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Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project

Hello! It’s been a minute since writing here but, it was important for me to take some time over the last month plus to focus on my family as well as dive into anti-racism efforts. As I get back into sewing, I’m planning to take a slower approach that focuses on quality and versatility instead of instant gratification. My wardrobe is approximately 90% handmade. While I can be proud of that, it’s also getting quite full. The Warp and Weft Wardrobe Project will be my ongoing capsule wardrobe project. It was originally planned as a summer project. However, there’s a good chance it will continue into the fall. Enough rambling. Let’s get to the details.

Inspiration

If you’ve been following me for any amount of time, you may remember that I’m a huge fan of Ace and Jig. Last year I made two projects inspired by Ace and Jig. My Zadie Jumpsuit and Madrid Dress quickly became favorites.

Other than their intricate and colorful woven textiles, my favorite thing about the Ace and Jig brand is the way their stylists fearlessly mix patterns and colors. Just take a scroll through the Ace and Jig Instagram to see what I mean. So good, right?

Inspired by the work of Ace and Jig as well as the beautiful Warp and Weft Wovens line by Alexia Marcelle Abegg for Ruby Star Society, I sat down one evening in April and concocted a plan. For a moment my creativity took flight and I messily scribbled my ideas and calculated yardages on a scrap piece of paper (see above). Using five fabrics from the collection, I would create a 9 piece capsule wardrobe that could be mixed and matched to create 20+ outfits. Once the plan was formed, I couldn’t risk my favorite fabrics selling out so I pre-ordered them from Finch Knitting and Sewing Studio as well as Cottoneer.

Here’s the Plan…

Fabric #1

The burnt orange color and alternating checkered stripes of Matinee in Earth had me falling head over heels the moment I saw it. For this print, I’ve planned a tapered leg pair of Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks (with contrasting side stripe like my navy pair made earlier this year) and a Common Stitch Pipit Loungewear Set top.

Fabric #2

Matinee’s woven pattern was compelling enough that I couldn’t stop myself from ordering it in both colorways. Matinee in Dahlia is destined for a short puff sleeve Roscoe Blouse (see Kelli’s hack here) and an In the Folds Peppermint Wrap Skirt.

Fabric #3

From far away, Mountain in Earth reads a little more solid and felt suitable for mixing with every other fabric in the collection. As such, I’ve selected the Ready to Sew Patsy Overalls for this print.

Fabric #4

Stitch in Lilac is the wildcard of the bunch. I felt that the predominately orange colors of the other fabrics would benefit from something different in the mix. This is one idea that I haven’t set in stone yet. However, my tentative plans for this fabric are a Criswood Sews Envelope dress and a Wiksten Shift top.

Fabric #5

Finally, Parade in Lavender is set to become a pair of Anna Allen wide leg Pomona Pants. Similar to the Persephone Pants, the Pomona Pants don’t have an outside leg seam which will make the pattern matching of this design significantly easier on me.

Wrap Up

Truthfully, this whole project is far more planning than I usually do when it comes to my sewing. Often, I fly by the seat of my pants and sew whatever feels right in the moment. Completing the Warp and Weft Wardrobe capsule project will be a true challenge for me. None of the plans are 100% set in stone so I’ll be giving myself freedom to switch up pattern selections as necessary. The goal is to focus on one fabric each week for the rest of the summer. As a final project wrap up, I’ll use the scraps to create a scrappy Wiksten Shift top. Once each fabric has been sewn, I’ll record my thoughts on the completed pieces here on the blog. By September, October, November or, even December (since 2020 is certainly no respecter of plans) I hope to have a full capsule to share with you. Stay tuned!

Thanks for reading!

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Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

Hello! After posting regularly during January, it feels like it’s been a minute. I cut these Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks during the last week of Sew Fancy Pants, sewed them the following week, and finally got them photographed last week. There’s been an ebb and flow to my sewing practice as of late. I’m slowly learning to embrace it. Enough about me: Let’s talk about these pants.

Inspiration

I’ve had these Topshop menswear inspired trousers pinned on my sewing inspiration board for several months now. When it came time for Sew Fancy Pants, I knew this was a look I wanted to recreate.

Fabric

Here’s where I sing the praises of Tammy from D & H Fabrics because she’s a master fabric “sourcerer.” Upon emailing back and forth with Tammy, I sent her the above inspiration photo. Within hours, she’d found this fabric and suggested it. This Tencel Pin Stripe Pique has a beautiful, fluid drape and a subtle pique texture that reminds me of a formal button up shirt. It’s lightweight enough for summer wear, while still keeping my legs decently warm in mild winter weather. If it was terribly cold, I’d probably slip on a pair of leggings underneath.

Sizing and Adjustments

Since these are elastic waist pants, I opted for just a few flat pattern alterations. These pants are a size 10 with 1/2″ added to the rise and 1.5″ added to the leg length. The only adjustment made during construction was slightly tapering the inseam by about 1/8″ near the ankles. This took out a total of 1/4″ from the leg width.

