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Sew Fancy Pants 2020 Week 3: Fitting Tips and Tricks Round Up

Fitting…Ahhhhhhh!!!!!!! Does your mind fill with terror at the thought of fitting pants? Does the mention of fit induce panic? Never fear! The fitting fairy is here. Kidding. I’m no fitting expert and won’t proclaim to be one. However, I am here to link you up to some and reassure you that fitting doesn’t have to be scary. In fact, it can be fun and quite informative. Still, frustrations will likely occur.

Here’s the truth. I’ve sewn somewhere around 30 pairs of pants for myself. Around 20 of them were sewn when I hit my pants making stride within the last two years. Even after sewing all of those pants, I can’t proclaim that I’ve ever achieved what one would call a “perfect” fit. Have I achieved a fit that felt close? Sure. I’m of the “done is better than perfect” mindset when it comes to sewing and; fitting is no different. When you spend too much time fitting, you run the risk of overfitting. Some wrinkles are ok and necessary (Anna Allen communicates these thoughts well in this IG post).

In my opinion, the most important questions one should ask when making and fitting pants are:

1. Are these pants comfortable? Can I complete daily tasks while wearing them?

2. How do I feel in these pants? Do they make me want to hide or do I want to show them to the world?

As an aside here: If you initially have negative or neutral feelings about the fit of your pants, it’s sometimes a good idea to set them aside and come back to them a few days or weeks later. Wear them around the house, give them a shot. If they’re still not for you at that point, it’s ok to let them go.

Alright, hopping off of my soapbox now. Let’s get to those resources.

Taking Measurements

Having accurate measurements is the essential first step to getting a good fit. Back in my college sewing class, we took measurements by donning a nylon suit, grabbing a partner, and measuring each other behind a privacy screen. Now, I take my measurements on my own a couple of times per year. If you’re want to make sure you’re taking accurate measurements, I’d suggest checking out this How to Measure Your Body post from Gabby’s Fitting Series on the Sewcialists blog. Seriously, check out all of Gabby’s posts on fitting. They’re excellent.

If you’re looking at an alternate way to get some insight into your personal fitting details, Naomi of HandmadePhD has a great post titled: Quick Sloper using Duct Tape. She is serious about fit, and her knowledge and dedication always inspires me.

Making a Muslin

I’ll be the first to admit that I rarely make muslins. They’re a valuable tool and SO helpful. I’m just not great at forcing myself to make them. I do, however, make muslins when sewing for other people or pattern testing. I’ve also been known to make them when my final project uses precious fabric. The ladies of Sew Altered Style have made a great case for sewing a muslin in their post, The Ultimate Guide to Making Muslins. It’s important, so, “Do as I say, not as I do?”

Even after you’ve worked out issues in a muslin, make sure to do a baste fitting with your final fabric since different contents and weaves will behave differently.

Common Fitting Adjustments

While I have yet to try it myself, the book Pants for Real People comes highly recommended from many pant sewists. I currently have it on hold at my local library and will report back after checking it out. Since it’s out of print, your local library or purchasing the kindle e-book version (here) are probably your best bet.

Many pattern companies have support for fitting their specific pant patterns via sewalongs and blog posts. A quick google search will often bring up others who’ve made a pattern and provided insights. I’ve found them to be quite helpful even when not using those specific patterns. Here’s a list of some of my most visited fitting posts:

Closet Case Patterns Jean Fitting Adjustments for Your Best Fitting Jeans

Closet Case Patterns Pants Fitting Adjustments: Best Tips for Pants Fitting the Sasha Trousers

Itch to Stitch Liana Jeans Sewalong

Chalk & Notch Crew Fitting & Custom Adjustments

Melly Sews A Guide To Pants Fitting Problems – Sew Pants That Fit You

Final Fitting Thoughts/Advice

You’ve got this! I believe in you! The best piece of advice I can give you is to pick one or two things that are most important in your personal pants fit (comfort, non-gaping waistband, roomy calves, etc.). Once you’ve determined those things, focus on one at a time. There’s a learning curve (perhaps, curves?) to fit so don’t expect perfection on your first try. Trial and error is often the best way to learn these things. Give yourself some grace and pat yourself on the back for making the effort. Need more help? Reach out to the sewing community in a Facebook group or using the #sewingsos on Instagram. Often pattern makers are happy to help fit their patterns as well. Wishing you luck in your pants fitting endeavors!

Don’t want to spend too much time fitting? Check out this great round up of Easy to Fit Pants by Sew Altered Style.

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Personal Sewing Plans

Hello! What a wonderful, busy week it’s been. Today I’m sharing one last pattern post as part of Sew Fancy Pants 2020. This post is all about my personal sewing plans for the month. As you read, please keep in mind that I’ve been planning and prepping these projects for months. You do not need to make more than one project to take part in Sew Fancy Pants, in fact, you only need to try and show progress. Post your progress and projects on Instagram using the #sewfancypants2020 and we’ll all celebrate your accomplishments together. Now, here’s what I have planned for the month.

