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Breaking the Pattern Ruska Knot Dress

Happy Monday! Taking a small departure from #sewfancypants to throw my hat in the ring for #sewtwistsandties by sharing my Ruska Knot Dress. This is another pattern included in the book Breaking the Pattern written by the ladies of Named Clothing. The Kaste Dress is what convinced me to buy the book, but projects like this Ruska Dress make me want to try everything.

Fabric

Back in December, I was fortunate to work with the ladies of Merritt Makes to share my Archer Button Up. When they asked me if I’d like to collaborate again and use some of their new sweater knit, I happily agreed. I had swatches of the fabric (they offer free swatches if you just ask), and knew it was something I’d like to use. This fabric was provided to me, but I also purchased 1.5 yards of another color to make a Nikko Top because it’s that good (see the Nikko I made in this post). The combination of rayon/modal/cotton/spandex in this sweater knit makes it feel lightweight and cozy all at the same time. The weight is perfect for a layering piece like a Nikko or even a t-shirt during transitional months. For this dress, I chose the charcoal color, and it’s opaque enough that I don’t feel a need to wear any type of slip underneath. Honestly, I should have bought a couple yards of each color because I’ve worn my Nikko in the mink color at least 3 times a week for the last 2 weeks and this dress for the last two days. In short, I’m a fan.

Preparation and Alterations

In general, I prefer the convenience of PDF patterns to paper patterns or books but, when a book includes so many beautiful options, I have to concede. A sweet former co-worker of mine introduced me to Pellon 830 or Easy Pattern years ago and it’s become my go-to for tracing patterns. It’s more durable than tracing paper, can be sewn (I often baste it together to check fit before cutting main fabric), and even ironed on a low setting when my pieces inevitably become crumpled due to my poor pattern organization. If I’ve convinced you to give it a try it’s usually available at JoAnn Fabrics and on Amazon.

I spent an evening tracing the 5 pattern pieces and cutting fabric. Like most people, I’m not a straight size and had to do a little bit of grading. I used a size 2 at the bust, graded to a 4 at the waist, and a 5 at the hips. I also added 4 inches to the length, but after trying on the nearly completed dress, decided to cut off 3 of those extra inches before hemming. Lesson learned. Next time I’ll just add 1 inch to the length. Other than minor grading and adding some length, my only other alteration was to use the long sleeves instead of the short sleeve length.

Construction

Unfortunately, I never quite keep an accurate count of the time spent on construction due to the regular disruptions that come with sewing and parenting at the same time. Nevertheless, I do know that this was a fairly straightforward and quick sew. I spent one evening constructing the dress and part of an afternoon hemming it. The trickiest part of construction was hemming the ties, but I pressed them well, used lots of pins and took my time with the double needle. As long as you’re not trying the rush the process, I think success can be yours. To sew the seams, I just used the lightning stitch on my regular machine. I then pressed them open and finished all the raw edges with my serger. Since this is a knit, finishing the edges isn’t necessary and you can complete this project without a serger. Adding twill tape at the shoulder seams provided necessary stabilization and was much easier than the clear elastic often recommended for the same purpose. Constructing this dress was a breath of fresh air in the middle of this month’s pants frenzy, a reminder that mixing things up once in a while is a welcome idea.


The Why Behind Making the Ruska Dress

When planning this dress, I had a date night outfit in mind. I don’t own a basic black dress and wanted something that was simultaneously comfortable, simple, and sexy. My day to day look includes little to no makeup, a top knot, and a simple top and pants. It’s rare these days that I get a chance to dress up and feel like an adult apart from my role as a mother. Earlier this month, my husband turned 28 and I wanted something extra special to wear for going out.

My husband’s birthday is always an extra special occasion because it also marks the anniversary of the first time we spent time together outside of school classes. Twelve years ago, he left his own 16th birthday party to come hang out with me and my friends at a high school basketball game. Afterwards, we went to Wendy’s where we got chased out of the restaurant after Marshall (my husband) and a couple of his friends attempted to go through the drive through with a shopping cart. We got in our respective cars and regrouped at Burger King before deciding that maybe we should go home before getting into any more trouble. I still remember going home that night and giggling with my sister Amanda and friend Teisha about this goofy boy that got us kicked out of Wendy’s. I’m sitting here smiling at the memory of my 15 year old self slowly falling for the boy who wooed me by knowing the nickname of Iowa (I moved to Utah from Iowa at 15) and left his birthday party to spend time with my friends and me.

Final Thoughts

Honestly, I’m unsure of what to say that hasn’t already been said. This sweater knit and the Ruska Knot Dress seem destined for one another and I don’t want to ever take this off (currently wearing it as I type). Perhaps this spring or summer I’ll even find the time to whip up a short sleeve version of this dress. It would look equally lovely in the marine or oxblood colors of this knit also available from Merritt Makes. The fit, fabric, and design are exactly what I was looking for and, while not 100% perfect, I don’t think there’s anything I’d change.

Thanks for reading! Leaving you with a photo that’s a more accurate representation of what taking blog photos usually entails.

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Sew Fancy Pants Projects 3 and 4: Persephone Pants and the Olli Summer Pants

Hello! I’m back on the #sewfancypants train and looking forward to sharing today’s looks. My son has seen me sewing up a storm over the last few weeks and always asks, “Is that for you or is it for me?” So, when I had some long, odd shaped scraps left over from my Persephone Pants, I opted to sew them up into matching pants for my son. His pants are the Misusu Patterns Olli Summer Pants which are a favorite around here. Let’s get on to the details.