Construction

Construction was done in 30-45 minute sessions over the course of about 5 days. I didn’t keep an accurate count of time but, would estimate the total sewing time to be just over three hours. Instructions were straightforward with no major sewing hiccups throughout the process. It was a truly enjoyable change of pace after sewing two pairs of jeans in row.

Final Thoughts

I fell asleep in these pants the other day which either speaks to their extreme comfort level or my exhaustion level. Let’s go with the comfort narrative because they’re divine.

My biggest qualm with these pants is the waistband. The elastic I used is likely too soft for the weight of a pair of pants and tries to roll despite being stitched in place at the seams. I’m considering going back and zig-zagging through the elastic for more of a shirred waistband look. This would also solve the problem I have of needing to adjust the waistband gathering every time I stand up. If I made this pattern again, my one other adjustment will be to interface the pocket facing. One of my pocket openings got a little stretched out during construction and doesn’t quite lay flat against my body. It’s not terribly noticeable in this fabric, just something I would change for future pairs.

Overall, I’m happy with the final result of these pants and plan to try this pattern again with the small modifications mentioned above. The fabric feels simultaneously casual and luxurious. In fact, I’m contemplating ordering a bit more to make either a matching top or jacket (Maybe the Helen’s Closet Pona Jacket?). Now that I’ve finished this last pair of pants, I think I’ll wait a month or two before sewing another pair, you know, unless some shiny new pattern catches my eye.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants 2020: Jeans Comparison with Ginger, Dawn, Philippa, and Morgan

The end of Sew Fancy Pants 2020 is nigh. While I haven’t felt quite as productive as last year, I’m still proud of what I was able to accomplish. My last two completed #sewfancypants2020 projects were a pair of black denim Ginger Jeans and a pair of caramel colored Dawn Jeans. After finishing them, I thought it might be helpful to post a comparison of the four different jeans patterns I’ve sewn. Alright here we go, a brief comparison between the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans, Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans, Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants, and Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans.

Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Fitting Adjustments

As far as sizing goes, each pair was made based on the pattern maker’s size chart. They’re all somewhere around a size 12. I used mostly the same flat pattern adjustments for each of these patterns but, I’ll detail them a bit here:

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to front and back rise. Added 2″ of total length to the legs (1″ above knees and 1″ below).
  2. To fix the gaping at the center back, I took out a small wedge at the center back of the yoke. I drew a line that started 1/2″ away from the top of the center back and angled to the bottom of the center back yoke. I trimmed the yoke pieces along this line and then sewed everything according to the pattern instructions. FYI: this is definitely not the proper or recommended method, just what worked for me personally.

Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

  1. 3/4″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Used the longer length inseam option
Ginger Jeans, Dawn Jeans, Philippa Pants, and Morgan Jeans

Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. Back darts extended by 1/2″
  3. 2″ added to leg length
  4. Legs slimmed about 1/2″ total (extra 1/4″ on each side)

Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans

  1. 1/2″ added to the front and back rise.
  2. 1″ added to leg length.
  3. Removed an extra 1/4″ from the top of the center back seam allowance and angled back to the regular seam allowance just below the back yoke.

Philippa Pants vs. Dawn Jeans

The Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans (view A) are both slightly tapered high rise pants designed for non-stretch fabrics. They’ve got different details but, produce a similar result. For me personally, I found the fit pretty comparable. The details I love about the Philippa Pants are: the generous square back pockets, flat front with no front pockets, and a deep 2″ hem at the bottom. My favorite details about the Dawn Jeans are the traditional jeans details such as the front pockets, coin pocket, and back yoke.

Philippa Pants and Dawn Jeans

Ginger Jeans vs. Morgan Jeans

While these two patterns are designed from a slightly different block, I decided to compare them since they’re both from Closet Case Patterns. The Ginger Jeans are designed for stretch denim while the Morgan Jeans are designed for non-stretch denim. The high rise skinny fit of the Ginger Jeans feel a bit more dressed up than the mid rise relaxed fit of the Morgan Jeans. During the winter, Ginger Jeans are my go-to with sweaters and boots while the Morgan Jeans were worn weekly during the summer months.

Ginger Jeans and Morgan Jeans

Final Thoughts

I’ll be honest in saying that it’s difficult for me to pick a favorite between these four jeans as it seems to change weekly. Lately, I’ve been wearing the Philippa Pants on repeat but, have a feeling the Dawn Jeans just might be the next favorite. All four pattern designers provide thorough instructions with the Anna Allen zipper instructions using my favorite zip fly method (the Dawn jeans method is similar). Finding the words for this comparison was a struggle for me so, I decided to focus more on the photos to do the talking. Hoping the photos provide some valuable insight into the basic differences between each pair of jeans. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any specific questions about any of these jeans.

Thanks for reading!

