Sew Fancy Pants Project 1: Persephone Pants, a Roscoe Blouse, and Triumph

Week one of #sewfancypants is coming to an end and what a week it’s been. Honestly, I’m a bit teary-eyed (in a good way) about it all. (PSA: This post veers a bit from my normal format. If you’re just here for fabric or fitting details, you’ll find them by scrolling to the bottom of this post) Maybe it’s the fact that organizing this whole deal has brought me new friends in Loni, Jen, and Katie, perhaps something to do with so many of you participating and sharing the love, or I’m simply at the tail end of an emotional roller coaster of a month but, right now, I’m feeling triumphant. It’s a moment I want to hold onto as I sit here typing tonight. Looking at the picture below, that’s what I see. Triumph.

There are few times in my life where I can describe feeling truly triumphant, in fact, I could list them all here:

  • One time in the state middle school mock trial tournament when, as a ‘witness’, I made the opposing team ‘lawyer’ so frustrated he nearly broke into tears.
  • I was so deliriously tired that I don’t remember the exact timeline, but sometime in the first few weeks of my son’s life when I held my son and just knew we had always belonged to each other.
  • This last summer, drenched in sweat, laughing, and standing under a swamp cooler with my husband after moving most of our belongings into our first home.
  • Wearing this outfit today and looking at the woman I see in the above picture.

As a child and teen, I was privileged to grow up in a home filled with love, encouragement, humor, and far too many fart jokes. As a result, I never had to worry about so many of the heavy things that are unfairly thrust upon children at a young age. In truth, much of my childhood was uncomplicated and easy. Sure, I initially found it to be difficult to make friends when we moved, and I had no athletic ability but; I found my dearest friends in my siblings and school work came easily to me. Fast forward to just about six years ago….


At the time, I was a newlywed of about six months, struggling in school, and had found out a couple of months prior that I was pregnant (not in our immediate plan at the time). Despite the love and support of friends and family surrounding me, for the first time in my life, life felt heavy, terrifying, and just really darn hard. I was flailing, sad, and too ashamed to ask for the help that I so desperately needed in school. Instead, I decided to quit. I quit with just three semesters remaining until graduation. Just typing that last sentence made my heart sink. That decision isn’t one that makes me proud, but it is one that has shaped the Nicole I now see.

Over the following months and years, I would find myself worrying about the possibility of running into an old professor or classmate while out and about. What would I say? How would I explain what I felt to be a colossal failure? Would they think less of me because of my decision? Was I somehow unworthy of happiness or success because I hadn’t taken full advantage of the opportunities I was given at the time? Feelings of doubt and shame often clouded the back of my mind.

Months passed, I gave birth to a beautiful boy with a full head of blonde hair. My husband chose a new major and worked evenings to support our family. I worked weekends at an inspiring fabric store called Suppose. There, I fell in love with fabric. Sewing had been part of my life for years prior to this but; it was in those quiet lonely evenings, with the apartment all to myself, that I began rebuilding my confidence through creativity.

It started small. I would find a pretty piece of fabric at work and stitch it into a basic top or a small quilt block. Sometimes I’d get crazy and sew a dress. Eventually, I started setting small sewing goals for myself. One of my first was the #supposeselfie. Over the course of a year or so, I set a goal to make something new each week and wear it to work on the weekend. For the most part, I stuck to it and my skills slowly grew. I look back at those pictures and can almost see the self-assurance growing along with my skill set.

Throughout the last several years, I’ve pieced over a dozen quilts, taught a few sewing classes, sewn countless items of apparel, taken on commissions here and there, and even designed a gender neutral collection of children’s play clothing which was shown at Utah Fashion Week in the spring of 2017. In 2018, I leveled up my sewing by making my first coat and several pairs of jeans. I blogged more than ever before, finally moved my website to its own domain, and started reaching out to collaborators. Every item, every stitch, and every opportunity pushed me. Some of these projects brought me to tears with challenges and deadlines both real and imagined. These projects also did something unexpected. They reconnected me to the fearless Nicole that I once knew.

You see, sewing wasn’t something I had to do. It wasn’t paying the family bills or putting food on the table. I could have quit at any time. That first time I cried over a poorly fitting garment? Could’ve quit then. The night my machine went haywire at 2am while trying to finish one of my first commissions? Could’ve quit then. What about applying to show a small collection in Utah Fashion Week when my husband’s school schedule was so full that I was often solo parenting from dawn to bedtime? Did not have to do that. Yet, it happened. I faced my fears. I tried. I failed. I tried again. I failed again. I kept sewing. I didn’t quit. I am not a quitter.

Yesterday as I sewed these Persephone Pants and later this Roscoe Blouse, I took a moment to appreciate how quickly and beautifully they came together. These pants are one of most well made items I’ve ever sewn; yet they came together almost without a hitch. To everyone else, these are just a nice pair of pants but, to me, they’re a symbol of the hours and years I’ve worked to develop the necessary skills, my own personal triumph.

The year 2018 was one of my most challenging yet, both personally and professionally. It included change, difficulty, heartache, and a decent amount of uncertainty. With the challenges of the year also came immense joy, some lost sleep, a lot of hard work, and triumph. Six years ago, the difficulties of 2018 would have stopped me. Today I realized they didn’t. Sure, there were moments where I wanted to stop moving forward, and sometimes I even let those feelings sit with me for a few days, but I didn’t quit.

