Fall Sewing Archives - Merritts Makes

October 17, 2019October 17, 2019

Sewing Patterns by Masin: Belen Bodysuit

Disclosure: The Belen Bodysuit PDF pattern was provided to me in exchange for a review. Fabric was purchased by me. All opinions are my own.

Hello! I’m back from a Disneyland vacation and nearly recovered from a week of nonstop walking, eating, and magic. Before leaving on vacation, I finished one last project: this Sewing Patterns by Masin Belen Bodysuit. Wanting something, whimsical, practical, and a bit sexy to wear for our planned date night, I sat at my sewing machine and got to work. This bodysuit fits the bill nicely by combining a low-scooped back with the comfort of a t-shirt. Ready to dive right in to all the details? Let’s do this.

Fabric

I waffled back and forth over fabric choice for weeks. Did I want stripes? Florals? A solid? Once the weather cooled a bit, I started layering and realized that the pieces I reached for most often were my black and white prints. They seamlessly mix with everything in my wardrobe while still adding visual interest. Enter this Crowded Faces viscose crepe knit purchased from Topstitch Atlanta (currently on sale so grab it now). It has a nice textured hand, is slightly sheer and, thanks to the spandex content, also has great recovery. Due to the lightweight sheer nature of the fabric, I did opt to line both the bodice and bottom portion of the bodysuit with white rayon/spandex for a bit of extra coverage and stability.

Sizing and Alterations

The Belen Bodysuit sizing chart put me in a size small at the bust then right between medium and large at the waist and hips. Following these measurements, I graded the pattern accordingly. I also added 1″ in length to the bottom of the bodice, top of the bottoms, and 2″ in length to the sleeves. There’s no lengthen/shorten line on the sleeves so I arbitrarily made a straight line to cut and spread along the top half of the sleeve. If I make this pattern again, I might add another 1″ to the sleeve length (for a total of 3 additional inches). Just personal preference here. I prefer extra long sleeves.

Construction

As the last project before vacation, I crossed my fingers that sewing this up would be smooth sailing. Luck was on my side this time and the Belen came together in an afternoon. Honestly, It took me almost as much time to hand stitch the snaps as it did to sew the rest of the bodysuit. The viscose crepe fabric presented a bit of difficulty if I tried going too fast so; I tried to keep a slow and steady pace. Using a lightning stitch, I sewed the whole thing on my sewing machine. A serger was only used to finish the sleeves before hemming.

Lining the Bodysuit Bottom

In order to line the bottom portion of the bodysuit, I deviated slightly from the instructions. Here’s how: Instead of using the crotch lining pieces, cut one front bottom and one back bottom from the lining fabric. Then, sew the side seams on the lining according to the instructions in step 4. Next, place the lining and outer bottoms right sides together, sandwich the lingerie elastic between the two, and sew it on as indicated in step 5. Finally, stitch across the bottom of the crotch pieces with a 1/4″ seam allowance and turned the bottoms right side out. Using a double needle or zig zag stitch, stitch along the edges of the leg openings to secure the elastic and keep the lining from rolling out.

Final Thoughts

I was initially unsure about the idea of a bodysuit. My biggest qualm being that I might feel like a baby in a onesie. Happy to report that I did not once feel like an overgrown baby whilst wearing the Belen. In fact, I felt quite sexy. Well, as sexy as one can feel in an outfit practical enough for riding amusement park rides. The only time I regretted my outfit choice was when my back got a little chilly in the restaurant. Next time I’ll remember a jacket for restaurant wear.

As the weather cools, I don’t see that scooped back making too many appearances. However, I’m imagining this will be a lovely layering piece worn under cardigans, button ups, and my favorite jackets. I’m looking forward to playing around with styling options and can’t wait to integrate this new piece into my fall/winter wardrobe.

One last thing to note: Some of my lighter weight pants do show what looks like underwear lines with this bodysuit so I’ll have to stick to pairing it with flowy skirts or heavier weight bottoms like these 12 oz denim Phillipa Pants.

Thanks for reading!

October 8, 2019October 8, 2019

Clementine Top and Crew Trousers

Disclosure: The pattern for the Clementine Top was given to me in exchange for a review and I received the Crew Trousers in exchange for my participation in the pattern test (no obligation to promote). All opinions are honest and my own.

