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Sew Some Fancy Pants : New Pant Sewing Pattern Round Up

Hello fellow sewists of the internet! It’s been a bit and I’m not even sure I know how to write a blog post anymore. The last six months have been a wild ride and unfortunately sewing and blogging had to be put on the back burner so that I could teach my son, parent in a pandemic, maintain a smaller workload and provide support to loved ones. None of these are bad things and I’m grateful for the opportunities I’ve had to do all of them. 

However, I’ve missed being actively engaged in the sewing community and especially missed Sew Fancy Pants and hosting/co-hosting the event this year. Up until fall of 2020, I’d still planned to host a Sew Fancy Pants 2021 event and had been rounding up new pants patterns in anticipation of doing so. 

So, here’s a round up of newer pants patterns as of January 2021. This is not an exhaustive list and I’m sure there are great patterns I’ve missed. If there’s a pattern you think I should include please leave a comment below or feel free to contact me.

Note: after feedback from last year’s post, I’ve decided to include min-max waist and hip measurements as well as only including patterns that go up to at least a 57” hip. 

NEW PANTS PATTERN ROUND UP

Jeans

Almost no pants are more iconic than jeans. Thanks to the world of indie sewing patterns, sewing jeans is more accessible than ever and easier than one might think!

Noice Jeans by Muna and Broad: I’ve loved watching Leila and Jess work on this pattern throughout the year! With a high waist and a wide leg or more traditional “mom jean” style straight leg, these jeans have both versatility and practicality. Size Range – Waist: 36”-60” (91-152 cm) Hip: 41.5”-71.5” (105-182cm) Note: Muna and Broad has a policy where they’ll grade a pattern to your size if your measurements are currently outside the upper end of their size range. Anyone can support this effort by supporting them on Patreon.

Halfmoon 101 Jeans by Halfmoon Atelier: The Halfmoon 101 jeans are designed with a low rise and straight leg, perfect for those who just don’t love a high waisted jean. Details  Size Range – Waist: 23.5-56.75” (60-144 cm) Hip: 33.75-67” (86-170 cm) 

Mountain View Pull on Jeans by Itch to Stitch: While not a new pattern, the Mountain View Jeans were updated over the last year to include a larger range of sizes. If you’d like to dip your toes into jeans sewing, love stretch denim and closures like zippers and buttons aren’t your jam, these might be a great place to start. Size Range – Waist: 25.38-54.25” (64.5-138 cm) Hip: 33-62” (84-157.5 cm)

Claryville Jeans by Workroom Social: The Claryville Jeans were actually re-released in late 2019 but I neglected to include them in last year’s round up and decided they deserve a mention. With a classic mid rise and straight leg, they’re on my personal to-sew list. Size Range – Waist: 25.5-48.5” (64.8-123.2 cm) Hip: 37-60” (94-152.4 cm)

Beginner Friendly/Elastic Waist Pants: 

I can’t remember who said it, but I heard another sewist refer to elastic waist pants as “soft pants” and it’s my favorite description. Soft pants have been part of my everyday wardrobe for the last year and I love how they’re also a great way to get into sewing pants.

Arden Pants by Helen’s Closet: The Arden pants are a classic high waisted casual pant with a slightly tapered leg or jogger style cuffs. Size Range – Waist: 24-48” (61-122 cm) Hip: 33-58” (84-147.5cm) 

Arthur Pants by Sew Liberated: If you’re looking for a casual statement pant, look no further than the Arthur pants. With a front fly pleated view or gathered elastic waist view, these pants have volume for days and I really want to make a pair. Size Range – Waist 25-48.5” (64-123 cm) Hip: 33.5-57” (85-145 cm) 

Arenite Pants by Sew Liberated: The Arenite Pants are hands down my favorite pants in my wardrobe. The pattern has been around for a few years but was just recently updated with a larger size range and with a knit option. I’m thrilled that more sewists will get to experience the joy of my favorite deep roomy pockets. Size Range – Waist: 25-52.5” (64-133 cm) Hip: 33.5-61” (85-155 cm)

Opal Pants by Megan Nielsen Patterns: The Opal pants are high waisted with options for a paper bag waist or regular waistband and tapered or wide legs. Size Range – Waist: 24-48” (61-122 cm) Hip: 34-58” (86-147 cm)

All Well Studio Pants:  The All Well studio pants feature a flat front or traditional elastic waist, tapered leg and two pocket options, perfect for those wanting to dip their toes into the world of pants making. Another thing that’s fantastic about this pattern is the “pay what you can” pricing which makes them accessible to more sewists across the board. Size Range – Waist: 24-60” (60.5-152 cm) Hip: 34-70” (86-177.5 cm)

Pio Pants by Ready to Sew: The Pio Pants are another high waisted elastic pant with roomy pockets. Size Range – Waist: 24.2-48.8” (61.5-124 cm) Hip: 35-59.4” (89-151 cm) 