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Wedding Ready with the Evans Blazer and Joan Trousers

Hello! This last week has been filled with all kinds of family festivities. Last Saturday we celebrated my brother’s wedding. Following the wedding, my sister and her children came and stayed with us until yesterday. Having children to play with all week was a dream come true for my only child and spending time with my sister was one for me. There were a few minor hiccups when one child got sick in the movie theater (before we knew he was sick), all three children ended up sick, and I put the turkey in the oven one hour late after not setting an alarm. Despite a wild few days, I’m left feeling grateful for family that is down to roll with the punches and take on life’s bumps together. It was a lovely week overall and we’re missing our family already. Enough about my week. Let’s get down to the reason I’m writing this post: My secret pajamas wedding suit.

Fabric

One week before my brother’s wedding, I still had no clue what I wanted to wear. That is, until I was browsing Stylemaker Fabrics and discovered this Dusty Rose Ponte Knit. Inspiration struck and 3.5 yards were ordered.

Joan Trousers

The Friday Pattern Company Joan Trousers have been on my to-sew list since I wrote a Sew Fancy Pants Fabric Inspiration (Beginner Edition) post in January. Eleven months later, I purchased the pattern and got to work. Based on my measurements, I cut a Large, added 1/2″ to the rise (there isn’t I lengthen shorten line here so I added it at the top), and added 3″ to the leg length at the lengthen/shorten line. Inspired by bluefloralneedles and pinkcoatclub, the legs were tapered for a cigarette pant vibe.

Sewing the Joan Trousers was quick and relatively painless. Most of the sewing took place one afternoon. I was nearing the finish line when I noticed that I’d accidentally placed the belt loops along the wrong markings. One hour of seam ripping later, the belt loops were correctly attached and I was on my way to a finished pair of pants.

Evans Blazer

Since it’s release, the Hey June Evans Blazer has been near the top of my favorites list. This one didn’t turn out quite as well as I’d like (mostly because this fabric is on the lighter side) but, it’s still wearable, just needs a bit of tweaking.

Based on the size chart, I cut a 6 bust, 8 waist, and 10 hip. Added 1/2″ of length to the blazer and 1″ of length to the sleeves. Size wise, all of these alterations seemed about right.

Before I get into the issues I had, I want to clarify that the sizing and instructions were accurate and thorough. The following issues had to do with my fabric choice, not the pattern. I fully intend to make this pattern again in a better suited fabric.

First, my fabric is a lightweight rayon/nylon ponte and has a bit of drape. This means the collar doesn’t stay in place on it’s own. I did hand tack a couple of spots on the collar but, they came undone after a bit of dancing and child wrangling. Now that the wedding is over, I plan to go back and hand tack the entire collar.

Second, also due to the lightweight nature of the fabric, my hem had to be sewn by machine. I spent an hour making a hand sewn blind hem on the blazer bottom and it DID NOT look good. While not sold on the visible topstitching, it’s better than what I had before. Perhaps I’ve lost my blind hemming skills after not using them for a while but the small divots made by the blind hem were extremely noticeable in this color and fabric weight. A darker color would likely not have the same result. The visible stitching makes the blazer more casual than intended.

Final Thoughts

Despite my fabric issues with the Evans Blazer, I’m quite pleased with the overall look created here. Many of my brother’s wedding guests complimented my pink pantsuit while the knit fabric kept me comfortable throughout set up, take down, and everything in between. The trousers are bound to become a staple and with a little work, the blazer will become one as well.

Thanks for reading!

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#SewFreeFall: Peppermint Wrap Top

Fall is here! The leaves are changing, everything is pumpkin flavored, AND I can walk outside without sweating profusely. The changing of seasons is a glorious time, indeed! It’s inspired me to set a few goals for the last months of the year. One of those goals was to finally sew up some of the free PDF patterns that have been languishing on my hard drive. With that, I present to you #SewFreeFall. Each month I’ll sew up one or two free patterns and share them here. I’ll also include a few round-up posts here and there as I use and discover favorite free patterns (If you’re looking for a pretty exhaustive list, Sew Shannon recently posted an awesome one here). This isn’t a formal challenge as there aren’t currently any prizes to be awarded. Although there aren’t any prizes, I’d love it if you’d join me in sewing up some free patterns. Use the #sewfreefall on IG and share how you’re using free patterns in your fall sewing practice. Who knows? Maybe I’ll get crazy and add in a prize or two at some point.

Peppermint Wrap Top

The first up in my Sew Free Fall queue also happened to be the newest free pattern on my radar; the Peppermint Wrap Top by In the Folds for Peppermint Magazine.

Fabric

This Brussels Washer Linen in Leather Brown has been a favorite since I used some for the Arenite Pants in these photos (original post here). The rayon/linen blend combines the best qualities of each fabric. It has the crinkly texture and breathability of linen with the softness and drape of a rayon. Heaven in a fabric, I tell you. After nearly four months of regular washing and wear, I knew my love for this fabric wasn’t ending any time soon. Once I saw this wrap top pattern, two more yards were quickly purchased.

Sizing and Alterations

Using the measurements provided, I chose to cut a C at the bust graded to a D at the hem. I cut a straight C on the wrap part of the front pieces. The only place I actually graded to a D was on the side seams. As far as fitting goes, the only change I’d make a second time around would be moving the bust darts up about 1/2″ higher. They’re a little low on me as-is. For this version, the dart position didn’t bother me enough to unstitch the french seams. My only other alteration was shortening the sleeves. This decision was made more out of necessity than design choice but, I’m actually quite happy with the result.