Hello all! Today I’ve got a couple of my latest makes to share with you: The Forget Me Not Patterns Clementine Top and the newly released Chalk and Notch Crew Trousers. Combined these two make a look that I’d describe as business casual. My current work environment (as a seamstress and SAHM), only requires that I’m clothed and looking alive for daily activities. However, if I did work outside the home, I have a feeling that this is how I’d want to represent myself. Maybe I’ll pull this out for date night instead. Ready for all the details? Let’s get to it.

Clementine Top

Fabric

I purchased one yard of this marbled scuba knit from Stylemaker Fabrics (sold out but check out their current selection of scuba knits here) in January 2018. Originally, I intended for it to be a Lodo hacked into a top. It never happened and this fabric languished on my shelf for 18+ months. Fast forward to a few weeks ago when it dawned on me that this scuba would be the perfect pairing for the Forget Me Not Clementine Top. The weight of the scuba gives a modern, stiff drape to the cowl and highlights the structure of the princess seams. Match made in sewing heaven.

Sizing

Based on my measurements, I chose to cut and sew a size 36. Technically, my bust fell in a 34 but, I chose to sew a 36 for simplicity and the sizing turned out great. The photos here don’t highlight it quite as well as I’d like but the fitting on the back is especially fantastic. The princess seams make it fit like a glove with no swayback drooping. My only alteration was adding 1/2″ to the top length at the hems. Other than that, I sewed the pattern up as-is.

Construction

The Clementine pattern instructions were clear and easy to follow. Clear instructions combined with a cooperative fabric made this a quick and simple sew. I spent one afternoon on assembly, then hemmed the top and sleeves the next morning. The cowl neck and princess seams added enough detail to make the sewing process satisfying as well.

Crew Trousers

Fabric

A few weeks ago, along with ladies in my local sewing group the “Salty Sewists,” I made a little afternoon trip to visit Harmony in Provo, Utah. It’s a darling store filled with fabric, yarn, and all the best little gifts packed into a small pioneer age house. Oh, the charm! I picked up this coral pink Tencel Twill and knew it would make the perfect pants. The fabric is opaque, has great drape, AND the front side has a brushed texture that feels suede-like. Working with it was fairly easy, although I did have one spot on the waistband where I accidentally stretched the fabric, creating some small bubbles along the waistband. Luckily, that’s covered by a pretty bow so it’s not really a big deal.

Sizing and Alterations

Over the last few years, I’ve sewn nearly every Chalk and Notch women’s pattern. You could say I’m a bit of a fan. It also means that I trust in Gabriela’s ability to get sizing and measurements right. Based on the measurement chart and Gabriela’s recommendation, I chose a size 10 for the waist and hips then graded to a 6 at the thighs and legs. I also ended up removing about 1/2″ of the width around the ankles for a slightly larger taper. My other adjustments were standard for me: 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, 1″ length added at the above knee lengthen line, and 1/2″ length added at the below knee lengthen line. Just going to take a minute here and stress the importance of lengthen lines above AND below the knee on pants. Everyone’s legs are proportioned differently. My calf length is likely not the same as another person of my height and may be the same as someone shorter or taller. If you are thinking about designing a pants pattern, it will make everyone’s life easier when you include both. There we go. Off my soapbox now.

Construction

Despite sewing 90% of my wardrobe over the last several years, I wouldn’t consider myself a quick sewist. Many experienced sewists can whip up a tee shirt in an hour. Often, it takes me two. Pants are no exception. I’ve made probably 10 pairs over the last year and still find myself taking my time to get each step finished well. With that in mind, sewing these pants took me somewhere between 6-7 hours total.

I sewed these over the course of a day while also taking care of my son, getting him off to school, picking him up, cooking dinner, cleaning dishes, and while sitting across the table from my mother (so I might have gotten distracted with chatting). As per usual, Gabriela’s instructions were concise and included plenty of illustrations. This made inserting a lapped zipper (the hardest part: which is totally doable for an advanced beginner) a breeze.

My favorite detail is in the pocket construction. The pockets are shaped and sewn so that they’re secured at the top of the center front. This makes them stay nicely in place and keeps them from flopping around inside the pants. I didn’t know this was something I needed in trousers until now.