Papao Wrap Pants by Ready to Sew : Another statement pant, the Papao Pants are a tapered leg wrap style pant with a tie closure (no buttons or zippers, yay!). Size Range – Waist: 24.2-48.8” (61.5-124 cm) Hip: 35-59.4” (89-151 cm) 

Willandra Pants by Muna and Broad: The Willandra Pants are a slightly dressier elastic waist pant with a flat front, tapered leg, and a diagonal side seam that adds a special bit of visual interest. Size Range – Waist: 36”-60”” (91-152cm) Hip: 41.5”-71.5” (105-182cm) 

Sculthorpe Pants by Muna and Broad: The Sculthorpe Pants feature a tapered leg, deep v-shaped side pockets and a fully elasticated waist. Size Range – Waist: 36”-60”” (91-152cm) Hip: 41.5”-71.5” (105-182cm) 

Trousers:

While trousers likely weren’t the most worn pants of the last year, I’m hopeful that in the next year, we’ll have more opportunities to wear such fancy pants.

Nita Trousers by Amy Nicole Studio: The Nita Trousers are a classic tapered leg trouser with one view. They include all the trouser essentials: front pleats, slash pockets, and back welt pockets. Size Range – Waist: 24-50.5” (61-128.3 cm) Hip: 34.5-61” (87.6-155 cm)

Cass Pant by Make by TFS: The Cass pant is another single view trouser pattern with a mid rise, zip front, and wide leg. Size Range – Waist: 22.4-51.8” (57-131.5 cm) Hip: 34.3-62.8” (87-159.5 cm) Note: This is another pattern company who will grade the pattern to your size if you fall outside their current size range. More details can be found in the pattern listing. 

Jumpsuits/Misc:

Nova Jumpsuit by True Bias:  Looking for a comfy, casual stay at home uniform? The Nova is a relaxed fit jumpsuit that just may fit the bill. Size Range – Waist: 26-50.5” (66-128 cm) Hip: 34-59.5” (86-151 cm)

Patsy Overalls by Ready to Sew: Featuring a slightly gathered top, tie closure, large pockets, and relaxed fit, the Patsy Overalls look like the perfect overall pattern for a beginner or someone looking for a more casual overall. Size Range – Waist: 24.2-48.8” (61.5-124 cm) Hip: 35-59.4” (89-151 cm) 

Sundial Leggings by Greenstyle Creations: Leggings are the perfect option for those who want to sew leg coverings without worrying too much about fitting as knit fabrics can be quite forgiving. The Sundial Leggings have a lower rise v-shaped waistband or full coverage full waistband with no side seam. Size Range – Waist: 22-57” (55.8-144.7 cm) Hip: 32-62” (81.3-157.5 cm)

Chandler Pants and Heather Blazer bundle by Untitled Thoughts and Friday Pattern Company: Ok, I know this isn’t exclusively pants but, after a year spent mostly in loungewear I’m dreaming of dressing up in a full suit. This combination seems like a great way for beginners and more experienced sewists that want the look of a suit without much tailoring work. I’m thinking they’d make a great non-birthday suit, birthday suit. Maybe manifesting that here means I might actually start on this by April? Pants Size Range – Waist: 24-50” (60.9-127 cm) Hip: 34-58” (87-148 cm) Blazer Size Range – Chest: 32-60” (81-152 cm)

Thank you for reading!

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Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Hello! After posting regularly during January, it feels like it’s been a minute. I cut these Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks during the last week of Sew Fancy Pants, sewed them the following week, and finally got them photographed last week. There’s been an ebb and flow to my sewing practice as of late. I’m slowly learning to embrace it. Enough about me: Let’s talk about these pants.

Inspiration

I’ve had these Topshop menswear inspired trousers pinned on my sewing inspiration board for several months now. When it came time for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew this was a look I wanted to recreate.

Fabric

Here’s where I sing the praises of Tammy from D & H Fabrics because she’s a master fabric “sourcerer.” Upon emailing back and forth with Tammy, I sent her the above inspiration photo. Within hours, she’d found this fabric and suggested it. This Tencel Pin Stripe Pique has a beautiful, fluid drape and a subtle pique texture that reminds me of a formal button up shirt. It’s lightweight enough for summer wear, while still keeping my legs decently warm in mild winter weather. If it was terribly cold, I’d probably slip on a pair of leggings underneath.

Sizing and Adjustments

Since these are elastic waist pants, I opted for just a few flat pattern alterations. These pants are a size 10 with 1/2″ added to the rise and 1.5″ added to the leg length. The only adjustment made during construction was slightly tapering the inseam by about 1/8″ near the ankles. This took out a total of 1/4″ from the leg width.

