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Suit Up for Summer with Raspberry Creek Fabrics

There may be snow on the ground, but we’re already dreaming of summer and days spent in our favorite swimmers. Thanks to the Raspberry Creek Fabrics 2019 Swim collection, I’ve gotten a head start on summer sewing. Initially I couldn’t wait to get my hands on swimwear fabric and get to making myself a new suit. A few days later, however, the insecurities set in. Did I really want to share my body in a swimsuit with the internet? Should I get a spray tan? It’s been years since I last made myself a swimsuit, what if it’s a colossal fail? This. This is why I blog and give myself deadlines. If I hadn’t made the commitment, I would’ve let these doubts get the better of me. Despite my doubts, I’m always thankful that blogging pushes me out of my sewing and style comfort zones. Alright, enough about my insecurities, let’s talk about these suits.


My Son’s Palm Euro Suit

My 5 year old has been wearing this style of trunks since 2017 when I met Rachel of Little Fish Apparel. I purchased a pair of her trunks and since then, my son hasn’t worn any other style. Last spring Sew Like My Mom released the Palm Euro Suit pattern and I fell in love with the style and quick construction. My son fell in love with the fully lined inside and options to have his favorite style in a variety of fabrics. There was no question that this would be the pattern for my son’s newest suit. I got this Flamingo Vertical Stripe swim fabric and got to work.


When I say construction is quick I mean that a pair of these can literally be whipped up in the time it takes to get my child ready for the day. I sewed this pair one morning last week in about an hour including interruptions like getting oatmeal for my son, reminding him to get dressed, and answering approximately 100 Minecraft questions. My son wasn’t thrilled with the suit when I first finished it but, was sold after putting it on for these photos. In fact, he opted to wear it under his clothes for the rest of the day. Calling that a win.

This pair is the brief length, fully lined in a size 5. Sizing was spot on when compared to the size chart.

Do we look cold here? We might be a little cold.

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit

The last time I made myself a swimsuit was in 2015 (here). Back then I wasn’t blogging and had a following on Instagram that was mostly limited to family and friends. I shared the photo on Instagram and remember being only slightly nervous. This time I was again nervous, but more so since I planned to also blog about my suit. Upon finishing the suit, my nerves lessened because I realized that this body made a freaking swimsuit which makes me feel pretty good about it. Life is too short to not show your body love for the things it can do. Stepping down off my tiny soapbox because it’s time to talk about this suit.

Fabric and Pattern Choice

With over 30 Raspberry Creek Fabrics swim prints (plus a nice selection of stripes, dots, and gingham), picking my favorite design was a daunting task. Originally I planned to use a Watercolor Palm Leaf print until a moment of inspiration had me changing my mind to this bold Vertical Multi Stripe. Some sewists choose a pattern and then look for the fabric. In my case, I generally choose the fabric first and allowing it to tell me what it should be. This fabric was begging to become an Opian Pilatus. With a cut out back, tie front, and high waisted bottoms, the Pilatus swimsuit combines the fun of a two-piece swimsuit with the security and functionality of a one-piece. Now that I’ve sewn it I can echo others and say that it’s a good one. I did however, make a few changes for my own personal comfort.


Sizing and Alterations

According to the measurement chart, my measurements put me at a size 2 bust with a size 6 waist and hip. Based on this I traced a size 2 top and size 6 bottoms. The pattern is drafted for someone approximately 5’6″ in height so I made a couple more initial adjustments to fit my 5’10” height. To address this, I added 1/2″ to the top of the bottoms, and a total of 1″ to the bodice pieces (1/2″ added to each the top of the straps and bottom of bodice pieces). Finally, I needed to address the coverage on the back bottom pieces. My initial muslin showed much more of my buttocks than I’d like to share with the world. I have no issue with others wearing a suit fitting this way, it was just more than I personally felt comfortable showing. After a couple more muslins, I ended up adding 1 and 1/2 inches at the fullest part tapering to the original pattern lines at the top and bottom. With fitting sorted, I was ready to start sewing.

Construction

I sewed in bra cups but otherwise followed the pattern as written and found it straightforward. Construction took around 4 hours (including lots of try ons between steps because I was loving it). I used my machine’s lightning stitch for the seams and hemmed the waistband and leg openings with neon green thread and a double needle. Upon completion, my bottoms were gaping slightly at the back waist. Begrudgingly, I ripped out the top hem, removed the original back elastic, and replaced it with a piece 1″ shorter than recommended. This fixed the gaping and with a new hem, my suit was complete.

Final Thoughts

What more can I say? Clearly we’re already enjoying our new suits over here and I can’t wait to make more over the next few months. We’re heading to a Great Wolf Lodge next month and my goal is making a new swimsuit for both days we’ll be enjoying the waterpark. Will it actually happen or will I get distracted by other projects? Hoping that typing it here will keep me accountable but not making any guarantees here.

Ready for more swimwear inspiration? The Raspberry Creek Fabrics Suit Up for Summer tour is happening all week. Make sure to check out the other talented ladies included.

Friday: Its Liesel / Amber Lauren Boutique / Violette Field Threads / Confetti Unicorn

For this week, March 11-15, 2019, our readers can enjoy 20% off SWIM ONLY from these sponsors!
Wardrobe By Me code: Raspberry Creek
Simple Life Pattern Company code: SLPCO-RCSWIM
Titchy Threads code: SUITUP19
5oo4 code: RCFSWIM

A huge thank you to all of our sponsors!