Final Thoughts

Do you have a desire to look semi-professional while still feeling comfortable? If so, this pattern combination just might be the one for you. I know it’s the one for me. If I wasn’t wearing a bra with this outfit, I might have worn it to bed. Seriously, that good. Both patterns felt suitable for the advanced beginner. Instructions were clear and I would gladly recommend both.

Here’s the deal: yes, I received both of the patterns in exchange for either a review or testing but; the time, effort, and cost of fabric used in these projects is worth far more than the price of these patterns. I genuinely like both of these patterns and hope you will too!

Thanks for reading!

October 15, 2018October 15, 2018

Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans in Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Hello! Today I’m sharing my latest outfit made from fabrics available online through Raspberry Creek Fabrics. You may have noticed by now that I’m a bit of a fabric collector and have several online fabric stores from which I regularly purchase. Raspberry Creek has a great selection of designer fabrics along with their in-house printed CLUB line. I was introduced to RCF in the summer of 2017 and just recently moved closer so that picking up my online orders could be even easier. Ok, so maybe that’s not actually why I moved to a new area, but it’s a nice perk.

I’ve wanted to make the Named Clothing Gemma Sweater since it was released last fall. Instead, I made the dress version first (see that here), and put away the idea of a sweater for a while. It’s been in the back of my mind since, just waiting for the perfect fabric combination to come along. I wanted something with enough stretch to be comfortable, but the correct weight and structure to really showcase the shape and style lines of the pattern. About a month ago, I was browsing Raspberry Creek Fabrics when I came across the solid ponte and knew I’d found my Gemma fabric. I chose the olive (sold out, but soon to be restocked) and charcoal for a combination that I’ve dubbed my Slytherin sweatshirt.

A couple of years ago, I had some time to waste and decided to take the sorting quiz on Pottermore. I was perplexed when I found myself sorted into Slytherin. At first I felt almost ashamed by this because I don’t necessarily think of myself as the Tom Riddle or Draco Malfoy type. Like any millenial, I took a couple of minutes to have a mini identity crisis. Quickly, I remembered that the sorting hat allowed Harry to choose his house. In my situation (where none of this actually mattered because my life isn’t a fictional story), I decided that this means we get to choose which traits we want to embody. loyalty and ambition aren’t bad traits and they are something I try to cultivate so maybe I can be a proud Slytherin after all.

Ok, enough about my Hogwarts identity crisis. Let’s get back to talking about this sweater. Based on my measurements, I decided to cut and sew a size 38 (US 6). The only alteration made was to add 1″ to the length of the body and the sleeves.

I traced the pattern and cut the fabric in one afternooon, sewing it up the following afternoon. After a series of involved sewing projects, it felt liberating to start and finish something so quickly. This was my first experience sewing ponte fabric and it was much easier than expected. Despite a decent stretch percentage, it’s stable enough to sew easily without some of the headache that comes with sewing a lighter knit such as a cotton or rayon lycra. Overall, I’m so pleased with this sweater and enjoyed the process so fully that I’m considering buying a couple more colors of the RCF ponte and making matching sweaters for my sisters.

Finally, let’s talk about these Ginger Jeans. This is my third pair of jeans and I made all the same alterations that I made to the first two (read about my sizing and alterations in this post). I’ve wanted a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans since before I dared tackle sewing a pair. In fact, one of my excuses to put off sewing jeans for so long was the difficulty in sourcing the “perfect” denim. Back in September, I unfortunately ended up pulling an all-nighter while attempting to launch this new site. The next day, Diana posted in the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Facebook Group that Cone Mills denim had just been added to the site. In my sleep-deprived mind, I easily justified purchasing 3 yards of this tencel stretch denim. Patting my tired self on the back for this one because these black denim Gingers are dreamy.

Just as anything handmade, there are a few imperfections and I can’t quite say that there’s absolutely nothing I’d change fit-wise (there are a few more wrinkles below the rear than I’d like), but all of my Gingers fit me 10x better than ready to wear jeans ever have and I’ve enjoyed immersing myself in the construction process each time. Jeans and pants have quickly become some of my most enjoyable and rewarding items, so if you’re on the fence about making some, what are you waiting for? Grab some Cone Mills denim and get to it.