Construction

Construction was done in 30-45 minute sessions over the course of about 5 days. I didn’t keep an accurate count of time but, would estimate the total sewing time to be just over three hours. Instructions were straightforward with no major sewing hiccups throughout the process. It was a truly enjoyable change of pace after sewing two pairs of jeans in row.

Final Thoughts

I fell asleep in these pants the other day which either speaks to their extreme comfort level or my exhaustion level. Let’s go with the comfort narrative because they’re divine.

My biggest qualm with these pants is the waistband. The elastic I used is likely too soft for the weight of a pair of pants and tries to roll despite being stitched in place at the seams. I’m considering going back and zig-zagging through the elastic for more of a shirred waistband look. This would also solve the problem I have of needing to adjust the waistband gathering every time I stand up. If I made this pattern again, my one other adjustment will be to interface the pocket facing. One of my pocket openings got a little stretched out during construction and doesn’t quite lay flat against my body. It’s not terribly noticeable in this fabric, just something I would change for future pairs.

Overall, I’m happy with the final result of these pants and plan to try this pattern again with the small modifications mentioned above. The fabric feels simultaneously casual and luxurious. In fact, I’m contemplating ordering a bit more to make either a matching top or jacket (Maybe the Helen’s Closet Pona Jacket?). Now that I’ve finished this last pair of pants, I think I’ll wait a month or two before sewing another pair, you know, unless some shiny new pattern catches my eye.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Jeans Comparison with Ginger, Dawn, Philippa, and Morgan

The end of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is nigh. While I haven’t felt quite as productive as last year, I’m still proud of what I was able to accomplish. My last two completed #sewfancypants2020 projects were a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans and a pair of caramel colored Dawn Jeans. After finishing them, I thought it might be helpful to post a comparison of the four different jeans patterns I’ve sewn. Alright here we go, a brief comparison between the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans, Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants, and Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans.

Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Fitting Adjustments

As far as sizing goes, each pair was made based on the pattern maker’s size chart. They’re all somewhere around a size 12. I used mostly the same flat pattern adjustments for each of these patterns but, I’ll detail them a bit here:

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to front and back rise. Added 2″ of total length to the legs (1″ above knees and 1″ below).
  2. To fix the gaping at the center back, I took out a small wedge at the center back of the yoke. I drew a line that started 1/2″ away from the top of the center back and angled to the bottom of the center back yoke. I trimmed the yoke pieces along this line and then sewed everything according to the pattern instructions. FYI: this is definitely not the proper or recommended method, just what worked for me personally.

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

  1. 3/4″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Used the longer length inseam option
Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Back darts extended by 1/2″
  3. 2″ added to leg length
  4. Legs slimmed about 1/2″ total (extra 1/4″ on each side)

Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. 1″ added to leg length.
  3. Removed an extra 1/4″ from the top of the center back seam allowance and angled back to the regular seam allowance just below the back yoke.

Philippa Pants vs. Dawn Jeans

The Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans (view A) are both slightly tapered high rise pants designed for non-stretch fabrics. They’ve got different details but, produce a similar result. For me personally, I found the fit pretty comparable. The details I love about the Philippa Pants are: the generous square back pockets, flat front with no front pockets, and a deep 2″ hem at the bottom. My favorite details about the Dawn Jeans are the traditional jeans details such as the front pockets, coin pocket, and back yoke.

Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans

Ginger Jeans vs. Morgan Jeans

While these two patterns are designed from a slightly different block, I decided to compare them since they’re both from Closet Case Patterns. The Ginger Jeans are designed for stretch denim while the Morgan Jeans are designed for non-stretch denim. The high rise skinny fit of the Ginger Jeans feel a bit more dressed up than the mid rise relaxed fit of the Morgan Jeans. During the winter, Ginger Jeans are my go-to with sweaters and boots while the Morgan Jeans were worn weekly during the summer months.

Ginger Jeans and Morgan Jeans

Final Thoughts

I’ll be honest in saying that it’s difficult for me to pick a favorite between these four jeans as it seems to change weekly. Lately, I’ve been wearing the Philippa Pants on repeat but, have a feeling the Dawn Jeans just might be the next favorite. All four pattern designers provide thorough instructions with the Anna Allen zipper instructions using my favorite zip fly method (the Dawn jeans method is similar). Finding the words for this comparison was a struggle for me so, I decided to focus more on the photos to do the talking. Hoping the photos provide some valuable insight into the basic differences between each pair of jeans. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any specific questions about any of these jeans.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020 Week 3: Fitting Tips and Tricks Round Up

Fitting…Ahhhhhhh!!!!!!! Does your mind fill with terror at the thought of fitting pants? Does the mention of fit induce panic? Never fear! The fitting fairy is here. Kidding. I’m no fitting expert and won’t proclaim to be one. However, I am here to link you up to some and reassure you that fitting doesn’t have to be scary. In fact, it can be fun and quite informative. Still, frustrations will likely occur.