Looking back on the me I knew six years ago, my only regret is that I didn’t show her a little more compassion. That I didn’t deem her worthy of self-acceptance. Am I proud that I didn’t finish my degree? No. Did I learn from that decision? Yes. Am I still learning from it? You bet. Will I go back and accomplish that goal one day? I plan on it. Until then, I’ll keep sewing and moving forward. Maybe I’ll even figure out what I want to be when I grow up. I’ve got a lot yet to learn, but I’m here for the long haul.

There you have it, a long-winded personal narrative on how sewing taught me self-love, hard work, persistence, and triumph. I cannot close without noting that while this story is about my personal journey with sewing, it wasn’t a road I traveled alone. My husband, son, parents, siblings, and friends cheered and encouraged my creations. Jo and Kathy of Suppose provided a shop full of inspiration where my dreams ran free. I’ve felt the love and encouragement of countless sewing friends both in person and online. Maybe tomorrow I’ll shed a tear over an incorrectly sewn seam or feel discouragement when a post doesn’t get the engagement I’d hoped but, tonight this feels good.

Fabric and Pattern Details

Top: True Bias Roscoe Blouse in Atelier Brunette viscose from D&H Fabrics. Find my Roscoe Blouse fit info in this post.

Pants: Anna Allen Clothing Persephone Pants in Burnt Sienna Twill from D&H Fabrics. Find my Persephone fit info in this post.

Sew Fancy Pants: Pattern Plans and Inspiration

Whew! What a week it’s been and it’s only Wednesday. We’ve been truly blown away by the response to the Fancy Pants Sewing Party over the last couple of days. Excitement is in the air and it makes me want to plan all of the pants sewing. This month, I have three pairs of pants planned with a fourth pair planned as a stretch goal.

Project 1: Persephone Pants

First up, adding something simple and practical to my pants wardrobe. I made my first two pairs of Anna Allen Persephone Pants back in August, and reach for the dusty pink pair weekly. What makes this decision, “fancy?” The high-waisted wide leg pant lends itself well to casual day wear, but looks equally stylish paired with a turtleneck and booties. I plan to use a sienna twill inspired by the Kamm pants pictured above. They’re basically an exact copy of Katie’s pants that you see in this post. No shame in my “fancy pants” game. My wardrobe is in dire need of neutrals and hopefully these will fit the bill.

Heather’s Overalls, Sara’s Overalls

Project 2: Tapered Jenny Overalls

I’ll be honest in saying that I wasn’t initially sold on the Jenny Overalls when the pattern first released. I’ve been a fan of overalls since kindergarten so I’m usually the first one to fall in love when it comes to them. My mind was quickly changed when I saw these golden corduroy ones made by Sara. I’ve selected a beautiful heavyweight olive denim from Sewing Studio for them and am just waiting for hardware to arrive before I can get started.

Project 3: High Waisted Emerson Crop Pants

The True Bias Emerson Pants have been on my radar for a while now. The one hang up I had with them was the mid rise. I just don’t love low or mid rise pants on myself. If my pants aren’t high rise, I find myself pulling them up all day long. Last fall, Kelli introduced a high rise version of the Emerson pattern and I felt like jumping for joy. Sure, I could’ve tried to alter the original pattern with a high rise, but the fact that Kelli had already done the work and done it well made me add the pattern to my library. I got the pattern back in October and have spent literally months trying to settle on the perfect fabric. Last week I found the above inspiration photo on Pinterest and finally settled on a black and white Grid Plaid Tencel from StyleMaker Fabrics. These pants will be my true “fancy” pants and I cannot wait to get them started.

These color blocked Palo Jeans by Sarah of Wanderstitched are amazing!

(Stretch Goal) Project 4: Named Palo Jeans

You may remember that I fell head over heels for Breaking the Pattern by Named Clothing. I made the Kaste Dress from the book and already started tracing the Ruska Knot Dress. If I finish my other three pants in a timely manner, I’d love to use some of my leftover denim scraps to stitch up a pair of Palo Jeans. I’m drawn to the slightly edgy look that the color blocking gives these jeans and I think they’d be a welcome addition to my colorful wardrobe.

Week 1 sponsors: True Bias, Itch to Stitch, Named, Cashmerette, Helen’s Closet, Alina Design Co., Anna Allen

Well, there you have it. I want to sew about 20 pairs of pants this month, but 4 is a much more realistic goal for me at the moment. If you want to see more pants that are inspiring me at the moment, check out my Fancy Pants Pinterest board. The other ladies of Sew Fancy Pants have rounded up their inspiration as well so be sure to check out these posts written by Jennifer, Loni, and Katie.

Let’s Sew Fancy Pants!!!

Hello! I’m practically bursting at the seams to finally write this post. Last January, I was lucky enough to team up with a few friends to host an Instagram Coat Making Party (more about that here). A couple of months ago, I was talking to Katie (@katiekortmanart) and discussing a possible collaboration when the idea for a Fancy Pants Instagram Sewing Party came to mind. We teamed up with Loni (@havinsewmuchfun) and Jennifer of (@makerheart) to bring you a January filled with fancy pants, inspiration, giveaways, tips, and of course, dancing. Ready for all the details? Here we go!

What is Sew Fancy Pants?