Fabric

I wear my two solid colored Persephone Pants several times each week, and knew I needed to add another a pair to the rotation. For this pair I selected this Blue/Grey Ventana Twill from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. (Disclosure: this fabric was provided to me for this post, but all opinions are my own). The fabric has a pronounced twill weave and a mid-weight of 7.9 oz. At 45″ wide, it’s not quite as wide as most bottom weight fabrics, so I did have to get 3 yards in order to have enough fabric. Despite the narrower width, it’s priced great and 3 yards of this fabric costs about the same as 2 yards of other bottom weights I’ve used (psssst: to get an even better deal you can use code ‘FANCYPANTS20’ to save 20% at RCF through January). Like many cottons, this fabric relaxes a bit with wear, so I opted to make my pants just a touch tight. I’ve been wearing them since taking photos a few hours ago, and they’ve now relaxed and are feeling just right.

Persephone Pants

This is my 4th pair of Persephone Pants and I still don’t think I’m done making them. If you want to know the my fitting adjustments you can find them in the post all about my first pair of Persephones. Now that I’ve made them several times, I can get a pair sewn up in about 4 hours. Wearing them makes me feel infinitely cooler than I actually am and this blue/grey pair will be a welcome wardrobe addition. Counting down the days until spring so I can start pairing these with all my fun patterned blouses. Something about winter makes me wear black and white on the daily.

I literally spent weeks hemming and hawing over what to make for this post. Time kept coming and I was feeling the pressure to sew something completely new and unique, but no ideas were sparking joy. The thought of making another pair of Persephone Pants felt like an epiphany. As a blogger, there’s often pressure to feel like content has to be completely new in order to share. Making and wearing this pattern makes me happy, and why shouldn’t that be worth something?

Another bonus to having made this pattern so many times? Upon seeing these, my husband remarked that the workmanship was my most professional yet. Sewing a pattern more than once allows me to slow down and hone the skills related to each step instead of fretting about what skills will be needed for the next. When I first started sewing for myself, I made the same few patterns 5-10 times and it was a great way to refine the skills related to each pattern. Since then, my sewing skills have grown and diversified, but I love going back to my sewing roots and focusing on skill building once again. Maybe I’ll do more of that this coming year.

Summer Olli Pants

I was first introduced to Misusu Patterns after seeing the Origami Sweater on Instagram. Elles has a fantastic pattern collection filled with interesting children’s designs for both boys and girls. Finding exciting and imaginative designs for boys is sometimes a challenge, but that’s not the case with these patterns. Last summer, the Summer Olli Pants and Shorts pattern was released and made available for free to members of the Misusu Patterns Sew and Tell Facebook group. Upon hearing this, I joined the group, downloaded the pattern, and promptly made my son a few pairs of shorts.

Once winter arrived and he could no longer wear his Olli Shorts outside, I noticed my son changing into them whenever we were home. After a few days of this, I asked him why he wanted to wear his shorts at home. He replied, ” The pockets fit my duct tape wallet!” I remedied this situation by making him two pairs of the pants for Christmas, and now, a third pair in this blue/grey twill. Now he’ll have plenty of pants to hold his wallet and keep him warm.

The style lines of this pattern lend themselves well to both scrap busting and color-blocking. I’ve already got a few color-blocked shorts in mind for summer. Good-bye scraps, hello wonderfully eighties shorts. Another feature I love about this pattern is a decent size range from 0-3 months all the way up to 5-6 years. My tall 5 year old is at the top of the size range wearing a 5/6 with 1 inch added to the length. It’s also a rather quick sew. With the pieces already cut, I was able to finish all but the hem of these during the 2 hours and 20 minutes I have to myself while my son is at school. This time included a lunch break, so I probably could’ve completed them during that time if I didn’t take a break. The Summer Olli Pants and Shorts check all the kid’s clothing boxes for me: free pattern, great scrap buster, stylish, and a quick sew? What are you waiting for? If you’ve got a cool kid in your life, you need this pattern.

The Verdict

Sticking with familiar patterns in a new to me fabric was 100% the right choice. It also helped the process along when I cut both pairs of pants at the same time, from now on I’d like to do this more. It cut down on the amount of leftover fabric and gave me the motivation to finish both in succession. The long skinny pattern pieces required for the Olli Pants were the perfect size to fit on my oddly shaped scraps and (bonus!) made me feel less wasteful. I’m a Ventana Twill convert and plan to acquire either the Canyon Red or Mauve Berry in the near future. Any ideas on what I should use it for next?

Thanks for reading!

Interested in more of my Sew Fancy Pants Projects? Check out my Sienna Persephone Pants or my Emerson Crop Pants.

Want to see more of what I’ve made with Raspberry Creek Fabrics? Check out my Matching Loungewear, Perkins Shirt, or Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans.

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Sew Fancy Pants Project 2: True Bias Emerson Crop Pants

Hello! Happy Sunday all. How is your fancy pants sewing coming along? Today I’m sharing my second finish for #sewfancypants, a pair of True Bias Emerson Crop Pants. As mentioned in my plans and inspiration post, I didn’t give the Emerson pattern much consideration until Kelli released a high-waisted option last fall. Then, I knew they had to happen. I’ve now sewn all the True Bias pant patterns and feel like I’ve achieved some sort of True Bias Trifecta.