Construction

During construction, I closely followed the directions and fully enclosed each seam. The result is a top that is almost as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside. While the instructions were straightforward and decently easy to follow, I would recommend that you read up on french seams if you’ve never done them before. Don’t let that scare you. French seams are one of the easiest ways to get a beautiful seam finish on the inside and I used to teach them to my beginner students when I taught sewing lessons.

If you can set-in a sleeve, sew a french seam, and sew a straight line; you are 100% ready to tackle this wrap top. Taking the time to sew french seams means this wasn’t the quickest sew. However, I was still able to finish it over the course of a couple afternoons.

Final Thoughts

I’ve been dreaming of a linen two-piece set for about a year now. The trickiest issue for me was always deciding on a pattern or fabric combination. When the Wrap Top pattern released, I knew the simple shape and design lines would make an excellent complement to my Arenite Pants. Now, I don’t want to wear anything else. The best part about this outfit is that it gives the look of a jumpsuit while maintaining the option to wear both pieces separately. Three cheers for versatility! It also happens to blend nicely with the background at the park where we snapped these photos. If I played hide-and-seek there, nobody would ever find me.

Overall, I’m delighted with the result of my first Sew Free Fall project. If I make this top again, I’ll address the dart fitting issue but it’s not a big enough one to keep this version from regular wear. The whole outfit is comfortable enough to be criminal. Now, please excuse me while I sew one of these outfits in every available color of Brussels Washer Linen.

Thanks for reading!

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Suki Robe and Arenite Pants with Indiesew

Disclosure: The fabric for my pants and the Suki Robe pattern were provided to me by Indiesew in exchange for this post. All opinions are my own.

Hello! Today I’m back with my third post as part of the 2019 Indiesew Blogger team. Just now I realized that all of my Indiesew posts have somewhat of a “something old, something new” theme. In each one, I’ve shared a previously sewn pattern and a new to me pattern. It’s a fairly true reflection of my sewing practice as it’s never simply one or the other. There’s a feeling of calm and comfort that comes from knowing a pattern inside and out whose only rival for my attention is the excitement of beginning a new project. Today’s contenders are the Sew Liberated Arenite Pants and the Helen’s Closet Suki Robe. I’ve styled them together, separately, and brought in some reinforcements from previous posts to give them each fighting chance.

Arenite Pants

Styled with an Archer Button Up (from this post), clogs, and my current favorite hat, these slim hack Arenite Pants are ready to put their best foot forward (or would it be leg in this case??).

Fabric

The moment I saw this Tencel Jacquard in Olive Green (also available in Icy Blue) posted on Indiesew’s Instagram grid (this post), I knew it had to be mine. Tencel, texture, and green? Sold! I was not disappointed when it arrived at my doorstep a week later. It’s buttery soft with a fluid drape and dreamy texture. As per usual, I demanded my husband feel the luxury of this fabric and he described it as his perfect blanket. He was not wrong. The light weight of the fabric combines with the texture to make it feel simultaneously cool and cozy. I’m seriously considering ordering 1.5 yards, hemming or binding the fabric, and using it as a lightweight throw blanket in my living room. The only caveat? It does shrink slightly as expected with the fabric content. The fabric is 53″ wide. After washing I measured it at 48″ wide. It’s not recommended to dry Tencel in a dryer but, I always do.

Sizing, Alterations, and Construction

Combining all these aspects here because I’ve blogged about this pattern before and you can click here to read my previous Arenite Pants post. Just as last time I sewed these pants, I used the Arenite Pants “slim” hack that Meg of Sew Liberated (@sewliberated) has detailed in her Instagram story highlights. Again, I used a size 6 with all the same alterations detailed in my last post. My only extra changes here were moving the pockets up an extra 1″ and taking in the ankles an extra 1/8″ seam allowance (for a total of 3/4″ SA). This removed a total of 3/4″ from the width of the ankles for a slightly slimmer look.

Construction was quick and easy. Again, I opted to forego the felled seams and simply stitched, then serged and topstitched them. They still feel plenty secure. Without felled seams, the pants took most of an afternoon to construct.

Suki Robe

While a newcomer in today’s battle of the sewing projects, the Suki Robe is ready to give the competition a wake up call. In order to shine, this robe prefers to stand on its own. This means that for the five minutes we took these photos, I was wearing just my underclothing and a robe in a public park, so um, you’re welcome?

Fabric

This fabric “Lillium” was designed by colorful creative, handmade hustler, and Sew Fancy Pants co-conspirator, Katie Kortman for D&H Fabrics. Both Katie and Tammy of D&H have been great friends and supporters over the last year so when I had the chance to support both of them by purchasing this lovely fabric it was a no-brainer. The fabric is a rayon poplin with great drape and a silky hand.