Inspired by the Sew Frosting Challenge and Katie’s #thehandmadehustle challenge, Sew Fancy Pants is a challenge easily tailored to fit your personal sewing goals. The mission of Sew Fancy Pants is to get members of the sewing community making pants that are their own definition of “fancy” and have a little fun while we’re at it. Everyone’s definition of fancy pants might be different, and that’s ok, we accept all forms of fancy pants. Perhaps one may want a professional looking pair of pants for work, maybe someone wants to dip their toes into the wide leg pants trend, or maybe you simply want a pair of silk pants or velvet joggers. This challenge is for everyone. Each week of January will have a theme, some weeks will have giveaways, ending the month with a Fancy Pants Dance Off and grand prize giveaway. To participate, just sew some “fancy” pants and use the hashtag #sewfancypants on IG. Read to the bottom of this post for information on how to be entered in the grand prize giveaway.

Week 1: Pattern Selection (January 1-6)

First, we’ll focus on what sewing fancy pants means to each of us and share pattern inspiration as well as our personal pattern selections. Joining us as a guest host will be Sara (@thesaraproject_). We’ll have almost daily pattern giveaways so make sure to follow each of us on IG as each giveaway will only be open for 24 hours.

Week 1 Sponsors:

Itch to Stitch

True Bias

Named Clothing

Helen’s Closet

Alina Design Co.

Anna Allen Clothing

Cashmerette

Week 2: Fabric Selection (January 7-13)

This week we’ll be focusing on fabric selections and sharing tips on how to source high quality bottom weight fabrics. Look for posts filled with fabric ideas and maybe even some discount codes. We’ve teamed up with several fabric sponsors to give away gift cards and fabrics perfect for your fancy pants sewing needs. Again, make sure you’re following all four of us on Instagram to stay up to date on these giveaways.

Week 2 Sponsors:

StyleMaker Fabrics

La Mercerie

Harts Fabric

D & H Fabrics Co

Blackbird Fabrics

LA Finch Fabrics

Week 3: Fitting Those Fancy Pants (January 14-20)

This week we’ll focus on fitting our pants. We’ll each share our pants fitting tips and progress. Mac of Sew Altered Style (@macsmakespace on IG) will be guest hosting and joining us to talk about her pants fitting tips and tricks.

Week 4: Fancy Finishing Details (January 21-27)

This week our focus will be adding those special details that make our fancy pants special. Whether its unique buttons, interesting trim, or stylish top stitching, this week will be about the stuff that makes handmade items truly one of a kind. Teri (@teridodds1 on IG) will be guest hosting to chat about the details she’s added to make her pants fancy.

Week 5: THE FANCY PANTS DANCE OFF!!! (January 28-February 3rd)

This week we’re challenging participants to let loose and dance in your newly made fancy pants. When people dance in their fancy pants and post it to their instagram using #sewfancypantsdance and #sewfancypants, they’ll be entered to win a grand prize. Have fun, get creative, and dance those pants off (just not literally off)! The grand prize winner will be chosen by all four judges, as well as two prize packages with winners chosen randomly from all participants.

Grand Prize Package:

$100 Imagine Gnats Gift Card

Blackbird Fabrics Fabric Package (3 cuts of their favorite bottom weights)

$50 Merritt Makes Gift Card

Harts Fabric Gift Card

$25 True Bias Gift Card

$15 Indiesew Gift Card

1 Itch to Stitch PDF Pattern

1 Seamwork Pant Pattern

1 Megan Nielsen PDF Pattern

1 Hey June PDF Pattern

Prize Package #1

2 Yards Winner’s Choice from Threadbare Fabrics

$25 Closet Case Patterns Gift Card

1 Megan Nielsen PDF Pattern

1 Seamwork Pant Pattern

1 Named PDF Pattern

Prize Package #2

D & H Fabrics Pants Kit

$25 LA Finch Gift Card

Deer and Doe Narcisse Pants PDF Pattern

1 Megan Nielsen PDF Pattern

1 Seamwork Pant Pattern

Well, there you have it! We hope you’ll join with us in sewing fancy pants during the month of January. Just tag us in your IG captions and use #sewfancypants to participate. Several of our sponsors will be providing discount codes throughout the month so stay tuned for more information on that and make sure to follow us on Instagram (Nicole, Katie, Loni, Jennifer) to stay up to date on all things “fancy pants.”

Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater

It’s mid-way through December and the holiday season is in full swing around here. I had lofty sewing goals for December that had to be trimmed thanks to a minor, but unexpected hand surgery. Once I found out that surgery was necessary, I decided to drop all sewing plans except the Archer I posted last week. Had surgery just over a week ago and am feeling quite well. Thanks to a clear schedule (in case I wasn’t feeling well) and a nicely replenished fabric stash, I felt like sewing this week. On Monday afternoon I knocked out a bit of Christmas sewing and on Tuesday decided to sew up this Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater for myself. I mashed up the sleeves of View A with the curved hemline of View B to make a perfectly simple oversized sweater. 

Choosing the Fabric

I usually don’t have a large fabric stash for projects sewn on a whim, but I’ve tried to add a few favorites over the last few months. This organic hemp fleece from D & H Fabrics was begging to become a cozy sweater. It’s a mid-weight sweatshirt fleece with 2-way stretch and pillowy soft backside. It’s one of those fabrics that everyone should have in their stash ready and waiting for the next cozy sweatshirt pattern to come along. 