Fabric Choice

I knew back in October that I wanted to make these pants, but choosing the perfect fabric took more time than expected. Initially, I had planned to make a solid colored pair in tencel twill or silk noil. I scoured the internet for fabric that would make my heart sing, but kept coming up empty. Finally, in December, I was browsing ‘tencel’ on StyleMaker Fabrics and came upon this Black and White Grid Plaid Tencel. It was the one and I ordered it immediately. Once it arrived, I loved it even more. Between the gridded lines are tiny stripes that add texture and interest to the fabric when seen up close. I cut out these pants at our January sewing night on Thursday and several of the ladies ‘oohed and ahhed’ over it. It has a decent drape, but enough weight to feel comfortable as a pair of pants. The texture makes it a bit less slippery than a solid tencel so working with it was a dream.

Construction

As mentioned above, I cut this project on Thursday evening. In order to get photographs and have this blog post up today, I had to do all the sewing on Friday evening. I’m actually not a terribly fast seamstress, so finishing a pair of pants in a day seemed daunting. The Emerson Crop Pants are perfect for this kind of sewing. The pleats, pockets, and flat front waistband provide just enough details to keep things interesting, while making the pants an easy sew. I didn’t time myself exactly but, I think the actual sewing took about four hours start to finish. These pants could likely be sewn in less time if made in a solid or print with no need for pattern matching. I took extra care and did my best to line up the grid on side seams, crotch, and inseams. The pockets and front waistband were cut on the bias to eliminate bit of the pattern-matching headache. It’s not perfectly lined up everywhere but; someone would have to get pretty close to notice that, so I’m satisfied with the result.

Fit and Alterations

My body measurements put me at an 8 waist, and right between a 10 and 12 at the hips. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I opted to sew a straight size 10. I chose not to grade down at the waist because I figured simply using a shorter length of elastic at the waist would be an easier solution than starting with an 8 and grading out. The only other modification made was adding 5 inches to the length. I usually add 3-4 inches in length to my other True Bias pants but, added a little more here because I wanted the hem just above my ankle, making the pants wearable year-round. Overall, I’m really pleased with the fit of these pants. I may go back in and remove a bit of length from the elastic, but that’s the only thing I would change.

End Result

After photographing these pants, we had a little family date night and went out to eat. I paired them with booties, my latest Nikko Top, and a cropped black Wiksten Haori. The result was an outfit fancy enough for a night out, but comfortable enough that I could eat all I wanted at dinner without my pants feeling too tight (thank you elastic waistband). After wearing these, I realized that I need more pants like this in my life. Next time I make this pattern, I think I’ll taper the leg and use a linen for an easy pair of summer pants. I plan to wear this pair year round, pairing it with some of my solid colored tees in the warmer months.

Thanks for reading! Don’t forget to follow along with the ladies of Sew Fancy Pants (Katie, Jen, Loni, and me) because we’ve got more fun and inspiration coming your way all month. Head to my Instagram and enter the StyleMaker Fabrics Giveaway, but don’t delay because it ends Tuesday.

Want to see more of what I’ve made using fabrics from StyleMaker? Check out my Gemma Dress, Joy Jacket, or Spring Style Tour posts.

Fan of True Bias Patterns? Check out my Lodo Dress, Lander Pants, Hudson Pants, or Roscoe Blouse.

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Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater

It’s mid-way through December and the holiday season is in full swing around here. I had lofty sewing goals for December that had to be trimmed thanks to a minor, but unexpected hand surgery. Once I found out that surgery was necessary, I decided to drop all sewing plans except the Archer I posted last week. Had surgery just over a week ago and am feeling quite well. Thanks to a clear schedule (in case I wasn’t feeling well) and a nicely replenished fabric stash, I felt like sewing this week. On Monday afternoon I knocked out a bit of Christmas sewing and on Tuesday decided to sew up this Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater for myself. I mashed up the sleeves of View A with the curved hemline of View B to make a perfectly simple oversized sweater. 

Choosing the Fabric

I usually don’t have a large fabric stash for projects sewn on a whim, but I’ve tried to add a few favorites over the last few months. This organic hemp fleece from D & H Fabrics was begging to become a cozy sweater. It’s a mid-weight sweatshirt fleece with 2-way stretch and pillowy soft backside. It’s one of those fabrics that everyone should have in their stash ready and waiting for the next cozy sweatshirt pattern to come along. 


After the release of the Jarrah, I started looking for good ribbing. I usually just use a self fabric for ribbing, but have been inspired by all the matching ribbing I’ve seen lately. One night I was browsing Etsy, when I decided to search sweatshirt ribbing. I looked at several options before finding this black striped ribbing and falling in love. The black, mustard, and grey mixed with gold read as a combination that could be fun without looking childish. Although I found the ribbing on Etsy, Miekkie Fabrics also has a website (here) with a larger selection of fabrics and ribbing. I opted to purchase through Etsy since I had a gift card, but will likely purchase from their site in the future.  (Just a heads up: Miekkie Fabrics is based in Poland so the ribbing took about 3 weeks to arrive in the United States. ) Once the ribbing arrived, I was pleased with it’s weight and quality. My only complaint would be that when I ordered a quantity of 3, my ribbing was sent in 3 90cm pieces instead of one continuous piece. I didn’t ask for it to be continuous, so this was likely user error. Next time I will contact them before and ask if a continuous piece is possible. 