Project 1: Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers

I know, I’ve already shared a post about these pants (original post here) but, I love them so much that they’re worth mentioning. With my son still out of school for the holiday break, I knew sewing time would be short. I needed a quick, easy, win. Knit pants like the Joan Trousers are a great option when you don’t want to fuss too much with fitting details or fancy finishes. If you’re looking for a quick project during the month, the True Bias Hudson Pants and Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings are also good options.

Project 2: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

Since making my first pair of Ginger Jeans in January 2018 (read about my other Ginger Jeans here, here and here) I’ve wanted a true black pair. During Black Friday sales, I purchased a few yards of true black denim from Threadbare Fabrics. A black pair of skinny jeans feels classic. I have a feeling that I’ll continue wearing them long after skinny jeans have gone out of style.

Project 3: Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

Inspired by the (this specific pair) Jesse Kamm Ranger Pant, the Dawn Jeans are a project I’ve wanted to try since last year’s Sew Fancy Pants. I’ll be using light brown cotton twill left over from my most worn pair of Persephone Pants (here) that should work a treat. Hoping they’ll become a fast favorite. This will be the first new-to-me pant pattern of the month, so be prepared for some detailed fitting stories and a Philipa Pant vs. Dawn Jeans comparison coming during week 3.

Project 4: Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Easy to wear woven pants with an elastic waist became wardrobe staples last year. The Free Range Slacks have a side panel detail that closely matches this Pinterest inspiration. I’ll be using a stripe from D & H Fabrics. Looking forward to making this happen at the end of the month.

Project 5 (Stretch Goal): Misusu Patterns Alex Jogger Pants

My son is in desperate need of new sweatpants after growing out of his favorite pairs of True Bias Hudson Pants. If time permits, I’m planning to sew some Misusu Patterns Alex Pants and use scraps to color block a few pairs.

There you have it. I have lofty goals for the month and I’m crossing my fingers that they’ll all come to fruition. Regardless of how the projects go, I’ll share progress here and on Instagram so, stay tuned!

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020 Week 1: New Pant Pattern Round Up

Week one of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is off to a rousing start! Yesterday I shared my first project, a pair of Joan Trousers (see post here), tomorrow I’ll be sharing my personal sewing plans for the month, and today, I’ve got a round up of new (within the last year) pant/trouser patterns. Since last year’s posts included a lot of patterns, I thought that I’d focus on new patterns for this year. Before we get going, here are some links to last years posts including more pattern and fabric inspiration.

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Beginner Edition

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Intermediate/Advanced Trouser Edition

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Jeans Edition

Traditional Trousers/Pants

Chalk and Notch Crew Shorts and Trousers: The Crew Trousers include a pleated front, tapered legs, side zip, and tie belt. With thorough instructions, they’re a great place for an advanced beginner to start. Size Range waist: 25-43″ (63.5-109 cm) hip: 35-53″ (89-135 cm)

By Hand London Jackie Trousers: The pleated front, fly zip, and slightly tapered leg are a nod to menswear that I can get behind. Size Range (note: the measurements for this pattern are the finished measurements)- waist: 29-47.75″ (73.5-121 cm) hip: 45.25-63.5″ (115.5-161.5 cm)

Opian Vaulion Trousers: These beauties feature center leg seams on front and back with diagonal pockets that add interest. Size Range waist: 22- 37.75″ (56-96 cm) hip: 32.25-48″ (82-122 cm)

Casual Elastic Waist Trousers/Pants

Muna and Broad Glebe Pants: With a fantastic plus-size size range, the Glebe Pants are a welcome new addition to the sewing community. They include wide legs and options for a flat front or fully elasticated waist. Size Range waist: 40-60″ (101.5-152cm) hip: 46.5-71.5″ (118-181.5 cm)

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks: These slacks include options for a straight, cropped leg or a tapered leg. The side panels are my favorite detail and add great opportunity for color blocking or playing with stripes. Size Range waist: 23.5-39.5″ (60-100 cm) hip: 34-50″ (86-127 cm)

Made by Rae Rose: This much anticipated pattern includes a high rise, wide leg, flat, pleated front, and three lengths: shorts, crop, and long. Size Range waist: 26.5-51″ (67-130 cm) hip: 34.5-59″ (88-150 cm)

Paper Theory Miller Trouser: These trousers include the option for either an elasticated or tie waist. Other features are back darts and tapered legs. Size Range waist: 24-47.5″ (61-121 cm) hip: 34-57.5″ (86-146 cm)

Closet Case Patterns Pietra Shorts and Pants: With paneled fronts, angled pockets, and options for a wide or tapered leg, it’s easy to see why this pattern has been seen all over the sewing community. Size Range waist: 24-39″ (61-99 cm) hip: 33-48″ (84-122 cm)

Pants with Extra Fancy Details

Digital Pattern Library Empire Trousers: These trousers feature a wide leg, pleated front, and unique stepped waistband. Ties around the legs are an optional feature. Size Range waist: 24-44.75″ (61-114 cm) hip: 33-54″ (84-137 cm)