Here’s the truth. I’ve sewn somewhere around 30 pairs of pants for myself. Around 20 of them were sewn when I hit my pants making stride within the last two years. Even after sewing all of those pants, I can’t proclaim that I’ve ever achieved what one would call a “perfect” fit. Have I achieved a fit that felt close? Sure. I’m of the “done is better than perfect” mindset when it comes to sewing and; fitting is no different. When you spend too much time fitting, you run the risk of overfitting. Some wrinkles are ok and necessary (Anna Allen communicates these thoughts well in this IG post).

In my opinion, the most important questions one should ask when making and fitting pants are:

1. Are these pants comfortable? Can I complete daily tasks while wearing them?

2. How do I feel in these pants? Do they make me want to hide or do I want to show them to the world?

As an aside here: If you initially have negative or neutral feelings about the fit of your pants, it’s sometimes a good idea to set them aside and come back to them a few days or weeks later. Wear them around the house, give them a shot. If they’re still not for you at that point, it’s ok to let them go.

Alright, hopping off of my soapbox now. Let’s get to those resources.

Taking Measurements

Having accurate measurements is the essential first step to getting a good fit. Back in my college sewing class, we took measurements by donning a nylon suit, grabbing a partner, and measuring each other behind a privacy screen. Now, I take my measurements on my own a couple of times per year. If you’re want to make sure you’re taking accurate measurements, I’d suggest checking out this How to Measure Your Body post from Gabby’s Fitting Series on the Sewcialists blog. Seriously, check out all of Gabby’s posts on fitting. They’re excellent.

If you’re looking at an alternate way to get some insight into your personal fitting details, Naomi of HandmadePhD has a great post titled: Quick Sloper using Duct Tape. She is serious about fit, and her knowledge and dedication always inspires me.

Making a Muslin

I’ll be the first to admit that I rarely make muslins. They’re a valuable tool and SO helpful. I’m just not great at forcing myself to make them. I do, however, make muslins when sewing for other people or pattern testing. I’ve also been known to make them when my final project uses precious fabric. The ladies of Sew Altered Style have made a great case for sewing a muslin in their post, The Ultimate Guide to Making Muslins. It’s important, so, “Do as I say, not as I do?”

Even after you’ve worked out issues in a muslin, make sure to do a baste fitting with your final fabric since different contents and weaves will behave differently.

Common Fitting Adjustments

While I have yet to try it myself, the book Pants for Real People comes highly recommended from many pant sewists. I currently have it on hold at my local library and will report back after checking it out. Since it’s out of print, your local library or purchasing the kindle e-book version (here) are probably your best bet.

Many pattern companies have support for fitting their specific pant patterns via sewalongs and blog posts. A quick google search will often bring up others who’ve made a pattern and provided insights. I’ve found them to be quite helpful even when not using those specific patterns. Here’s a list of some of my most visited fitting posts:

Closet Case Patterns Jean Fitting Adjustments for Your Best Fitting Jeans

Closet Case Patterns Pants Fitting Adjustments: Best Tips for Pants Fitting the Sasha Trousers

Itch to Stitch Liana Jeans Sewalong

Chalk & Notch Crew Fitting & Custom Adjustments

Melly Sews A Guide To Pants Fitting Problems – Sew Pants That Fit You

Final Fitting Thoughts/Advice

You’ve got this! I believe in you! The best piece of advice I can give you is to pick one or two things that are most important in your personal pants fit (comfort, non-gaping waistband, roomy calves, etc.). Once you’ve determined those things, focus on one at a time. There’s a learning curve (perhaps, curves?) to fit so don’t expect perfection on your first try. Trial and error is often the best way to learn these things. Give yourself some grace and pat yourself on the back for making the effort. Need more help? Reach out to the sewing community in a Facebook group or using the #sewingsos on Instagram. Often pattern makers are happy to help fit their patterns as well. Wishing you luck in your pants fitting endeavors!

Don’t want to spend too much time fitting? Check out this great round up of Easy to Fit Pants by Sew Altered Style.

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Personal Sewing Plans

Hello! What a wonderful, busy week it’s been. Today I’m sharing one last pattern post as part of Sew Fancy Pants 2020. This post is all about my personal sewing plans for the month. As you read, please keep in mind that I’ve been planning and prepping these projects for months. You do not need to make more than one project to take part in Sew Fancy Pants, in fact, you only need to try and show progress. Post your progress and projects on Instagram using the #sewfancypants2020 and we’ll all celebrate your accomplishments together. Now, here’s what I have planned for the month.

Project 1: Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers

I know, I’ve already shared a post about these pants (original post here) but, I love them so much that they’re worth mentioning. With my son still out of school for the holiday break, I knew sewing time would be short. I needed a quick, easy, win. Knit pants like the Joan Trousers are a great option when you don’t want to fuss too much with fitting details or fancy finishes. If you’re looking for a quick project during the month, the True Bias Hudson Pants and Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings are also good options.