Fitting

Now, let’s take a minute to talk fit. According to the pattern sizing chart, my bust is right between that of a 2 and a 4 with my hip at a 12. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I noted that there was plenty of ease and too much grading up wouldn’t be necessary. Quickly, I settled on using a 4 at the bust and grading to a 6 at the hips. My only other adjustment was the regular length adjustment. I added 1.25″ to the sleeves and 1.5″ to the front and back pieces. Overall, I’m rather pleased with the fit although as a personal preference I could’ve added another .5″ to the sleeve length. 

Construction

Besides finishing a garment, sewing one up is my favorite part and there’s nothing that satisfies the need to sew like a quick and easy sweater. My son attends Kindergarten in the afternoon and this occasionally gives me two free hours to clean, grocery shop, or sew (I usually choose sewing). On Tuesday morning I assembled the pattern and cut my fabric. After dropping my son off at school, I grabbed my favorite drink (A Starbucks Caramel Apple Spice), put a movie on Netflix, and began sewing. Construction went quickly without any major mistakes and I was able to finish the entire sweater before heading back out the door to pick up my son. 

Overall, the outcome of my Tuesday afternoon sewing was successful. I satisfied the my need to sew, gained a cozy sweatshirt, and began a love affair with sweatshirt ribbing (Seriously, send me all your favorite sources for fabric with matching ribbing because I want to use it in every future sweatshirt). Next, I plan to find a good pink sweatshirt fleece to make a Jarrah in the knot front View C since I already have another striped ready for that project. What are you making for the holidays? Are you sewing for others or getting in some good selfish sewing as I did here?

Thanks for reading!

Want to see more projects I’ve made with fabrics from D&H Fabrics? Check out my Kaste Dress or Mila Shirt.

Ready for more winter sewing projects? Read about my Gemma Sweater, Clare Coat, or Toaster Sweater.

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Ikat Archer Button Up

Hello! I can hardly believe that December is upon us. Somehow I’m feeling baffled that this last year has flown so quickly and simultaneously feeling that it lasted forever. Time is weird. Let’s get back to the reason you’re here. My latest make is one of which I’m quite proud. This Archer Button Up made with an Ikat from Merritt Makes is one of those projects that reminded me “practice makes (almost) perfect.” 

First, Fabric.

Merritt Makes is an online fabric shop run by a mother/daughter team. As someone who spent five years working in a shop run by a mother/daughter team, I have a soft spot for mother/daughter run businesses. About a month ago, I was browsing their website and couldn’t stop planning projects. You know the fabric is good when one look at the website results in the planning of an entire seasonal wardrobe. After emailing back and forth with Merritt, she helped me settle on making an Archer in this delicious Ivory Ikat fabric.

This woven ikat fabric is lightweight 100% cotton. The weave is slightly looser than a quilting cotton, but still tight enough to make handling it easier than a rayon challis. The hand feels similar to a gauze which makes wearing this fabric both breathable and comfortable. Pressing it was a dream which made it ideal for the crisp structure of a button up. Working with this fabric felt luxurious and I found myself taking extra care with each step.

Next, Construction.

As mentioned above, my love for this ikat fabric led me to take extra care during the construction of this top. Due to the slightly looser weave of the fabric, I chose to finish all the exposed seams with french seams instead of a serged edge. I then used two lines to top stitched the french seams so they would lay flat. This meant that each of the exposed seams was sewn a total four times. It took extra time, but the end result is a garment that looks just as neat on the inside as it does on the outside. I want this shirt to last and decided the best way to ensure that would be to take my time on its construction. 

I’m no stranger to button-up shirts, in fact, I’ve made my son at least 12-15 over the last several years. This was my fourth Archer Button Up, but the first using view B and with a standard collar instead of a mandarin collar. The last Archer I made was made in the summer of 2016, so coming back to this pattern felt a little like visiting an old friend. I came back to it with fondness as well as wisdom gained from an abundance of sewing over the years. As with anything I’ve made, there are slight imperfections here and there. However, this top is the best I’ve ever sewn a button up and that realization feels pretty darn good.

I was proud of where I was skill-wise 2.5 years ago when I made my last Archer, and now I’m proud of the progress I’ve seen since then. There have been countless times over the last few years when I’ve thrown a project across the room in frustration, muttered a few choice words, and felt like giving up. Finishing things like this Archer makes me thankful that I didn’t. I still have a ridiculous amount of room for improvement in my sewing, but this project reminded me that improvement happens when we just keep trying. Sometimes it happens more slowly than we’d like, but it does happen.

Despite being pleased with my construction here, it didn’t come without mishaps. Due to the yarn-dyed woven nature of this ikat, there isn’t a definitive right or wrong side to the fabric. In a lot of ways, this is great. Unfortunately, I forgot to double check that I was sewing the correct sides of the fabric together when attaching the sleeves. I didn’t notice my mistake until I had french seamed and top stitched both the sleeves and side seams. As a result, my continuous sleeve placket that should’ve been turned to the inside, was now turned to the outside. My late-night sewing brain determined there were only two options: leave the plackets on the outside and call it a design feature or rip out 24 lines of stitching to reattach the sleeves with the actual right side out. In frustration, I decided to call it a night and come back to my sewing in the morning. Nothing clears your head like a good night’s rest and the next morning I realized there was a third option that would fix my problem in just a few minutes with only one small seam to rip out. All I had to do was unpick a 3/8″ long diagonal seam holding the top of the placket together (for reference see this Archer sewalong post). I then flipped the placket to the new wrong side, re-stitched the diagonal seam, and all was well.

Finally, Fitting.