Sizing and Alterations

I chose to sew the mid-calf length and selected a size medium based on my measurements. My only alterations to the pattern were made out of a desire to fit it onto a smaller than recommended amount of fabric (that was also directional) and not actual necessity. I had 2.5 yards of this print and didn’t want any of the flowers to be upside down so I had to get creative with pattern placement. In the end, I removed 1.5″ from the mid-calf length and 1″ from the waist tie length to make everything fit. Neither made too much difference in the final fit so I decided I could do without the extra length.

Construction

Sewing this Suki Robe took about double the time it took to sew the Arenite Pants. While somewhat time consuming, the construction wasn’t terribly difficult and something that can be achieved by either the intermediate/advanced or beginner sewist. Helen’s directions include beginner friendly options for the sleeve bands and collar or more advanced methods with enclosed seams in the those areas. Since I’ve been sewing regularly for about a decade, I’d consider myself somewhat of an advanced sewist and chose the enclosed collar and sleeve bands. The end result was a well-constructed robe of which I can be proud.

Final Scoring

Okay, okay, the truth is: my handmade clothes and the patterns used for them feel a little like children. I don’t love the older one any less just because a newer one came along. They’ve each got qualities that make them unique while not diminishing what makes the other special. I can’t decide between them so I’ll lay out a few categories and let you do the decision making. (Just for clarification, if I ever had more than one actual child, I would not encourage strangers on the internet to vote for their favorite. ) The categories are: Fabric Use, Versatility, and Construction Time.

Fabric Use

Both my Arenite Pants slim hack and Suki Robe used almost exactly 2.5 yards of fabric with almost no useable scraps left.

Versatility

The Arenite Pants will only ever be pants but, can be styled for outdoor wear year-round. They pair well with a tee shirt as lounge pants or with a dressier top as an outfit for wearing pretty much anywhere.

The Suki Robe is something I only envision wearing outside of the house in fair weather. During the summer it would make a great swim cover up and I love the idea of it as a light layer for cool evenings. However, it will likely get almost daily use as a house robe year-round. This is the first robe I’ve made and I just didn’t know how much I needed one for daily wear until now.

Construction Time

My Arenite pants came together in a flash (just over 3 hours). However, if I had felled the seams as the pattern directs, they likely would’ve taken twice as long.

The Suki Robe was a semi time consuming project for me. It took part of one evening as well as a good chunk of one day. If I had to guess, I’d say it took about 7-8 hours to sew.

There you have it. Do you have a winner in your mind? Are you team ‘Something Old’ (Arenite Pants) or team ‘Something New’ (Suki Robe)? Feel free to cast your vote in the comments section.

Thanks for reading!

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Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit

I don’t know what it’s been like for you but, summer has had a bit of a slow start here in Utah. The temperatures have seemed cooler than normal for the last couple of months. This last week, all that changed. The summer heat has arrived. Now I’m once again ready to sew all the swimsuits. My family had a neighborhood/church swim party to attend this week and I used it as an excuse/deadline to finally sew up a Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit. The View A with tie back has been tempting me since seeing Sara’s earlier this year. Alright, let’s get into it.

Fabric

In May, I purchased this Ribbed Swim Tricot in Spruce from Blackbird Fabrics. I have a thing for emerald and forest greens (see my Zadie Jumpsuit or Joy Jacket for further proof) and was drawn to the texture of the ribbing. Once the fabric arrived in the mail, I knew I’d made the right choice. The color was spot on and the texture gives it a little more heftiness and security than a regular swim knit. Sewing it was made easier because the extra thickness stopped the fabric from getting eaten by my machine which occasionally happens with swim. It’s a real dream and I’m using all my self control to stop myself from ordering it in additional colors.

Sizing and Alterations

I think this is my favorite part of sewing a custom swimsuit. There’s something powerful in taking your body and its measurements back from the ready to wear industry and making something that fits just right. Swimsuit shopping used to leave me feeling odd and unnatural. Swimsuit sewing leaves me feeling empowered.

Following the Cottesloe size chart, my measurements put me in a 4 bust with a 12 at the waist and hip. Taking this into account, I used a 4 until just below the bust and then graded out to a 12 for the rest of the suit. As usual, a little extra length was needed so I added 1/2″ in length to the front and back straps and 1″ to the length at the lengthen/shorten line. The last adjustment I made was adding a little big more coverage for the booty. I added about 1/2″ to the back leg openings, tapering that amount to meet the seam allowances on either side. With those alterations done, I was ready to sew.

Construction

The suit came together pretty quickly once I started sewing. With my pieces already cut (completed the previous night), I was able to sew the suit together in a day. This day included regular mom duties and a family lunch date. If I had sewn all at once, it probably would’ve taken 2-3 hours.

I opted to add foam cups and fully line the whole suit. When I’m nearly nude in public, I tend to prefer the security that extra layer of fabric provides (even if it’s a false sense of security). There are instructions for both a fully lined suit or a shelf bra in the pattern. During the construction I had one momentary panic when I noticed the cups seemed to be sewn in lopsided. I had carefully tried on and pinned the cups and couldn’t figure out how I’d gone wrong. Upon trying on the suit, I noticed that things didn’t look lopsided at all. Turns out my chest is just a bit more asymmetrical than I’d thought. Just one of the many perks of sewing; I learn new things about my body all the time.