In the Folds Darlow Pants: The abundance of style lines and curved seams make these pants a blank canvas for all things fancy. Adding details such as piping, color blocking, or contrast topstitching would easily highlight the distinctive design. Size Range waist: 24-45.625″ (61-116 cm) hip: 33-54.75″ (84-139 cm)

Pants with a Vintage Vibe

Anna Allen Philippa Pants: My Philippa Pants (post here) have become my go-to pants. The simple pocket-free front, high waist and tapered legs make me feel like a million bucks. Size Range waist: 24-41″ (61-104 cm) hip: 34-51″ (86-129.5 cm)

Tilly and the Buttons Jessa Trousers: With flared legs, patch pockets, and a high waist, the 1970’s vibes are strong with these ones. Size Range waist: 24-38″ (61-96.5 cm) hip: 33-47″ (84-119.5 cm)

Itch to Stitch Gobi Culottes: Ten years ago, I owned a ready-to-wear pair of pants very similar to the Gobi Culottes. The 1980’s vibes set them apart from many currently available pant patterns. Size Range waist: 24.38-40.5″ (64.5-103 cm) hip: 33.25-48″ (84.5-122 cm)

Pants that are a Little More than Pants

Helen’s Closet Yanta Overalls: A relaxed, modern twist on overalls, I’ve been dreaming of making a pair since their release. Size Range waist: 24-48″ (61-122 cm) hip: 33-58″ (84-147.5 cm)

CocoWawa Raspberry Jumpsuit: Including several strap options, and bodice shirring, the Raspberry jumpsuit is a perfect option for those doing a bit of summer sewing. Size Range waist: 23-41″ (59-104 cm) hip: 31-49″ (80-125 cm)

Assembly Line V-Neck Jumpsuit: This one may be a little harder to acquire as it’s only available in printed form at the moment. However, the uncomplicated minimalist look has me searching for US stockists and pulling out the tracing tools. Size Range waist: 25-44″ (64-112 cm) hip: 35.75-52.75″ (91-134 cm)

There you have it. Just a sampling of this last year’s newly released pant patterns. Do you have a favorite? Is there one you love that I’ve missed?

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Joan Trousers with Bonus Sheridan Sweater

Hello! Wishing you all a happy new year! Yesterday, in an ostentatious end to 2019, I finished my first Sew Fancy Pants project: A pair of polka dotted Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with accompanying Hey June Sheridan Sweater. Now I’m wondering how I’ve lived my life without a matching set such as this one. Read on for all the details.

Fabric

I’ve had my eye on this Double Face Sweater Knit from La Mercerie since Adrianna of Hey June used it for her Evans Blazer sample. I promised myself that if La Mercerie had a Black Friday sale and this was still available then, I could buy it. Thankfully, the fabric gods were on my side and I was able to purchase 3.5 yards.

What’s that? Oh, you noticed those matching earrings? Why, yes. I did make them specifically to match this outfit.

Sheridan Sweater

Adrianna’s Polka Dot Sheridan Sweater (sample in listing photos) was actually the catalyst behind this entire outfit. Upon seeing it, I was smitten with the bell sleeves and couldn’t get the idea of a matching sweater set out of my head. The shape of the sweater combined with this polka dot fabric feels a little bit 1960’s mod and I am here for it.

This Sheridan is view B with bell sleeves. Size is a 6 graded to a 10 at the hips with 1″ of length added to the bodice and sleeves.

Sewing the Sheridan took about two hours including the time it took me to sit down and eat breakfast with my son. Really, it was that easy. Now I need to hurry up and order more of this fabric to make a Sheridan Dress.

Joan Trousers

Friday Pattern Company describes the Joan Trousers as “treggings” (trouser/leggings). It’s an accurate description of a clothing item I didn’t know I needed in my life. They combine the comfort of pajama pants with the look of tailored trousers (pockets! belt loops! faux button front waistband!) Sure, they look more casual in this particular fabric but, in a nice solid ponte or double knit, they’d be office ready in no time.

This time around I used all the same adjustments made to my first pair. Sewed a size large with 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, and 3″ added to the length (Just FYI: since this pattern doesn’t include a lengthen shorten line at the rise, I simply added the 1/2″ to the top of the front and back pieces as well as the pocket and pocket lining pieces). Again, I chose to slightly taper the straight, wide legs for a slight cigarette pant look. These ones are tapered slightly less than my first pair as I was worried about this particular fabric looking like leggings if too slim.

Construction took somewhere between 3-4 hours. This time around, I paid careful attention to my markings and sewing went off without a hitch. Sewing instructions were straightforward with the trickiest part being the attachment of elastic to inner waistband. Sewing might have been even quicker if I hadn’t worn them around for a few minutes while determining a final hem length.

Final Thoughts

Despite the fact that my son called this outfit pajamas (“Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”), I will proudly wear this outfit both separately and together in public. Separately, the trousers will likely be paired with one of my many Nikko Tops for a polished, business casual look. The Sheridan will look just right paired with high waisted jeans or wide leg pants. In fact, I’m just about to try it on with a few pairs of my handmade pants to determine my favorite pairing. Will report back.