Boo Designs / Sew A Little Seam / Titchy Threads / Simple Life Pattern Co. / Jalie
Little Lizard King / Made for Mermaids / Love Notions / Striped Swallow Designs
Patterns for Pirates / Violette Field Threads / Wardrobe By Me / 5oo4 / Sew Like My Mom

Thanks for reading!

Fabric for this post was provided to me by Raspberry Creek Fabrics but all opinions are my own.

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Sewing for Spring with Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Here in Utah, winter is showing no signs of stopping soon, but that hasn’t stopped Raspberry Creek Fabrics from brightening the season with their Spring 2019 Club release. If you’re unfamiliar with the Club line, it’s printed in house by Raspberry Creek and only available through them. This release has 8 collections and over 50 prints total. A majority of the prints are available on cotton jersey and french terry with a few options available on ponte and rayon challis. As part of the Raspberry Creek Fabrics promotional team, I was able to choose a couple of my favorite prints to sew up and share. Let’s get to it!

My Son’s Cardigan

Upon seeing the spring preview, my son saw this Giraffe Print French Terry (also available in cotton jersey) and said, “Mom! I want to look like a giraffe.” I’m a big believer in using fashion as a form of self-expression so I happily obliged. I chose the cotton french terry as it’s my preferred substrate for my son’s joggers and sweatshirts. It’s got enough weight to hold up to the abuses of a 5 year old, while also being light enough for year-round wear.

His wardrobe contains plenty of pants and tees but is sometimes lacking when it comes to jackets and sweaters. With his input, I settled on making a Petit a Petit Goodall Cardigan (find it free in the Petit a Petit Facebook group). I chose a size 6 which was right in line with my son’s measurements. The intended fit is oversized and I love that my son will likely get at least a year or more of wear out of this cardigan before he grows out of it. If you prefer a more fitted look, I would suggest sizing down. Sewing was straightforward and took somewhere around 2 hours start to finish.

My Perkins Shirt

I couldn’t let my son have all the fun with the Club Spring release and this Abstract Floral rayon challis caught my eye almost immediately. The large scale gives the fabric a modern look while the coloring screams spring. After last month’s frantic fancy pants sewing, I’ve been spending February focusing on tops to pair with my fancy pants. Rayon challis is my favorite substrate for woven tops and I knew this print would be a welcome wardrobe addition.

Although I planned to make some sort of top, I waited to receive the actual fabric before deciding on a pattern. Sometimes you just need to drape a fabric around your body to find out what it wants to become. Eventually I decided to sew up an Ensemble Patterns Perkins Shirt. I tested the pattern last May (see my test versions and more pattern details in this post), and my gathered version has become one of my wardrobe staples.

I again opted to make the cropped version. Other than adding 2 inches to the length, I sewed a straight size 4. Sewing took place over an afternoon and an evening taking maybe 4-5 hours total. The result is a top that I’m sure will be worn regularly throughout the spring and summer months. The soft pastel colors paired with the boxy shape make the look feel unexpected and just right all at once. I can’t wait to mix and match this Perkins Shirt with different pieces of my handmade wardrobe style it in new ways.

Conclusions

I’ve been a customer of Raspberry Creek fabrics since 2017 and have used their Club line french terry for nearly 20 pairs of joggers, several sweatshirts, and a few tees. Although I knew the french terry cardigan would be a hit, this was my first time using the Club rayon challis and I was happy to find that it sewed beautifully. The printing process can make the fabric feel slightly stiff until the first wash but, it softens well after washing. Now that I’ve used it, I think that I’ll start purchasing and using it more often. My son is overjoyed to have a giraffe cardigan and both of these makes will likely be favorites throughout spring.

My son and I both paired our Spring ’19 Club Fabrics with pants made from Cone Mills Black Stretch Denim purchased from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. Mine are the Ginger Jeans (posted about these exact pants in this post) and his are the Misusu Patterns Olli Summer Pants.

Thanks for reading!

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Anna Allen Philippa Pants and Cropped Fringe Dress Top

In the midst of the #sewfancypants craziness last month, I also managed to finish a sixth pair of pants that couldn’t be shared until now. I had the absolute pleasure of testing the newly released Anna Allen Clothing Philippa Pants. You likely already know my obsession with the Persephone Pants so I was thrilled to be selected as a tester for this new pattern.

Pattern Details

The Phillipa Pants are a high-waisted tapered leg pant meant for use with non-stretch bottomweights. The pants are a simple, fuss-free style with rectangular back pockets, back darts, and no front pockets. I opted to use the new zipper expansion (works for Persephone Pants too!) for this pair and the instructions produced a beautifully finished fly front.

Fabric Choice

Last fall, I won this 11.5 oz Cone Mills Denim in Dark Indigo from Imagine Gnats. After years of wearing skinny jeans with a decent spandex content, I was nervous to try making and wearing a pair of tapered jeans without stretch. The denim does tend to relax a bit after a few hours of wear. This makes my Philippa pants quite comfortable, but also gives them a slightly looser fit. If using this fabric, I suggest making your pants just a bit tighter than you’d like so that they’ll fit perfect after a bit of wear.