According to the Archer measurement chart, my bust put me in a size 4 with my hip measurement right between an 8 and a 10. After looking at the finished measurement chart, I decided to go for a straight size 4. In retrospect, I likely should’ve graded to an 8 at the hips for a straighter fit. My only real adjustments to the pattern were adding length. I added 1″ in length to bodice and 1/2″ in length to the sleeves. Overall, I’m pleased with the fit of this top. It gives me full range of motion while the semi-fitted nature of it keeps me from looking as if I just rolled out of bed and grabbed my husband’s shirt. 

Thanks for reading! If you need me, I’ll be cozied up in my Archer and a chunky cardigan for the foreseeable future. Be sure to check out Merritt Makes on IG or at their website. I can almost guarantee that you’ll be as tempted as I am to make an entire seasonal wardrobe with their lovely stock. 

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True Bias Salida Skirt

Hello! Today I’m thankful that I can finally show you my test version of the newest True Bias pattern, the Salida Skirt. The hardest part about pattern testing is always waiting to share my finished make. This skirt is no exception. The Salida includes two views. View A is fitted to the knee and View B is fitted through the hips and mid-calf length. During the test, I made View A, but have been dreaming of View B ever since. 

If you’ve read my Justine skirt post, you may remember that I actually don’t own or wear many skirts. When I found out Kelli’s newest pattern would be a skirt, I was initially hesitant. I did, however, decide to take a leap of faith and I’m exceptionally glad I did. The line drawings really sold me on this pattern. It’s hard to photograph and see in black, but the style lines on this pattern are ace. The front and back both include a v-shaped yoke with center and side panels. Coupled  those with slash pockets that are a surprisingly decent size and you’ve got a winning combination. 

Let’s take a quick minute to talk about this fabric. I used a Black Micro Wale Corduroy from Style Maker Fabrics. When I purchased this fabric last January, I planned to use it for a Lander Pant overall hack that never came to fruition. I cut everything out and then lost steam. Thankfully, the paneling of this skirt makes it easy to cut out of scraps and odd shaped pieces of fabric. It feels fitting that although this corduroy didn’t become a pair of Lander Pants, it found a way to become another True Bias pattern. The softness and structure of the corduroy turned out to be just what this skirt needs. In fact, I think Kelli used the same fabric in a different color for one of the pattern cover samples. 

Over the last few years, I’ve grown to love top stitching seams which made  sewing this skirt all the more enjoyable. The panels and yoke seams are all top stitched; a detail I wish showed up better in this version. Despite the decent amount of top stitching, the Salida came together rather quickly. I sewed it up over the course of 2 or 3 evenings without having to pull any crazy late nights. The zipper insertion is the only area where I made a mistake (zip fly is on the wrong side), but even that wasn’t noticeable or really simple to change so I decided to call it a “design choice.”

Let’s move on to discussing fit. My waist and hip measurements put me right in between a size 10 and 12 on the size chart. Based on this, I made the decision to cut a size 12 and adjust from there. After basting the front and back skirt pieces together, I ended up removing about 3/8″ from each of the outer side seams. This is an adjustment likely due to the fact that I was between sizes, not an issue with the pattern sizing. The only other adjustment I made was to add 3″ to the length above where the back slit begins. In retrospect, I probably only needed to add 2″, I was just nervous about the slit beginning right below my bottom (perils of sewing tall). With those simple adjustments, the fit is pretty close to perfect. 

After not wearing them for so long, I’m still getting used to styling a skirt. Luckily I think I found the perfect formula in pairing this corduroy Salida Skirt with a favorite striped Lark Tee, the ever-versatile Hampton Jean Jacket , and a pair of booties. Now I just need to find a good pair of tights and I’ll be set for the cold months ahead. Wearing my skirt styled this way gives me hope that I may once again add skirts to my regular wardrobe rotation. 

Thanks for reading! 

Want to see more of my True Bias Patterns makes? Check out my Lander Pant, Roscoe Blouse, or Yari Jumpsuit posts.

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Kaste Dress from Breaking the Pattern Book

HAPPY MONDAY! Shouting this from the rooftops because this is a make that makes me want to scream “SEWING IS THE FREAKING BEST!” Today I’m part of the D & H Fabrics Blog Tour. You can check out more about this dress and this luxurious Tencel Twill I used on their blog by clicking this link. Below I’m going to discuss the Named Clothing Breaking the Pattern book and the process of fitting this dress. 

The moment the ladies of Named Clothing announced that they were writing a book, I knew it would become part of my sewing library. I’ve made a few Named patterns and am an admirer of their unique, modern style. My pre-order copy of the book arrived this last Tuesday and it does NOT disappoint. It begins with a beginner-friendly bag and ends with a lined coat. There are dresses, skirts, tops, and pants with options to mix and match some patterns for seemingly endless possibilities. The Kaste Dress with butterfly sleeves caught my eye and the rest is history.

Muslin and Initial Fitting

Since I had a limited amount of fabric and not enough time to order more in case of a fitting emergency, I opted to make a muslin first. This is a rarity for me, but you know that I’m really serious about something if I start making a muslin. The last time I made a muslin was for these bold pants I completed in September. Also because of limited time, I decided to use my Pellon 830 Easy Pattern as my muslin “fabric.” Once I traced the pattern pieces onto the Easy Pattern, I simply cut out the required number of pieces. Then, following the pattern instructions, I quickly basted the darts and pattern pieces together. This resulted in a lovely 3D paper-like version of the dress that I could very carefully try on to assess fit. Since fitting the butterfly sleeve portion wasn’t necessary, I didn’t worry about that piece. The photo below shows what my muslin looked like. There are no photos of it on me because it’s a bit sheer. 