Pretty sure this photo was snapped at the exact moment my son said, “Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”

This was my second time sewing up a pair of Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with the intention of a matching set. The first time they were paired with the Hey June Evans Blazer (read more about that set here). Clearly, I have a thing with pairing patterns from the two companies. Perhaps next time, I should mix it up by sewing a pair of Hey June Pants and wearing it with a Friday Pattern Company top? Now, which ones to choose? Adrienne Blouse and Kendrick Overalls? Maybe a Wilder Top and Bryce Cargo Pants? Let me know what you think below!

Thanks for reading!

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Let’s Sew Fancy Pants 2020!

Hello! The new year is upon us! With a new year often comes new goals, challenges, and hopefully, some fun. In January, Sew Fancy Pants is back for 2020 and bringing a bit of all those things. Returning hosts Katie and Nicole will be joined by Rumana of The Little Pomegranate, Sierra of Sierra Burrell, and Brad of Brad Schultz Design. Ready for all the details? Keep reading for information on participation, giveaways, and more.

What is Sew Fancy Pants?

The mission of Sew Fancy Pants is to get members of the sewing community making pants that are their own definition of “fancy” and have a little fun while we’re at it. Everyone’s definition of fancy pants might be different, and that’s ok, we accept all forms of fancy pants. Perhaps one may want a professional looking pair of pants for work, maybe someone wants to dip their toes into the wide leg pants trend, or maybe you simply want a pair of silk pants or velvet joggers. This challenge is for everyone. Each week of January will have a theme, some weeks will have giveaways, ending the month with a Fancy Pants Dance Off and grand prize giveaway. To participate, just sew some “fancy” pants and use the hashtag #sewfancypants2020 on IG. Read to the bottom of this post for information on how to be entered in the grand prize giveaway.

Week 1 (Dec 30-Jan 5): Pattern Selection

Nicole will kick off Sew Fancy Pants with a week all about patterns. There will be posts detailing personal “fancy pants” sewing plans and resources for picking a pattern right for your personal style and skill level. Don’t miss the almost daily Instagram giveaways starting January 1st!

Week 1 Sponsors:

Friday Pattern Company

Cashmerette

Megan Nielsen

Tilly and the Buttons

Thread Theory

Named Clothing

Week 2 (Jan 6-12): Fabric

Katie, fabric designer extraordinaire, will lead us in week two. This week we’ll be focusing on fabric selections and sharing tips on how to source high quality bottom weight fabrics. Look for posts filled with fabric ideas and maybe even some discount codes. We’ve teamed up with several fabric sponsors to give away gift cards and fabrics perfect for your fancy pants sewing needs. Make sure you’re following all five of us on Instagram to stay up to date on these giveaways.

Week 2 Sponsors:

Spoonflower

Threadbare Fabrics

Imagine Gnats

Sew Me Sunshine

Fabric.com

Week 3 (Jan 13-19): Fitting

Sierra and Nicole are teaming up to lead in week three. This week we’ll tackle fitting. Hosts will share personal fitting tips and tricks along with favorite resources for achieving your desired fit. Fitting can be scary but, we’ll show you that good fit is an achievable goal.

Week 4 (Jan 20-26): Fancy Finishes/What Makes Your Pants Fancy?

Brad and Rumana will talk all about those details in week four. This week our focus will be adding those special details that make our fancy pants special. Whether its unique buttons, interesting trim, custom tags, or stylish top stitching, this week will be about the stuff that makes handmade items truly one of a kind. 

Week 4 Sponsor:

Topstitch

Week 5 (Jan 27-31): Wrap Up and Fancy Pants Dance Off

This week we’re challenging participants to let loose and dance in your newly made fancy pants. When participants dance in their fancy pants and post it to their Instagram using #sewfancypantsdance and #sewfancypants2020, they’ll be entered to win a grand prize. Have fun, get creative, and dance those pants off (just not literally off)! The grand prize winner will be chosen by all judges, as well as two prize packages with winners chosen randomly from all participants. To be eligible for the other two prize packages, simply post your fancy pants with the #sewfancypants2020 during the month of January. While we’d LOVE to see a ton of finished fancy pants, progress counts too. Please don’t feel like you can’t participate if there’s not enough sewing time throughout the month to entirely finish your pants. (Note: prizes may be added to and updated throughout the month)

Grand Prize

$100 D & H Fabrics Gift Card

Sewing Box with Haberdashery Items up to £100 in value from Minerva Crafts

$25 Spoonflower Gift Card, Project Book, and Swatches Pack

Sew House Seven PDF Pants Pattern

$25 Closet Case Patterns Gift Card

Opian Geneve Vaulion Trousers PDF Pattern

Prize Package #1

Muna & Broad PDF Pattern

Paper Theory PDF Pattern

Blackbird Fabrics $50 CAD (approx $36 USD) Gift Card

Prize Package #2

Anna Allen Clothing PDF Pattern

Tilly and the Buttons Jessa PDF Pattern

Well, there you have it! We hope you’ll join with us in sewing fancy pants during the month of January. Just tag us in your IG captions and use #sewfancypants to participate. Stay tuned for more information and make sure to follow us on Instagram (Nicole, Katie, Rumana, Sierra, Brad) to stay up to date on all things “fancy pants.”