Project 2: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

Since making my first pair of Ginger Jeans in January 2018 (read about my other Ginger Jeans here, here and here) I’ve wanted a true black pair. During Black Friday sales, I purchased a few yards of true black denim from Threadbare Fabrics. A black pair of skinny jeans feels classic. I have a feeling that I’ll continue wearing them long after skinny jeans have gone out of style.

Project 3: Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

Inspired by the (this specific pair) Jesse Kamm Ranger Pant, the Dawn Jeans are a project I’ve wanted to try since last year’s Sew Fancy Pants. I’ll be using light brown cotton twill left over from my most worn pair of Persephone Pants (here) that should work a treat. Hoping they’ll become a fast favorite. This will be the first new-to-me pant pattern of the month, so be prepared for some detailed fitting stories and a Philipa Pant vs. Dawn Jeans comparison coming during week 3.

Project 4: Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Easy to wear woven pants with an elastic waist became wardrobe staples last year. The Free Range Slacks have a side panel detail that closely matches this Pinterest inspiration. I’ll be using a stripe from D & H Fabrics. Looking forward to making this happen at the end of the month.

Project 5 (Stretch Goal): Misusu Patterns Alex Jogger Pants

My son is in desperate need of new sweatpants after growing out of his favorite pairs of True Bias Hudson Pants. If time permits, I’m planning to sew some Misusu Patterns Alex Pants and use scraps to color block a few pairs.

There you have it. I have lofty goals for the month and I’m crossing my fingers that they’ll all come to fruition. Regardless of how the projects go, I’ll share progress here and on Instagram so, stay tuned!

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020 Week 1: New Pant Pattern Round Up

Week one of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is off to a rousing start! Yesterday I shared my first project, a pair of Joan Trousers (see post here), tomorrow I’ll be sharing my personal sewing plans for the month, and today, I’ve got a round up of new (within the last year) pant/trouser patterns. Since last year’s posts included a lot of patterns, I thought that I’d focus on new patterns for this year. Before we get going, here are some links to last years posts including more pattern and fabric inspiration.

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Beginner Edition

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Intermediate/Advanced Trouser Edition

Sew Fancy Pants Inspiration Jeans Edition

Traditional Trousers/Pants

Chalk and Notch Crew Shorts and Trousers: The Crew Trousers include a pleated front, tapered legs, side zip, and tie belt. With thorough instructions, they’re a great place for an advanced beginner to start. Size Range waist: 25-43″ (63.5-109 cm) hip: 35-53″ (89-135 cm)

By Hand London Jackie Trousers: The pleated front, fly zip, and slightly tapered leg are a nod to menswear that I can get behind. Size Range (note: the measurements for this pattern are the finished measurements)- waist: 29-47.75″ (73.5-121 cm) hip: 45.25-63.5″ (115.5-161.5 cm)

Opian Vaulion Trousers: These beauties feature center leg seams on front and back with diagonal pockets that add interest. Size Range waist: 22- 37.75″ (56-96 cm) hip: 32.25-48″ (82-122 cm)

Casual Elastic Waist Trousers/Pants

Muna and Broad Glebe Pants: With a fantastic plus-size size range, the Glebe Pants are a welcome new addition to the sewing community. They include wide legs and options for a flat front or fully elasticated waist. Size Range waist: 40-60″ (101.5-152cm) hip: 46.5-71.5″ (118-181.5 cm)

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks: These slacks include options for a straight, cropped leg or a tapered leg. The side panels are my favorite detail and add great opportunity for color blocking or playing with stripes. Size Range waist: 23.5-39.5″ (60-100 cm) hip: 34-50″ (86-127 cm)

Made by Rae Rose: This much anticipated pattern includes a high rise, wide leg, flat, pleated front, and three lengths: shorts, crop, and long. Size Range waist: 26.5-51″ (67-130 cm) hip: 34.5-59″ (88-150 cm)

Paper Theory Miller Trouser: These trousers include the option for either an elasticated or tie waist. Other features are back darts and tapered legs. Size Range waist: 24-47.5″ (61-121 cm) hip: 34-57.5″ (86-146 cm)

Closet Case Patterns Pietra Shorts and Pants: With paneled fronts, angled pockets, and options for a wide or tapered leg, it’s easy to see why this pattern has been seen all over the sewing community. Size Range waist: 24-39″ (61-99 cm) hip: 33-48″ (84-122 cm)

Pants with Extra Fancy Details

Digital Pattern Library Empire Trousers: These trousers feature a wide leg, pleated front, and unique stepped waistband. Ties around the legs are an optional feature. Size Range waist: 24-44.75″ (61-114 cm) hip: 33-54″ (84-137 cm)