The simplicity of the suit and straightforward instructions made this a joy to sew. This was the third suit I’ve sewn for myself and one of the easiest. While my skills have certainly improved since my first suit in 2015 (that was NOT easy), I would credit some of that ease to a perfectly simple pattern. If you’re a beginner, this pattern is a great place to start.

Final Thoughts

After testing it out for an evening, I have no complaints. The suit held up, kept me covered, and made me feel great. The only thing I would change if making this suit a second time would be moving the back ties up about an inch. I inserted them a bit low. I have a feeling this suit will have a place in my summer wardrobe for years to come. Having a good, basic, one-piece will never go out of style. My next swim venture will hopefully be making some swim separates out of my leftover fabric. If you have favorite two piece swim patterns, I’d love your suggestions.

Thanks for reading! Now, please get back to thoroughly enjoying your summer. I know I will!

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Sew Liberated Arenite Pants with Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Disclosure: The fabric used for my pants was provided to me by Raspberry Creek Fabrics. All opinions expressed here are my own.

Two blog posts in two days? Who even am I? The truth is I’m trying to squeeze in every bit of work in before my son starts summer break tomorrow. It’s been such a blessing this last school year to have a couple of hours (kindergarten is only half day here) to myself to sew and work in the middle of the day instead of late at night. It’s allowed me to connect and collaborate more without completely burning out. I don’t know what the summer holds but, hopefully I’ll still find some time to be active around these parts. Speaking of summer break, my wardrobe was in serious need of pants that don’t look like pajamas, coordinate with almost anything, AND keep me cool even when I decide to cover my unshaven legs. Enter my latest make…the Arenite Pants by Sew Liberated (I purchased my pattern through Indiesew here). Ready for all the details? Let’s do this.

Fabric

After a bit of internal debate and some time spent scouring the Raspberry Creek Fabrics website, I knew what I had to do. Is there anything that screams summer more than a good pair of linen pants? The sewist in me says “No.” For this pair I selected the Brussels Washer Linen in Leather Brown. I would characterize the actual color of this as a golden brown or toasted marshmallow, if you will. If you’re unfamiliar with the Brussels Washer Linen, it’s a lightweight rayon/linen blend. Most of the colors (check out all the colors RCF has available here), including this one, are made with two different color threads woven together which give extra dimension to the look of the fabric. It’s weight feels breezy and cool while still having just enough substance to be opaque (kind of important for pants). After the first wash it gains a perfect crinkly texture and is less scratchy than most 100% linens. Fabric spiel over. Let’s talk about this pattern.

Pattern, Sizing, and Alterations

The Arenite Pants as drafted are a bit oversized with huge slouchy pockets. I love the original design but personally don’t love too much extra bulk around my hips. Several ladies in the sewing community have been slimming down the pattern pieces and hacking them to resemble the Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Pants. THIS was a look I could get behind. Thankfully, I didn’t have to do too much in the thinking department because Meg of Sew Liberated has added the slim leg hack instructions in her Instagram highlights (find the instructions on her IG profile here).

These are the tired eyes of a mom who has been sick for a week hence, the sunglasses in most of the other photos.

I followed Meg’s hack instructions almost to the letter and it worked a treat. As per her instructions, I sized down 3 sizes (from a 12 to a 6), removed width from the side panels and pocket linings, and added length back in where needed. I made a slight deviation in adding 1.5″ to the top of the front pant, back pant, and pocket panel pieces. This raised the waist of the pants so it fits centered over my belly button and perfectly high-waisted. Long gone are my days of low-rise pants. To account for my height, I also added 1.5″ to the length at the lengthen/shorten line. I’m thrilled with the overall fit of this pair although I may opt to slim the calves just a touch more on my next pair.

Construction

I’ll admit that unless I’m unfamiliar with a technique or testing a pattern, I rarely follow instructions. For ease of construction, I opted to skip the flat fell seams and instead simply serge the raw edges and topstitch all seams down. I intended this pair to be an ace wearable muslin and didn’t want to spend twice as long making the pants if they ended up not fitting correctly. If I do use a rayon challis or tencel, I may try flat felling those seams for security. Since I didn’t flat fell the seams, these pants came together in about 3 hours. It was easy and relatively fuss-free. Perfect for a pair of pants that I plan to make again and again.

Final Thoughts

I’m currently sitting in bed still wearing my Arenite Pants. The comfort level is extreme. In fact, I could very likely sleep in these. My only qualm about the entire making process is that I definitely should’ve chosen to get 2.5 yards instead of the 2 I had. It took an epic pattern tetris battle and waistband pieced from scraps but, I made it work. The remaining fabric scraps fit in one hand. Next time I’ll save myself a bit of trouble and just order a bit more fabric.