Fitting

This specific pair was made from the first testing draft of the Philippa Pants pattern, and Anna has made a few changes since then. As such, I can only speak to this pair and not the final pattern. Before the end of the month I will hopefully complete a pair using the final pattern will report back on fit then. I will say that I found the size chart to be fairly accurate. Anna has even included calf and thigh measurements in the finished measurement chart to help sewists decide whether grading is necessary in the legs.


Fringe Cropped Top

Last summer I ordered 12 yards of this gorgeous yarn-dyed woven designed by Anna Maria Horner. After using just over 11 yards for living room curtains, I was left with a little under 1 yard. Sure, I could’ve used it to make something for my son, but I loved this fabric so much that I wanted something for myself. I used my finely tuned pattern tetris skills to squeeze this Fringe Dress Crop top hack out of it. This “hack” isn’t really a hack at all. In fact, all I did was add 8 inches to the bodice length, straighten the hem, and omit the waist darts. I also rounded off the bottom of the front neckline facing instead of having an unnecessary straight piece running down the center. Just a note: If you’ve been gifted with a bust larger than my forever A-cups, and want to use this hack, rotating the waist darts to the side seams might help you achieve less pulling in your final fit.

Once my alterations were made, I simply sewed the top according to the bodice instructions in the Fringe Dress Pattern. I hemmed the bottom by turning it up 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ and topstitching. That’s it. World’s easiest “pattern hack” and a fun, quick sew for all those smaller cuts burning a hole in your stash.

The Outfit

Wearing this outfit makes me feel a combination of 1970’s free spirit and modern mom. Is it the colors? The silhouettes? Now that I’m thinking about it, 1970’s free spirit meets modern mom might just be my fashion goal. Whatever the vibe is, I’m digging it.

Thanks for reading! Check back soon or follow me on Instagram to see what I’ve got up my sleeve for February.

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Sew Fancy Pants Project 5: Closet Case Patterns Jenny Overalls

Hello again! Today I’m back on the #sewfancypants train with this pair of tapered leg Jenny Overalls. I’ve loved overalls for as long as I can remember and can find at least three “first day of school” pictures in which I’m wearing a pair. Surprisingly, I was on the fence about this pattern for a while until seeing Sara’s tapered corduroy Jenny Overalls. Her version won me over and I knew these were the pants I needed in my life. In fact, these were the first pants I planned when throwing around the idea of the Sew Fancy Pants challenge.

Fabric

Often I plan projects after finding the perfect fabric, this time though, I planned this project around the pattern. After searching through several online shops, I saw this 14 oz Cone Mills Dark Olive Denim (use code ‘Fancy15’ to save 15% through Jan. 31st) from Sewing Studio. Karleen was kind enough to send me this fabric for use in this post and I was delighted when it arrived. The deep color and substantial weight of this denim is perfect for a hefty, durable pair of overalls. I was nervous that my machine would have difficulty handling several layers, but with fresh, sharp denim needles it handled just fine. Only one needle was sacrificed in the making of these overalls.

Fitting

According to the size chart included with the Jenny overalls, my measurements put me right between a 10 and a 12. In previous experiences with Closet Case Patterns, I’ve sized down when in between sizes and had success. I chose to cut a size 10 and use pattern pieces from a tapered leg pants pattern as a reference when straightening out the legs. The original shape of the crotch and waist seams were kept the same when doing this. One mistake I made when cutting the fabric was not adding my standard 1/2″ of length to the front and back rise. This mistake likely led to more fitting work than I estimated.

I went through three baste-fittings, attempting to attain a ‘good fit.’ I found this post by Closet Case Patterns and this post by Melly Sews good references while fitting. I had quite a wedgie in the back so I scooped the back crotch a bit and that seemed to work. My other fit issue were some serious lines in the front. After examining them, I determined the best course of action to be a bit of a round pubis adjustment. Both of these adjustments seemed to help my major issues and after several days of fitting work; I decided to call the fit ‘good enough.’ It’s not perfect, but I’m happy with it and plan to wear these despite any imperfections.

Construction

As I’ve come to expect from Closet Case Patterns, the instructions were fairly detailed and I didn’t have any issues understanding them. These overalls were the most intensive and time consuming of all my Sew Fancy Pants projects. After spending 3 evenings on fitting, I spent 4 on the construction. The first evening was spent on prepping pockets, the second attaching pockets and inserting the zipper, the third attaching the bib portion to the pants, and the fourth on hems and hardware. While intensive, I wouldn’t consider this project more difficult than any of the jeans I’ve made and I quite enjoyed making a distinctively different from my other recent projects.

Details

Something that will always draw me to overalls is the perfect criss-cross of their straps. I’m not sure what makes me love them, but that ‘x’ across the back gets me every single time. The pattern also includes Interestingly angled bib pockets with front pants pockets having openings that similarly mirror those angles. The curved back pockets provide a nice contrast to all the included angles while also flattering the backside. Overall, I’m smitten with the detailed look of these overalls and took my time sewing each one.

Conclusions

It felt deeply satisfying to check this pair of overalls off my list. They’re more traditional than my Ronja Dungarees and Burnside Bibs and I love having a pair of overalls that hints at traditional, but provides a lovely twist with the dark olive color. I see them acting as a neutral in my wardrobe and pairing well with many of my tops, but love them paired here with my favorite Archer Shirt. The beautifully hefty fabric is sure to last well and my hope is that I’ll be able to wear these Jenny Overalls for years to come.