After the release of the Jarrah, I started looking for good ribbing. I usually just use a self fabric for ribbing, but have been inspired by all the matching ribbing I’ve seen lately. One night I was browsing Etsy, when I decided to search sweatshirt ribbing. I looked at several options before finding this black striped ribbing and falling in love. The black, mustard, and grey mixed with gold read as a combination that could be fun without looking childish. Although I found the ribbing on Etsy, Miekkie Fabrics also has a website (here) with a larger selection of fabrics and ribbing. I opted to purchase through Etsy since I had a gift card, but will likely purchase from their site in the future.  (Just a heads up: Miekkie Fabrics is based in Poland so the ribbing took about 3 weeks to arrive in the United States. ) Once the ribbing arrived, I was pleased with it’s weight and quality. My only complaint would be that when I ordered a quantity of 3, my ribbing was sent in 3 90cm pieces instead of one continuous piece. I didn’t ask for it to be continuous, so this was likely user error. Next time I will contact them before and ask if a continuous piece is possible. 

Fitting

Now, let’s take a minute to talk fit. According to the pattern sizing chart, my bust is right between that of a 2 and a 4 with my hip at a 12. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I noted that there was plenty of ease and too much grading up wouldn’t be necessary. Quickly, I settled on using a 4 at the bust and grading to a 6 at the hips. My only other adjustment was the regular length adjustment. I added 1.25″ to the sleeves and 1.5″ to the front and back pieces. Overall, I’m rather pleased with the fit although as a personal preference I could’ve added another .5″ to the sleeve length. 

Construction

Besides finishing a garment, sewing one up is my favorite part and there’s nothing that satisfies the need to sew like a quick and easy sweater. My son attends Kindergarten in the afternoon and this occasionally gives me two free hours to clean, grocery shop, or sew (I usually choose sewing). On Tuesday morning I assembled the pattern and cut my fabric. After dropping my son off at school, I grabbed my favorite drink (A Starbucks Caramel Apple Spice), put a movie on Netflix, and began sewing. Construction went quickly without any major mistakes and I was able to finish the entire sweater before heading back out the door to pick up my son. 

Overall, the outcome of my Tuesday afternoon sewing was successful. I satisfied the my need to sew, gained a cozy sweatshirt, and began a love affair with sweatshirt ribbing (Seriously, send me all your favorite sources for fabric with matching ribbing because I want to use it in every future sweatshirt). Next, I plan to find a good pink sweatshirt fleece to make a Jarrah in the knot front View C since I already have another striped ready for that project. What are you making for the holidays? Are you sewing for others or getting in some good selfish sewing as I did here?

Thanks for reading!

Want to see more projects I’ve made with fabrics from D&H Fabrics? Check out my Kaste Dress or Mila Shirt.

Ready for more winter sewing projects? Read about my Gemma Sweater, Clare Coat, or Toaster Sweater.

Ikat Archer Button Up

Hello! I can hardly believe that December is upon us. Somehow I’m feeling baffled that this last year has flown so quickly and simultaneously feeling that it lasted forever. Time is weird. Let’s get back to the reason you’re here. My latest make is one of which I’m quite proud. This Archer Button Up made with an Ikat from Merritt Makes is one of those projects that reminded me “practice makes (almost) perfect.” 

First, Fabric.

Merritt Makes is an online fabric shop run by a mother/daughter team. As someone who spent five years working in a shop run by a mother/daughter team, I have a soft spot for mother/daughter run businesses. About a month ago, I was browsing their website and couldn’t stop planning projects. You know the fabric is good when one look at the website results in the planning of an entire seasonal wardrobe. After emailing back and forth with Merritt, she helped me settle on making an Archer in this delicious Ivory Ikat fabric.

This woven ikat fabric is lightweight 100% cotton. The weave is slightly looser than a quilting cotton, but still tight enough to make handling it easier than a rayon challis. The hand feels similar to a gauze which makes wearing this fabric both breathable and comfortable. Pressing it was a dream which made it ideal for the crisp structure of a button up. Working with this fabric felt luxurious and I found myself taking extra care with each step.

Next, Construction.

As mentioned above, my love for this ikat fabric led me to take extra care during the construction of this top. Due to the slightly looser weave of the fabric, I chose to finish all the exposed seams with french seams instead of a serged edge. I then used two lines to top stitched the french seams so they would lay flat. This meant that each of the exposed seams was sewn a total four times. It took extra time, but the end result is a garment that looks just as neat on the inside as it does on the outside. I want this shirt to last and decided the best way to ensure that would be to take my time on its construction. 

I’m no stranger to button-up shirts, in fact, I’ve made my son at least 12-15 over the last several years. This was my fourth Archer Button Up, but the first using view B and with a standard collar instead of a mandarin collar. The last Archer I made was made in the summer of 2016, so coming back to this pattern felt a little like visiting an old friend. I came back to it with fondness as well as wisdom gained from an abundance of sewing over the years. As with anything I’ve made, there are slight imperfections here and there. However, this top is the best I’ve ever sewn a button up and that realization feels pretty darn good.

I was proud of where I was skill-wise 2.5 years ago when I made my last Archer, and now I’m proud of the progress I’ve seen since then. There have been countless times over the last few years when I’ve thrown a project across the room in frustration, muttered a few choice words, and felt like giving up. Finishing things like this Archer makes me thankful that I didn’t. I still have a ridiculous amount of room for improvement in my sewing, but this project reminded me that improvement happens when we just keep trying. Sometimes it happens more slowly than we’d like, but it does happen.

