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Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Jeans Comparison with Ginger, Dawn, Philippa, and Morgan

The end of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is nigh. While I haven’t felt quite as productive as last year, I’m still proud of what I was able to accomplish. My last two completed #sewfancypants2020 projects were a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans and a pair of caramel colored Dawn Jeans. After finishing them, I thought it might be helpful to post a comparison of the four different jeans patterns I’ve sewn. Alright here we go, a brief comparison between the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans, Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants, and Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans.

Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Fitting Adjustments

As far as sizing goes, each pair was made based on the pattern maker’s size chart. They’re all somewhere around a size 12. I used mostly the same flat pattern adjustments for each of these patterns but, I’ll detail them a bit here:

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to front and back rise. Added 2″ of total length to the legs (1″ above knees and 1″ below).
  2. To fix the gaping at the center back, I took out a small wedge at the center back of the yoke. I drew a line that started 1/2″ away from the top of the center back and angled to the bottom of the center back yoke. I trimmed the yoke pieces along this line and then sewed everything according to the pattern instructions. FYI: this is definitely not the proper or recommended method, just what worked for me personally.

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

  1. 3/4″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Used the longer length inseam option
Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Back darts extended by 1/2″
  3. 2″ added to leg length
  4. Legs slimmed about 1/2″ total (extra 1/4″ on each side)

Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. 1″ added to leg length.
  3. Removed an extra 1/4″ from the top of the center back seam allowance and angled back to the regular seam allowance just below the back yoke.

Philippa Pants vs. Dawn Jeans

The Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans (view A) are both slightly tapered high rise pants designed for non-stretch fabrics. They’ve got different details but, produce a similar result. For me personally, I found the fit pretty comparable. The details I love about the Philippa Pants are: the generous square back pockets, flat front with no front pockets, and a deep 2″ hem at the bottom. My favorite details about the Dawn Jeans are the traditional jeans details such as the front pockets, coin pocket, and back yoke.

Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans

Ginger Jeans vs. Morgan Jeans

While these two patterns are designed from a slightly different block, I decided to compare them since they’re both from Closet Case Patterns. The Ginger Jeans are designed for stretch denim while the Morgan Jeans are designed for non-stretch denim. The high rise skinny fit of the Ginger Jeans feel a bit more dressed up than the mid rise relaxed fit of the Morgan Jeans. During the winter, Ginger Jeans are my go-to with sweaters and boots while the Morgan Jeans were worn weekly during the summer months.

Ginger Jeans and Morgan Jeans

Final Thoughts

I’ll be honest in saying that it’s difficult for me to pick a favorite between these four jeans as it seems to change weekly. Lately, I’ve been wearing the Philippa Pants on repeat but, have a feeling the Dawn Jeans just might be the next favorite. All four pattern designers provide thorough instructions with the Anna Allen zipper instructions using my favorite zip fly method (the Dawn jeans method is similar). Finding the words for this comparison was a struggle for me so, I decided to focus more on the photos to do the talking. Hoping the photos provide some valuable insight into the basic differences between each pair of jeans. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any specific questions about any of these jeans.

Thanks for reading!

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Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit

I don’t know what it’s been like for you but, summer has had a bit of a slow start here in Utah. The temperatures have seemed cooler than normal for the last couple of months. This last week, all that changed. The summer heat has arrived. Now I’m once again ready to sew all the swimsuits. My family had a neighborhood/church swim party to attend this week and I used it as an excuse/deadline to finally sew up a Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit. The View A with tie back has been tempting me since seeing Sara’s earlier this year. Alright, let’s get into it.

Fabric

In May, I purchased this Ribbed Swim Tricot in Spruce from Blackbird Fabrics. I have a thing for emerald and forest greens (see my Zadie Jumpsuit or Joy Jacket for further proof) and was drawn to the texture of the ribbing. Once the fabric arrived in the mail, I knew I’d made the right choice. The color was spot on and the texture gives it a little more heftiness and security than a regular swim knit. Sewing it was made easier because the extra thickness stopped the fabric from getting eaten by my machine which occasionally happens with swim. It’s a real dream and I’m using all my self control to stop myself from ordering it in additional colors.

Sizing and Alterations

I think this is my favorite part of sewing a custom swimsuit. There’s something powerful in taking your body and its measurements back from the ready to wear industry and making something that fits just right. Swimsuit shopping used to leave me feeling odd and unnatural. Swimsuit sewing leaves me feeling empowered.

Following the Cottesloe size chart, my measurements put me in a 4 bust with a 12 at the waist and hip. Taking this into account, I used a 4 until just below the bust and then graded out to a 12 for the rest of the suit. As usual, a little extra length was needed so I added 1/2″ in length to the front and back straps and 1″ to the length at the lengthen/shorten line. The last adjustment I made was adding a little big more coverage for the booty. I added about 1/2″ to the back leg openings, tapering that amount to meet the seam allowances on either side. With those alterations done, I was ready to sew.

Construction

The suit came together pretty quickly once I started sewing. With my pieces already cut (completed the previous night), I was able to sew the suit together in a day. This day included regular mom duties and a family lunch date. If I had sewn all at once, it probably would’ve taken 2-3 hours.