Other than shorting myself on fabric, the process was seamless and I’m pleased with the finished product. The only slight changes I plan to make in my next pair will be slightly slimming the ankles and raising the top of the pockets by about 1 inch. I love this pair and have full faith that with the next pair I can achieve summer pant perfection.

Curious about the shirt I’m wearing here? It’s one of my tester versions of the Perkins Shirt made in a Black and White Stripe Rayon Challis that I purchased last year from Raspberry Creek. Read more about it here.

Thanks for reading!

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Helen’s Closet York Pinafore

Hello! The last few weeks have been a whirlwind and, although I’ve been sewing, I haven’t had much time to document it. I fully intended to sew up a York Pinafore during Sew Bibs in March until other sewing plans got in the way. One month late, the Helen’s Closet York Pinafore is finished.

Fabric

Mmm…This fabric. In early March, I took a little day trip to my favorite local-ish fabric store, Suppose. It’s one of those beautifully overwhelming places where the project possibilities feel endless. I often spend over an hour browsing and dreaming up ideas (much to my son’s dismay) until reminding myself that my sewing time nor my wallet size are unlimited. This time I was smitten with the subtlety and dimensionality of this print. Designed by Carolyn Friedlander for her Polk collection, this cotton/linen blend has enough weight for the York while still being light and breezy enough for summer wear.

I’ve been a fan of Carolyn Friedlander’s designs since her Doe line released years ago. Although I liked Doe, the line that endeared me to her work was Carkai. I made my favorite Scout Tee and two shirts for my son from Carkai fabric. A tear or two may have been shed when my son finally outgrew those shirts.

Carkai and Doe were both printed on quilting cotton which somewhat limited my pattern choices at the time. Then Carolyn and Robert Kaufman did something phenomenol in her next few lines releasing prints on cotton/linen blends, lawn, and knits. Since then, I’ve used her fabrics for a Farrah Top, Ronja Dungarees, and even included her first cotton/linen blend prints (the overalls and jumpsuit pictured below) in a children’s clothing collection I designed to show at Utah Fashion Week in 2017 . I guess you could say I’m a fan.

Sizing and Alterations

Ok, I know, you probably aren’t here for the trip down memory lane. You’re here to talk about the York so we’ll get back to it. Using the size chart, I determined that I would need to make a 6 at the bust, graded to a 12 at the hips. That is exactly what I did and it seemed to work perfectly. Helen’s closet recently updated the sizing on the York to include a wider range of sizes and I think this made size selection more accurate than the previous S-M-L-XL sizing. Since I didn’t make the previous version, I can’t be sure of that but, it’s an assumption I feel somewhat justified in making. My only other sizing alteration was adding four inches to the length at the hem.

Two other non-sizing alterations were made. One intentional and one not. Tiahna of Ammon Lane made her first York last summer and her self-drafted angled pockets persuaded me to give the York a try after initially overlooking it. So, I copied her almost exactly in making these angled pockets.

My unintentional alteration was the addition of a center back seam. Unless I’m testing a pattern, I almost never look at pattern layouts or cutting instructions, paying attention only to grain lines. This time, my haste and haughtiness caught up with me. I was laying out the pattern pieces on the fabric when I realized the only way the pattern pieces would fit on a folded 45″ wide piece of fabric was if I added a seam allowance to the center back, not cutting it on the fold. I cut out the fabric, silently wondering why the fabric requirement chart didn’t note the need for more fabric. That is, until I went back to the instructions and realized the pieces were meant to be cut in one layer on 45″ wide fabric. Lesson learned. Perhaps next time I’m feeling puzzled about pattern layout, I’ll actually check the instructions before cutting.

Construction

Sewing the York took the better part of one afternoon. In fact, making the bias tape may have taken almost the same amount of time as the rest of the construction. It really is almost as easy as attaching the pockets, and then sewing the front and back together. The most difficult step: Attaching the bias tape. That’s it. If you’ve never attached bias tape, I promise you it’s nothing to fear. The bias tape adds a polished look to the insides and provided a fun opportunity to play with a contrasting print. I used other prints by Carolyn Friedlander for a fun, scrappy bias finish.

Final Thoughts

I just might become a pinafore person. You know my undying love for overalls and this pinafore fever feels like an extension of that. My favorite part about this pattern is the simplicity of it all. Clear instructions and a straightforward sew make this a pattern I will gladly recommend to my beginner sewing friends. It was a quick sew that, paired with the right fabric, feels casual enough for daily wear and dressed up enough for church or family events. Yesterday the deep pockets came in handy for hiding snacks, safeguarding my phone, and carrying small toys. All necessary things at this stage in my life. Now, how long do I wait before sewing another one?

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Retro Inspired Tops with Indiesew

Hello! Today I’m sharing my second post as part of the Indiesew 2019 Blogger Team. After making four pairs of Persephone Pants over the last year, I decided that I needed some retro inspired tops to wear with them during spring and summer. With a couple yards of fabric, two great patterns, and a little bit of hacking, my retro wardrobe dreams are beginning to come true. Ready for all the details? Let’s do this.