Despite being pleased with my construction here, it didn’t come without mishaps. Due to the yarn-dyed woven nature of this ikat, there isn’t a definitive right or wrong side to the fabric. In a lot of ways, this is great. Unfortunately, I forgot to double check that I was sewing the correct sides of the fabric together when attaching the sleeves. I didn’t notice my mistake until I had french seamed and top stitched both the sleeves and side seams. As a result, my continuous sleeve placket that should’ve been turned to the inside, was now turned to the outside. My late-night sewing brain determined there were only two options: leave the plackets on the outside and call it a design feature or rip out 24 lines of stitching to reattach the sleeves with the actual right side out. In frustration, I decided to call it a night and come back to my sewing in the morning. Nothing clears your head like a good night’s rest and the next morning I realized there was a third option that would fix my problem in just a few minutes with only one small seam to rip out. All I had to do was unpick a 3/8″ long diagonal seam holding the top of the placket together (for reference see this Archer sewalong post). I then flipped the placket to the new wrong side, re-stitched the diagonal seam, and all was well.

Finally, Fitting.

According to the Archer measurement chart, my bust put me in a size 4 with my hip measurement right between an 8 and a 10. After looking at the finished measurement chart, I decided to go for a straight size 4. In retrospect, I likely should’ve graded to an 8 at the hips for a straighter fit. My only real adjustments to the pattern were adding length. I added 1″ in length to bodice and 1/2″ in length to the sleeves. Overall, I’m pleased with the fit of this top. It gives me full range of motion while the semi-fitted nature of it keeps me from looking as if I just rolled out of bed and grabbed my husband’s shirt. 

Thanks for reading! If you need me, I’ll be cozied up in my Archer and a chunky cardigan for the foreseeable future. Be sure to check out Merritt Makes on IG or at their website. I can almost guarantee that you’ll be as tempted as I am to make an entire seasonal wardrobe with their lovely stock. 

True Bias Salida Skirt

Hello! Today I’m thankful that I can finally show you my test version of the newest True Bias pattern, the Salida Skirt. The hardest part about pattern testing is always waiting to share my finished make. This skirt is no exception. The Salida includes two views. View A is fitted to the knee and View B is fitted through the hips and mid-calf length. During the test, I made View A, but have been dreaming of View B ever since. 

If you’ve read my Justine skirt post, you may remember that I actually don’t own or wear many skirts. When I found out Kelli’s newest pattern would be a skirt, I was initially hesitant. I did, however, decide to take a leap of faith and I’m exceptionally glad I did. The line drawings really sold me on this pattern. It’s hard to photograph and see in black, but the style lines on this pattern are ace. The front and back both include a v-shaped yoke with center and side panels. Coupled  those with slash pockets that are a surprisingly decent size and you’ve got a winning combination. 

Let’s take a quick minute to talk about this fabric. I used a Black Micro Wale Corduroy from Style Maker Fabrics. When I purchased this fabric last January, I planned to use it for a Lander Pant overall hack that never came to fruition. I cut everything out and then lost steam. Thankfully, the paneling of this skirt makes it easy to cut out of scraps and odd shaped pieces of fabric. It feels fitting that although this corduroy didn’t become a pair of Lander Pants, it found a way to become another True Bias pattern. The softness and structure of the corduroy turned out to be just what this skirt needs. In fact, I think Kelli used the same fabric in a different color for one of the pattern cover samples. 

Over the last few years, I’ve grown to love top stitching seams which made  sewing this skirt all the more enjoyable. The panels and yoke seams are all top stitched; a detail I wish showed up better in this version. Despite the decent amount of top stitching, the Salida came together rather quickly. I sewed it up over the course of 2 or 3 evenings without having to pull any crazy late nights. The zipper insertion is the only area where I made a mistake (zip fly is on the wrong side), but even that wasn’t noticeable or really simple to change so I decided to call it a “design choice.”

Let’s move on to discussing fit. My waist and hip measurements put me right in between a size 10 and 12 on the size chart. Based on this, I made the decision to cut a size 12 and adjust from there. After basting the front and back skirt pieces together, I ended up removing about 3/8″ from each of the outer side seams. This is an adjustment likely due to the fact that I was between sizes, not an issue with the pattern sizing. The only other adjustment I made was to add 3″ to the length above where the back slit begins. In retrospect, I probably only needed to add 2″, I was just nervous about the slit beginning right below my bottom (perils of sewing tall). With those simple adjustments, the fit is pretty close to perfect. 

After not wearing them for so long, I’m still getting used to styling a skirt. Luckily I think I found the perfect formula in pairing this corduroy Salida Skirt with a favorite striped Lark Tee, the ever-versatile Hampton Jean Jacket , and a pair of booties. Now I just need to find a good pair of tights and I’ll be set for the cold months ahead. Wearing my skirt styled this way gives me hope that I may once again add skirts to my regular wardrobe rotation. 

Thanks for reading! 

Want to see more of my True Bias Patterns makes? Check out my Lander Pant, Roscoe Blouse, or Yari Jumpsuit posts.

Kaste Dress from Breaking the Pattern Book

HAPPY MONDAY! Shouting this from the rooftops because this is a make that makes me want to scream “SEWING IS THE FREAKING BEST!” Today I’m part of the D & H Fabrics Blog Tour. You can check out more about this dress and this luxurious Tencel Twill I used on their blog by clicking this link. Below I’m going to discuss the Named Clothing Breaking the Pattern book and the process of fitting this dress. 

The moment the ladies of Named Clothing announced that they were writing a book, I knew it would become part of my sewing library. I’ve made a few Named patterns and am an admirer of their unique, modern style. My pre-order copy of the book arrived this last Tuesday and it does NOT disappoint. It begins with a beginner-friendly bag and ends with a lined coat. There are dresses, skirts, tops, and pants with options to mix and match some patterns for seemingly endless possibilities. The Kaste Dress with butterfly sleeves caught my eye and the rest is history.