Initial fit adjustments:

  • Started with a size 3 at bust graded to a 4 at waist and a 5 at hips
  • Added 1/2″ to front and back bodice length just below bust line.
  • Added 1 1/2″ to length at hips. 

To my delight, The muslin fit was nearly perfect. I knew there would be other necessary adjustments with my final fabric, but the muslin gave me a good idea of where the darts would fit and if any changes would be necessary in that area. With the fit somewhat sorted, I cut out my main fabric. 

Sewing the Dress

Due to time constraints, deadlines, and an unexpectedly hectic week, I had one day to sew up this dress before meeting up with Sara for photographs. For the record, I don’t recommend sewing this dress in a day. I did not get more than a few hours of sleep. I made one mistake where I thought I was smarter than the instructions and inserted the zipper before attaching the facings. Spoiler alert: I am, in fact, not smarter than the instructions. By the I noticed my mistake, I had the dress nearly finished with the exception of the side seams and hem. I did not have time to correct this by ripping out the zipper and going back several steps. Instead, I used the method described in this video to attach the facing to the armholes. It worked, but next time, I’ll just follow the pattern instructions. 

My favorite part of the construction process was sewing the diagonal seams and contour darts. It’s been quite some time since I last sewed a contour dart and I’ve never sewn one that overlaps a seam line. Each step felt like putting together an elaborate puzzle. That end result though? 100% worth it. 

The dress was nearly finished, when I noticed that my serger needles were getting dull and starting to snag the fabric. Unfortunately, it was late at night and the allen wrench required to change the needles was nowhere to be found. I basted the hem in place and called it good until I could buy a new allen wrench . In case you were wondering, That’s on today’s agenda. Headed to the store for the correct sized wrench and properly finishing the last few seams in my dress. Fixing this properly ASAP so I can get lots of wear out of this baby. Just your friendly reminder that sewing isn’t always sunshine and rainbows, but I could probably benefit from a little more organization. 

Final Fit Adjustments

Once the dress was sewn up, I noticed some excess fabric in the mid-hip area and towards the hem. Starting at the upper hip, I slowly tapered the seam allowance to remove excess. At the lower hip, I took in the side seam by 1/4″, by mid-thigh, the side seam was taken in by 1/2″ and, by the hem it was taken in by almost 1″. This achieved a fitted, but unrestrictive skirt. I wanted to avoid the “so tight I can’t sit down” dilemma that sometimes happens when I wear woven bottoms that are too tight. With these final adjustments, my dress was complete.

Final Thoughts

I’m thrilled to have taken the time to sew a little bit of frosting. My sewing as of late has leaned heavily towards basics and getting out of that headspace for a moment was exhilarating. Honestly, I don’t have a lot of places to wear a dress like this, but it felt good and isn’t that sometimes the point of a hobby? Wearing it makes me feel special which is also a fantastic bonus. Feeling especially thankful for the opportunity to participate in the  D & H Fabrics blog tour as it pushed me creatively and brought me this gem of a dress. I’m also feeling inspired by this new book and trying to eke out all the time I can to stitch of a few more of its projects. 

Thanks for reading! Be sure to follow the tour happening all this week on the D & H Fabrics blog.

Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees, Gemma Dress, or Gemma Sweater. 

Interested to see other things I’ve made with D & H Fabrics? Read about my rayon Mila Shirt. 

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The Free Justine Skirt by Ready to Sew

Happy Fall! I know October is nearly over and leaves have been falling for over a month now, but fall has finally come to my yard. Did you catch my last post about my Named Gemma Sweatshirt? Those photos were taking just two weeks ago and the trees were still a lush green. Now reds, yellows, and oranges have taken over the backyard. After years of apartment living, it’s a bit surreal to look out the windows and suddenly realize that these big, beautiful trees are part of our yard and it’s time we buy a rake. During our house hunt, mature trees were one of the reasons I resisted the idea of a new build. The shade in the summer is ace and these beautiful fall colors are another bonus (although, let’s see how I really feel when I’m finished raking everything).

Ok, enough about trees, let’s get down to business and talk about why you’re really here. This skirt: the FREE Justine by Ready to Sew. Until making this skirt, I hadn’t worn a skirt in nearly a year. I fell out of love with the ones I owned and just wasn’t feeling inspired by skirts. Cue the release of Justine in June. I was immediately drawn to the large patch pockets, midi-length, and button front. Hello effortless skirt of my dreams. Add to that the fact that the pattern was free and trying it out became a no-brainer. I immediately bookmarked the pattern and not so patiently waited until I was no longer knee deep in painting and packing. When we finally moved into our home during the last week of July, I downloaded and printed the pattern before I had even unpacked my kitchen. 

Sewing up this skirt turned out to be a great way to revive my sew-jo after a busy summer. There are only four pattern pieces in the pattern which made it easy to knock out the pattern assembly and cutting in less than an hour. A few days later, I spent an afternoon sewing and finished all but the buttons. Then, I spent a lovely evening watching Netflix and hand-sewing each button. The instructions were straightforward and, combined with my fabric choice, made for a fuss-free sewing experience. 