In the Folds Darlow Pants: The abundance of style lines and curved seams make these pants a blank canvas for all things fancy. Adding details such as piping, color blocking, or contrast topstitching would easily highlight the distinctive design. Size Range waist: 24-45.625″ (61-116 cm) hip: 33-54.75″ (84-139 cm)

Pants with a Vintage Vibe

Anna Allen Philippa Pants: My Philippa Pants (post here) have become my go-to pants. The simple pocket-free front, high waist and tapered legs make me feel like a million bucks. Size Range waist: 24-41″ (61-104 cm) hip: 34-51″ (86-129.5 cm)

Tilly and the Buttons Jessa Trousers: With flared legs, patch pockets, and a high waist, the 1970’s vibes are strong with these ones. Size Range waist: 24-38″ (61-96.5 cm) hip: 33-47″ (84-119.5 cm)

Itch to Stitch Gobi Culottes: Ten years ago, I owned a ready-to-wear pair of pants very similar to the Gobi Culottes. The 1980’s vibes set them apart from many currently available pant patterns. Size Range waist: 24.38-40.5″ (64.5-103 cm) hip: 33.25-48″ (84.5-122 cm)

Pants that are a Little More than Pants

Helen’s Closet Yanta Overalls: A relaxed, modern twist on overalls, I’ve been dreaming of making a pair since their release. Size Range waist: 24-48″ (61-122 cm) hip: 33-58″ (84-147.5 cm)

CocoWawa Raspberry Jumpsuit: Including several strap options, and bodice shirring, the Raspberry jumpsuit is a perfect option for those doing a bit of summer sewing. Size Range waist: 23-41″ (59-104 cm) hip: 31-49″ (80-125 cm)

Assembly Line V-Neck Jumpsuit: This one may be a little harder to acquire as it’s only available in printed form at the moment. However, the uncomplicated minimalist look has me searching for US stockists and pulling out the tracing tools. Size Range waist: 25-44″ (64-112 cm) hip: 35.75-52.75″ (91-134 cm)

There you have it. Just a sampling of this last year’s newly released pant patterns. Do you have a favorite? Is there one you love that I’ve missed?

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Joan Trousers with Bonus Sheridan Sweater

Hello! Wishing you all a happy new year! Yesterday, in an ostentatious end to 2019, I finished my first Sew Fancy Pants project: A pair of polka dotted Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with accompanying Hey June Sheridan Sweater. Now I’m wondering how I’ve lived my life without a matching set such as this one. Read on for all the details.

Fabric

I’ve had my eye on this Double Face Sweater Knit from La Mercerie since Adrianna of Hey June used it for her Evans Blazer sample. I promised myself that if La Mercerie had a Black Friday sale and this was still available then, I could buy it. Thankfully, the fabric gods were on my side and I was able to purchase 3.5 yards.

What’s that? Oh, you noticed those matching earrings? Why, yes. I did make them specifically to match this outfit.

Sheridan Sweater

Adrianna’s Polka Dot Sheridan Sweater (sample in listing photos) was actually the catalyst behind this entire outfit. Upon seeing it, I was smitten with the bell sleeves and couldn’t get the idea of a matching sweater set out of my head. The shape of the sweater combined with this polka dot fabric feels a little bit 1960’s mod and I am here for it.

This Sheridan is view B with bell sleeves. Size is a 6 graded to a 10 at the hips with 1″ of length added to the bodice and sleeves.

Sewing the Sheridan took about two hours including the time it took me to sit down and eat breakfast with my son. Really, it was that easy. Now I need to hurry up and order more of this fabric to make a Sheridan Dress.

Joan Trousers

Friday Pattern Company describes the Joan Trousers as “treggings” (trouser/leggings). It’s an accurate description of a clothing item I didn’t know I needed in my life. They combine the comfort of pajama pants with the look of tailored trousers (pockets! belt loops! faux button front waistband!) Sure, they look more casual in this particular fabric but, in a nice solid ponte or double knit, they’d be office ready in no time.

This time around I used all the same adjustments made to my first pair. Sewed a size large with 1/2″ added to the front and back rise, and 3″ added to the length (Just FYI: since this pattern doesn’t include a lengthen shorten line at the rise, I simply added the 1/2″ to the top of the front and back pieces as well as the pocket and pocket lining pieces). Again, I chose to slightly taper the straight, wide legs for a slight cigarette pant look. These ones are tapered slightly less than my first pair as I was worried about this particular fabric looking like leggings if too slim.

Construction took somewhere between 3-4 hours. This time around, I paid careful attention to my markings and sewing went off without a hitch. Sewing instructions were straightforward with the trickiest part being the attachment of elastic to inner waistband. Sewing might have been even quicker if I hadn’t worn them around for a few minutes while determining a final hem length.