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Easy Ten Minute Twisted Headband Tutorial

Hello! Today, as part of #sewbows with Vienna of @thelatesew and Rachel of @hello.littlefish, I’m sharing a quick and easy tutorial for a 10 minute twisted headband. I’ve been making these headbands since 2014 when I needed a way to keep my chin length hair out of my eyes and away from my baby’s hands. Last spring I made one as a gift for Rachel’s baby girl (she’s modeling it in these darling photos taken by Rachel). Want to make a simple gift for yourself or the babies in your life? Let’s get down to it.

Tutorial

Supplies

1/4 yard knit fabric (jersey works well)

Coordinating thread

Sizing

0-6 months: 6″ x 14″

6-12 months: 6″ x 15″

Toddler: 7″ x 16″

Child: 8″ x 18″

Adult: 9″ x 19-21″

Cutting

1. Cut a rectangle to the dimensions of desired size (listed above). Some knits have more stretch in one direction. When cutting, make sure direction of most stretch is along the length of your rectangle. 

Assembly

2. Fold rectangle, right sides together, across the length (hotdog style).

3. Stitch a zig-zag stitch 1/2 inch from raw edges along the length. Leave short sides open.  

4. You should now have a tube. Turn the tube so that the right sides of the fabric are now on the outside. 

5. Lay the tube on a table or flat surface so that the seam is centered and facing the flat surface. 

6. Pick up tube with one end in each hand. The side with the seam should still be facing down. We will now refer to the end in your left hand as the left tube end and the end in your right hand as the right tube end. 

Here is where it gets a little tricky. Don’t worry. Just follow the pictures and you should do great!

7. Rotate your left tube end 90 degrees. The seam line should be facing away from you. The ends of your tube should now be forming a T-shape. 

8. Fold the top half of your right tube end over the left tube end until it meets the center seam line. 

9. Now fold the bottom half of your right tube end under the left tube end. It should now look like a backwards “c”  around the left tube end. 

10. Fold the remaining side of your left tube end under the folded right tube end. Now your ends should form a shape that looks like a squished letter “s.”

11. The tricky part is now over. Take your folded tube over to your sewing machine and sew those folds in place with a straight stitch 1/4″ from the raw edges. Backstitch at each end. 

12. Trim threads and excess bulk from raw edges. Turn your head wrap so that the seam is facing inside. You’re finished! 

Thanks for reading! Let me know if you give it a try.

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Wedding Ready with the Evans Blazer and Joan Trousers

Hello! This last week has been filled with all kinds of family festivities. Last Saturday we celebrated my brother’s wedding. Following the wedding, my sister and her children came and stayed with us until yesterday. Having children to play with all week was a dream come true for my only child and spending time with my sister was one for me. There were a few minor hiccups when one child got sick in the movie theater (before we knew he was sick), all three children ended up sick, and I put the turkey in the oven one hour late after not setting an alarm. Despite a wild few days, I’m left feeling grateful for family that is down to roll with the punches and take on life’s bumps together. It was a lovely week overall and we’re missing our family already. Enough about my week. Let’s get down to the reason I’m writing this post: My secret pajamas wedding suit.

Fabric

One week before my brother’s wedding, I still had no clue what I wanted to wear. That is, until I was browsing Stylemaker Fabrics and discovered this Dusty Rose Ponte Knit. Inspiration struck and 3.5 yards were ordered.

Joan Trousers

The Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers have been on my to-sew list since I wrote a Sew Fancy Pants Fabric Inspiration (Beginner Edition) post in January. Eleven months later, I purchased the pattern and got to work. Based on my measurements, I cut a Large, added 1/2″ to the rise (there isn’t I lengthen shorten line here so I added it at the top), and added 3″ to the leg length at the lengthen/shorten line. Inspired by bluefloralneedles and pinkcoatclub, the legs were tapered for a cigarette pant vibe.

Sewing the Joan Trousers was quick and relatively painless. Most of the sewing took place one afternoon. I was nearing the finish line when I noticed that I’d accidentally placed the belt loops along the wrong markings. One hour of seam ripping later, the belt loops were correctly attached and I was on my way to a finished pair of pants.

Evans Blazer

Since it’s release, the Hey June Evans Blazer has been near the top of my favorites list. This one didn’t turn out quite as well as I’d like (mostly because this fabric is on the lighter side) but, it’s still wearable, just needs a bit of tweaking.

Based on the size chart, I cut a 6 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. Added 1/2″ of length to the blazer and 1″ of length to the sleeves. Size wise, all of these alterations seemed about right.

Before I get into the issues I had, I want to clarify that the sizing and instructions were accurate and thorough. The following issues had to do with my fabric choice, not the pattern. I fully intend to make this pattern again in a better suited fabric.

First, my fabric is a lightweight rayon/nylon ponte and has a bit of drape. This means the collar doesn’t stay in place on it’s own. I did hand tack a couple of spots on the collar but, they came undone after a bit of dancing and child wrangling. Now that the wedding is over, I plan to go back and hand tack the entire collar.

Second, also due to the lightweight nature of the fabric, my hem had to be sewn by machine. I spent an hour making a hand sewn blind hem on the blazer bottom and it DID NOT look good. While not sold on the visible topstitching, it’s better than what I had before. Perhaps I’ve lost my blind hemming skills after not using them for a while but the small divots made by the blind hem were extremely noticeable in this color and fabric weight. A darker color would likely not have the same result. The visible stitching makes the blazer more casual than intended.

Final Thoughts

Despite my fabric issues with the Evans Blazer, I’m quite pleased with the overall look created here. Many of my brother’s wedding guests complimented my pink pantsuit while the knit fabric kept me comfortable throughout set up, take down, and everything in between. The trousers are bound to become a staple and with a little work, the blazer will become one as well.

Thanks for reading!

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Reversible Tamarack Jacket

Disclosure: The pattern for this post was provided to me by Indiesew. All opinions are my own.

Goooood morning! Today I’m sharing a project that feels like an amalgamation of my sewing journey. I’ve always found joy in creating and had access to a sewing machine from a young age. However, it wasn’t until I took a few college sewing classes that my love of sewing blossomed. Those sewing classes led me to a magical place called Suppose. It was there that my love affair with fabric began. During my five years working there, I came to love quilting and was serendipitously introduced to the world of indie sewing patterns. There I purchased my first indie apparel pattern: a paper copy of the Grainline Studio Scout Tee. Now, years later, I’m here writing a blog post about another Grainline pattern, the Tamarack Jacket.

Preparing the Patchwork

Over the years, I’ve acquired an unhealthily large stash of scraps. Letting go of beautiful fabrics has never been top priority here. In a moment of creative energy, I began piecing together large scraps in October 2018. Then, I cut them down, pieced them back together, and….. forgot about them for nearly a year. Early this October, the project was resumed and I slowly added scraps one fabric or block at a time.

Once the patchwork reached a size of approximately 60″ x 60″, the Tamarack pattern pieces were placed to determine a cutting layout. Then, I roughly cut around each piece leaving about an inch of extra fabric on all sides. Using the roughly cut pieces I cut batting and backing pieces. Finally, each piece was quilted with straight lines 2″ apart and cut down to its proper size.

Sizing Alterations

According to the size chart, I should be a 4 at the bust and a 10 at the hip. Over the years I’ve noticed that Grainline patterns often include a generous amount of ease. Consulting the finished garment measurements confirmed this observation. In the end, I decided to size up in the bust and arms to provide plenty of room for layering. This led me to sew a straight size 6. My only other sizing alteration would be adding 5/8″ to the sleeve length.

Creating the Wrap Front

The simplicity of this particular “pattern hack” makes it feel like less of a hack and more of a pattern shortcut. An added bonus of a simple wrap front vs. the snap or button closure? A fully reversible jacket. Say “hello” to the Ace and Jig inspired side of my Tamarack Jacket. Want the details on how to hack your own? Let’s do this.

Pattern Preparation

  1. Grab your front bodice pattern piece. Draw a diagonal line connecting the top of the neckline (at the shoulder) to the lengthen shorten line at the center front (view B). Curve line slightly for a smoother look. Remove excess paper to the right of this line. Cut front pieces as indicated. For this version I also chose to curve the bottom of the center front.
  2. Create four belt loops by cutting a piece of binding fabric 1.25″ x 13.” Fold in half and sew along the length with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave short ends open and use a safety pin or tube turner to turn right side out. Cut this into four 3″ pieces. Baste belt loops to front jacket pieces on both the inside and outside.
  3. Cut a belt piece that is 3″ wide by desired length (mine was about 62″ long). Use a 1/4″ seam to sew around all edges, leaving a 2-3″ opening for turning. Turn right side out and sew the opening.

Construction

  1. Sew shoulder seams as indicated in pattern step 26. Finish the shoulder seams with bias binding for a clean finish.
  2. Apply bias binding to neckline and front as indicated in pattern step 27. Do NOT apply bias binding to the back bottom piece yet.
  3. Follow pattern step 28. Finish this seam with bias binding.
  4. Sew sides as indicated in pattern step 29. Now, starting at end of one sleeve, use continuous piece of binding to bind the sleeve seam, down the side, across the back bottom, up the other side and across the other sleeve seam. This part is probably the most confusing and time consuming of all. Don’t give up. You’re almost finished.
  5. Bind sleeve hems as indicated in pattern step 30. Hooray! Trim any stray threads and enjoy your finished jacket.

Final Thoughts

Last week I posted a photo of my in progress patchwork. One commenter called it a “love letter to a fabric stash.” This sentiment has stuck with me since reading it and holds true in this Tamarack Jacket. In it I see bits of old projects, stray quilt blocks, and scraps left from gifts made for loved ones; all pieced alongside bits of my own fabric favorites. Each fabric connects me to a moment in time, joining my sewing past and present into a wearable warm hug.