Let’s talk about fabric choice for a quick minute. My textile of choice is this woven stripe in a cotton/linen blend. I purchased it from Suppose, my favorite hidden gem and a place I called a second home for five years. It’s got a great weight to it, heavier than a quilting cotton, but lighter than a true canvas. The weight makes it a skirt that can easily transition through the seasons. I wore it with sandals and a tee in the heat and can see it looking just as lovely paired with tights and booties.

I had originally flagged this fabric for a pair of Burnside Bibs (see what I actually used for my bibs here) that never came to fruition.  Once I’d printed this pattern and saw this stripe sitting in my stash it felt fated. Working with this stable fabric is incredibly easy and something I would certainly recommend to a beginner. The only drawback to the fabric (thanks to its natural fibers) is that it’s somewhat prone to wrinkles. I’m personally a fan of linen and have learned to embrace the wrinkles that come along with it. 

Can we pause for a moment and just admire these pockets? One of the reasons I love sewing is the aspect of customization that can be added to each piece. If a pattern doesn’t include pockets, I will often add them. With few exceptions, I truly believe that skirts and dresses should always include pockets. I don’t love carrying a bag everywhere and pockets allow me to forego one from time to time. One issue that I sometimes have with patterns are that the pockets are sometimes too small to be useful. Not so with Justine. The included pockets are large enough to fit my entire hand which means they easily fit my keys, wallet, and phone. The folded flap detail is a unique design choice that I’ve come to love. Occasionally I’ll attach a favorite enamel pin to the flap for added flair. 

We’ve talked assembly, fabric, and pockets so I’ll leave you with a note on sizing. My waist and hip measurement put me right at a size 42. I cut a straight 42 with 2 inches added to the length. The full 2 inches of length wasn’t necessary and I ended up taking off 1 of those inches. I didn’t make any other modifications and felt the fit was spot on. 

In summary, the Justine has made me a skirt convert. It’s easy to wear, neutral enough to wear with my wild closet, coupled with just enough detail to keep it interesting. I think you’ll be seeing lots of this baby in my wardrobe. Currently pondering a corduroy version for winter. Should I try it? 

Have I convinced you to try the pattern? If so, head over and download it here.

Want to see more of what I’ve made using Ready to Sew patterns? Check out my Jumpy pants here.

Interested to read more about the shirt I’m wearing in these photos? Read about my Willamette Shirt here.

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Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans in Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Hello! Today I’m sharing my latest outfit made from fabrics available online through Raspberry Creek Fabrics. You may have noticed by now that I’m a bit of a fabric collector and have several online fabric stores from which I regularly purchase. Raspberry Creek has a great selection of designer fabrics along with their in-house printed CLUB line. I was introduced to RCF in the summer of 2017 and just recently moved closer so that picking up my online orders could be even easier. Ok, so maybe that’s not actually why I moved to a new area, but it’s a nice perk. 

I’ve wanted to make the Named Clothing Gemma Sweater since it was released last fall. Instead, I made the dress version first (see that here), and put away the idea of a sweater for a while. It’s been in the back of my mind since, just waiting for the perfect fabric combination to come along. I wanted something with enough stretch to be comfortable, but the  correct weight and structure to really showcase the shape and style lines of the pattern. About a month ago, I was browsing Raspberry Creek Fabrics when I came across the solid ponte and knew I’d found my Gemma fabric. I chose the olive (sold out, but soon to be restocked) and charcoal for a combination that I’ve dubbed my Slytherin sweatshirt. 

A couple of years ago, I had some time to waste and decided to take the sorting quiz on Pottermore. I was perplexed when I found myself sorted into Slytherin. At first I felt almost ashamed by this because I don’t necessarily think of myself as the Tom Riddle or Draco Malfoy type. Like any millenial, I took a couple of minutes to have a mini identity crisis. Quickly, I remembered that the sorting hat allowed Harry to choose his house. In my situation (where none of this actually mattered because my life isn’t a fictional story), I decided that this means we get to choose which traits we want to embody.  loyalty and ambition aren’t bad traits and they are something I try to cultivate so maybe I can be a proud Slytherin after all. 

Ok, enough about my Hogwarts identity crisis. Let’s get back to talking about this sweater. Based on my measurements, I decided to cut and sew a size 38 (US 6). The only alteration made was to add 1″ to the length of the body and the sleeves.

I traced the pattern and cut the fabric in one afternooon, sewing it up the following afternoon. After a series of involved sewing projects, it felt liberating to start and finish something so quickly. This was my first experience sewing ponte fabric and it was much easier than expected. Despite a decent stretch percentage, it’s stable enough to sew easily without some of the headache that comes with sewing a lighter knit such as a cotton or rayon lycra. Overall, I’m so pleased with this sweater and enjoyed the process so fully that I’m considering buying a couple more colors of the RCF ponte and making matching sweaters for my sisters. 

Finally, let’s talk about these Ginger Jeans. This is my third pair of jeans and I made all the same alterations that I made to the first two (read about my sizing and alterations in this post). I’ve wanted a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans since before I dared tackle sewing a pair. In fact, one of my excuses to put off sewing jeans for so long was the difficulty in sourcing the “perfect” denim. Back in September, I unfortunately ended up  pulling an all-nighter while attempting to launch this new site. The next day, Diana posted in the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Facebook Group that Cone Mills denim had just been added to the site. In my sleep-deprived mind, I easily justified purchasing 3 yards of this tencel stretch denim. Patting my tired self on the back for this one because these black denim Gingers are dreamy. 

Just as anything handmade, there are a few imperfections and I can’t quite say that there’s absolutely nothing I’d change fit-wise (there are a few more wrinkles below the rear than I’d like), but all of my Gingers fit me 10x better than ready to wear jeans ever have and I’ve enjoyed immersing myself in the construction process each time. Jeans and pants have quickly become some of my most enjoyable and rewarding items, so if you’re on the fence about making some, what are you waiting for? Grab some Cone Mills denim and get to it. 

If you’ve made it here to the bottom, Thanks for reading. My favorite part of writing a post is finally having my items photographed so they can be added to my regular closet rotation. These two pieces are sure to get their fair share of wear as the temperatures drop over the next several months. What are you wearing/sewing for fall and winter? 

Want more Raspberry Creek Fabrics Inspiration? Check out my french terry loungewear set.  Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees or Gemma Dress. 

Full disclosure: The fabric for my sweater was provided to me, but all opinions are my own. 

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Orchid X Parasol Jumpsuit Collaboration by Chalk and Notch and Ensemble Patterns

Happy Wednesday! This Wednesday is an especially good one because I get to share my latest jumpsuit with you. Last month, Gabriela of Chalk and Notch invited me to be a tester for this  Orchid Midi and Parasol Jumpsuit collaboration with Celina of Ensemble Patterns. When I found out this collaboration included a jumpsuit, my answer was an emphatic “Yes!” I can’t put into words, why I feel so strongly about jumpsuits except to say that they make me feel like my best and most true self. Couple that with the fact that I never regret sewing up one of Gabriela’s designs, and testing this jumpsuit was a no-brainer.

First, let’s chat fabric choice. I currently have three other jumpsuits in my wardrobe, all of which are quite bold in color and/or pattern. This time, I opted to make a simple black jumpsuit. With the holiday season around the corner, I wanted something both elegant and fun for parties or date nights. The fabric is a linen/rayon blend purchased from JOANN. I can’t seem to find the exact fabric online, but it does seem to be available in most of their brick and mortar locations. It has just enough weight to be opaque, more drape than a 100% linen, and the light, soft feel of linen. I’ve been hoarding several yards of it since spring when I was able to purchase it for $7/yd. It’s become a favorite for making wearable muslins and finished products alike. 

Now that I’ve raved about fabric, let’s move on to talking about this dreamy mash-up. This collaboration includes 3 bodice options, 3 pant length options, and 1 skirt option. I opted for the long sleeved Orchid bodice paired with the Parasol long pants option. I also chose to add belt loops and the waist tie.

The way the bodice pieces are gathered and attached to the front and back yokes is one of my favorite features. It’s a simple, feminine detail that feels just right. You may have noticed that I’ve been having moment with wide-leg pants and the pants on this jumpsuit fit in nicely with my latest makes. The final feature that sold me on this pattern is the roomy pockets. Nothing ruins my day faster than putting on a one-piece outfit and realizing it has no pockets. Ok, so maybe it doesn’t ruin my day, but I don’t like it either. 

The wrap front makes adding a closure unnecessary; which makes for a delightfully quick sew. It can, however cause a bit of difficulty when getting undressed. After a couple years of jumpsuit wearing, I’ve come to the conclusion that a well-fitting jumpsuit simply takes a bit of practice to get on and off. Over the years, I’ve developed a technique I like to call the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” First, you will have a side of the jumpsuit that seems easier to get on or off. Usually this is the side that wraps over the top. On my jumpsuit, this is my right side. I drop my right shoulder, and using my left hand, gently tug on the sleeve until it is off my shoulder. I then remove my right arm from the sleeve. Dropping your left shoulder, and using your right hand, repeat for your left side. Once you’ve freed your arms, I’ll let you figure out the rest. Now you know the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” We can all try the dance (while keeping our jumpsuits on) with a virtual Instagram dance party celebrating the release of this collaboration. Just post a video on your grid or stories and tag me @nf_merritts on IG and #thejumpsuitshimmy . There are no prizes in it for you or me, but a 100% guarantee of fun and laughter. Join me? 

Whenever I wear a jumpsuit, someone will ask the inevitable question: “What do you do when you have to visit the bathroom?” Ladies and jumpsuit-loving gentlemen, I am here to tell you that the bathroom conundrum really isn’t as much of an issue as you might think. Sure, having your top half uncovered while using the restroom may not be ideal, but it’s literally 1 minute of your day. Are you willing to give up the joy of jumpsuits for a few minutes of awkwardness ( in which nobody else will actually care or notice because you’re by yourself in a stall)? I say, “No!” Honestly, does anyone truly feel comfortable in a bathroom stall any way? Jumpsuit or no jumpsuit? I’ll step off my soapbox here. I’m just really passionate about jumpsuits, ok? 

I’m now realizing that I’ve rambled on and on without notes on sizing. I’ll leave you with a few notes. My measurements put me in a 4 at the chest and a 10 at the hips. In order to make this jumpsuit work, I started with a 4 at the shoulders and bust then graded the bodice to a 10 at the waist. I then cut a straight 10 for the pants. I added 1″ in length to the bodice, 1/2″ to the rise on the pants, 1″ to the sleeve length, and 3″ to the pant length. These alterations are all standard for me, and I found the original drafting consistent with the size chart. 

If you’ve made it all the way to the end here, I’d just like to say, “Thank you!” My feelings about jumpsuits can be intense and I truly applaud you for reading all the way to the end. 

Special thanks to my Instagram (and real life) husband, Marshall for taking these photos. He’s been stepping up his photo taking skills over the last year and it’s been a lot of fun learning this photography thing together.Â