Thanks for reading!

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Sew Fancy Pants Projects 3 and 4: Persephone Pants and the Olli Summer Pants

Hello! I’m back on the #sewfancypants train and looking forward to sharing today’s looks. My son has seen me sewing up a storm over the last few weeks and always asks, “Is that for you or is it for me?” So, when I had some long, odd shaped scraps left over from my Persephone Pants, I opted to sew them up into matching pants for my son. His pants are the Misusu Patterns Olli Summer Pants which are a favorite around here. Let’s get on to the details.

Fabric

I wear my two solid colored Persephone Pants several times each week, and knew I needed to add another a pair to the rotation. For this pair I selected this Blue/Grey Ventana Twill from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. (Disclosure: this fabric was provided to me for this post, but all opinions are my own). The fabric has a pronounced twill weave and a mid-weight of 7.9 oz. At 45″ wide, it’s not quite as wide as most bottom weight fabrics, so I did have to get 3 yards in order to have enough fabric. Despite the narrower width, it’s priced great and 3 yards of this fabric costs about the same as 2 yards of other bottom weights I’ve used (psssst: to get an even better deal you can use code ‘FANCYPANTS20’ to save 20% at RCF through January). Like many cottons, this fabric relaxes a bit with wear, so I opted to make my pants just a touch tight. I’ve been wearing them since taking photos a few hours ago, and they’ve now relaxed and are feeling just right.

Persephone Pants

This is my 4th pair of Persephone Pants and I still don’t think I’m done making them. If you want to know the my fitting adjustments you can find them in the post all about my first pair of Persephones. Now that I’ve made them several times, I can get a pair sewn up in about 4 hours. Wearing them makes me feel infinitely cooler than I actually am and this blue/grey pair will be a welcome wardrobe addition. Counting down the days until spring so I can start pairing these with all my fun patterned blouses. Something about winter makes me wear black and white on the daily.

I literally spent weeks hemming and hawing over what to make for this post. Time kept coming and I was feeling the pressure to sew something completely new and unique, but no ideas were sparking joy. The thought of making another pair of Persephone Pants felt like an epiphany. As a blogger, there’s often pressure to feel like content has to be completely new in order to share. Making and wearing this pattern makes me happy, and why shouldn’t that be worth something?

Another bonus to having made this pattern so many times? Upon seeing these, my husband remarked that the workmanship was my most professional yet. Sewing a pattern more than once allows me to slow down and hone the skills related to each step instead of fretting about what skills will be needed for the next. When I first started sewing for myself, I made the same few patterns 5-10 times and it was a great way to refine the skills related to each pattern. Since then, my sewing skills have grown and diversified, but I love going back to my sewing roots and focusing on skill building once again. Maybe I’ll do more of that this coming year.

Summer Olli Pants

I was first introduced to Misusu Patterns after seeing the Origami Sweater on Instagram. Elles has a fantastic pattern collection filled with interesting children’s designs for both boys and girls. Finding exciting and imaginative designs for boys is sometimes a challenge, but that’s not the case with these patterns. Last summer, the Summer Olli Pants and Shorts pattern was released and made available for free to members of the Misusu Patterns Sew and Tell Facebook group. Upon hearing this, I joined the group, downloaded the pattern, and promptly made my son a few pairs of shorts.

Once winter arrived and he could no longer wear his Olli Shorts outside, I noticed my son changing into them whenever we were home. After a few days of this, I asked him why he wanted to wear his shorts at home. He replied, ” The pockets fit my duct tape wallet!” I remedied this situation by making him two pairs of the pants for Christmas, and now, a third pair in this blue/grey twill. Now he’ll have plenty of pants to hold his wallet and keep him warm.

The style lines of this pattern lend themselves well to both scrap busting and color-blocking. I’ve already got a few color-blocked shorts in mind for summer. Good-bye scraps, hello wonderfully eighties shorts. Another feature I love about this pattern is a decent size range from 0-3 months all the way up to 5-6 years. My tall 5 year old is at the top of the size range wearing a 5/6 with 1 inch added to the length. It’s also a rather quick sew. With the pieces already cut, I was able to finish all but the hem of these during the 2 hours and 20 minutes I have to myself while my son is at school. This time included a lunch break, so I probably could’ve completed them during that time if I didn’t take a break. The Summer Olli Pants and Shorts check all the kid’s clothing boxes for me: free pattern, great scrap buster, stylish, and a quick sew? What are you waiting for? If you’ve got a cool kid in your life, you need this pattern.

The Verdict

Sticking with familiar patterns in a new to me fabric was 100% the right choice. It also helped the process along when I cut both pairs of pants at the same time, from now on I’d like to do this more. It cut down on the amount of leftover fabric and gave me the motivation to finish both in succession. The long skinny pattern pieces required for the Olli Pants were the perfect size to fit on my oddly shaped scraps and (bonus!) made me feel less wasteful. I’m a Ventana Twill convert and plan to acquire either the Canyon Red or Mauve Berry in the near future. Any ideas on what I should use it for next?

Thanks for reading!

Interested in more of my Sew Fancy Pants Projects? Check out my Sienna Persephone Pants or my Emerson Crop Pants.