Note: If you haven’t heard the news, Indiesew will be closing up shop and no longer available after November 30th. Read the goodbye announcement here for further details. I’m going to miss the enrichment and inspiration that Indiesew has contributed to the online sewing world and wish Allie all the best in her future endeavors. Thank you Indiesew for being a cherished part of the community and my personal sewing journey.

Thanks for reading!

Earrings by Studio Ramii

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#SewFreeFall: Family Edition and a Handmade Wardrobe at Disneyland

Hello! I promise that I’ll eventually stop mentioning our recent trip to Disneyland but, it might take a bit. This was the longest and biggest vacation I’ve been on since moving out of my parent’s house after graduating from high school. Taking my son to a place where he kept mentioning, “This is a child’s best dream!” felt magical. My first experience with Disneyland was at fifteen, so seeing everything through the eyes of a six year old was a true joy. Ok, enough blubbering about my feelings here, time to talk about the handmade pieces that kept us clothed.

1. #SewFreeFall: Family Edition

Like me, my son is a big fan of twinning outfits. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that he’s an only child but, he LOVES when I make him clothes using the same fabric as mine (just check the #momandkentwinagain for proof) or that match his cousins. This time I couldn’t leave my husband out of the matching fun. I opted out of matching since I’m not likely to wear a Star Wars shirt outside of Disneyland and dressed in a themed outfit pulled from my wardrobe instead (details on my outfit in my last #SewFreeFall post here). With final fabric approval from my husband, I ordered a Star Wars print jersey (here) from Joann.

My husband’s tee is the free Sage Tee by Elbe Textiles. His measurements put him in a size G. However, after looking at finished measurements and comparing the pattern pieces to his favorite tee, I opted to size down to an E. The only other change being an additional 1/2″ of length added at the hem. He’s now worn the shirt twice and is satisfied with the overall fit. It’s a little wider in the sides than his personal preference. Just something I’ll keep in mind for adjustments the next go around.

For my son, I used the free Rowan Tee by Misusu Patterns. I sewed up a size 6-7yr and added 1/2″ to the length. I’ve sewn this pattern a couple of times before and it’s quickly becoming my go-to for quick and easy kid tees. In fact, I’m already planning a few long-sleeve versions for the winter months ahead.

2. Themed Pieces for the Trip

My son was the lucky one this time and got all the new pieces for our vacation. Getting in the spirit of Disney and Halloween, I decided to make him a couple of themed items.

Knight Hoodie

The Knight Hoodie by Charming Doodle has been around the online sewing world for about seven years now. This trip, and the fact that my son is in need of a new hoodie, was the perfect excuse to stitch one up. Here’s the truth: I couldn’t wait to surprise my son with this hoodie so I showed it to him immediately after school one day. He almost immediately teared up because he wished it was a Minecraft hoodie and there aren’t knights in Minecraft. Good news though! After trying it on, he remarked, “It’s so cozy!” and now happily dresses like a knight not in Minecraft.

I used a size 8 with no size modifications. I did slightly change the shape of the front hood to match up with the top of my zipper, giving it a bit more professional finish. The fabric is a black fleece sweat shirting that I purchased from Raspberry Creek Fabrics.

Zombie Prepster Pullover

This shirt has been months in the making. My son and I were visiting my friends at Suppose in Preston, ID when we spotted this Alexander Henry zombie print cotton. Over the last several months, we used these Crayola fabric markers to color random zombies throughout the fabric.

A week before leaving on vacation, I decided it would be the perfect opportunity to finally sew up this fabric. The Blank Slate Patterns Prepster Pullover turned out to be just the right fit. I’ve been making this pattern for my son since he was a toddler. There are a few instructions (inserting the sleeve for instance) that are missing from my printed paper version (can’t speak to the PDF version or updated printed versions) so be aware of that if you plan to make it. This version is a straight size 8 with no modifications.

3. Daily Outfits

Making clothes that fit into my daily life is my jam. Packing for this trip was only made difficult by the fact that I had plenty of good options. This, however, hasn’t always been the case for me. Two years ago, I went to Denver for four days and had to buy a pair of pants at Target the night before because I didn’t have enough without doing laundry for four days. It’s taken years to grow my handmade wardrobe to a point where I feel like most everything is useful and representative of my personality. Ok, here’s a quick overview of what I wore during the day.

I wore my Loominous Zadie Jumpsuit on our first full day in Disney. It was cool, easy to wear, and even got compliments from a couple of ladies who recognized the Anna Maria Horner fabric I’d used. One of them was wearing a top made from April Rhodes fabric so we momentarily bonded over our love of fabric. Sewing is pretty dang cool.

On our second day in Disneyland, my son requested that we wear our Mickey Halloween shirts. Paired with my favorite pair of Persephone Pants and a fanny pack, I definitely felt like a stereotypical tourist.

My son is wearing the Misusu Patterns Olli Shorts and Pants (free with code in Misusu Patterns Facebook Group) in both of the above photos. He has four pairs of shorts and three pairs of pants using this pattern so it’s a favorite around here. The large pockets turned out to be just the right size for carrying his autograph book and some small snacks.

