the Glebe Pants are a welcome new addition to the sewing community. They include wide legs and options for a flat front or fully elasticated waist. Size Range waist: 40-60″ (101.5-152cm) hip: 46.5-71.5″ (118-181.5 cm)

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks: These slacks include options for a straight, cropped leg or a tapered leg. The side panels are my favorite detail and add great opportunity for color blocking or playing with stripes. Size Range waist: 23.5-39.5″ (60-100 cm) hip: 34-50″ (86-127 cm)

Made by Rae Rose: This much anticipated pattern includes a high rise, wide leg, flat, pleated front, and three lengths: shorts, crop, and long. Size Range waist: 26.5-51″ (67-130 cm) hip: 34.5-59″ (88-150 cm)

Paper Theory Miller Trouser: These trousers include the option for either an elasticated or tie waist. Other features are back darts and tapered legs. Size Range waist: 24-47.5″ (61-121 cm) hip: 34-57.5″ (86-146 cm)

Closet Case Patterns Pietra Shorts and Pants: With paneled fronts, angled pockets, and options for a wide or tapered leg, it’s easy to see why this pattern has been seen all over the sewing community. Size Range waist: 24-39″ (61-99 cm) hip: 33-48″ (84-122 cm)

Pants with Extra Fancy Details

Digital Pattern Library Empire Trousers: These trousers feature a wide leg, pleated front, and unique stepped waistband. Ties around the legs are an optional feature. Size Range waist: 24-44.75″ (61-114 cm) hip: 33-54″ (84-137 cm)

In the Folds Darlow Pants: The abundance of style lines and curved seams make these pants a blank canvas for all things fancy. Adding details such as piping, color blocking, or contrast topstitching would easily highlight the distinctive design. Size Range waist: 24-45.625″ (61-116 cm) hip: 33-54.75″ (84-139 cm)

Pants with a Vintage Vibe

Anna Allen Philippa Pants: My Philippa Pants (post here) have become my go-to pants. The simple pocket-free front, high waist and tapered legs make me feel like a million bucks. Size Range waist: 24-41″ (61-104 cm) hip: 34-51″ (86-129.5 cm)

Tilly and the Buttons Jessa Trousers: With flared legs, patch pockets, and a high waist, the 1970’s vibes are strong with these ones. Size Range waist: 24-38″ (61-96.5 cm) hip: 33-47″ (84-119.5 cm)

Itch to Stitch Gobi Culottes: Ten years ago, I owned a ready-to-wear pair of pants very similar to the Gobi Culottes. The 1980’s vibes set them apart from many currently available pant patterns. Size Range waist: 24.38-40.5″ (64.5-103 cm) hip: 33.25-48″ (84.5-122 cm)

Pants that are a Little More than Pants

Helen’s Closet Yanta Overalls: A relaxed, modern twist on overalls, I’ve been dreaming of making a pair since their release. Size Range waist: 24-48″ (61-122 cm) hip: 33-58″ (84-147.5 cm)

CocoWawa Raspberry Jumpsuit: Including several strap options, and bodice shirring, the Raspberry jumpsuit is a perfect option for those doing a bit of summer sewing. Size Range waist: 23-41″ (59-104 cm) hip: 31-49″ (80-125 cm)

Assembly Line V-Neck Jumpsuit: This one may be a little harder to acquire as it’s only available in printed form at the moment. However, the uncomplicated minimalist look has me searching for US stockists and pulling out the tracing tools. Size Range waist: 25-44″ (64-112 cm) hip: 35.75-52.75″ (91-134 cm)

There you have it. Just a sampling of this last year’s newly released pant patterns. Do you have a favorite? Is there one you love that I’ve missed?

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Joan Trousers with Bonus Sheridan Sweater

Hello! Wishing you all a happy new year! Yesterday, in an ostentatious end to 2019, I finished my first Sew Fancy Pants project: A pair of polka dotted Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with accompanying Hey June Sheridan Sweater. Now I’m wondering how I’ve lived my life without a matching set such as this one. Read on for all the details.

Fabric

I’ve had my eye on this Double Face Sweater Knit from La Mercerie since Adrianna of Hey June used it for her Evans Blazer sample. I promised myself that if La Mercerie had a Black Friday sale and this was still available then, I could buy it. Thankfully, the fabric gods were on my side and I was able to purchase 3.5 yards.

What’s that? Oh, you noticed those matching earrings? Why, yes. I did make them specifically to match this outfit.

Sheridan Sweater

Adrianna’s Polka Dot Sheridan Sweater (sample in listing photos) was actually the catalyst behind this entire outfit. Upon seeing it, I was smitten with the bell sleeves and couldn’t get the idea of a matching sweater set out of my head. The shape of the sweater combined with this polka dot fabric feels a little bit 1960’s mod and I am here for it.

This Sheridan is view B with bell sleeves. Size is a 6 graded to a 10 at the hips with 1″ of length added to the bodice and sleeves.

Sewing the Sheridan took about two hours including the time it took me to sit down and eat breakfast with my son. Really, it was that easy. Now I need to hurry up and order more of this fabric to make a Sheridan Dress.

Joan Trousers

Friday Pattern Company describes the Joan Trousers as “treggings” (trouser/leggings). It’s an accurate description of a clothing item I didn’t know I needed in my life. They combine the comfort of pajama pants with the look of tailored trousers (pockets! belt loops! faux button front waistband!) Sure, they look more casual in this particular fabric but, in a nice solid ponte or double knit, they’d be office ready in no time.

This time around I used all the same adjustments made to my first pair. Sewed a size large with 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, and 3″ added to the length (Just FYI: since this pattern doesn’t include a lengthen shorten line at the rise, I simply added the 1/2″ to the top of the front and back pieces as well as the pocket and pocket lining pieces). Again, I chose to slightly taper the straight, wide legs for a slight cigarette pant look. These ones are tapered slightly less than my first pair as I was worried about this particular fabric looking like leggings if too slim.

Construction took somewhere between 3-4 hours. This time around, I paid careful attention to my markings and sewing went off without a hitch. Sewing instructions were straightforward with the trickiest part being the attachment of elastic to inner waistband. Sewing might have been even quicker if I hadn’t worn them around for a few minutes while determining a final hem length.

Final Thoughts

Despite the fact that my son called this outfit pajamas (“Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”), I will proudly wear this outfit both separately and together in public. Separately, the trousers will likely be paired with one of my many Nikko Tops for a polished, business casual look. The Sheridan will look just right paired with high waisted jeans or wide leg pants. In fact, I’m just about to try it on with a few pairs of my handmade pants to determine my favorite pairing. Will report back.

Pretty sure this photo was snapped at the exact moment my son said, “Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”

This was my second time sewing up a pair of Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with the intention of a matching set. The first time they were paired with the Hey June Evans Blazer (read more about that set here). Clearly, I have a thing with pairing patterns from the two companies. Perhaps next time, I should mix it up by sewing a pair of Hey June Pants and wearing it with a Friday Pattern Company top? Now, which ones to choose? Adrienne Blouse and Kendrick Overalls? Maybe a Wilder Top and Bryce Cargo Pants? Let me know what you think below!

Thanks for reading!