Want to see more of what I’ve made with Raspberry Creek Fabrics? Check out my Matching Loungewear, Perkins Shirt, or Gemma Sweater and Ginger Jeans.

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Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater

It’s mid-way through December and the holiday season is in full swing around here. I had lofty sewing goals for December that had to be trimmed thanks to a minor, but unexpected hand surgery. Once I found out that surgery was necessary, I decided to drop all sewing plans except the Archer I posted last week. Had surgery just over a week ago and am feeling quite well. Thanks to a clear schedule (in case I wasn’t feeling well) and a nicely replenished fabric stash, I felt like sewing this week. On Monday afternoon I knocked out a bit of Christmas sewing and on Tuesday decided to sew up this Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater for myself. I mashed up the sleeves of View A with the curved hemline of View B to make a perfectly simple oversized sweater. 

Choosing the Fabric

I usually don’t have a large fabric stash for projects sewn on a whim, but I’ve tried to add a few favorites over the last few months. This organic hemp fleece from D & H Fabrics was begging to become a cozy sweater. It’s a mid-weight sweatshirt fleece with 2-way stretch and pillowy soft backside. It’s one of those fabrics that everyone should have in their stash ready and waiting for the next cozy sweatshirt pattern to come along. 


After the release of the Jarrah, I started looking for good ribbing. I usually just use a self fabric for ribbing, but have been inspired by all the matching ribbing I’ve seen lately. One night I was browsing Etsy, when I decided to search sweatshirt ribbing. I looked at several options before finding this black striped ribbing and falling in love. The black, mustard, and grey mixed with gold read as a combination that could be fun without looking childish. Although I found the ribbing on Etsy, Miekkie Fabrics also has a website (here) with a larger selection of fabrics and ribbing. I opted to purchase through Etsy since I had a gift card, but will likely purchase from their site in the future.  (Just a heads up: Miekkie Fabrics is based in Poland so the ribbing took about 3 weeks to arrive in the United States. ) Once the ribbing arrived, I was pleased with it’s weight and quality. My only complaint would be that when I ordered a quantity of 3, my ribbing was sent in 3 90cm pieces instead of one continuous piece. I didn’t ask for it to be continuous, so this was likely user error. Next time I will contact them before and ask if a continuous piece is possible. 

Fitting

Now, let’s take a minute to talk fit. According to the pattern sizing chart, my bust is right between that of a 2 and a 4 with my hip at a 12. After looking at the finished garment measurements, I noted that there was plenty of ease and too much grading up wouldn’t be necessary. Quickly, I settled on using a 4 at the bust and grading to a 6 at the hips. My only other adjustment was the regular length adjustment. I added 1.25″ to the sleeves and 1.5″ to the front and back pieces. Overall, I’m rather pleased with the fit although as a personal preference I could’ve added another .5″ to the sleeve length. 

Construction

Besides finishing a garment, sewing one up is my favorite part and there’s nothing that satisfies the need to sew like a quick and easy sweater. My son attends Kindergarten in the afternoon and this occasionally gives me two free hours to clean, grocery shop, or sew (I usually choose sewing). On Tuesday morning I assembled the pattern and cut my fabric. After dropping my son off at school, I grabbed my favorite drink (A Starbucks Caramel Apple Spice), put a movie on Netflix, and began sewing. Construction went quickly without any major mistakes and I was able to finish the entire sweater before heading back out the door to pick up my son. 

Overall, the outcome of my Tuesday afternoon sewing was successful. I satisfied the my need to sew, gained a cozy sweatshirt, and began a love affair with sweatshirt ribbing (Seriously, send me all your favorite sources for fabric with matching ribbing because I want to use it in every future sweatshirt). Next, I plan to find a good pink sweatshirt fleece to make a Jarrah in the knot front View C since I already have another striped ready for that project. What are you making for the holidays? Are you sewing for others or getting in some good selfish sewing as I did here?

Thanks for reading!

Want to see more projects I’ve made with fabrics from D&H Fabrics? Check out my Kaste Dress or Mila Shirt.

Ready for more winter sewing projects? Read about my Gemma Sweater, Clare Coat, or Toaster Sweater.

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Ikat Archer Button Up

Hello! I can hardly believe that December is upon us. Somehow I’m feeling baffled that this last year has flown so quickly and simultaneously feeling that it lasted forever. Time is weird. Let’s get back to the reason you’re here. My latest make is one of which I’m quite proud. This Archer Button Up made with an Ikat from Merritt Makes is one of those projects that reminded me “practice makes (almost) perfect.” 

First, Fabric.

Merritt Makes is an online fabric shop run by a mother/daughter team. As someone who spent five years working in a shop run by a mother/daughter team, I have a soft spot for mother/daughter run businesses. About a month ago, I was browsing their website and couldn’t stop planning projects. You know the fabric is good when one look at the website results in the planning of an entire seasonal wardrobe. After emailing back and forth with Merritt, she helped me settle on making an Archer in this delicious Ivory Ikat fabric.

This woven ikat fabric is lightweight 100% cotton. The weave is slightly looser than a quilting cotton, but still tight enough to make handling it easier than a rayon challis. The hand feels similar to a gauze which makes wearing this fabric both breathable and comfortable. Pressing it was a dream which made it ideal for the crisp structure of a button up. Working with this fabric felt luxurious and I found myself taking extra care with each step.

Next, Construction.