Muslin and Initial Fitting

Since I had a limited amount of fabric and not enough time to order more in case of a fitting emergency, I opted to make a muslin first. This is a rarity for me, but you know that I’m really serious about something if I start making a muslin. The last time I made a muslin was for these bold pants I completed in September. Also because of limited time, I decided to use my Pellon 830 Easy Pattern as my muslin “fabric.” Once I traced the pattern pieces onto the Easy Pattern, I simply cut out the required number of pieces. Then, following the pattern instructions, I quickly basted the darts and pattern pieces together. This resulted in a lovely 3D paper-like version of the dress that I could very carefully try on to assess fit. Since fitting the butterfly sleeve portion wasn’t necessary, I didn’t worry about that piece. The photo below shows what my muslin looked like. There are no photos of it on me because it’s a bit sheer. 

Initial fit adjustments:

  • Started with a size 3 at bust graded to a 4 at waist and a 5 at hips
  • Added 1/2″ to front and back bodice length just below bust line.
  • Added 1 1/2″ to length at hips. 

To my delight, The muslin fit was nearly perfect. I knew there would be other necessary adjustments with my final fabric, but the muslin gave me a good idea of where the darts would fit and if any changes would be necessary in that area. With the fit somewhat sorted, I cut out my main fabric. 

Sewing the Dress

Due to time constraints, deadlines, and an unexpectedly hectic week, I had one day to sew up this dress before meeting up with Sara for photographs. For the record, I don’t recommend sewing this dress in a day. I did not get more than a few hours of sleep. I made one mistake where I thought I was smarter than the instructions and inserted the zipper before attaching the facings. Spoiler alert: I am, in fact, not smarter than the instructions. By the I noticed my mistake, I had the dress nearly finished with the exception of the side seams and hem. I did not have time to correct this by ripping out the zipper and going back several steps. Instead, I used the method described in this video to attach the facing to the armholes. It worked, but next time, I’ll just follow the pattern instructions. 

My favorite part of the construction process was sewing the diagonal seams and contour darts. It’s been quite some time since I last sewed a contour dart and I’ve never sewn one that overlaps a seam line. Each step felt like putting together an elaborate puzzle. That end result though? 100% worth it. 

The dress was nearly finished, when I noticed that my serger needles were getting dull and starting to snag the fabric. Unfortunately, it was late at night and the allen wrench required to change the needles was nowhere to be found. I basted the hem in place and called it good until I could buy a new allen wrench . In case you were wondering, That’s on today’s agenda. Headed to the store for the correct sized wrench and properly finishing the last few seams in my dress. Fixing this properly ASAP so I can get lots of wear out of this baby. Just your friendly reminder that sewing isn’t always sunshine and rainbows, but I could probably benefit from a little more organization. 

Final Fit Adjustments

Once the dress was sewn up, I noticed some excess fabric in the mid-hip area and towards the hem. Starting at the upper hip, I slowly tapered the seam allowance to remove excess. At the lower hip, I took in the side seam by 1/4″, by mid-thigh, the side seam was taken in by 1/2″ and, by the hem it was taken in by almost 1″. This achieved a fitted, but unrestrictive skirt. I wanted to avoid the “so tight I can’t sit down” dilemma that sometimes happens when I wear woven bottoms that are too tight. With these final adjustments, my dress was complete.

Final Thoughts

I’m thrilled to have taken the time to sew a little bit of frosting. My sewing as of late has leaned heavily towards basics and getting out of that headspace for a moment was exhilarating. Honestly, I don’t have a lot of places to wear a dress like this, but it felt good and isn’t that sometimes the point of a hobby? Wearing it makes me feel special which is also a fantastic bonus. Feeling especially thankful for the opportunity to participate in the  D & H Fabrics blog tour as it pushed me creatively and brought me this gem of a dress. I’m also feeling inspired by this new book and trying to eke out all the time I can to stitch of a few more of its projects. 

Thanks for reading! Be sure to follow the tour happening all this week on the D & H Fabrics blog.

Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees, Gemma Dress, or Gemma Sweater

Interested to see other things I’ve made with D & H Fabrics? Read about my rayon Mila Shirt

Coffee and Thread Lana Color-block Hack

Hello! Today I’m happy to be part of the Coffee and Thread Lana Tour. The Lana pattern (grab it here) comes with a ruffle sleeve and top or dress options. At the request of many tour participants, Olga has also added a long sleeve option. Winter is quickly approaching here in Utah and since I’m always freezing, sewing a long sleeved version was a no-brainer.

I hemmed and hawed over fabric choice for weeks. My indecision was made worse by the fact that I felt conflicted over buying new fabric. With the holidays approaching, I’m trying to save some of my fabric budget for gifts. Indecisiveness turned out to be a good thing in this situation because I realized last Friday that it was too late to be ordering fabric and  would have to come up with something from my stash. Upon opening my bin of large knit scraps I found navy, burgundy, and oatmeal french terry (all from Raspberry Creek Fabrics). Jackpot! One problem: I had about 3/4 yard of the navy, 1/2 yard of the oatmeal, and 1/4 yard of the burgundy. There wasn’t enough of any of them for the entire top.

This turned out to be one of those “make it work” moments that made me thankful for Pinterest. I searched “color-block long sleeve top” and came across this pin of an Abercrombie top that immediately won my vote. Recreating it seemed simple enough so I laid out my fabric and got to work. Ready to make your own? Let’s do this!

