Sew Fancy Pants 2020 Week 3: Fitting Tips and Tricks Round Up

Fitting…Ahhhhhhh!!!!!!! Does your mind fill with terror at the thought of fitting pants? Does the mention of fit induce panic? Never fear! The fitting fairy is here. Kidding. I’m no fitting expert and won’t proclaim to be one. However, I am here to link you up to some and reassure you that fitting doesn’t have to be scary. In fact, it can be fun and quite informative. Still, frustrations will likely occur.

Here’s the truth. I’ve sewn somewhere around 30 pairs of pants for myself. Around 20 of them were sewn when I hit my pants making stride within the last two years. Even after sewing all of those pants, I can’t proclaim that I’ve ever achieved what one would call a “perfect” fit. Have I achieved a fit that felt close? Sure. I’m of the “done is better than perfect” mindset when it comes to sewing and; fitting is no different. When you spend too much time fitting, you run the risk of overfitting. Some wrinkles are ok and necessary (Anna Allen communicates these thoughts well in this IG post).

In my opinion, the most important questions one should ask when making and fitting pants are:

1. Are these pants comfortable? Can I complete daily tasks while wearing them?

2. How do I feel in these pants? Do they make me want to hide or do I want to show them to the world?

As an aside here: If you initially have negative or neutral feelings about the fit of your pants, it’s sometimes a good idea to set them aside and come back to them a few days or weeks later. Wear them around the house, give them a shot. If they’re still not for you at that point, it’s ok to let them go.

Alright, hopping off of my soapbox now. Let’s get to those resources.

Taking Measurements

Having accurate measurements is the essential first step to getting a good fit. Back in my college sewing class, we took measurements by donning a nylon suit, grabbing a partner, and measuring each other behind a privacy screen. Now, I take my measurements on my own a couple of times per year. If you’re want to make sure you’re taking accurate measurements, I’d suggest checking out this How to Measure Your Body post from Gabby’s Fitting Series on the Sewcialists blog. Seriously, check out all of Gabby’s posts on fitting. They’re excellent.

If you’re looking at an alternate way to get some insight into your personal fitting details, Naomi of HandmadePhD has a great post titled: Quick Sloper using Duct Tape. She is serious about fit, and her knowledge and dedication always inspires me.

Making a Muslin

I’ll be the first to admit that I rarely make muslins. They’re a valuable tool and SO helpful. I’m just not great at forcing myself to make them. I do, however, make muslins when sewing for other people or pattern testing. I’ve also been known to make them when my final project uses precious fabric. The ladies of Sew Altered Style have made a great case for sewing a muslin in their post, The Ultimate Guide to Making Muslins. It’s important, so, “Do as I say, not as I do?”

Even after you’ve worked out issues in a muslin, make sure to do a baste fitting with your final fabric since different contents and weaves will behave differently.

Common Fitting Adjustments

While I have yet to try it myself, the book Pants for Real People comes highly recommended from many pant sewists. I currently have it on hold at my local library and will report back after checking it out. Since it’s out of print, your local library or purchasing the kindle e-book version (here) are probably your best bet.

Many pattern companies have support for fitting their specific pant patterns via sewalongs and blog posts. A quick google search will often bring up others who’ve made a pattern and provided insights. I’ve found them to be quite helpful even when not using those specific patterns. Here’s a list of some of my most visited fitting posts:

Closet Case Patterns Jean Fitting Adjustments for Your Best Fitting Jeans

Closet Case Patterns Pants Fitting Adjustments: Best Tips for Pants Fitting the Sasha Trousers

Itch to Stitch Liana Jeans Sewalong

Chalk & Notch Crew Fitting & Custom Adjustments

Melly Sews A Guide To Pants Fitting Problems – Sew Pants That Fit You

Final Fitting Thoughts/Advice

You’ve got this! I believe in you! The best piece of advice I can give you is to pick one or two things that are most important in your personal pants fit (comfort, non-gaping waistband, roomy calves, etc.). Once you’ve determined those things, focus on one at a time. There’s a learning curve (perhaps, curves?) to fit so don’t expect perfection on your first try. Trial and error is often the best way to learn these things. Give yourself some grace and pat yourself on the back for making the effort. Need more help? Reach out to the sewing community in a Facebook group or using the #sewingsos on Instagram. Often pattern makers are happy to help fit their patterns as well. Wishing you luck in your pants fitting endeavors!

Don’t want to spend too much time fitting? Check out this great round up of Easy to Fit Pants by Sew Altered Style.