Grainline Studio Lark Tee


The Grainline Studio Lark Tee has been a staple in my wardrobe since the pattern release in 2015. Over the years I’ve sewn every sleeve length and neckline option. This time, I wanted something a little different. Initially I had planned to make a button front hack, decided against it, and then thought I’d try a lettuce hem. I haven’t spent quite enough time practicing a lettuce hem to feel confident using it in an entire garment just yet. Hopefully with a bit more practice I’ll have a lettuce hemmed top before the end of the year. Eventually I settled on using a contrasting ribbing on the sleeves, neckline, and hem.

Fabric

This green stripe waffle knit (also available in ice, pink, and blue) has been on my radar for a while now. I could never quite decide on a suitable project. In the end I decided to just order the fabric and let it tell me what it wanted to become. The 100% cotton content makes it breathable and easy to wear. The only drawback to this fabric is the lack of spandex which means there isn’t great recovery once the fabric has been stretched. To remedy that and keep the shirt fitting in the neckline, I used a rayon/spandex rib knit for the bands. Together they make a vintage inspired tee that’s sure to keep me cool and put together all summer long.

Fitting and Alterations

I love a good loosely fitted tee. To achieve a looser fit with the Lark Tee I always sew a size 4 instead of the 2 (where my measurements land). With the sizing sorted, my modifications to achieve this look were quite simple. I chopped 1″ of the short sleeve length and added 1/2″ (finished) bands to the sleeve hems. Originally, I hadn’t planned for the bottom band and cut the shirt pattern as is. Upon trying it on, I didn’t love it so I chopped off 6.5″ from the bottom and added a 2″ band. That’s it. Easiest pattern hack ever. Perhaps next time I would chop an extra 1″ or 2″ off the bottom for a more cropped look. This version toes the line between cropped and regular length.


Construction

Nothing makes me feel more productive than sewing a banded tee or sweatshirt. Deciding on how to hack this tee took longer than the actual making of it. Once I made a decision, sewing this tee took me just over an hour (including interruptions to help or talk with my 5 year old). Such a quick, satisfying sew!

Seamly Jersey Popover

THIS. This Seamly Jersey Popover hack is what has me really feeling all the vintage, retro vibes. After pinning a couple of collared tees to my Apparel Sewing and Inspiration Pinterest board, I knew that I had to make something similar happen. I turned to Indiesew’s large pattern catalog to find a pattern match. When I saw the Jersey Popover, it felt serendipitous. This would be the simplest pattern “hack” I’d ever done.


Fabric

A retro inspired look called for a fabric with an equally retro appearance. The colors and texture of this Blue and White Stripe Pique Knit practically scream 1970’s dad style weekend wear. I’ll be honest and say that I had no idea what a pique knit (apologies to my college Textiles professor) was until I started googling and saw lots of polo shirts made from pique knits. Sold! This fabric had to be mine. I paired this pique knit with the same rayon/spandex rib knit mentioned above for a match made in Brady Bunch heaven.

Fitting and Alterations

According to the sizing chart, my measurements fell right between an extra small and a small. After looking at the finished measurements, I decided to size down to the extra small for a closer fit. With the size determined, I made two small alterations to achieve this hack. First, I cut off the bottom curve for a straight hem. Second, I cut the sleeves 4″ above the sleeve lengthen/shorten line. That’s it. No intense “hacking” necessary.

Construction

Sewing the Jersey Popover was simultaneously simpler and more difficult than I thought. The instructions were great and easily guided me through each step of the process. My difficulties lie in the rib knit used for the plackets and collar. Topstitching it was not an easy task and I opted out of topstitching the collar as a result. I attempted it a couple of times and just couldn’t get a nice looking topstitch on the rib knit. My other issue with the rib knit was that it’s quite thick where several layers are sewn together around the plackets. With some grading and trimming I was able to achieve a passable result.

This was also my first time sewing a knit placket. I’ve sewn plenty of woven plackets in the past, but sewing one in woven is a whole new ball game. With a little bit of patience, Interfacing, and my trusty seam ripper, I made it work. Next time I think I would just use a self fabric instead of the ribbing for plackets with less bulk. Overall, it’s not the worst first attempt so I’m just proud to be honing a new skill.

Conclusions

When my husband saw these outfits he said, “Oooh! very retro.” and then proceeded to ask me if I was headed to play tennis at the country club. Those two responses are a good indicator that I’ve achieved my styling goal with these tops. I mean, who doesn’t want to dress like they’re about to hop in the station wagon and head to the country club? Ok, maybe I’m the only one with that specific style goal in mind. Over the coming months I plan to pair these with my Burnside Bibs and Phillipa Pants in addition to the Persephone Pants seen here. Perhaps I’ll even make a Monarch Jacket to wear over them? hmm… Now, if I start describing things as groovy, someone please snap me back to reality. Until then, I’ll be living in a vintage inspired world of my own creation.

Disclosure: These fabrics and the Jersey Popover pattern were provided to me by Indiesew in exchange for this post. All opinions are my own.