4. Family Photo Outfits

Am I over the top for hiring a photographer to capture some family photos while in Disneyland? Maybe. However, we haven’t taken formal family photos since my son was three and I wanted to remember this trip. I also wanted a few photos that included all of us looking decent. The kind and talented Chelsea of Chelsea Frandsen Photography captured these and so many more for us. I’m going to treasure these photos and memories forever.

It took all my self-control to NOT sew anything new for these photos. When I couldn’t decide what to wear, I let my son choose his shirt and chose my outfit around it. This Oliver and S Sketchbook Shirt in pixelated cotton print is one of my son’s favorites. Picking up on the orange specks in the print, I decided to wear my Fringe Dress Pattern Jumpsuit Hack (details here).

We snapped these photos just before heading to Oogie Boogie’s Halloween Bash. My son changed into a costume in the bathroom and I continued to wear this jumpsuit. It worked a treat, except for the incident where the invisible zipper got stuck open in the bathroom. I almost had to leave the bathroom exposing the right side of my body. After about five minutes of troubleshooting, I got the zipper fixed and averted a wardrobe malfunction.

Well, there you have it. All the details of our handmade vacation wardrobes in one place. If you’ve made it this far, thanks for indulging me and reading!

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Sewing Patterns by Masin: Belen Bodysuit

Disclosure: The Belen Bodysuit PDF pattern was provided to me in exchange for a review. Fabric was purchased by me. All opinions are my own.

Hello! I’m back from a Disneyland vacation and nearly recovered from a week of nonstop walking, eating, and magic. Before leaving on vacation, I finished one last project: this Sewing Patterns by Masin Belen Bodysuit. Wanting something, whimsical, practical, and a bit sexy to wear for our planned date night, I sat at my sewing machine and got to work. This bodysuit fits the bill nicely by combining a low-scooped back with the comfort of a t-shirt. Ready to dive right in to all the details? Let’s do this.

belenbody-2

Fabric

I waffled back and forth over fabric choice for weeks. Did I want stripes? Florals? A solid? Once the weather cooled a bit, I started layering and realized that the pieces I reached for most often were my black and white prints. They seamlessly mix with everything in my wardrobe while still adding visual interest. Enter this Crowded Faces viscose crepe knit purchased from Topstitch Atlanta (currently on sale so grab it now). It has a nice textured hand, is slightly sheer and, thanks to the spandex content, also has great recovery. Due to the lightweight sheer nature of the fabric, I did opt to line both the bodice and bottom portion of the bodysuit with white rayon/spandex for a bit of extra coverage and stability.

Sizing and Alterations

The Belen Bodysuit sizing chart put me in a size small at the bust then right between medium and large at the waist and hips. Following these measurements, I graded the pattern accordingly. I also added 1″ in length to the bottom of the bodice, top of the bottoms, and 2″ in length to the sleeves. There’s no lengthen/shorten line on the sleeves so I arbitrarily made a straight line to cut and spread along the top half of the sleeve. If I make this pattern again, I might add another 1″ to the sleeve length (for a total of 3 additional inches). Just personal preference here. I prefer extra long sleeves.

Construction

As the last project before vacation, I crossed my fingers that sewing this up would be smooth sailing. Luck was on my side this time and the Belen came together in an afternoon. Honestly, It took me almost as much time to hand stitch the snaps as it did to sew the rest of the bodysuit. The viscose crepe fabric presented a bit of difficulty if I tried going too fast so; I tried to keep a slow and steady pace. Using a lightning stitch, I sewed the whole thing on my sewing machine. A serger was only used to finish the sleeves before hemming.

Lining the Bodysuit Bottom

In order to line the bottom portion of the bodysuit, I deviated slightly from the instructions. Here’s how: Instead of using the crotch lining pieces, cut one front bottom and one back bottom from the lining fabric. Then, sew the side seams on the lining according to the instructions in step 4. Next, place the lining and outer bottoms right sides together, sandwich the lingerie elastic between the two, and sew it on as indicated in step 5. Finally, stitch across the bottom of the crotch pieces with a 1/4″ seam allowance and turned the bottoms right side out. Using a double needle or zig zag stitch, stitch along the edges of the leg openings to secure the elastic and keep the lining from rolling out.

Final Thoughts

I was initially unsure about the idea of a bodysuit. My biggest qualm being that I might feel like a baby in a onesie. Happy to report that I did not once feel like an overgrown baby whilst wearing the Belen. In fact, I felt quite sexy. Well, as sexy as one can feel in an outfit practical enough for riding amusement park rides. The only time I regretted my outfit choice was when my back got a little chilly in the restaurant. Next time I’ll remember a jacket for restaurant wear.

As the weather cools, I don’t see that scooped back making too many appearances. However, I’m imagining this will be a lovely layering piece worn under cardigans, button ups, and my favorite jackets. I’m looking forward to playing around with styling options and can’t wait to integrate this new piece into my fall/winter wardrobe.

One last thing to note: Some of my lighter weight pants do show what looks like underwear lines with this bodysuit so I’ll have to stick to pairing it with flowy skirts or heavier weight bottoms like these 12 oz denim Phillipa Pants.

Thanks for reading!