As mentioned above, my love for this ikat fabric led me to take extra care during the construction of this top. Due to the slightly looser weave of the fabric, I chose to finish all the exposed seams with french seams instead of a serged edge. I then used two lines to top stitched the french seams so they would lay flat. This meant that each of the exposed seams was sewn a total four times. It took extra time, but the end result is a garment that looks just as neat on the inside as it does on the outside. I want this shirt to last and decided the best way to ensure that would be to take my time on its construction. 

I’m no stranger to button-up shirts, in fact, I’ve made my son at least 12-15 over the last several years. This was my fourth Archer Button Up, but the first using view B and with a standard collar instead of a mandarin collar. The last Archer I made was made in the summer of 2016, so coming back to this pattern felt a little like visiting an old friend. I came back to it with fondness as well as wisdom gained from an abundance of sewing over the years. As with anything I’ve made, there are slight imperfections here and there. However, this top is the best I’ve ever sewn a button up and that realization feels pretty darn good.

I was proud of where I was skill-wise 2.5 years ago when I made my last Archer, and now I’m proud of the progress I’ve seen since then. There have been countless times over the last few years when I’ve thrown a project across the room in frustration, muttered a few choice words, and felt like giving up. Finishing things like this Archer makes me thankful that I didn’t. I still have a ridiculous amount of room for improvement in my sewing, but this project reminded me that improvement happens when we just keep trying. Sometimes it happens more slowly than we’d like, but it does happen.

Despite being pleased with my construction here, it didn’t come without mishaps. Due to the yarn-dyed woven nature of this ikat, there isn’t a definitive right or wrong side to the fabric. In a lot of ways, this is great. Unfortunately, I forgot to double check that I was sewing the correct sides of the fabric together when attaching the sleeves. I didn’t notice my mistake until I had french seamed and top stitched both the sleeves and side seams. As a result, my continuous sleeve placket that should’ve been turned to the inside, was now turned to the outside. My late-night sewing brain determined there were only two options: leave the plackets on the outside and call it a design feature or rip out 24 lines of stitching to reattach the sleeves with the actual right side out. In frustration, I decided to call it a night and come back to my sewing in the morning. Nothing clears your head like a good night’s rest and the next morning I realized there was a third option that would fix my problem in just a few minutes with only one small seam to rip out. All I had to do was unpick a 3/8″ long diagonal seam holding the top of the placket together (for reference see this Archer sewalong post). I then flipped the placket to the new wrong side, re-stitched the diagonal seam, and all was well.

Finally, Fitting.

According to the Archer measurement chart, my bust put me in a size 4 with my hip measurement right between an 8 and a 10. After looking at the finished measurement chart, I decided to go for a straight size 4. In retrospect, I likely should’ve graded to an 8 at the hips for a straighter fit. My only real adjustments to the pattern were adding length. I added 1″ in length to bodice and 1/2″ in length to the sleeves. Overall, I’m pleased with the fit of this top. It gives me full range of motion while the semi-fitted nature of it keeps me from looking as if I just rolled out of bed and grabbed my husband’s shirt. 

Thanks for reading! If you need me, I’ll be cozied up in my Archer and a chunky cardigan for the foreseeable future. Be sure to check out Merritt Makes on IG or at their website. I can almost guarantee that you’ll be as tempted as I am to make an entire seasonal wardrobe with their lovely stock. 

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True Bias Salida Skirt

Hello! Today I’m thankful that I can finally show you my test version of the newest True Bias pattern, the Salida Skirt. The hardest part about pattern testing is always waiting to share my finished make. This skirt is no exception. The Salida includes two views. View A is fitted to the knee and View B is fitted through the hips and mid-calf length. During the test, I made View A, but have been dreaming of View B ever since. 

If you’ve read my Justine skirt post, you may remember that I actually don’t own or wear many skirts. When I found out Kelli’s newest pattern would be a skirt, I was initially hesitant. I did, however, decide to take a leap of faith and I’m exceptionally glad I did. The line drawings really sold me on this pattern. It’s hard to photograph and see in black, but the style lines on this pattern are ace. The front and back both include a v-shaped yoke with center and side panels. Coupled  those with slash pockets that are a surprisingly decent size and you’ve got a winning combination. 

Let’s take a quick minute to talk about this fabric. I used a Black Micro Wale Corduroy from Style Maker Fabrics. When I purchased this fabric last January, I planned to use it for a Lander Pant overall hack that never came to fruition. I cut everything out and then lost steam. Thankfully, the paneling of this skirt makes it easy to cut out of scraps and odd shaped pieces of fabric. It feels fitting that although this corduroy didn’t become a pair of Lander Pants, it found a way to become another True Bias pattern. The softness and structure of the corduroy turned out to be just what this skirt needs. In fact, I think Kelli used the same fabric in a different color for one of the pattern cover samples. 

Over the last few years, I’ve grown to love top stitching seams which made  sewing this skirt all the more enjoyable. The panels and yoke seams are all top stitched; a detail I wish showed up better in this version. Despite the decent amount of top stitching, the Salida came together rather quickly. I sewed it up over the course of 2 or 3 evenings without having to pull any crazy late nights. The zipper insertion is the only area where I made a mistake (zip fly is on the wrong side), but even that wasn’t noticeable or really simple to change so I decided to call it a “design choice.”