If you’ve made it here to the bottom, Thanks for reading. My favorite part of writing a post is finally having my items photographed so they can be added to my regular closet rotation. These two pieces are sure to get their fair share of wear as the temperatures drop over the next several months. What are you wearing/sewing for fall and winter?

Want more Raspberry Creek Fabrics Inspiration? Check out my french terry loungewear set. Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees or Gemma Dress.

Full disclosure: The fabric for my sweater was provided to me, but all opinions are my own.

October 3, 2018October 3, 2018

Orchid X Parasol Jumpsuit Collaboration by Chalk and Notch and Ensemble Patterns

Happy Wednesday! This Wednesday is an especially good one because I get to share my latest jumpsuit with you. Last month, Gabriela of Chalk and Notch invited me to be a tester for this Orchid Midi and Parasol Jumpsuit collaboration with Celina of Ensemble Patterns. When I found out this collaboration included a jumpsuit, my answer was an emphatic “Yes!” I can’t put into words, why I feel so strongly about jumpsuits except to say that they make me feel like my best and most true self. Couple that with the fact that I never regret sewing up one of Gabriela’s designs, and testing this jumpsuit was a no-brainer.

First, let’s chat fabric choice. I currently have three other jumpsuits in my wardrobe, all of which are quite bold in color and/or pattern. This time, I opted to make a simple black jumpsuit. With the holiday season around the corner, I wanted something both elegant and fun for parties or date nights. The fabric is a linen/rayon blend purchased from JOANN. I can’t seem to find the exact fabric online, but it does seem to be available in most of their brick and mortar locations. It has just enough weight to be opaque, more drape than a 100% linen, and the light, soft feel of linen. I’ve been hoarding several yards of it since spring when I was able to purchase it for $7/yd. It’s become a favorite for making wearable muslins and finished products alike.

Now that I’ve raved about fabric, let’s move on to talking about this dreamy mash-up. This collaboration includes 3 bodice options, 3 pant length options, and 1 skirt option. I opted for the long sleeved Orchid bodice paired with the Parasol long pants option. I also chose to add belt loops and the waist tie.

The way the bodice pieces are gathered and attached to the front and back yokes is one of my favorite features. It’s a simple, feminine detail that feels just right. You may have noticed that I’ve been having moment with wide-leg pants and the pants on this jumpsuit fit in nicely with my latest makes. The final feature that sold me on this pattern is the roomy pockets. Nothing ruins my day faster than putting on a one-piece outfit and realizing it has no pockets. Ok, so maybe it doesn’t ruin my day, but I don’t like it either.

The wrap front makes adding a closure unnecessary; which makes for a delightfully quick sew. It can, however cause a bit of difficulty when getting undressed. After a couple years of jumpsuit wearing, I’ve come to the conclusion that a well-fitting jumpsuit simply takes a bit of practice to get on and off. Over the years, I’ve developed a technique I like to call the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” First, you will have a side of the jumpsuit that seems easier to get on or off. Usually this is the side that wraps over the top. On my jumpsuit, this is my right side. I drop my right shoulder, and using my left hand, gently tug on the sleeve until it is off my shoulder. I then remove my right arm from the sleeve. Dropping your left shoulder, and using your right hand, repeat for your left side. Once you’ve freed your arms, I’ll let you figure out the rest. Now you know the “Jumpsuit Shimmy.” We can all try the dance (while keeping our jumpsuits on) with a virtual Instagram dance party celebrating the release of this collaboration. Just post a video on your grid or stories and tag me @nf_merritts on IG and #thejumpsuitshimmy . There are no prizes in it for you or me, but a 100% guarantee of fun and laughter. Join me?

Whenever I wear a jumpsuit, someone will ask the inevitable question: “What do you do when you have to visit the bathroom?” Ladies and jumpsuit-loving gentlemen, I am here to tell you that the bathroom conundrum really isn’t as much of an issue as you might think. Sure, having your top half uncovered while using the restroom may not be ideal, but it’s literally 1 minute of your day. Are you willing to give up the joy of jumpsuits for a few minutes of awkwardness ( in which nobody else will actually care or notice because you’re by yourself in a stall)? I say, “No!” Honestly, does anyone truly feel comfortable in a bathroom stall any way? Jumpsuit or no jumpsuit? I’ll step off my soapbox here. I’m just really passionate about jumpsuits, ok?