Preparing the bodice:

  1. Cut a straight line across the front and back bodice pieces 3/8″ below the armscye. Add a 3/8″ seam allowance to the bottom of the bodice top and the top of the bodice bottom.

(FYI: I didn’t actually add the seam allowance to the pattern pieces. Instead I threw caution to the wind and just eyeballed cutting an extra 3/8″ where the new seam allowances should be added.)

Now, let’s prepare the sleeves:

2. Cut a straight line across the sleeve about 2.5 inches below the sleeve top. Now your sleeve is in two pieces. Add seam allowances (as directed in bodice instructions) and set the upper sleeve piece aside.

3. At 4.5 inches below the top of your lower sleeve piece, cut another straight line. Add seam allowances.

4. If you want to add cuffs, straighten out the bottom of the sleeve piece that is angled in and out for the hem. Here your just omitting small bit that angles in from the bottom of the sleeve. just cut straight down instead. 

5. Cut two cuffs. My cuffs were approximately ( 7″ x 5.5″) for a size six.

That’s it. Now we’re ready to sew. 

Assemble color-blocked pieces:

6. Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, stitch the front bodice top and front bodice bottom right sides together along the line you cut in step 1. Repeat for back bodice pieces. 

7. Again, using a 3/8″ seam allowance, stitch the top sleeve piece to the the middle sleeve piece along the line you cut in step 2.

8. Use a 3/8″ seam allowance to stitch the bottom of your middle sleeve piece to the top of your lower sleeve piece along the line you cut in step 3.

Finishing your color-block Lana:

9. Assemble top according to pattern instructions. If not adding cuffs, hem sleeves. 

10. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitch cuff to itself along short edge. Repeat for second cuff. 

11. Fold cuff in half and attach to sleeve using a 3/8″ seam allowance. If you’ve never attached a cuff, check out this post for some photos and more detailed instructions. 

You’ve done it! Put on your cozy new Lana and enjoy!

I’ll leave you with a few notes on sizing for this specific top and what I’d do differently if I made this again. First, the inspiration picture shows a slouchier look than the one I’ve achieved here. I was between a 4 and a 6 in sizing and opted for a 6. Next time, I’d try an 8 or even a 10 for a true slouchy fit. I did end up adding 1 inch to the bodice length and think it turned out just right. Second, due to fabric restraints, I ended up adding a seam down the center of the lower bodice back. It’s not too noticeable, but next time I’ll make sure I have enough fabric to avoid this. 

Overall, I’m happy with the outcome of this top and see it being worn regularly throughout the coming months. The french terry is just warm enough to be comfortable for winter layering without the worry of overheating once I’m back inside a heated space. It was a quick, satisfying sew that made me feel good about using up some decent scraps. Since I usually use knit scraps for baby sewing, finding a way to use them for myself was quite rewarding. 

Thanks for reading! I’ll be back real soon with new makes and projects that have me feeling all the excitement. 

The Free Justine Skirt by Ready to Sew

Happy Fall! I know October is nearly over and leaves have been falling for over a month now, but fall has finally come to my yard. Did you catch my last post about my Named Gemma Sweatshirt? Those photos were taking just two weeks ago and the trees were still a lush green. Now reds, yellows, and oranges have taken over the backyard. After years of apartment living, it’s a bit surreal to look out the windows and suddenly realize that these big, beautiful trees are part of our yard and it’s time we buy a rake. During our house hunt, mature trees were one of the reasons I resisted the idea of a new build. The shade in the summer is ace and these beautiful fall colors are another bonus (although, let’s see how I really feel when I’m finished raking everything).

Ok, enough about trees, let’s get down to business and talk about why you’re really here. This skirt: the FREE Justine by Ready to Sew. Until making this skirt, I hadn’t worn a skirt in nearly a year. I fell out of love with the ones I owned and just wasn’t feeling inspired by skirts. Cue the release of Justine in June. I was immediately drawn to the large patch pockets, midi-length, and button front. Hello effortless skirt of my dreams. Add to that the fact that the pattern was free and trying it out became a no-brainer. I immediately bookmarked the pattern and not so patiently waited until I was no longer knee deep in painting and packing. When we finally moved into our home during the last week of July, I downloaded and printed the pattern before I had even unpacked my kitchen. 

Sewing up this skirt turned out to be a great way to revive my sew-jo after a busy summer. There are only four pattern pieces in the pattern which made it easy to knock out the pattern assembly and cutting in less than an hour. A few days later, I spent an afternoon sewing and finished all but the buttons. Then, I spent a lovely evening watching Netflix and hand-sewing each button. The instructions were straightforward and, combined with my fabric choice, made for a fuss-free sewing experience. 

Let’s talk about fabric choice for a quick minute. My textile of choice is this woven stripe in a cotton/linen blend. I purchased it from Suppose, my favorite hidden gem and a place I called a second home for five years. It’s got a great weight to it, heavier than a quilting cotton, but lighter than a true canvas. The weight makes it a skirt that can easily transition through the seasons. I wore it with sandals and a tee in the heat and can see it looking just as lovely paired with tights and booties.

I had originally flagged this fabric for a pair of Burnside Bibs (see what I actually used for my bibs here) that never came to fruition.  Once I’d printed this pattern and saw this stripe sitting in my stash it felt fated. Working with this stable fabric is incredibly easy and something I would certainly recommend to a beginner. The only drawback to the fabric (thanks to its natural fibers) is that it’s somewhat prone to wrinkles. I’m personally a fan of linen and have learned to embrace the wrinkles that come along with it. 