Let’s move on to discussing fit. My waist and hip measurements put me right in between a size 10 and 12 on the size chart. Based on this, I made the decision to cut a size 12 and adjust from there. After basting the front and back skirt pieces together, I ended up removing about 3/8″ from each of the outer side seams. This is an adjustment likely due to the fact that I was between sizes, not an issue with the pattern sizing. The only other adjustment I made was to add 3″ to the length above where the back slit begins. In retrospect, I probably only needed to add 2″, I was just nervous about the slit beginning right below my bottom (perils of sewing tall). With those simple adjustments, the fit is pretty close to perfect. 

After not wearing them for so long, I’m still getting used to styling a skirt. Luckily I think I found the perfect formula in pairing this corduroy Salida Skirt with a favorite striped Lark Tee, the ever-versatile Hampton Jean Jacket , and a pair of booties. Now I just need to find a good pair of tights and I’ll be set for the cold months ahead. Wearing my skirt styled this way gives me hope that I may once again add skirts to my regular wardrobe rotation. 

Thanks for reading! 

Want to see more of my True Bias Patterns makes? Check out my Lander Pant, Roscoe Blouse, or Yari Jumpsuit posts.

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Kaste Dress from Breaking the Pattern Book

HAPPY MONDAY! Shouting this from the rooftops because this is a make that makes me want to scream “SEWING IS THE FREAKING BEST!” Today I’m part of the D & H Fabrics Blog Tour. You can check out more about this dress and this luxurious Tencel Twill I used on their blog by clicking this link. Below I’m going to discuss the Named Clothing Breaking the Pattern book and the process of fitting this dress. 

The moment the ladies of Named Clothing announced that they were writing a book, I knew it would become part of my sewing library. I’ve made a few Named patterns and am an admirer of their unique, modern style. My pre-order copy of the book arrived this last Tuesday and it does NOT disappoint. It begins with a beginner-friendly bag and ends with a lined coat. There are dresses, skirts, tops, and pants with options to mix and match some patterns for seemingly endless possibilities. The Kaste Dress with butterfly sleeves caught my eye and the rest is history.

Muslin and Initial Fitting

Since I had a limited amount of fabric and not enough time to order more in case of a fitting emergency, I opted to make a muslin first. This is a rarity for me, but you know that I’m really serious about something if I start making a muslin. The last time I made a muslin was for these bold pants I completed in September. Also because of limited time, I decided to use my Pellon 830 Easy Pattern as my muslin “fabric.” Once I traced the pattern pieces onto the Easy Pattern, I simply cut out the required number of pieces. Then, following the pattern instructions, I quickly basted the darts and pattern pieces together. This resulted in a lovely 3D paper-like version of the dress that I could very carefully try on to assess fit. Since fitting the butterfly sleeve portion wasn’t necessary, I didn’t worry about that piece. The photo below shows what my muslin looked like. There are no photos of it on me because it’s a bit sheer. 

Initial fit adjustments:

  • Started with a size 3 at bust graded to a 4 at waist and a 5 at hips
  • Added 1/2″ to front and back bodice length just below bust line.
  • Added 1 1/2″ to length at hips. 

To my delight, The muslin fit was nearly perfect. I knew there would be other necessary adjustments with my final fabric, but the muslin gave me a good idea of where the darts would fit and if any changes would be necessary in that area. With the fit somewhat sorted, I cut out my main fabric. 

Sewing the Dress

Due to time constraints, deadlines, and an unexpectedly hectic week, I had one day to sew up this dress before meeting up with Sara for photographs. For the record, I don’t recommend sewing this dress in a day. I did not get more than a few hours of sleep. I made one mistake where I thought I was smarter than the instructions and inserted the zipper before attaching the facings. Spoiler alert: I am, in fact, not smarter than the instructions. By the I noticed my mistake, I had the dress nearly finished with the exception of the side seams and hem. I did not have time to correct this by ripping out the zipper and going back several steps. Instead, I used the method described in this video to attach the facing to the armholes. It worked, but next time, I’ll just follow the pattern instructions. 

My favorite part of the construction process was sewing the diagonal seams and contour darts. It’s been quite some time since I last sewed a contour dart and I’ve never sewn one that overlaps a seam line. Each step felt like putting together an elaborate puzzle. That end result though? 100% worth it. 

The dress was nearly finished, when I noticed that my serger needles were getting dull and starting to snag the fabric. Unfortunately, it was late at night and the allen wrench required to change the needles was nowhere to be found. I basted the hem in place and called it good until I could buy a new allen wrench . In case you were wondering, That’s on today’s agenda. Headed to the store for the correct sized wrench and properly finishing the last few seams in my dress. Fixing this properly ASAP so I can get lots of wear out of this baby. Just your friendly reminder that sewing isn’t always sunshine and rainbows, but I could probably benefit from a little more organization. 

Final Fit Adjustments

Once the dress was sewn up, I noticed some excess fabric in the mid-hip area and towards the hem. Starting at the upper hip, I slowly tapered the seam allowance to remove excess. At the lower hip, I took in the side seam by 1/4″, by mid-thigh, the side seam was taken in by 1/2″ and, by the hem it was taken in by almost 1″. This achieved a fitted, but unrestrictive skirt. I wanted to avoid the “so tight I can’t sit down” dilemma that sometimes happens when I wear woven bottoms that are too tight. With these final adjustments, my dress was complete.