I’m now realizing that I’ve rambled on and on without notes on sizing. I’ll leave you with a few notes. My measurements put me in a 4 at the chest and a 10 at the hips. In order to make this jumpsuit work, I started with a 4 at the shoulders and bust then graded the bodice to a 10 at the waist. I then cut a straight 10 for the pants. I added 1″ in length to the bodice, 1/2″ to the rise on the pants, 1″ to the sleeve length, and 3″ to the pant length. These alterations are all standard for me, and I found the original drafting consistent with the size chart.

If you’ve made it all the way to the end here, I’d just like to say, “Thank you!” My feelings about jumpsuits can be intense and I truly applaud you for reading all the way to the end.

Special thanks to my Instagram (and real life) husband, Marshall for taking these photos. He’s been stepping up his photo taking skills over the last year and it’s been a lot of fun learning this photography thing together.

February 21, 2018October 6, 2018

Joy Jacket by Chalk and Notch

The Chalk and Notch Joy Jacket. Wow! What a pattern! I’m not entirely sure what I can say about it that hasn’t already been said. I’ve been anxiously awaiting its release since last October when Gabriela shared a preview on her IG (here). Following her post, I immediately set out to source my ideal fabrics. After a couple months of searching and indecision, I found this rayon/poly blend twill from Style Maker Fabrics. I’ve always been partial to jewel tones and this fabric was practically calling my name. It has a soft, lovely drape and smooth hand. It was fairly easy to work with as compared to a rayon challis and working with it was similar to the difficulty level of working with a lawn or voile. As someone who primarily works with prints, my only issue was differentiating between the right and wrong sides during assembly.

As mentioned above, I regularly work with prints. While I wanted a solid colored outer shell, I wasn’t about to miss the opportunity to line my Joy with a print. I waffled back and forth between using a bold floral or a simple stripe and eventually decided on this black and white stripe rayon challis from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. Since I plan on regularly wearing this jacket unzipped, I wanted a lining that would be a complement to my somewhat bold wardrobe. I love this lining so much that I also used it to line the sleeves of my Clare Coat. I have nothing but good things to say about this fabric (and that amazing price). The only caveat is that I did have to take a few breaks when cutting the lining pieces because those tiny stripes were a bit hard on the eyes after too much concentration.

While sourcing fabric was really only made difficult by my indecisiveness, sourcing the hardware was a bit more difficult. I ordered my zipper from Zipperstop on Etsy (they also have their own website, I just had an Etsy gift card to use). I liked having the option to order a zipper in 1″ increments instead of being forced to buy the standard lengths available through most retailers. Find the specific listing I used here. I believe the color of this zipper is 530 which is not an exact match for this fabric, but certainly close enough.

When it came time to purchase grommets I just picked up these brass Dritz brand ones at my local JoAnn Fabrics. I can’t speak to the durability of these as I’ve only had this jacket for a couple of weeks at this point, but installation was quick and painless. I mean, really? Why did nobody tell me installing grommets was this simple? I would’ve started adding them to projects years ago.

Want to make sourcing hardware simpler? Gabriela will soon be offering a pre-order for hardware kits in several popular colors. I’ll be sure to update you when that’s available.

Now let’s talk about the making of this jacket:

Since I had completed a Clare Coat one week before tackling the Joy, I wasn’t too nervous about making another piece of lined outerwear. I also have full faith in Gabriela’s drafting and instructions and knew I was in good hands. Don’t let the prospect of a lined jacket intimidate you though, the steps are clear and well written.

Honestly, cutting took me longer than the actual jacket construction. There are quite a few pieces to the Joy Jacket which contributed to the longer cutting time. Due to a bit of (manageable) chronic pain in my right hand, I had to take frequent breaks from cutting and took my time over the course of three evenings.

Once I got going, the jacket came together rather quickly. I did have some trouble with the pockets due to tension issues coupled with late-night sewing mistakes. While cutting took me three evenings, sewing only took two. I’m a very hands-on/visual learner and, because of this, sometimes have difficulty understanding written instructions. Thankfully, the pattern includes helpful diagrams all along the way. If you feel you need more help, Gabriela is also planning a detailed sew along set to begin next month.

Now that I’ve pretty well said my piece, can I take a minute to mention a few of my lovely sewing friends? Several of us got together and pitched in to rent a photo studio for an hour for these photos. The photos in this post were taken by my friend Kim of Sweet Red Poppy and I really feel like she’s some sort of photo wizard.

We were also able to get some photos of our Joy Jackets together. The photo below is one of my favorites and will probably end up on my bulletin board in my sewing room. My sewing friends have been a true joy and lifeline over the past year and I feel pretty dang lucky to have them in my life. If you want to read more about their Joy Jackets, read Tiahna’s post here, Tami’s post here, and Rachel’s post here.

Have you heard enough about the Joy Jacket yet? No? If you haven’t already, Head over to Leslie’s post (here) to read more about this patterns origins. Grab a tissue, you might need it.

November 1, 2017August 29, 2018

Matching Loungewear: Brilliant Idea or Fashion Blunder?

Way back in August, my son decided that he wanted to be Spongebob for Halloween and requested that I dress up as Squidward. Part of me was rather proud as I was a Spongebob fan back in the day. In the sixth grade I even got a Spongebob alarm clock for Christmas (It sang the “F.U.N.” song to wake me up and was a real treasure. I’m sure my parents were delighted when it finally broke). I had spent a few weeks puzzling on how to execute my Squidward costume until I was in Denver and Emily made this Blueprints for Sewing Geodesic Sweatshirt. The wheels in my head started turning and I came up with the idea of a matching mint colored loungewear set.

Emily’s lovely mauve french terry inspired me to check the Raspberry Creek Fabrics Etsy shop where I found this solid dark mint french terry. I knew that I would use the Geodesic pattern because I already owned it and had been planning to make the longer version eventually (see my cropped version here). I decided to purchase the True Bias Hudson Pants pattern (here) and the two together make a perfect pair.

I sewed up a size C/D with no alterations in the Geodesic and it all came together rather quickly. My background in quilting is what drew me to the fun geometric lines of the Geodesic and I think it made the construction a little easier as well.

When cutting and sewing the Hudsons, I made a size 10 with the only alteration being an added 4″ in length. I only needed to add 3″ to the length, but I prefer my sweats a little extra long. It probably has something to do with the fact that nearly all rtw sweats are a few inches too short for my legs. Perhaps I’m just making up for years of wearing sweats that look like I’m expecting a flood.

While I’m satisfied with both pieces individually, I’m still not sure that I’m sold on wearing them together. They kind of remind me of the blush velour sweatsuit I owned in middle school and I’m still trying to decide whether or not that’s a good thing. The comfort level of this outfit is unreal. I have been wearing it around the house all day today. I guess the point of loungewear is actual lounging though, so I will certainly wear these together during those times. My biggest question is whether or not I would wear matching loungewear out and about during everyday activities. How do you feel about matching loungewear? Is it something you would wear? How and where would you wear it?

Thanks for reading! I’ll leave you with a quick iPhone shot of our Halloween costumes so you can see how I incorporated these matching separates into my Squidward costume.

October 12, 2017

Hampton Jean Jacket Blog Tour

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Last month, I had the pleasure of meeting Alina of Alina Design Co. When she mentioned that she was hosting a Hampton Jean Jacket tour, I knew joining was my only option. I’d planned to make a Hampton after seeing Leslie’s version last spring (here). When it comes to sewing, I’m a big fan of deadlines. They keep me motivated, challenged, and accountable. This tour was just the deadline I needed to whip myself into shape and get sewing.

I selected a lovely indigo denim from Threadbare Fabrics (this one) and chose not to bleach or distress it. I did, however, decide to add my own personal touch. I’ve always been drawn, to embroidery, but haven’t taken much time to practice and wasn’t quite up for anything too complicated. When searching for inspiration, I came across this fabric and knew that’s what I wanted to replicate on my jacket.