Can we pause for a moment and just admire these pockets? One of the reasons I love sewing is the aspect of customization that can be added to each piece. If a pattern doesn’t include pockets, I will often add them. With few exceptions, I truly believe that skirts and dresses should always include pockets. I don’t love carrying a bag everywhere and pockets allow me to forego one from time to time. One issue that I sometimes have with patterns are that the pockets are sometimes too small to be useful. Not so with Justine. The included pockets are large enough to fit my entire hand which means they easily fit my keys, wallet, and phone. The folded flap detail is a unique design choice that I’ve come to love. Occasionally I’ll attach a favorite enamel pin to the flap for added flair. 

We’ve talked assembly, fabric, and pockets so I’ll leave you with a note on sizing. My waist and hip measurement put me right at a size 42. I cut a straight 42 with 2 inches added to the length. The full 2 inches of length wasn’t necessary and I ended up taking off 1 of those inches. I didn’t make any other modifications and felt the fit was spot on. 

In summary, the Justine has made me a skirt convert. It’s easy to wear, neutral enough to wear with my wild closet, coupled with just enough detail to keep it interesting. I think you’ll be seeing lots of this baby in my wardrobe. Currently pondering a corduroy version for winter. Should I try it? 

Have I convinced you to try the pattern? If so, head over and download it here.

Want to see more of what I’ve made using Ready to Sew patterns? Check out my Jumpy pants here.

Interested to read more about the shirt I’m wearing in these photos? Read about my Willamette Shirt here.

Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans in Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Hello! Today I’m sharing my latest outfit made from fabrics available online through Raspberry Creek Fabrics. You may have noticed by now that I’m a bit of a fabric collector and have several online fabric stores from which I regularly purchase. Raspberry Creek has a great selection of designer fabrics along with their in-house printed CLUB line. I was introduced to RCF in the summer of 2017 and just recently moved closer so that picking up my online orders could be even easier. Ok, so maybe that’s not actually why I moved to a new area, but it’s a nice perk. 

I’ve wanted to make the Named Clothing Gemma Sweater since it was released last fall. Instead, I made the dress version first (see that here), and put away the idea of a sweater for a while. It’s been in the back of my mind since, just waiting for the perfect fabric combination to come along. I wanted something with enough stretch to be comfortable, but the  correct weight and structure to really showcase the shape and style lines of the pattern. About a month ago, I was browsing Raspberry Creek Fabrics when I came across the solid ponte and knew I’d found my Gemma fabric. I chose the olive (sold out, but soon to be restocked) and charcoal for a combination that I’ve dubbed my Slytherin sweatshirt. 

A couple of years ago, I had some time to waste and decided to take the sorting quiz on Pottermore. I was perplexed when I found myself sorted into Slytherin. At first I felt almost ashamed by this because I don’t necessarily think of myself as the Tom Riddle or Draco Malfoy type. Like any millenial, I took a couple of minutes to have a mini identity crisis. Quickly, I remembered that the sorting hat allowed Harry to choose his house. In my situation (where none of this actually mattered because my life isn’t a fictional story), I decided that this means we get to choose which traits we want to embody.  loyalty and ambition aren’t bad traits and they are something I try to cultivate so maybe I can be a proud Slytherin after all. 

Ok, enough about my Hogwarts identity crisis. Let’s get back to talking about this sweater. Based on my measurements, I decided to cut and sew a size 38 (US 6). The only alteration made was to add 1″ to the length of the body and the sleeves.

I traced the pattern and cut the fabric in one afternooon, sewing it up the following afternoon. After a series of involved sewing projects, it felt liberating to start and finish something so quickly. This was my first experience sewing ponte fabric and it was much easier than expected. Despite a decent stretch percentage, it’s stable enough to sew easily without some of the headache that comes with sewing a lighter knit such as a cotton or rayon lycra. Overall, I’m so pleased with this sweater and enjoyed the process so fully that I’m considering buying a couple more colors of the RCF ponte and making matching sweaters for my sisters. 

Finally, let’s talk about these Ginger Jeans. This is my third pair of jeans and I made all the same alterations that I made to the first two (read about my sizing and alterations in this post). I’ve wanted a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans since before I dared tackle sewing a pair. In fact, one of my excuses to put off sewing jeans for so long was the difficulty in sourcing the “perfect” denim. Back in September, I unfortunately ended up  pulling an all-nighter while attempting to launch this new site. The next day, Diana posted in the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Facebook Group that Cone Mills denim had just been added to the site. In my sleep-deprived mind, I easily justified purchasing 3 yards of this tencel stretch denim. Patting my tired self on the back for this one because these black denim Gingers are dreamy. 

Just as anything handmade, there are a few imperfections and I can’t quite say that there’s absolutely nothing I’d change fit-wise (there are a few more wrinkles below the rear than I’d like), but all of my Gingers fit me 10x better than ready to wear jeans ever have and I’ve enjoyed immersing myself in the construction process each time. Jeans and pants have quickly become some of my most enjoyable and rewarding items, so if you’re on the fence about making some, what are you waiting for? Grab some Cone Mills denim and get to it. 

If you’ve made it here to the bottom, Thanks for reading. My favorite part of writing a post is finally having my items photographed so they can be added to my regular closet rotation. These two pieces are sure to get their fair share of wear as the temperatures drop over the next several months. What are you wearing/sewing for fall and winter? 

Want more Raspberry Creek Fabrics Inspiration? Check out my french terry loungewear set.  Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees or Gemma Dress

Full disclosure: The fabric for my sweater was provided to me, but all opinions are my own.