I opted to add foam cups and fully line the whole suit. When I’m nearly nude in public, I tend to prefer the security that extra layer of fabric provides (even if it’s a false sense of security). There are instructions for both a fully lined suit or a shelf bra in the pattern. During the construction I had one momentary panic when I noticed the cups seemed to be sewn in lopsided. I had carefully tried on and pinned the cups and couldn’t figure out how I’d gone wrong. Upon trying on the suit, I noticed that things didn’t look lopsided at all. Turns out my chest is just a bit more asymmetrical than I’d thought. Just one of the many perks of sewing; I learn new things about my body all the time.

The simplicity of the suit and straightforward instructions made this a joy to sew. This was the third suit I’ve sewn for myself and one of the easiest. While my skills have certainly improved since my first suit in 2015 (that was NOT easy), I would credit some of that ease to a perfectly simple pattern. If you’re a beginner, this pattern is a great place to start.

Final Thoughts

After testing it out for an evening, I have no complaints. The suit held up, kept me covered, and made me feel great. The only thing I would change if making this suit a second time would be moving the back ties up about an inch. I inserted them a bit low. I have a feeling this suit will have a place in my summer wardrobe for years to come. Having a good, basic, one-piece will never go out of style. My next swim venture will hopefully be making some swim separates out of my leftover fabric. If you have favorite two piece swim patterns, I’d love your suggestions.

Thanks for reading! Now, please get back to thoroughly enjoying your summer. I know I will!

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Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater

It’s mid-way through December and the holiday season is in full swing around here. I had lofty sewing goals for December that had to be trimmed thanks to a minor, but unexpected hand surgery. Once I found out that surgery was necessary, I decided to drop all sewing plans except the Archer I posted last week. Had surgery just over a week ago and am feeling quite well. Thanks to a clear schedule (in case I wasn’t feeling well) and a nicely replenished fabric stash, I felt like sewing this week. On Monday afternoon I knocked out a bit of Christmas sewing and on Tuesday decided to sew up this Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater for myself. I mashed up the sleeves of View A with the curved hemline of View B to make a perfectly simple oversized sweater. 

Choosing the Fabric

I usually don’t have a large fabric stash for projects sewn on a whim, but I’ve tried to add a few favorites over the last few months. This organic hemp fleece from D & H Fabrics was begging to become a cozy sweater. It’s a mid-weight sweatshirt fleece with 2-way stretch and pillowy soft backside. It’s one of those fabrics that everyone should have in their stash ready and waiting for the next cozy sweatshirt pattern to come along. 


After the release of the Jarrah, I started looking for good ribbing. I usually just use a self fabric for ribbing, but have been inspired by all the matching ribbing I’ve seen lately. One night I was browsing Etsy, when I decided to search sweatshirt ribbing. I looked at several options before finding this black striped ribbing and falling in love. The black, mustard, and grey mixed with gold read as a combination that could be fun without looking childish. Although I found the ribbing on Etsy, Miekkie Fabrics also has a website (here) with a larger selection of fabrics and ribbing. I opted to purchase through Etsy since I had a gift card, but will likely purchase from their site in the future.  (Just a heads up: Miekkie Fabrics is based in Poland so the ribbing took about 3 weeks to arrive in the United States. ) Once the ribbing arrived, I was pleased with it’s weight and quality. My only complaint would be that when I ordered a quantity of 3, my ribbing was sent in 3 90cm pieces instead of one continuous piece. I didn’t ask for it to be continuous, so this was likely user error. Next time I will contact them before and ask if a continuous piece is possible. 

Fitting

Now, let’s take a minute to talk fit. According to the pattern sizing chart, my bust is right between that of a 2 and a 4 with my hip at a 12. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I noted that there was plenty of ease and too much grading up wouldn’t be necessary. Quickly, I settled on using a 4 at the bust and grading to a 6 at the hips. My only other adjustment was the regular length adjustment. I added 1.25″ to the sleeves and 1.5″ to the front and back pieces. Overall, I’m rather pleased with the fit although as a personal preference I could’ve added another .5″ to the sleeve length. 

Construction

Besides finishing a garment, sewing one up is my favorite part and there’s nothing that satisfies the need to sew like a quick and easy sweater. My son attends Kindergarten in the afternoon and this occasionally gives me two free hours to clean, grocery shop, or sew (I usually choose sewing). On Tuesday morning I assembled the pattern and cut my fabric. After dropping my son off at school, I grabbed my favorite drink (A Starbucks Caramel Apple Spice), put a movie on Netflix, and began sewing. Construction went quickly without any major mistakes and I was able to finish the entire sweater before heading back out the door to pick up my son. 

Overall, the outcome of my Tuesday afternoon sewing was successful. I satisfied the my need to sew, gained a cozy sweatshirt, and began a love affair with sweatshirt ribbing (Seriously, send me all your favorite sources for fabric with matching ribbing because I want to use it in every future sweatshirt). Next, I plan to find a good pink sweatshirt fleece to make a Jarrah in the knot front View C since I already have another striped ready for that project. What are you making for the holidays? Are you sewing for others or getting in some good selfish sewing as I did here?

Thanks for reading!

Want to see more projects I’ve made with fabrics from D&H Fabrics? Check out my Kaste Dress or Mila Shirt.

Ready for more winter sewing projects? Read about my Gemma Sweater, Clare Coat, or Toaster Sweater.