Final Thoughts

I’m thrilled to have taken the time to sew a little bit of frosting. My sewing as of late has leaned heavily towards basics and getting out of that headspace for a moment was exhilarating. Honestly, I don’t have a lot of places to wear a dress like this, but it felt good and isn’t that sometimes the point of a hobby? Wearing it makes me feel special which is also a fantastic bonus. Feeling especially thankful for the opportunity to participate in the  D & H Fabrics blog tour as it pushed me creatively and brought me this gem of a dress. I’m also feeling inspired by this new book and trying to eke out all the time I can to stitch of a few more of its projects. 

Thanks for reading! Be sure to follow the tour happening all this week on the D & H Fabrics blog.

Want to see more of my Named Clothing makes? Check out my Ronja Dungarees, Gemma Dress, or Gemma Sweater. 

Interested to see other things I’ve made with D & H Fabrics? Read about my rayon Mila Shirt. 

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Itch To Stitch Blog Tour: Mila Shirt

Happy Tuesday all! It’s been a while since I sewed something that wasn’t a cropped top or wide-leg pants. Today I’m mixing it up as part of the Itch to Stitch Blog Tour. This blog tour is one of the largest of which I’ve been a part. There are several talented bloggers and generous sponsors participating. Be sure to read all the way to the bottom for info on winning one of the amazing prizes. Kennis of Itch to Stitch has an impressive pattern library so narrowing down an idea took me a bit of time. Eventually I settled on the idea of sewing a Mila Shirt as I thought it would be a great transitional piece as the weather changes from blazing heat to cooler fall weather.  Bonus: Kennis has agreed to put the pattern on a special sale just for the tour.  Today only snag it for just $9.

One of our wonderful sponsors Tammy of  D+H Fabrics Co was kind enough to send me this beautiful rayon designed by See You at Six fabrics. She had this fabric imported from Belgium in order to carry it in her shop. In my opinion it was 100% worth it because this stuff is glorious. I cut this project out at a sewing night last week and nearly everyone there was “oohing” and “ahhing” over it. It’s that good.

The colors in this fabric will fit into my wardrobe year-round while the print is busy enough to hide any minor construction flaws and food stains. In fact, immediately before these photos were taken, my son tripped and fell on the cement. He was fine, but a little shaken up. Naturally, however, he wiped his tears and snot directly on my shirt. You’d never know it though, because this print hides it all. Moral of the story: if you have children, work with children, or are just a messy eater (also me) you need this print in your wardrobe.

Now that I’ve given you the low down on this fabric; let’s talk about this pattern and the modifications I made to the Mila in order to better fit my style. I have this quirk about long-sleeved woven tops like the Mila. I just don’t really like them unless they’re made in flannel. I find that fabrics like rayon challis don’t actually provide much warmth when layering and I’d rather just have short sleeves so they can be worn year-round. I also like that there won’t be added bulk when I choose to wear a cardigan over this shirt. In order to achieve this, I made an extremely simple modification. The sleeves are cut 2 inches above the sleeve lengthen/shorten line. I sewed a 1″ hem and then rolled it twice for the cuffed look. Simple, right? This change made the Mila shoot to the top of my favorite patterns pretty quickly. 

I did make one other straightforward modification to my Mila. Since the print on this fabric is rather busy, I knew the back pleat detail wouldn’t be noticeable and decided to do away with it. Instead, I gathered the back to fit the yoke and the result is simple and fuss-free. Just the way I like it. 

Let’s talk sizing: One reason I love sewing Itch to Stitch patterns is that the sizing always seems to be spot on. I also love that Kennis provides separate cup sizes. As someone who should probably be making a small bust adjustment on clothing (I never do), I appreciate that the work is basically done for me here. For this top I sewed a size 4 with the A cup. I graded to an 8 at the hips, but probably could’ve gotten away with just grading to a 6. Since I am  5’10” I also added 1″ to the length of this shirt.

On to the construction. About 70% of the sewing process went nice and smooth. The other 30% was a different story.  I had a sick child while sewing this so I was sleep deprived which likely contributed to my mistakes. My missteps while sewing all revolved around the placket. Itch to Stitch patterns always have great detailed instructions which are extremely helpful if you actually read them. My first mistake was simply glancing at the diagram and sewing without reading. I sewed the placket to the right side of the fabric instead of the wrong side and had cut the placket opening before realizing my faux pas. Thanks to fray check and a steady hand with the seam ripper, I was able to remedy my mistake without too much time or effort lost. 

One thing I must admit is that it almost felt weird sewing something tunic length after going through a cropped shirt phase. I almost didn’t know how to style this top, but decided to keep it simple and pair it with these Ginger Jeans. Once cooler weather hits I can see this top easily paired with leggings and a cozy cardigan or Wiksten Kimono. In spring and summer, it would be equally lovely tucked into a skirt. I’m thinking a black Lawley Skirt? Overall, I’m giddy about this make. I think it will make a great transition piece and I’m obsessed with this fabric. Now my question is how much of this fabric is too much? I just might need more of it. 

Thanks for reading all about my Mila. Are you ready for some more Itch to Stitch inspiration? Read below and follow the links to check out all of this week’s bloggers. 

September 17th 
September 18th 
September 19th 
September 20th 
September 21st 
 

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