Final Thoughts

Despite the fact that my son called this outfit pajamas (“Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”), I will proudly wear this outfit both separately and together in public. Separately, the trousers will likely be paired with one of my many Nikko Tops for a polished, business casual look. The Sheridan will look just right paired with high waisted jeans or wide leg pants. In fact, I’m just about to try it on with a few pairs of my handmade pants to determine my favorite pairing. Will report back.

Pretty sure this photo was snapped at the exact moment my son said, “Mom! Your earrings match your pajamas!”

This was my second time sewing up a pair of Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers with the intention of a matching set. The first time they were paired with the Hey June Evans Blazer (read more about that set here). Clearly, I have a thing with pairing patterns from the two companies. Perhaps next time, I should mix it up by sewing a pair of Hey June Pants and wearing it with a Friday Pattern Company top? Now, which ones to choose? Adrienne Blouse and Kendrick Overalls? Maybe a Wilder Top and Bryce Cargo Pants? Let me know what you think below!

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants Project 5: Closet Case Patterns Jenny Overalls

Hello again! Today I’m back on the #sewfancypants train with this pair of tapered leg Jenny Overalls. I’ve loved overalls for as long as I can remember and can find at least three “first day of school” pictures in which I’m wearing a pair. Surprisingly, I was on the fence about this pattern for a while until seeing Sara’s tapered corduroy Jenny Overalls. Her version won me over and I knew these were the pants I needed in my life. In fact, these were the first pants I planned when throwing around the idea of the Sew Fancy Pants challenge.

Fabric

Often I plan projects after finding the perfect fabric, this time though, I planned this project around the pattern. After searching through several online shops, I saw this 14 oz Cone Mills Dark Olive Denim (use code ‘Fancy15’ to save 15% through Jan. 31st) from Sewing Studio. Karleen was kind enough to send me this fabric for use in this post and I was delighted when it arrived. The deep color and substantial weight of this denim is perfect for a hefty, durable pair of overalls. I was nervous that my machine would have difficulty handling several layers, but with fresh, sharp denim needles it handled just fine. Only one needle was sacrificed in the making of these overalls.

Fitting

According to the size chart included with the Jenny overalls, my measurements put me right between a 10 and a 12. In previous experiences with Closet Case Patterns, I’ve sized down when in between sizes and had success. I chose to cut a size 10 and use pattern pieces from a tapered leg pants pattern as a reference when straightening out the legs. The original shape of the crotch and waist seams were kept the same when doing this. One mistake I made when cutting the fabric was not adding my standard 1/2″ of length to the front and back rise. This mistake likely led to more fitting work than I estimated.

I went through three baste-fittings, attempting to attain a ‘good fit.’ I found this post by Closet Case Patterns and this post by Melly Sews good references while fitting. I had quite a wedgie in the back so I scooped the back crotch a bit and that seemed to work. My other fit issue were some serious lines in the front. After examining them, I determined the best course of action to be a bit of a round pubis adjustment. Both of these adjustments seemed to help my major issues and after several days of fitting work; I decided to call the fit ‘good enough.’ It’s not perfect, but I’m happy with it and plan to wear these despite any imperfections.

Construction

As I’ve come to expect from Closet Case Patterns, the instructions were fairly detailed and I didn’t have any issues understanding them. These overalls were the most intensive and time consuming of all my Sew Fancy Pants projects. After spending 3 evenings on fitting, I spent 4 on the construction. The first evening was spent on prepping pockets, the second attaching pockets and inserting the zipper, the third attaching the bib portion to the pants, and the fourth on hems and hardware. While intensive, I wouldn’t consider this project more difficult than any of the jeans I’ve made and I quite enjoyed making a distinctively different from my other recent projects.

Details

Something that will always draw me to overalls is the perfect criss-cross of their straps. I’m not sure what makes me love them, but that ‘x’ across the back gets me every single time. The pattern also includes Interestingly angled bib pockets with front pants pockets having openings that similarly mirror those angles. The curved back pockets provide a nice contrast to all the included angles while also flattering the backside. Overall, I’m smitten with the detailed look of these overalls and took my time sewing each one.

Conclusions

It felt deeply satisfying to check this pair of overalls off my list. They’re more traditional than my Ronja Dungarees and Burnside Bibs and I love having a pair of overalls that hints at traditional, but provides a lovely twist with the dark olive color. I see them acting as a neutral in my wardrobe and pairing well with many of my tops, but love them paired here with my favorite Archer Shirt. The beautifully hefty fabric is sure to last well and my hope is that I’ll be able to wear these Jenny Overalls for years to come.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants Projects 3 and 4: Persephone Pants and the Olli Summer Pants

Hello! I’m back on the #sewfancypants train and looking forward to sharing today’s looks. My son has seen me sewing up a storm over the last few weeks and always asks, “Is that for you or is it for me?” So, when I had some long, odd shaped scraps left over from my Persephone Pants, I opted to sew them up into matching pants for my son. His pants are the Misusu Patterns Olli Summer Pants which are a favorite around here. Let’s get on to the details.