I’ve hand-quilted a few small quilts and pillows before, and used the same supplies and method on my center back piece (minus the batting and backing, of course). I selected two colors of size 5 perle cotton, navy and ecru. The stitching lines are 1/2″ apart, with the stitches being about 1/4″ or less. I didn’t worry too much about the stitches being perfect. I love the uniqueness that these stitches bring to the jacket. That’s the beautiful thing about making your own clothing. Even if one were to make the exact same jacket, with the same details, each jacket would be just as unique as their maker.

Making this jacket was certainly a labor of love. I lost track of the time I spent working on it, but spent at least 15+ hours. Part of those 15 hours were spent removing wonky top-stitching, and less than stellar buttonholes. Every minute spent with my seam ripper was 100% worth it in the end. My top-stitching still has its quirks, but it’s work of which I can be proud.

Don’t let the sewing time or details scare you from trying this pattern. I found the drafting to be impeccable, and everything lined up just right. The instructions were also full of detail and I found Alina’s Hampton Sewalong posts (here) to be invaluable when finishing some of the trickier details like the welt pockets. Finishing this jacket made me feel a bit like a superhero. I keep staring at it hanging in my closet, because I can’t believe that I actually made it. It kind of feels like discovering a superpower. Really, I owe my thanks to Alina for making a pattern that pushed my sewing comfort zone and made me feel oddly powerful. I may also owe a bit of thanks to my college sewing teacher, Lu, who taught me how to sew flat fell seams and was always encouraging, despite my obvious lack of skill.

Just a quick note on sizing: I sewed a size 4, with my only adjustments being 1″ of length to the body of the jacket and 1/2″ of length to the sleeves.

Now, please take a minute to check out the talented ladies also sharing their jackets this week. Then, once you’ve had your fill of inspiration, get to work on a jacket of your own. Be sure to use coupon code “HAMPTONSFORALL” for 15% off the pattern (purchase here). Until this one, I haven’t owned a denim jacket since middle school and am now wondering how I’d gone so long without one. I’m now convinced they’re a closet staple.

Hampton Jean Jacket Fall 2017 Blog Tour

October 9: Helen’s Closet

October 10: A Closet Handmade and Tabi Made

October 11: Straight Stitch Designs

October 12: Match Makes Clothes and Merritts Makes

October 13: Well Fibre

September 18, 2017

True Bias Lander Pants

Today I’m thrilled to show you my True Bias Lander Pants. I was lucky enough to be one of Kelli’s testers for this pattern and couldn’t be happier with my result. These are certainly not my first pair of pants, but there’s just something about the detailing and fit that makes me feel like my sewing skills are suddenly legit. The pants feature a wide leg, button fly, front rectangular patch pockets, and a flattering high waist. There are also three length options: short, ankle, and boot length. If you haven’t already seen them, check out the pattern listing here to see Kelli’s amazing samples and how great they look on her gorgeous silver-haired model.
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I opted to make the boot length option as I plan to wear these regularly throughout the fall and winter months. Wide leg pants have been appealing to me for years, but because of my waist to hip ratio and longer legs, nice fitting ones are nearly impossible to buy off the rack. When Kelli told me she was making a pattern for wide leg pants, I jumped at the chance to test them.

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This denim pair is actually my second pair of Lander Pants. During the testing phase I made an ankle length pair using Essex Linen. The denim is a Robert Kaufman denim purchased from Imagine Gnats (find it here). The fabric is a really nice medium weight and rather comfortable as well. I wore these pants on the plane to Denver last week (more about that trip here). My plane flew out of SLC at 7:30 am so I was nervous to see how my pants would look by the end of the day. Surprisingly, they still looked great by dinner time with only minimal wrinkling from an entire day of wear.

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One of the details I love about these pants is the size of the pockets on both front and back. They’re a great design feature, but it’s their practicality that really wins my heart. One of THE worst parts of many ready to wear women’s pants are the size of the pockets. Does anyone else hate when they’re so small you can’t even fit your phone inside? I mean, what are they? Pockets for ants? I don’t even have a giant phone and I regularly have this problem when shopping for pants. Not planning on having that problem again, because I’m just going to make an array of Lander Pants for all occasions.

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I could write a few hundred more words proclaiming my love for these pants, but I’ll let the photos and the fact that I’ve been wearing them multiple times a week speak for themselves. Kelli is hosting a Lander Pant Sewalong on her blog this week. It’s sure to be filled with lots of helpful hints if you’d like some extra wisdom while making a pair. Check out her first post here.

Thanks for reading! Want to see what else I’ve made using True Bias patterns? Check out my red Lodo Dress in this post.

Photos by my lovely friend Rachel of Little Fish.

If you’ve made it this far I’ll leave you with the gem of a picture below. This is what I look like when I’m afraid that I’ll be hit by a car while “acting natural” and crossing the street. Clearly crossing the street photos will never be one of my signature poses.

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August 24, 2017August 29, 2018

Cali Faye Collection Valley Blouse

Last fall, I was working on a children’s clothing collection to show at Utah Fashion Week. I made a children’s unisex top using this gorgeous double gauze by Cotton & Steel and couldn’t help being a bit jealous of the kids who got to wear it. I rarely make clothing in solid colors, but this teal gauze was too good to ignore. I finally settled on the idea of a using the fabric to make myself a Cali Faye Collection Valley Blouse.

Overall, I really liked the style of the pattern. I did make a few small adjustments to simplify and tailor it to my liking. First, I cut two of the back yoke pieces instead of one as instructed. My reasoning for this was that I wanted the back yoke lined just as the front. When sewing, I sewed the front yoke to the back yoke at the shoulder seams and did the same for the front yoke linings and back yoke lining. I then placed the yoke linings and yoke pieces right sides together and stitched them together along the neckline.

Second, I omitted the front key hole. The neckline is nice and wide which makes the key hole unnecessary as anything but a design feature. To accomplish this, I simply didn’t cut out the key hole. This allowed me to skip a few steps in the construction and attach the bottom front the same way as instructed for the bottom back.

I finished this blouse about a month ago and haven’t had too many chances to wear this top due to the summer heat. This morning I felt a bit of a chill in the air. It made me hopeful that fall is coming soon. I plan to make a nice fitting pair of Ginger Jeans to pair with this top in the cooler months.

Side Note: Did you notice that embarrassingly large crease in the center front and center back? I cut out the pieces about a month before sewing up my top and left thee pieces folded. My poor old cheap iron couldn’t press out those dang creases. I have washed my top a couple of times since taking these photos and the creases are now gone. Any suggestions for a new fairly inexpensive iron? Do I need to look at something more high end?

July 11, 2017

A Weekend Retreat and My Driftless Cardigan

Way back in October of last year, I purchased this gray jersey knit from Suppose and cut out my Driftless Cardigan (find the pattern here). I was clearly getting ahead of myself because I had approximately one billion other deadlines at the time. April came around and I thought to myself, “Life has finally slowed down, I can now finish all of those other projects that I started last fall.” I was wrong. My husband ended up applying for and accepting an amazing new job which meant life was about to get crazy again.

Meanwhile, I attended a blogger meet up in SLC and Sara and I came up with the idea for a small weekend sewing retreat. I spent the next few weeks stressing about my upcoming move and finally decided to pull the trigger on planning a retreat. This mama needed a break. Sara and I set a date, I got permission to use the family cabin, and we began counting the days.

The weekend finally arrived and it turned out to be both rejuvenating and productive. My sewing weekend goal was finishing a pile of unfinished projects so that they would no longer clutter my sewing area. Each of my projects were only a few steps away from completion, but had been sitting unfinished for months. Sewing for an entire weekend allowed me to complete a couple of baby quilts, a quilted pillow cover, two simple baby dresses, and my Driftless Cardigan.

While setting aside time to actually sew this took months; the actual time it took to sew this cardigan was roughly 3 hours. One of those hours was used to hand stitch the neckband. I have loved Grainline Studio patterns for years because of the clean lines and well-executed details. The Driftless Cardigan is a great example of this with its hidden pockets and optional split bottom band. This was completed a month ago and it’s gotten quite a bit of use despite the blazing summer temperatures. It’s perfect for an extra layer at the movie theater (ours is always freezing) or for wearing on chilly evenings.

A quick note on sizing: I sewed up a size 4 and added 2.5 inches to the length at the lengthen/shorten line. I also added about 1.5 inches to the sleeve length because I like my sleeves extra long.

Special thanks goes to Kim of Sweet Red Poppy for taking these lovely photos.