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Ace and Jig Inspired Zadie Jumpsuit

Oooooookay, get ready for a photo overload because this Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit is the most “me” thing I’ve ever made and I’m in love. I mean, the woman in these photos is who I am (style-wise) in my dreams. Just a jumpsuit wearing, hat sporting, smiling woman casually strolling through the great outdoors. Forgive me if I can’t adequately communicate my feelings in this post. Hopefully the photos will fill in where my words fail.

Inspiration

Ace and Jig is a company that’s inspiring not only for their designs, and unique fabrics but also for their core values. I’m sure they’re already on your radar, but if not, check them out. While I adore the company, I know I’m not alone in saying that I just don’t have upwards of $300 to spend on one item of clothing that may or may not fit my unique body type. Considering my height of 5’10” and hips that are 3-4 sizes larger than my bust, a well-fitting ready-to-wear jumpsuit is something I’ve never found. Last year when browsing Pinterest, I came across this Ace and Jig Wrap Jumper and knew it was something I wanted to recreate for my wardrobe. The comparison below illustrates how differences between these two jumpsuits give them a similar vibe while still maintaining their own unique features. We’ll call them jumpsuit cousins.

Inspiration image found here

Fabric

It’s no secret that I’m a bit of an Anna Maria Horner superfan (just click the Anna Maria Horner tag at the bottom of this post and you’ll see what I mean). While I’ve pretty much never met an AMH fabric I didn’t like, her Loominous and Loominous II lines will forever be favorites. Both lines consist of multiple patterns made with 100% cotton yarn-dyed woven fabric. Green is my preferred color and I love the dimension the mustard and teal dots add to the forest green background. In order to make this jumpsuit, I purchased 5 yards of Slightly in Forest from Flying Bulldogs on Etsy. That amount turned out to be plenty and when all was said and done, I had about 1 yard left over. Now, what should I do with that extra yard?

Sizing and Alterations

This version is my second Zadie Jumpsuit after making a wearable muslin from a rayon poplin. My first version included all my regular alterations and kept the wide legs as drafted. I made a few changes to this second version so let’s get to it.

As far as sizing for this version goes, I chose a size 8 at the chest and graded to a 12 at the hips and below. I added 1/2″ of length to the bodice and 4 inches of length to the legs. Next time I’ll likely add an extra inch for a total of 5 inches added to the legs.

To achieve my desired look, I also tapered the the legs. Starting just below the crotch curve, I slightly angled each side seam until I’d taken them in by 2 and 5/8″ on each side of both the front and back pieces (that’s a total of 10 and 1/2″ taken out of each leg at the bottom near the hem).

Construction

The only closure on the Zadie Jumpsuit is the tie front, making construction quick and mostly painless. This was sewn in small increments over about three days’ time. The only difficulty I encountered were a few spots on my bias binding where I didn’t quite catch the back side. I simply fixed those two areas (each shorter than an inch) and didn’t even bother unpicking the first set of stitches because they’re hardly noticeable. If someone is getting that close to my chest, an extra row of stitching will be the least of their worries.

My only change to the construction was in the hem finishing. The pattern instructs that the sleeve hems are just turned in 1cm which would leave a raw or exposed serged edge on the inside of the hems. Instead I chose to turn the hems inside by 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ so the serged sleeve edges are completely enclosed. This is simply personal preference, not a necessity. I just thought it provided a more professional looking finish.

Conclusions

The Zadie Fever is a sewing community phenomenon for good reason. Both of my versions are the most comfortable woven jumpsuits in my decent sized jumpsuit collection. The pattern is a quick, simple sew with big impact results. If I make this pattern again, I may try to convert the pleats in the back bodice and back pant into darts. I’m not in love with the bulk of the pleats but, it’s not a deal breaker for me either. These jumpsuits will no doubt be worn to death over the summer months. I’m also looking forward to working them into my wardrobe year-round. With those thoughts, I’ll conclude today’s jumpsuit lovefest. Now, I’m off to work on my next project which also includes AMH Loominous fabric and inspiration from Ace and Jig. See you Monday with the details.

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Sew Liberated Arenite Pants with Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Disclosure: The fabric used for my pants was provided to me by Raspberry Creek Fabrics. All opinions expressed here are my own.

Two blog posts in two days? Who even am I? The truth is I’m trying to squeeze in every bit of work in before my son starts summer break tomorrow. It’s been such a blessing this last school year to have a couple of hours (kindergarten is only half day here) to myself to sew and work in the middle of the day instead of late at night. It’s allowed me to connect and collaborate more without completely burning out. I don’t know what the summer holds but, hopefully I’ll still find some time to be active around these parts. Speaking of summer break, my wardrobe was in serious need of pants that don’t look like pajamas, coordinate with almost anything, AND keep me cool even when I decide to cover my unshaven legs. Enter my latest make…the Arenite Pants by Sew Liberated (I purchased my pattern through Indiesew here). Ready for all the details? Let’s do this.

Fabric

After a bit of internal debate and some time spent scouring the Raspberry Creek Fabrics website, I knew what I had to do. Is there anything that screams summer more than a good pair of linen pants? The sewist in me says “No.” For this pair I selected the Brussels Washer Linen in Leather Brown. I would characterize the actual color of this as a golden brown or toasted marshmallow, if you will. If you’re unfamiliar with the Brussels Washer Linen, it’s a lightweight rayon/linen blend. Most of the colors (check out all the colors RCF has available here), including this one, are made with two different color threads woven together which give extra dimension to the look of the fabric. It’s weight feels breezy and cool while still having just enough substance to be opaque (kind of important for pants). After the first wash it gains a perfect crinkly texture and is less scratchy than most 100% linens. Fabric spiel over. Let’s talk about this pattern.

Pattern, Sizing, and Alterations

The Arenite Pants as drafted are a bit oversized with huge slouchy pockets. I love the original design but personally don’t love too much extra bulk around my hips. Several ladies in the sewing community have been slimming down the pattern pieces and hacking them to resemble the Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Pants. THIS was a look I could get behind. Thankfully, I didn’t have to do too much in the thinking department because Meg of Sew Liberated has added the slim leg hack instructions in her Instagram highlights (find the instructions on her IG profile here).

These are the tired eyes of a mom who has been sick for a week hence, the sunglasses in most of the other photos.

I followed Meg’s hack instructions almost to the letter and it worked a treat. As per her instructions, I sized down 3 sizes (from a 12 to a 6), removed width from the side panels and pocket linings, and added length back in where needed. I made a slight deviation in adding 1.5″ to the top of the front pant, back pant, and pocket panel pieces. This raised the waist of the pants so it fits centered over my belly button and perfectly high-waisted. Long gone are my days of low-rise pants. To account for my height, I also added 1.5″ to the length at the lengthen/shorten line. I’m thrilled with the overall fit of this pair although I may opt to slim the calves just a touch more on my next pair.

Construction

I’ll admit that unless I’m unfamiliar with a technique or testing a pattern, I rarely follow instructions. For ease of construction, I opted to skip the flat fell seams and instead simply serge the raw edges and topstitch all seams down. I intended this pair to be an ace wearable muslin and didn’t want to spend twice as long making the pants if they ended up not fitting correctly. If I do use a rayon challis or tencel, I may try flat felling those seams for security. Since I didn’t flat fell the seams, these pants came together in about 3 hours. It was easy and relatively fuss-free. Perfect for a pair of pants that I plan to make again and again.

Final Thoughts

I’m currently sitting in bed still wearing my Arenite Pants. The comfort level is extreme. In fact, I could very likely sleep in these. My only qualm about the entire making process is that I definitely should’ve chosen to get 2.5 yards instead of the 2 I had. It took an epic pattern tetris battle and waistband pieced from scraps but, I made it work. The remaining fabric scraps fit in one hand. Next time I’ll save myself a bit of trouble and just order a bit more fabric.

Other than shorting myself on fabric, the process was seamless and I’m pleased with the finished product. The only slight changes I plan to make in my next pair will be slightly slimming the ankles and raising the top of the pockets by about 1 inch. I love this pair and have full faith that with the next pair I can achieve summer pant perfection.

Curious about the shirt I’m wearing here? It’s one of my tester versions of the Perkins Shirt made in a Black and White Stripe Rayon Challis that I purchased last year from Raspberry Creek. Read more about it here.

Thanks for reading!

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Marilla Walker Isca Shirt with Indy Bindy

Disclosure: The fabric and pattern used in this post were provided to me but, all opinions are honest and my own.

Hello! I think I’m officially at the stage in life where everything feels like a whirlwind. May has been wild. Between family celebrations, Mother’s Day, our wedding anniversary, learning to care for our yard, and a week spent sick in bed, this month disappeared in the blink of an eye. My son’s last day of kindergarten is Friday and I can hardly believe it. How did I become the mother of a school-aged child? Ok, enough lamenting about the quick passage of time. Let’s get to talking about this shirt and especially THIS FABRIC!

FABRIC!!!!

Used an excessive amount of exclamation in that header because these fabrics deserve it. These prints from Indy Bindy Co. are designed by Manri Kishimoto of the Mannine brand and from the ‘Adorable’ themed line. They’re the Sakura Green and Sakura Owl prints which are not yet available on the site (will update links when they are) because they’re being released first to newsletter subscribers (sign up at the bottom of the page here). The fabric is 100% cotton and feels not quite as thin as a lawn but smoother than a quilting cotton. Practically perfect for semi structured tops and dresses. The entire collection is filled with bright colors and quirky characters but I just couldn’t resist using these two coordinates. The print and colors are an unexpected combination that feels worthy of a runway or Anthropologie window display (thinking of you here Katie Kortman).

Pattern

I’ve been eyeing the angled front details of the Isca Shirt Dress by Marilla Walker (the shirt version is a free add on to be used with the dress pattern) since its release, anxiously awaiting the perfect color blocking opportunity. Other pattern features include back contour darts, a curved hem, and 3/4 sleeves (which I opted to make shorter). There are just enough details to make the shirt feel special without going overboard.

Construction

I took my time sewing this shirt and sewed it up in small increments of time over about a week. There are a decent amount of steps, but nothing too complicated for an intermediate sewist. The directions called for lapped seams, but I opted to sew standard straight seams and serge the edges instead. I did, however, use french seams on the sides. I made a slight deviation from the instructions and decided to sew the shoulder reinforcement pieces to the outside (instead of the inside as instructed) for an added contrast detail.

Perhaps my favorite part of the assembly was the collar construction. I’ve inserted somewhere near forty collars over the last five years and never come upon the method used in this pattern. Don’t get me wrong, this method was new to me so the collar is far from perfect. Trying something new was intriguing and I think I’m going to practice this same method next time I construct a shirt collar.

Sizing and Alterations

According to the measurement chart included in the Isca pattern, my bust size was a 3, waist between a 4 and 5, with size 5 hips. Grading between sized was a breeze. I did, however, keep the back darts a straight size 3. I added 1″ to the bodice length and cut the short sleeves at the lengthen/shorten line. With these minor adjustments, the fit is probably the closest to perfect I’ve achieved yet. There are a few small drag lines around the arms that I could probably stand to do something about. Overall, I’m pleased with the fit and don’t know if fixing those lines would be worth the trouble.

Final Thoughts

This shirt feels like one of those pieces I’ll put on whenever I need an extra boost of confidence or a great conversation starter. In fact, I liked it so much that I used my scraps to make my son a coordinating Oliver and S Sketchbook Shirt. Now I think we might have to start our own Indy Bindy bowling team. I also experimented a bit with the styling and think my favorite way to style this is tied in front and paired with Persephone Pants. I contemplated just making a cropped shirt but, kept it long so it will have versatility and become a staple for years to come.

We certainly look like we could bowl away the competition, right?

Now that you’ve made it this far, I’ll leave you with a couple bloopers. Trying to figure out new poses and, well, it’s not going quite as I hoped but makes for a good laugh.

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Helen’s Closet York Pinafore

Hello! The last few weeks have been a whirlwind and, although I’ve been sewing, I haven’t had much time to document it. I fully intended to sew up a York Pinafore during Sew Bibs in March until other sewing plans got in the way. One month late, the Helen’s Closet York Pinafore is finished.

Fabric

Mmm…This fabric. In early March, I took a little day trip to my favorite local-ish fabric store, Suppose. It’s one of those beautifully overwhelming places where the project possibilities feel endless. I often spend over an hour browsing and dreaming up ideas (much to my son’s dismay) until reminding myself that my sewing time nor my wallet size are unlimited. This time I was smitten with the subtlety and dimensionality of this print. Designed by Carolyn Friedlander for her Polk collection, this cotton/linen blend has enough weight for the York while still being light and breezy enough for summer wear.

I’ve been a fan of Carolyn Friedlander’s designs since her Doe line released years ago. Although I liked Doe, the line that endeared me to her work was Carkai. I made my favorite Scout Tee and two shirts for my son from Carkai fabric. A tear or two may have been shed when my son finally outgrew those shirts.

Carkai and Doe were both printed on quilting cotton which somewhat limited my pattern choices at the time. Then Carolyn and Robert Kaufman did something phenomenol in her next few lines releasing prints on cotton/linen blends, lawn, and knits. Since then, I’ve used her fabrics for a Farrah Top, Ronja Dungarees, and even included her first cotton/linen blend prints (the overalls and jumpsuit pictured below) in a children’s clothing collection I designed to show at Utah Fashion Week in 2017 . I guess you could say I’m a fan.

Sizing and Alterations

Ok, I know, you probably aren’t here for the trip down memory lane. You’re here to talk about the York so we’ll get back to it. Using the size chart, I determined that I would need to make a 6 at the bust, graded to a 12 at the hips. That is exactly what I did and it seemed to work perfectly. Helen’s closet recently updated the sizing on the York to include a wider range of sizes and I think this made size selection more accurate than the previous S-M-L-XL sizing. Since I didn’t make the previous version, I can’t be sure of that but, it’s an assumption I feel somewhat justified in making. My only other sizing alteration was adding four inches to the length at the hem.

Two other non-sizing alterations were made. One intentional and one not. Tiahna of Ammon Lane made her first York last summer and her self-drafted angled pockets persuaded me to give the York a try after initially overlooking it. So, I copied her almost exactly in making these angled pockets.

My unintentional alteration was the addition of a center back seam. Unless I’m testing a pattern, I almost never look at pattern layouts or cutting instructions, paying attention only to grain lines. This time, my haste and haughtiness caught up with me. I was laying out the pattern pieces on the fabric when I realized the only way the pattern pieces would fit on a folded 45″ wide piece of fabric was if I added a seam allowance to the center back, not cutting it on the fold. I cut out the fabric, silently wondering why the fabric requirement chart didn’t note the need for more fabric. That is, until I went back to the instructions and realized the pieces were meant to be cut in one layer on 45″ wide fabric. Lesson learned. Perhaps next time I’m feeling puzzled about pattern layout, I’ll actually check the instructions before cutting.

Construction

Sewing the York took the better part of one afternoon. In fact, making the bias tape may have taken almost the same amount of time as the rest of the construction. It really is almost as easy as attaching the pockets, and then sewing the front and back together. The most difficult step: Attaching the bias tape. That’s it. If you’ve never attached bias tape, I promise you it’s nothing to fear. The bias tape adds a polished look to the insides and provided a fun opportunity to play with a contrasting print. I used other prints by Carolyn Friedlander for a fun, scrappy bias finish.

Final Thoughts

I just might become a pinafore person. You know my undying love for overalls and this pinafore fever feels like an extension of that. My favorite part about this pattern is the simplicity of it all. Clear instructions and a straightforward sew make this a pattern I will gladly recommend to my beginner sewing friends. It was a quick sew that, paired with the right fabric, feels casual enough for daily wear and dressed up enough for church or family events. Yesterday the deep pockets came in handy for hiding snacks, safeguarding my phone, and carrying small toys. All necessary things at this stage in my life. Now, how long do I wait before sewing another one?

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Retro Inspired Tops with Indiesew

Hello! Today I’m sharing my second post as part of the Indiesew 2019 Blogger Team. After making four pairs of Persephone Pants over the last year, I decided that I needed some retro inspired tops to wear with them during spring and summer. With a couple yards of fabric, two great patterns, and a little bit of hacking, my retro wardrobe dreams are beginning to come true. Ready for all the details? Let’s do this.

Grainline Studio Lark Tee


The Grainline Studio Lark Tee has been a staple in my wardrobe since the pattern release in 2015. Over the years I’ve sewn every sleeve length and neckline option. This time, I wanted something a little different. Initially I had planned to make a button front hack, decided against it, and then thought I’d try a lettuce hem. I haven’t spent quite enough time practicing a lettuce hem to feel confident using it in an entire garment just yet. Hopefully with a bit more practice I’ll have a lettuce hemmed top before the end of the year. Eventually I settled on using a contrasting ribbing on the sleeves, neckline, and hem.

Fabric

This green stripe waffle knit (also available in ice, pink, and blue) has been on my radar for a while now. I could never quite decide on a suitable project. In the end I decided to just order the fabric and let it tell me what it wanted to become. The 100% cotton content makes it breathable and easy to wear. The only drawback to this fabric is the lack of spandex which means there isn’t great recovery once the fabric has been stretched. To remedy that and keep the shirt fitting in the neckline, I used a rayon/spandex rib knit for the bands. Together they make a vintage inspired tee that’s sure to keep me cool and put together all summer long.

Fitting and Alterations

I love a good loosely fitted tee. To achieve a looser fit with the Lark Tee I always sew a size 4 instead of the 2 (where my measurements land). With the sizing sorted, my modifications to achieve this look were quite simple. I chopped 1″ of the short sleeve length and added 1/2″ (finished) bands to the sleeve hems. Originally, I hadn’t planned for the bottom band and cut the shirt pattern as is. Upon trying it on, I didn’t love it so I chopped off 6.5″ from the bottom and added a 2″ band. That’s it. Easiest pattern hack ever. Perhaps next time I would chop an extra 1″ or 2″ off the bottom for a more cropped look. This version toes the line between cropped and regular length.


Construction

Nothing makes me feel more productive than sewing a banded tee or sweatshirt. Deciding on how to hack this tee took longer than the actual making of it. Once I made a decision, sewing this tee took me just over an hour (including interruptions to help or talk with my 5 year old). Such a quick, satisfying sew!

Seamly Jersey Popover

THIS. This Seamly Jersey Popover hack is what has me really feeling all the vintage, retro vibes. After pinning a couple of collared tees to my Apparel Sewing and Inspiration Pinterest board, I knew that I had to make something similar happen. I turned to Indiesew’s large pattern catalog to find a pattern match. When I saw the Jersey Popover, it felt serendipitous. This would be the simplest pattern “hack” I’d ever done.


Fabric

A retro inspired look called for a fabric with an equally retro appearance. The colors and texture of this Blue and White Stripe Pique Knit practically scream 1970’s dad style weekend wear. I’ll be honest and say that I had no idea what a pique knit (apologies to my college Textiles professor) was until I started googling and saw lots of polo shirts made from pique knits. Sold! This fabric had to be mine. I paired this pique knit with the same rayon/spandex rib knit mentioned above for a match made in Brady Bunch heaven.

Fitting and Alterations

According to the sizing chart, my measurements fell right between an extra small and a small. After looking at the finished measurements, I decided to size down to the extra small for a closer fit. With the size determined, I made two small alterations to achieve this hack. First, I cut off the bottom curve for a straight hem. Second, I cut the sleeves 4″ above the sleeve lengthen/shorten line. That’s it. No intense “hacking” necessary.

Construction

Sewing the Jersey Popover was simultaneously simpler and more difficult than I thought. The instructions were great and easily guided me through each step of the process. My difficulties lie in the rib knit used for the plackets and collar. Topstitching it was not an easy task and I opted out of topstitching the collar as a result. I attempted it a couple of times and just couldn’t get a nice looking topstitch on the rib knit. My other issue with the rib knit was that it’s quite thick where several layers are sewn together around the plackets. With some grading and trimming I was able to achieve a passable result.

This was also my first time sewing a knit placket. I’ve sewn plenty of woven plackets in the past, but sewing one in woven is a whole new ball game. With a little bit of patience, Interfacing, and my trusty seam ripper, I made it work. Next time I think I would just use a self fabric instead of the ribbing for plackets with less bulk. Overall, it’s not the worst first attempt so I’m just proud to be honing a new skill.

Conclusions

When my husband saw these outfits he said, “Oooh! very retro.” and then proceeded to ask me if I was headed to play tennis at the country club. Those two responses are a good indicator that I’ve achieved my styling goal with these tops. I mean, who doesn’t want to dress like they’re about to hop in the station wagon and head to the country club? Ok, maybe I’m the only one with that specific style goal in mind. Over the coming months I plan to pair these with my Burnside Bibs and Phillipa Pants in addition to the Persephone Pants seen here. Perhaps I’ll even make a Monarch Jacket to wear over them? hmm… Now, if I start describing things as groovy, someone please snap me back to reality. Until then, I’ll be living in a vintage inspired world of my own creation.

Disclosure: These fabrics and the Jersey Popover pattern were provided to me by Indiesew in exchange for this post. All opinions are my own.

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Jean Paul Coverall by Ready to Sew

Hello! If you follow me over on Instagram (@nf_merritts), you may know that I’m celebrating all week with Nicole’s Birthday Jumpsuit Bash. I’ve loved the idea of jumpsuits for years but, wasn’t able to wear ready to wear jumpsuits without serious discomfort due to my long torso. Two years ago I sewed my first jumpsuit (an Anza Jumpsuit) and fell in love. Since then my handmade jumpsuit collection has grown by a few each year. This Ready to Sew Jean Paul Coverall is the fifth addition to my growing collection. I was enamored with the pattern upon its release last year and have been patiently biding my time until I could make a spring/summer appropriate version. The time has come and I’ll probably live in these for the foreseeable future. Are you ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Fabric Choice

When planning this make I had a vision of spring and summer days spent outside with my son. As such, I needed a fabric that would be light and comfortable. After a bit of deliberation and some help from Erin (@erinalwayssews) I settled on this Tencel Twill in Ginger from Imagine Gnats (they were kind enough to provide this fabric for me as part of my Birthday Jumpsuit Bash). The fabric turned out to be everything I was hoping and more. The fabric has beautiful drape, is slightly easier to sew than rayon, and the color is even lovelier in person. All the online raving about tencel twill is true. This was my third time working with the substrate and it’s a dream every time.

Pattern Details and Construction

The Jean Paul Coverall and its expansion are jam packed with interesting details. In fact, this was probably one of the most time consuming clothing items I’ve ever sewn. There are large pockets on front and back, button plackets, a front and back pleat detail, front fly, ample topstitching, a drawstring waist (from the expansion),and a collar. Making this was equivalent to the work it takes to make both jeans and a button up shirt. The effort was 100% worth it as I plan to never take this off.


While this jumpsuit was a ton of work, it was also a satisfying sew. Topstitching is one of my favorite sewing tasks and I got a decent amount of practice as almost every detail is carefully topstitched. It also made fixing my mistakes take a bit longer. I got cozy with the seam ripper a few times redoing the collar and fixing the button plackets. I’ve made at least 30 collars and button plackets over the years and occasionally still make mistakes. Honestly, neither looked awful before but they weren’t quite to my standard either. I debated leaving my mistakes but with a project this time consuming, it was worth the extra minutes to redo those imperfections and love the final product.

Speaking of imperfections, there is one on this jumpsuit that I couldn’t correct. That issue is the twisting on my right leg. My left leg is just fine without any real twisting so I know that the issue lies with me and not with the pattern. Twisting usually occurs in pants when the legs weren’t cut on the proper grain. As careful as I try to be this does occasionally happen when cutting in a double layer. Note to self: Always cut pants in a single layer. The issue wasn’t noticed until one of my later try-ons and by then it was too late to do much about it beyond completely scrapping those pieces. It doesn’t affect the comfort of this outfit and likely won’t be noticed by anyone who doesn’t sew so I won’t let it bother me too much and just chalk it up to a lesson learned.

Fitting

According to the sizing chart, my measurements put me at a size 38 bust, and size 42 at the waist and hips. This made grading fairly simple. Just below the bust darts I began grading the pattern to a 42 waist. On the pattern pieces it seemed like a steep angle but ended up looking just fine in the final product. Other fitting adjustments I made were adding 1/2″ to the rise on the front and back pants and 2″ to the length. I also added 1/2″ in length to both the front and back bodice pieces. Being able to add length is what drew me to sewing my own jumpsuits. Nobody deserves to be left out of jumpsuit wearing because their torso is longer, shorter, rounder, or thinner than the “standard” sizing for ready to wear clothing.


One last fitting modification was tapering the legs a bit. My calves and ankles are a good 2 sizes smaller than my waist and hips. It used to be something that made me quite self conscious as I was sometimes teased about walking on toothpick legs. Once I became an adult and realized a person’s body shape or size has exactly zero to do with thier worth, those kind of comments stopped bothering me. Ok, back to the leg tapering. I first basted the pant sides as is. Honestly it didn’t look bad but was a bit frumpy due to my proportions. Starting just under the front pockets I ended up tapering the seam until I had taken it in an extra 1/2″ at the bottom of the legs. This extra 1/2″ taken out of a seam meant that the bottom of the legs were taken in by about 2″. The taper isn’t so extreme as to make the pants uncomfortable but, just enough to feel proportional to my body.

Final Thoughts

Overall, I’m happy with this make although there is some noted room for improvement in my next version. Next time I’ll budget more time for the construction, cut the leg pieces in a single layer and pay more careful attention to the fly (it looks nice, just not quite perfect). Next time I sew this pattern I plan to make the dress version possibly in a rayon/linen blend. Although I honestly wouldn’t be opposed to sewing this same version in a rainbow of tencel twill (I have my eyes on this Mallard color from Imagine Gnats). After sewing for years and making a myriad of projects, it’s nice to make something that humbles me again. Sometimes I overestimate my skill and underestimate the time something will take. This was one of those times. This project doesn’t actually take significant skill, just a willingness to slow down and take your time while sewing. My mistakes don’t make me like this garment any less, in fact, they make me thankful for the lessons learned and I still plan to wear the heck out of this thing.

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Five Points Blouse

Good morning! Today I’m here with a quick post about my Five Points Blouse. The pattern was designed by my friend Jennifer (@peppermintcreek on IG) who joined me in celebrating the Coat Making Party in January of 2018. She asked me to sew up this pattern which is featured in the Feb/March issue of Sew News Magazine (Follow this link NOW to download the templates for free until March 31st). Alright, let’s get down to the nitty gritty.

Initial Adjustments

Once the pattern was released, Jennifer noted to me that there were a few pattern corrections that were missed before printing/publishing. Namely, the finished pattern measurements listed were about 1″ larger than the actual finished measurements. With this noted, I decided to size up and sew the medium.

The second issue Jennifer pointed out was the arm band/cuff being a bit too small. For the size medium, I ended up cutting a piece 3″x19″ to use as the cuff.

The third issue needed no adjustments, just some attention on my part. The notches on the front and back pieces were incorrectly marked. The double notched side of the yoke should attach to the back of the top and the single notched side to the front despite the double notches on the front.

Fourth, and final issue was one I noticed when cutting the top. In the cutting instructions, it directs you to cut a bias strip that is .5″x34″ for the neckline binding. This would be way too thin to work properly. Instead, I cut my bias binding 1.25″ x 34″ and used the method outlined in this Made by Rae blog post to attach my neckline binding. The only deviation I made from that blog post was to understitch the binding before topstitching it down.

Finally, as a matter of personal preference, I left off the front zipper. I had a zipper picked out for the project but, didn’t love it paired with my fabric once it arrived.

Construction

I found the construction to be straightforward and fairly quick. Overall I spent somewhere around 2 hours making this top including pattern assembly and cutting. Honestly, it probably would’ve come together even quicker if I hadn’t stopped several times to try it on. The pattern uses 1/4″ seam allowances which doesn’t allow much room for alteration. Since it’s a boxy style, this isn’t really an issue.

The only modification I made during construction was slightly tapering the seam where the front bodice meets the yoke. To do this, I used a 1/2″ seam allowance at the neckline and tapered it back to a 1/4″ seam allowance at the sleeve opening. This brought the neckline up just a bit higher since it was previously a bit low for my preference.

Fabric

This fabric is a cotton/rayon blend I purchased from Blackbird Fabrics. It’s currently sold out at Blackbird but, I was able to find some of the same fabric available here at Stonemountain Fabric. It doesn’t have a ton of drape, just enough to keep this top from looking too boxy. My favorite part about it is the way it crinkled when washed, giving it a cloud-like feel and appearance. Thanks to the light, breezy nature of this fabric, I can see it becoming a staple during the scorching summer months. I’m imagining this top will primarily be worn tucked into a pair of linen pants or shorts. Guess I had better sew some of those soon.

Conclusions

Despite a few changes made to the pattern, I actually enjoyed sewing up this top. I opted to write a blog post outlining these changes because knowing the alterations beforehand was a factor in making this sewing process mishap free. It’s always easier to go into a project knowing beforehand if there are any necessary adjustments. In making this top a second time, the only change I would make would be narrowing the neckline a bit. It works fine as is but, does lend itself to the occasional bra strap peeking out. Overall, I’m happy with this top and do see it being worn regularly once it warms up a bit.

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A Menswear Inspired Look with Indiesew

Hello again! Today I’m sharing my first post as part of the 2019 Indiesew Blogger Team. Inspired by Shirt Month and Menswear for Everyone, I decided to create a look that was a bit of a departure from my usual. Using the Grainline Studio Archer Button Up and Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans patterns, my goal was creating a look that could plausibly be pulled from my husband’s closet but instead fits my unique body shape. Alright, let’s get to it.


Archer Button Up

After seeing this Navy Tropics Rayon Challis fabric restocked on Indiesew, I knew it had to be mine. The fabric is opaque, has a nice drape, and is a bit more stable than a traditional rayon challis which makes it easy to work with and perfect for a collared shirt. As I was undecided on whether to sew short or long sleeves, I ended up ordering 2 yards and have about 1/2 yard left.

One thing I’ve tried to do over the last few years is slow down the process of sewing and take the time to carefully and properly finish each item. In December, I made an Ikat Archer opting to finish the inside by using french seams. The inside of that shirt is almost as lovely as the outside so I knew I wanted to do the same with this one. The result is a shirt with no exposed seams that will hopefully last years. Through sewing I’m slowly learning to trade speed for precision and quality over quantity.

Morgan Jeans

It’s no secret that I love a good pair of pants (evidenced by #sewfancypants). Boyfriend jeans have always seemed out of reach for me. I’ve loved the style for years, but never found a ready to wear pair that fit well. When I found the style in women’s sizing, the rise was always just a bit short. I’ve even spent my fair share of time over in the men’s section trying on jeans with hopes of finding a perfect pair. The problem with the men’s jeans was they all seemed to assume that the wearer would have a flatter buttocks and wider legs. These issues with ready to wear jeans made me hesitant to try the boyfriend jeans style but, seeing hundreds of fabulous Morgan Jeans, emboldened me to give them a try.

My measurements put me squarely between a 10 and a 12 on the pattern size chart. Upon reading reviews and doing a bit of research, I decided to sew a 12. This turned out to be a great decision as the 10 would’ve likely been a bit snug. I cut a straight size 12 with my only alterations being an added 1/2″ in the front and back rise as well as 1″ added to the leg length. Once my pieces were cut, I basted the pants together. The initial fit wasn’t bad, but I had a bit of gaping at the center back. Going back to my sewing machine, I removed an extra 1/4″ from the top of the center back seam allowance and angled back to the regular seam allowance just below the back yoke. With that, I decided to call the fit good enough.

I’ve had a decent amount of jeans/pant sewing experience over the last year, so construction went smoothly. This time, however, I decided to try something new (for me) and use a contrasting thread for topstitching. This prompted me to slow down and take my time on each step. My favorite topstitching detail is on the pockets. I was inspired by an Anna Maria Horner woven to make the pocket stitching pattern using simple straight lines and x’s. Topstitching went remarkably well, until it didn’t.

This hefty 14oz Dark Olive Denim from Sewing Studio is the same denim I used last month for my Jenny Overalls (I was completely surprised to have over a yard left over). Both of my sewing machines did well sewing this denim while making my overalls so I assumed these would come together without a hitch. On Friday, I was patting myself on the back for a topstitching job well done and had one step left to complete my jeans: attaching belt loops. After several attempts, it seemed that these belt loops were not going to happen so I went to bed. In the morning, I woke up with a clear head and decided to try again. This time I flattened the ends of my belt loops with a hammer and miraculously, my machine decided to work. That is, until I got to the center back belt loop. Eight layers of 14oz denim is apparently the limit for my domestic machines and I nearly broke my machine trying to remove stuck needle. In the end, the pants got finished and I think the belt loops look ok. I did learn that next time I need to sew eight layers of 14oz denim, I should probably call upon someone with an industrial machine to assist.

Menswear and Me

While I recognize that both the Archer and the Morgan Jeans are women’s patterns, both have silhouettes and details inspired by menswear. Both of these pieces will surely find their way into many outfits over the next few years and, thanks to careful sewing, hopefully hold up to whatever I may throw at (or spill on) them. However, my biggest takeaway from sewing these items was the confidence needed to start sewing for my husband.

Twice while sewing this outfit, my husband remarked how he would like similar items in his wardrobe. First, when I finished the Archer, my husband said, ” I wouldn’t want gold buttons, but, yeah, I’d wear a shirt like that.” Second, when I was trying on my Morgan Jeans, my husband asked “Do you think you could make me jeans that fit me the way those fit you?” These comments reassured me that my goals for this outfit had been achieved.

Overall, I’m quite pleased with the end result of this menswear inspired outfit and I see more menswear sewing in my future. Whether that menswear will actually be made for my husband or for myself remains to be seen. Anyone else sew some menswear during February or have some planned for the future?

The rayon challis and jeans pattern used in this post were provided to me by Indiesew, but all opinions expressed here are my own.

Thanks for reading!

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Sewing for Spring with Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Here in Utah, winter is showing no signs of stopping soon, but that hasn’t stopped Raspberry Creek Fabrics from brightening the season with their Spring 2019 Club release. If you’re unfamiliar with the Club line, it’s printed in house by Raspberry Creek and only available through them. This release has 8 collections and over 50 prints total. A majority of the prints are available on cotton jersey and french terry with a few options available on ponte and rayon challis. As part of the Raspberry Creek Fabrics promotional team, I was able to choose a couple of my favorite prints to sew up and share. Let’s get to it!

My Son’s Cardigan

Upon seeing the spring preview, my son saw this Giraffe Print French Terry (also available in cotton jersey) and said, “Mom! I want to look like a giraffe.” I’m a big believer in using fashion as a form of self-expression so I happily obliged. I chose the cotton french terry as it’s my preferred substrate for my son’s joggers and sweatshirts. It’s got enough weight to hold up to the abuses of a 5 year old, while also being light enough for year-round wear.

His wardrobe contains plenty of pants and tees but is sometimes lacking when it comes to jackets and sweaters. With his input, I settled on making a Petit a Petit Goodall Cardigan (find it free in the Petit a Petit Facebook group). I chose a size 6 which was right in line with my son’s measurements. The intended fit is oversized and I love that my son will likely get at least a year or more of wear out of this cardigan before he grows out of it. If you prefer a more fitted look, I would suggest sizing down. Sewing was straightforward and took somewhere around 2 hours start to finish.

My Perkins Shirt

I couldn’t let my son have all the fun with the Club Spring release and this Abstract Floral rayon challis caught my eye almost immediately. The large scale gives the fabric a modern look while the coloring screams spring. After last month’s frantic fancy pants sewing, I’ve been spending February focusing on tops to pair with my fancy pants. Rayon challis is my favorite substrate for woven tops and I knew this print would be a welcome wardrobe addition.

Although I planned to make some sort of top, I waited to receive the actual fabric before deciding on a pattern. Sometimes you just need to drape a fabric around your body to find out what it wants to become. Eventually I decided to sew up an Ensemble Patterns Perkins Shirt. I tested the pattern last May (see my test versions and more pattern details in this post), and my gathered version has become one of my wardrobe staples.

I again opted to make the cropped version. Other than adding 2 inches to the length, I sewed a straight size 4. Sewing took place over an afternoon and an evening taking maybe 4-5 hours total. The result is a top that I’m sure will be worn regularly throughout the spring and summer months. The soft pastel colors paired with the boxy shape make the look feel unexpected and just right all at once. I can’t wait to mix and match this Perkins Shirt with different pieces of my handmade wardrobe style it in new ways.

Conclusions

I’ve been a customer of Raspberry Creek fabrics since 2017 and have used their Club line french terry for nearly 20 pairs of joggers, several sweatshirts, and a few tees. Although I knew the french terry cardigan would be a hit, this was my first time using the Club rayon challis and I was happy to find that it sewed beautifully. The printing process can make the fabric feel slightly stiff until the first wash but, it softens well after washing. Now that I’ve used it, I think that I’ll start purchasing and using it more often. My son is overjoyed to have a giraffe cardigan and both of these makes will likely be favorites throughout spring.

My son and I both paired our Spring ’19 Club Fabrics with pants made from Cone Mills Black Stretch Denim purchased from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. Mine are the Ginger Jeans (posted about these exact pants in this post) and his are the Misusu Patterns Olli Summer Pants.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants Project 5: Closet Case Patterns Jenny Overalls

Hello again! Today I’m back on the #sewfancypants train with this pair of tapered leg Jenny Overalls. I’ve loved overalls for as long as I can remember and can find at least three “first day of school” pictures in which I’m wearing a pair. Surprisingly, I was on the fence about this pattern for a while until seeing Sara’s tapered corduroy Jenny Overalls. Her version won me over and I knew these were the pants I needed in my life. In fact, these were the first pants I planned when throwing around the idea of the Sew Fancy Pants challenge.

Fabric

Often I plan projects after finding the perfect fabric, this time though, I planned this project around the pattern. After searching through several online shops, I saw this 14 oz Cone Mills Dark Olive Denim (use code ‘Fancy15’ to save 15% through Jan. 31st) from Sewing Studio. Karleen was kind enough to send me this fabric for use in this post and I was delighted when it arrived. The deep color and substantial weight of this denim is perfect for a hefty, durable pair of overalls. I was nervous that my machine would have difficulty handling several layers, but with fresh, sharp denim needles it handled just fine. Only one needle was sacrificed in the making of these overalls.

Fitting

According to the size chart included with the Jenny overalls, my measurements put me right between a 10 and a 12. In previous experiences with Closet Case Patterns, I’ve sized down when in between sizes and had success. I chose to cut a size 10 and use pattern pieces from a tapered leg pants pattern as a reference when straightening out the legs. The original shape of the crotch and waist seams were kept the same when doing this. One mistake I made when cutting the fabric was not adding my standard 1/2″ of length to the front and back rise. This mistake likely led to more fitting work than I estimated.

I went through three baste-fittings, attempting to attain a ‘good fit.’ I found this post by Closet Case Patterns and this post by Melly Sews good references while fitting. I had quite a wedgie in the back so I scooped the back crotch a bit and that seemed to work. My other fit issue were some serious lines in the front. After examining them, I determined the best course of action to be a bit of a round pubis adjustment. Both of these adjustments seemed to help my major issues and after several days of fitting work; I decided to call the fit ‘good enough.’ It’s not perfect, but I’m happy with it and plan to wear these despite any imperfections.

Construction

As I’ve come to expect from Closet Case Patterns, the instructions were fairly detailed and I didn’t have any issues understanding them. These overalls were the most intensive and time consuming of all my Sew Fancy Pants projects. After spending 3 evenings on fitting, I spent 4 on the construction. The first evening was spent on prepping pockets, the second attaching pockets and inserting the zipper, the third attaching the bib portion to the pants, and the fourth on hems and hardware. While intensive, I wouldn’t consider this project more difficult than any of the jeans I’ve made and I quite enjoyed making a distinctively different from my other recent projects.

Details

Something that will always draw me to overalls is the perfect criss-cross of their straps. I’m not sure what makes me love them, but that ‘x’ across the back gets me every single time. The pattern also includes Interestingly angled bib pockets with front pants pockets having openings that similarly mirror those angles. The curved back pockets provide a nice contrast to all the included angles while also flattering the backside. Overall, I’m smitten with the detailed look of these overalls and took my time sewing each one.

Conclusions

It felt deeply satisfying to check this pair of overalls off my list. They’re more traditional than my Ronja Dungarees and Burnside Bibs and I love having a pair of overalls that hints at traditional, but provides a lovely twist with the dark olive color. I see them acting as a neutral in my wardrobe and pairing well with many of my tops, but love them paired here with my favorite Archer Shirt. The beautifully hefty fabric is sure to last well and my hope is that I’ll be able to wear these Jenny Overalls for years to come.

Thanks for reading!