Fabric

I wear my two solid colored Persephone Pants several times each week, and knew I needed to add another a pair to the rotation. For this pair I selected this Blue/Grey Ventana Twill from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. (Disclosure: this fabric was provided to me for this post, but all opinions are my own). The fabric has a pronounced twill weave and a mid-weight of 7.9 oz. At 45″ wide, it’s not quite as wide as most bottom weight fabrics, so I did have to get 3 yards in order to have enough fabric. Despite the narrower width, it’s priced great and 3 yards of this fabric costs about the same as 2 yards of other bottom weights I’ve used (psssst: to get an even better deal you can use code ‘FANCYPANTS20’ to save 20% at RCF through January). Like many cottons, this fabric relaxes a bit with wear, so I opted to make my pants just a touch tight. I’ve been wearing them since taking photos a few hours ago, and they’ve now relaxed and are feeling just right.

Persephone Pants

This is my 4th pair of Persephone Pants and I still don’t think I’m done making them. If you want to know the my fitting adjustments you can find them in the post all about my first pair of Persephones. Now that I’ve made them several times, I can get a pair sewn up in about 4 hours. Wearing them makes me feel infinitely cooler than I actually am and this blue/grey pair will be a welcome wardrobe addition. Counting down the days until spring so I can start pairing these with all my fun patterned blouses. Something about winter makes me wear black and white on the daily.

I literally spent weeks hemming and hawing over what to make for this post. Time kept coming and I was feeling the pressure to sew something completely new and unique, but no ideas were sparking joy. The thought of making another pair of Persephone Pants felt like an epiphany. As a blogger, there’s often pressure to feel like content has to be completely new in order to share. Making and wearing this pattern makes me happy, and why shouldn’t that be worth something?

Another bonus to having made this pattern so many times? Upon seeing these, my husband remarked that the workmanship was my most professional yet. Sewing a pattern more than once allows me to slow down and hone the skills related to each step instead of fretting about what skills will be needed for the next. When I first started sewing for myself, I made the same few patterns 5-10 times and it was a great way to refine the skills related to each pattern. Since then, my sewing skills have grown and diversified, but I love going back to my sewing roots and focusing on skill building once again. Maybe I’ll do more of that this coming year.

Summer Olli Pants

I was first introduced to Misusu Patterns after seeing the Origami Sweater on Instagram. Elles has a fantastic pattern collection filled with interesting children’s designs for both boys and girls. Finding exciting and imaginative designs for boys is sometimes a challenge, but that’s not the case with these patterns. Last summer, the Summer Olli Pants and Shorts pattern was released and made available for free to members of the Misusu Patterns Sew and Tell Facebook group. Upon hearing this, I joined the group, downloaded the pattern, and promptly made my son a few pairs of shorts.

Once winter arrived and he could no longer wear his Olli Shorts outside, I noticed my son changing into them whenever we were home. After a few days of this, I asked him why he wanted to wear his shorts at home. He replied, ” The pockets fit my duct tape wallet!” I remedied this situation by making him two pairs of the pants for Christmas, and now, a third pair in this blue/grey twill. Now he’ll have plenty of pants to hold his wallet and keep him warm.

The style lines of this pattern lend themselves well to both scrap busting and color-blocking. I’ve already got a few color-blocked shorts in mind for summer. Good-bye scraps, hello wonderfully eighties shorts. Another feature I love about this pattern is a decent size range from 0-3 months all the way up to 5-6 years. My tall 5 year old is at the top of the size range wearing a 5/6 with 1 inch added to the length. It’s also a rather quick sew. With the pieces already cut, I was able to finish all but the hem of these during the 2 hours and 20 minutes I have to myself while my son is at school. This time included a lunch break, so I probably could’ve completed them during that time if I didn’t take a break. The Summer Olli Pants and Shorts check all the kid’s clothing boxes for me: free pattern, great scrap buster, stylish, and a quick sew? What are you waiting for? If you’ve got a cool kid in your life, you need this pattern.

The Verdict

Sticking with familiar patterns in a new to me fabric was 100% the right choice. It also helped the process along when I cut both pairs of pants at the same time, from now on I’d like to do this more. It cut down on the amount of leftover fabric and gave me the motivation to finish both in succession. The long skinny pattern pieces required for the Olli Pants were the perfect size to fit on my oddly shaped scraps and (bonus!) made me feel less wasteful. I’m a Ventana Twill convert and plan to acquire either the Canyon Red or Mauve Berry in the near future. Any ideas on what I should use it for next?

Thanks for reading!

Interested in more of my Sew Fancy Pants Projects? Check out my Sienna Persephone Pants or my Emerson Crop Pants.

Want to see more of what I’ve made with Raspberry Creek Fabrics? Check out my Matching Loungewear, Perkins Shirt, or Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans.